nahua

ISO is the sensitivity of the sensor. Higher ISOs mean more noise in the image. I would rate ISO 1600 and higher as High ISO. Noise Reduction will reduce the noise in-camera. However, the camera will lose detail or "smear" the image if Noise Reduction is too high. At -4 you will get very good detail, but increased noise. If you intend to shoot at High ISO, I would suggest getting Noise Reduction software plug-in like Neat Video which reduces the noise in the image. I know you're shooting A (Aperture priority) and probably ISO at A (auto). It should be fine, just be prepared for each clip looking different because your ISO, white balance (WB) and shutter speed will be all over the place. In an ideal world you will want to have everything on manual and be consistent with all these settings. But I know you do traveling, and it's so hard to get the right settings. The GH3 is pretty good on Auto, and your previous video was really good considering. AVCHD will be fine at 24P 24Mbps. Depends on your delivery, but if you like that image you should be fine. I think you should try and shoot at a higher frame rate like 60P because you can always do slow motion effects later in post. It also gives you smoother looking footage, and you can always convert 60P to 24P in post. Either AVCHD or 50Mbits MOV, both 24P or 60P take about the same amount of space on your SD card. I hope this helps. Can't wait to see your next short film!

A company that has such a legacy as Leica probably looked at the wrong company to follow: Canon.  LaForet made the video that changed the landscape forever, but does lightning strike twice?  What is it with companies letting still photographers test out video?  And then all they do is bitch about it?  I'm disappointed with this, and I think Leica should know better with all the failures out there.  We are over 4 years from the 5dmkII and they can't overcome the problems?  Moire, Aliasing, poor codec?  And of course they'll charge some astronomical price for this.  I wonder how long Leica can convince their customers to continue to support their inflated pricing for cameras that really aren't up to par with Nikons, Canons, etc.

Check out my video test from over 2 years ago:   http://youtu.be/OT3UoTtb2UY

I do love the look of this anamorphic.  Just be aware of your focus.  Might not seem like much on the guitar, but it's very distracting for her.  Otherwise very good composition and lighting.

This is just my experience, but I shot a white wall with different ISO settings to get the noise characteristics.  So then I made a profile for the ISOs I use most - 640, 1250, 2500, 5000.  I even made one for anamorphics too.  Now I just base it on the ISO I shot the footage.  Quick and dirty and doesn't always work, but I get great results 90% of the time. 

I would say that camera shake from handheld footage is OK. But to try and "fix" it with After Effects, I don't know. I just wish he would show the footage without the "wobble" and I think it would be a lot better.

@charlie_orozco: Yes Shian is correct. 50mbits is better but only in 60P mode. 24P 50mbits mode looks the same as the 24P 72mbit All-I mode. And "better" meaning more pleasing noise grain, and for me easier to make a noise profile and remove the noise. I have very good results up until ISO 3200. Above that and 72mbit is better.

  Yes but it depends on the lens.  You may get "jumps" or "skipping" in the image when doing pans, usually at the end of movement.  It's like when you stop, the IS is still working and overcompensates resulting in a "jump" in the image.  Turn it off and you will get smooth stops.  Just to remember to turn it back on for handheld.

@AaronChicago The GH2 also did this with the Auto brightness.  I really hate it, and it really screwed my exposure before I figured it out.  Although the color shift is annoying, at least the colors are spot-on.  I can actually shoot without an external monitor.  Can't say the same about the GH2's crappy LCD with it's wonky colors.

You have a great eye!  Wonder if you used your GH2 w/ 25mm Leica, get some wide open low light shots w/ AF.  I know the NEX is super small so that helps to put in your pocket.

This is great!  I'm going to try it out!  Thanks!!!

Yes mine has it too.  I thought there was something really wrong until I looked at it straight on.  Distracting and a pain in the ass, but it's workable.  At least the color is accurate, rather than the GH2 being completely wrong.

  You do know that Japan still isn't all HD yet?  They still have SD broadcast, and HD is really 720P and not 1080P.  Only a few premium channels or NHK governement channels are 1080P.  So yeah maybe NHK will go 4K, but the reality is that even Japan isn't going to be all 4K.

Watched Behiri's video and I hate to be cynical.  There are some real nice skin tones, and there is great detail.  But is it so much different from the GH2/3 or C300?  And then the banding...Canon why 8-bit?  If this was 10 or 12-bit it would have been a real killer cam.  It took so much time for them to release this and it just feels like it's 2 years behind.  Just watch, NAB will have some surprises and Canon will be behind AGAIN.  Such a missed opportunity.

The above video was a quick test.  Here is a more comprehensive test:   http://youtu.be/e2IXAZKy9uk

@BurnetRhoades - I assume you're talking about that "Gravitate" guy.  Another is "Overcranked".  Lots to talk but little to say.  I agree 100% with you and I'm glad you brought this up.  I say ignore the trolls and just move on.  I hope you and all the regular contributors keep posting with great info - projects or tests.  I've learned so much from this forum.  I just don't want to see this place turn into another "5D" or "DPR" ghetto.  Keep it real!

@Andrew - I like the 50mbit 60P because the noise is easier to remove with Neat Video. For some reason the 72mbit isn't consistent and is very hard to make a reliable noise profile. And I haven't seen a real quality boost for the 72mbit. I'm really amazed at the 50mbit 60P codec, it really works well. The only downside is I can't use EX TELE mode, I have to go back to 72mbit. I'm trying to get more long glass since we all want to achieve a look optically. And the noise in EX TELE mode is really bad past ISO 800.

Richg101 is right.  There are cheap ones and even the Steadicam Smoothee is a great value.  Check out cheesycam.com:   http://cheesycam.com/steadicam-smoothee-modified-test/   http://cheesycam.com/gh2-on-baby-merlin-modified-steadicam-smoothee/   http://cheesycam.com/steadicam-smoothee-modified-baby-merlin/   I've done these mods and it cost less than $200.  There are many others that are way cheaper, just check on ebay.  Perfect for small cams like the GH2 or RX100.  And much easier to stabilize than the regular steadicams.  This plus the stabilizer plug-ins will give you perfect smooth footage.  Good luck!

Thank God!  I hope he really is gone.  Good riddance! 

Here is my test I did today.  There are a few notes to be aware of:   1) There is moire evident when set at 0 (roof of the pavilion).  At -5 there is none, although the compression of youtube introduces moire. 2) Excessive sharpening in post is akin to sharpening in-camera by re-introducing moire.  Not only that but it also exacerbates banding as well.  The last shot of the sunset, you can see a sort of "pulsing" wave above the sun.  This is not present in either the 0 or -5 setting, although you can see some banding in the 0 setting. 3) There is a lot of noise at -5, but there's more detail too.  Proper noise reduction will help. 4) Contrast isn't easy to fix.  I made a bunch of other shots, however I wasn't able to match them.   Never forget we're dealing with an 8 bit codec.  You can grade the footage, but only so far.  And trying to fix things in post could result in worse problems.  The banding was especially surprising, and it looks worse in the ProRes version.  I think it best to find the right compromise for the type of shooting you do.  And you have to get your exposure and contrast as close to final version as possible.  The GH3 is better than the GH2, and you have some room to adjust, but it still isn't a whole lot.   http://youtu.be/qxxFe_y-2y4

Here is my test I did today. There are a few notes to be aware of: 1) There is moire evident when set at 0 (roof of the pavilion). At -5 there is none, although the compression of youtube introduces moire. 2) Excessive sharpening in post is akin to sharpening in-camera by re-introducing moire. Not only that but it also exacerbates banding as well. The last shot of the sunset, you can see a sort of "pulsing" wave above the sun. This is not present in either the 0 or -5 setting, although you can see some banding in the 0 setting. 3) There is a lot of noise at -5, but there's more detail too. Proper noise reduction will help. 4) Contrast isn't easy to fix. I made a bunch of other shots, however I wasn't able to match them. Never forget we're dealing with an 8 bit codec. You can grade the footage, but only so far. And trying to fix things in post could result in worse problems. The banding was especially surprising, and it looks worse in the ProRes version. I think it best to find the right compromise for the type of shooting you do. And you have to get your exposure and contrast as close to final version as possible. The GH3 is better than the GH2, and you have some room to adjust, but it still isn't a whole lot. http://youtu.be/qxxFe_y-2y4

I agree 100% with XXX here. The point is that Blanche is traveling and wants the best compromise - least amount of disk space used, good quality and least amount of post work. Let's face it, we all want to shoot more and edit less. Think about the amount of clips in the short she created. Must be 30 at least? Who wants to color correct EVERY clip? This isn't for Cannes (well maybe in the future :-) ) so I think less editing is more. 1) AVCHD - the quality is outstanding. You would be hard pressed to tell the difference between 50mbit/72mbit/AVCHD 24mbit. The main issue is transcoding (even FCPX does it in the background). There is a difference between file sizes for 50P vs 24P/30P. I say use 30P since your delivery is the web via Vimeo. Use 60P when you want to do slow motion effects. 2) The Profiles and settings are really a matter of taste. Again how much post work do you want to do? Do you want to really adjust 30+ individual clips and spend days to fix each and every one of them? Again, I suggest you try it out. What I've said is my settings only, and it's for my workflow. In the end try just a few, and if you like the results then just go for it. Again I hope this helps. I didn't want to get too technical because this can get in the way of shooting. Go out and do what you do best!

This is the rumor from CanonWatch:   http://www.canonwatch.com/rumor-metabones-working-on-a-speed-booster-for-canon-fd-mount-lenses/   This is really good since I have a bunch of Canon FD lenses!

@ gravitatemediagroup I'm not here to start a pissing war. Blanche doesn't want to do a lot of post, so saturation doesn't have to be down all the way. Did you even see her video? Overall she doesn't need to do too much. I think saturation isn't the question or how "flat" she should go. She doesn't need to dial everything down to -5. Just a subtle change is all that's needed.

There's nothing really wrong with the footage you shot. And the standard settings are just fine. If you don't want to mess too much with the profiles I would suggest just a minor tweak in the settings. Maybe Contrast -1/-2, Sharpness -2/-3, Saturation 0, Noise Reduction -2/-3. I think Portrait or Smooth might be too flat for your shooting. Keep either with Standard or Vivid. I actually use Vivid, I think it has the most range in the mid-tones, and then reducing saturation helps to flatten it out a bit. But if you're too flat, then there might not be enough color information at all. If I have time I'll try and do some settings with the different profiles, with a before/after post processing sample.