Andrew Reid

​Film didn't come off to well vs the C500 in this shot though did it... http://www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/2014/02/canon-c500-vs-film-camera-test/

Fuzzy, please don't derail the post. If a filmmaker needs advice on hardware on a forum he's entitled to it. All the great acting and stories count for naught if the wrong gear is chosen and it can't get the shot. Also read Shane Hurlbut's opinion on why tests are important http://www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/2012/09/the-importance-of-camera-tests/ One day someone is going to derail someone else's internet research with the obvious "skills before frills, content is king" shit, and they are going to go off and make a mistake that ruins a shoot because of some gear related accident. So stop it.

I preferred the cat video.

Is anyone else having this profile pic problem?

​It's the other way round on the clipping. Just look at the images I've put up from the original files. Don't try to grade the web compressed JPEGs!

That last one is closest to the actual colour of the scene, just needs desaturating a touch. Yes, S-LOG is asking for a grade. Haha. That's what it's for. Let's get back on topic (dynamic range) now please.

​I'm on the new firmware.

​It must be Framing Mode being "on". Can't be anything else. It's what I turned off when I had the issue, had me mystified for a bit as well. Also I just got this message on Vimeo from another NX1 user. He confirms the problem was caused by Framing Mode as well. --- I'm experiencing an issue with my Samsung NX1 and I was wondering, if you've ever encountered that yourself. Been on the field filming today and I've noticed a strange pumping, pulsating, brightness changing (or whatever you might call it) in the picture. It happens with no change in the framing or lighting, but I've also noticed some kind of Auto ISO or Exposure Compensation when shifting the camera into the sun. UPDATE: I think I've just found the culprit. There's the Framing Mode under shooting options which is supposed to adjust the display exposure (and just that of the camera OLED display. It seems to be actually adjusting the recording. Neat little bug. Have to confirm this tomorrow outside, but I'm pretty sure this is it. You can probably easily reproduce this. Just activate Frame Guide, use spot metering and then move the framing into a bright light source.

Most likely Twitter / FB related bug yeah.

In that case I'll be very careful about mentioning the Falklands

​It's 8bit. More to come from NX1 + Shogun.

​They are wrong.

Better have another go at correcting then The crayons should look like they are in the shot below (still shot with D750 in raw). Also check the warm wooden box colour and the pinkish book cover.

I turn it off because essentially it's a crude version of what you can do in post. I'll try some in post and try to match them, in terms of both the LOG output and final graded image. A7S offers a lot of bang for buck. Need that internal 4K though!

Have you considered the Panasonic LX100? Seems a good fit. The stills are better on the A7 though. You will struggle to get a full frame camera in your budget that shoots great video. Nikon D750 is too much, A7S is too much. APS-C then Nikon D5300 would be a good choice. Great stills and good 1080p. You can put a loupe on it and you have your EVF shooting style back. You might be able to stretch to a used GH4 if you find a bargain body but it won't leave much over for the requisite lenses it needs to make it look good.

​Yes unfortunately. Not severe but I keep seeing it.

Here's a quick detail test. 1:1 crops first... 1D C (Canon LOG) 4K 1D C (Canon LOG) 4K with digital sharpening on (in post) Sony A7S (SLOG 2) 4K to Shogun And the full 4K frames for your downloading... click to enlarge then drag to desktop... 1D C (Canon LOG) A7S (S-LOG 2) Both straight out of the camera and ungraded. You can see where the Sony's SLOG get's it yellow tint from that you have to fix in post very carefully to get colour working right. If you have an A7S and Shogun it remains an amazing image for the price. It's just that I think the 1D C if it drops to the same price or even a bit more it's a no brainer, it's more cinematic and easier to work with.

​The 4K from the 1D C with sharpness on 0 in Canon LOG is softer than the A7S S-LOG on default settings but the detail is there and it's more solid and more organic in the rendering. The A7S is sharp but it looks more video-ish and has moire & aliasing. Quite surprising considering how clean the internal 1080p was. 1D C clearly has a stronger anti-aliasing filter. That's a good thing. The detail is still there and you can bring it out with sharpening but sharpening 4K is bloody pointless! It only makes your full frame less cinematic when projected, the sharpness kinda crawls around and looks more digital, more 'GH2'. The extra detail through sharpening is only really visible at 1:1. It's a bit like the difference between the Epic and GH4. Yes one is sharper but is it really more detailed? More cinematic? No.

1D C A7S Same exposure

How much is a used 5D Mark II where you live? With Magic Lantern raw that gives the best image for the price and as a stills camera it does the basics right like AF. No EVF though.

​What reviews? For stills or video?

Would be interesting to see if this is a problem only with the Samsung lenses. Better to get a Nikon adapter and use AI stuff.

If it does that during an important shot, you can't just take the battery out and say "it's fine"

Next test. This one is a bit clearer I think. Click to enlarge them. The shot contains a GH4 to represents the blacks / lows and out of the window at the top I've cropped out the tree line / sky for the highs. The shot of the GH4 on the 1D C shot is usable, the A7S isn't, or at least needs cleaning up. There's also moire and aliasing on the lens rings. You get these noisy blacks at ISO 3200 at the bottom of the S-LOG file. What I do is to of course apply a curve to the file to get contrast back, crush the noisy blacks away, get colour looking right and tonality spot on. I have always crushed these parts of the image away by 1-2 stops because that's what you're supposed to do with LOG. Those blacks look awful if you keep them as-is. The blacks are so cinematic and milky clean on the 1D C I can keep them if I want to. If you clean up the noise in the A7S blacks with noise reduction software, the image overall will still look bad. So they need to go. Nobody can say looking at the shot above that the A7S looks better than the 1D C. I am not bringing bias into it, it's science pure and simple. The tree line out of the window represents the highlights. Here the A7S is doing a hard clip to white above the tree branches and the 1D C goes beyond the trees to maintain some of the bright clouds. Well, as bright as the sky gets in January in England anyway!! Subtle difference. To find out how many stops DR each give I need a chart and I am not a chart tester. I am certain the 1D C is giving me more usable dynamic range though.

​Kindly gaze at my sample images, which are graded from the original files. Kind of matters that! Now look at the size of the highlight. How much of it is white on the top shot and how much on the bottom? The area which is burnt to white is larger on the A7S. Now look at the shadows. Pretty similar but the A7S has more noise in them, therefore they require a pull down to hide the noise. Noise reduction will just make them look muddy and kill the detail. It's not about that purple splat of paint, it is not a highlight and it isn't burnt in either! Need to do a proper test to make it clearer to people without eyes.