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I was resigned to external ND's for a long time as I just didn't have any choice at my budget, so I got used to it. Then I bought a camcorder as a B cam and now it reminds how convenient internal ND's are every time I shoot 😄

Gotta start making horror films @120fps.

Really? What about that then? Let's spill your beans... what stops you to add anything value to the topic instead, mmm?! ; ) I simply hate when lazy people who have just added zero to any discussion come to simply criticize whoever (it's meaningless to be me BTW, trust me, but that gives me more right to address to the critical voice these words now) with none grounds to their claim. Pity you were not my student at University or Polytechnic or you'd have to repeat the academic year... Now you know what I have to say to you for the subject matter, I invite you to drop your trousers and let us know what polls you are capable to offer! Phew : X

Fair. On narrative sets, swapping front filters isn't much more trouble than swapping rear filters imo. Most (all?) adapter-based options either have artifact-prone polarization-based ND adjustments, or require the physical filter to be swapped to change levels. So I don't think that gives me much benefit. I've lived without internal NDs for so long that it's not a huge deal to me. But it would be convenient to have them. On the other hand, every other project, I have bad rolling shutter artifacts in 1-2 shots...so not particularly common, but common enough that the Z6III's sensor looks pretty good to me right now.

I did another test. In case it's useful to anyone I'll document my process. (And I'm still learning it so there might be a better way.) I shot with an iPhone mounted on the camera rig and started SensorLogger app a bit before rolling. I tested it with all the shutter angles narrower than 180º. There's a balance between avoiding weird motion artifacts (blurring) and movements looking to jittery. I found for my taste the best to be either 120º or 90º. I'll have to play around more to decide what to use. In Gyroflow, I brought in a video clip, then set the Lens Profile (there are crowd sourced presets or you can make your own or use one that's close to your lens and sensor size). Then open the motion data (the gyroscope file from SensorLogger). You then click somewhere on the timeline and choose Guess IMU orientation here. This analyzes the data and figures out which value is X, which is Y and which is Z. (As every device is different.) For my iPhone 8 and SensorLogger it's Zxy. (Once you know that you can just enter that each time into the IMU Orientation field and you don't have to have it guess again.) There's a field (and check box) called Rough gyro offset. Check that and enter how many seconds you figure was between starting the app and rolling the camera. Then you click AutoSync. It works away and stabilizes and lines up the stabilization with the footage. There are a few different ways to view it. Full cropped frame, or zoomed out with a rectangle and you can see your footage moving behind that. There will be vertical red bars in the timeline that indicate where the black outside enters the frame. You can adjust the FOV (field of view) and Smoothness to not have any red bars. For me shooting in 2K and finishing in 1080, I set the FOV to 0.94 which means it won't scale up larger than pixel to pixel. I then adjust Smoothness so I don't get any red bars. I also have it set to No Zooming. This is for a project where I want to just smooth the camera motion a bit but leave the camera motion in. Then export to ProResHQ and edit those new clips. (This is using the stand alone app. If I end up using this a lot I'll check out the Final Cut plug in.) I'm pleased with the results so far. Hope this helps somebody.

I think connoisseur-aficionado is the term you are looking for 😜

Okay, so I did a test. Using a Digital Bolex and shoulder mount rig, three lenses, 5.5mm, 10mm and a 17mm. I mounted an iPhone with a holder, had it facing up with the app SensorLogger to record gyroscope data. I started the app a few seconds before rolling the camera. The Gyroflow software seems to figure out how to auto sync them very well somehow. (I didn't try the plug ins for Resolve or Final Cut.) It took awhile to understand how it works but I think I got it now. This video helped a lot. NURK FPV - The Definitive Gyroflow Tutorial https://youtu.be/QAds3x8UU1w The results are very good. I'm impressed. I shot in 2K so finishing in HD would mean potentially not losing any resolution. I'm mostly interested in just smoothing things out a tiny bit so this should be good. I like this better than operating a gimbal. I need to play around more with it though. There are some points with smearing that comes from a 180º shutter. I'll do another test sometime with a narrower shutter angle/shorter shutter speed and see what that looks like. If this becomes a normal part of my workflow I might want something simpler, like a GoPro or something. (It is one more thing to do when shooting.)

I tried using just pure gyro logging on my iPhone mounted to my Z6, but easily got lost trying to find matching gyro files, especially if I forgot to log for a take or whatnot which would throw off my sequential order of gyro clips. Having a visual reference is way better. Of course, in a perfect world we would get internal gyro like on new Sony bodies, blackmagic cams and reds, but this is a solid workaround. I also have played with both After Effect’s Pixel Motion Blur and Davinci Resolve Studio’s motion blur. Both are good; AE might be a bit more accurate, Davinci’s faster, but both work well. I will say for very fast moving stuff though it’s very hit or miss. And I am starting to realize the tediousness of the post-production workflow.

Yep. I find the most efficient workflow for those who need external gyro loggers is to use either a phone with the GyroCam app or an action camera. This is because they record video as well as the gyro data. Then when you come across a clip from your mirrorless camera you want to stabilize, just find the corresponding video clip where the same action is occurring; then you just sync up the gyro.

I've heard of it before but never tried it. Now that I'm putting together a shoulder rig, I should experiment with it. Even if I only use it a bit now and then it might help. I do want to maintain the shoulder held look and don't want the gimbal look.

The poll needs an option for "seems to work well, but it is annoying to have the extra processing step" and "I hope they'll just add it to Resolve (if they didn't already and I missed it)"

thanks a lot for the info. will research on this. I have some manual focus lenses over 100 mm, especially from medium format. so it will be great to have good use for them. now I only use them for taking photos. it will be great for video shooting. some lenses are very interesting, like bronica 110-220 vivita series 1 70-210 etc. will research and try this gyro stabilization approach.

I need to actually film an example that I post online, but gyroflow is quite impressive at least if you film wide. Easy to get a steadicam look or a gimbal look, if you are going for more of a steadicam/stable handheld look you don’t have to crop in much. Only annoyance is with my Nikon Z6 there is no internal gyro recording so I have to use an external device (my phone). Cameras like the Sony fx30 look so tempting because they record internal gyro; seems like such an easy workflow.