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Shot with the BMMCC in Myeongdong for 2.5 hours in the (light) rain today. It's a trooper. Images barely graded as usual. and a POV pic of the setup. I might have gone a touch dark on the grade, but these were just taken from checking dailies to catch any tech or usage issues. I think I'm getting the hang of this.

There will always be buyers for a Nikon D750? Why is selling it an issue?? D800 can be found for similar prices (or even cheaper??? Seriously!) to the D750, so that's another one to consider. If you're also into landscape or architectural photography. Or similar slow paced but high resolution photography. Otherwise I'd prefer the feature set of the D750. Also the Nikon D600 is worth a look, which is even cheaper. (yet still has a great sensor itself: https://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Nikon-D750-versus-Nikon-D600___975_834 ) But when the D750 itself is only a hundred (maybe two hundred) bucks more, I'm not sure it's worth saving the pennies over.

I also think it would be hard to beat the D750 for anything photography at $600 budget. The used market is absolutely flooded with that body with all the wedding/wannabe wedding photographers moving to mirrorless. Granted, I'm not 100% sure you'll be able to sell it; so, the "cost" comes with a heavy caveat.

What is truly most important to you? Filmmaking? I'm guessing that matters to you?? You said night photography, but you're posting in EOSHD? As if video performance is irrelevant to you (or of minor importance), but if night photography is your number 1 priority, then go for a secondhand Nikon D750? And put the rest into nice AF-D / G lenses. (also, dpreview forums or similar might be a better post for this than here?) D750 can still do quite nice video too, would be a big improvement over your 7D: https://www.eoshd.com/review/nikon-d750-review-initial-thoughts-real-world-footage-ladies-gentleman-contender/ But if video is the #1 priority for you, then I probably would look elsewhere. But with your very tight budget it's tricky to know what to do. Maybe you could get lucky and find an a7Smk2 within your budget? As an a7Smk1 without an external recorder doesn't seem like it's truly worth it vs a solid Nikon D750. Fujifilm X-H1 or X-T3 would also likely be outside your budget. Am afraid a Nikon Z6 mk1 would also be outside your budget. Panasonic GH5S perhaps?? (the GH5S version, not the GH5. Although even the GH5mk2 itself manages a better low light ISO score on dxomark than the Canon 7D: https://cdn.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Canon-EOS-7D-versus-Panasonic-Lumix-DC-GH5-II___619_1366 )

Laowa 7.5mm for even wider if you have your camera has a mft mount, of course.

This is the lens I'd recommend; it's been my workhorse since about 2016 (I don't have the BMCC but use it on the original BMPCC and Micro Cinema cameras). There's some very nice footage shot with it on the OG BMCC here:

I did another test. In case it's useful to anyone I'll document my process. (And I'm still learning it so there might be a better way.) I shot with an iPhone mounted on the camera rig and started SensorLogger app a bit before rolling. I tested it with all the shutter angles narrower than 180º. There's a balance between avoiding weird motion artifacts (blurring) and movements looking to jittery. I found for my taste the best to be either 120º or 90º. I'll have to play around more to decide what to use. In Gyroflow, I brought in a video clip, then set the Lens Profile (there are crowd sourced presets or you can make your own or use one that's close to your lens and sensor size). Then open the motion data (the gyroscope file from SensorLogger). You then click somewhere on the timeline and choose Guess IMU orientation here. This analyzes the data and figures out which value is X, which is Y and which is Z. (As every device is different.) For my iPhone 8 and SensorLogger it's Zxy. (Once you know that you can just enter that each time into the IMU Orientation field and you don't have to have it guess again.) There's a field (and check box) called Rough gyro offset. Check that and enter how many seconds you figure was between starting the app and rolling the camera. Then you click AutoSync. It works away and stabilizes and lines up the stabilization with the footage. There are a few different ways to view it. Full cropped frame, or zoomed out with a rectangle and you can see your footage moving behind that. There will be vertical red bars in the timeline that indicate where the black outside enters the frame. You can adjust the FOV (field of view) and Smoothness to not have any red bars. For me shooting in 2K and finishing in 1080, I set the FOV to 0.94 which means it won't scale up larger than pixel to pixel. I then adjust Smoothness so I don't get any red bars. I also have it set to No Zooming. This is for a project where I want to just smooth the camera motion a bit but leave the camera motion in. Then export to ProResHQ and edit those new clips. (This is using the stand alone app. If I end up using this a lot I'll check out the Final Cut plug in.) I'm pleased with the results so far. Hope this helps somebody.

Went to tea cafe / tea museum. Very formal in a handmade sort of traditional way. Barely graded stills:

Arrived in Seoul and recovering from flights etc. A storm rolled in and I grabbed some shots with the BMMCC. I'm just getting used to the low-light limits so these are test shots as much as anything. I've done almost no grading to these at all, but they look like movie frames, I'm really impressed.

for a scene to look really good, actually the lighting needs to be controlled to be within 10 stops. otherwise, the results will be like in this video, even the camera is the legendary 15-stop usable Alexa 35.