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Everything posted by nahua
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[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkY7o3uDgVc"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkY7o3uDgVc[/url]
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All-I mode is the highest bit-rate and thus least amount of recording time. AVCHD uses the most efficient codec and has the most recording time. Here's what I have: 64GB MOV 1080P60P, 1080P30P, 1080P24P - 2hr49min MOV All-I 1080P30P, 1080P24P, 720P60P - 1hr57min AVCHD 1080P60P - 5hr2min AVCHD 1080P60i - 8hr17min AVCHD 1080P30P, 1080P24P - 5hr52min 32GB MOV 1080P60P, 1080P30P, 1080P24P - 1hr24min MOV All-I 1080P30P, 1080P24P, 720P60P - 58min AVCHD 1080P60P - 2hr30min AVCHD 1080P60i - 4hr7min AVCHD 1080P30P, 1080P24P - 2hr55min You should download the manual, it has more numbers and information. [url="http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/DMCGH3.PDF"]http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/DMCGH3.PDF[/url] [url="http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/DMCGH3_ADV.PDF"]http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/DMCGH3_ADV.PDF[/url]
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error message: "this motion picture not playable" HELP!
nahua replied to marta_liddle's topic in Cameras
This has nothing to do with your model of GH2 or batteries or charging. This is all about the hack you're using. I never was able to get stable performance with any of the 42/44mbit hacks. Only the high bitrates were stable, but they are really short on record time. If you want reliability and long record times, just go back to the original 1.1 firmware. You'll get 3 hours on your 32GB cards. And you probably won't see a big difference in picture quality. Yes you will lose the ability to record at high ISOs, but then you should focus on fast lenses. If you must use a hack, then there's tons of information on personal-view.com, Vitaly's website. Just look for some of Nick Driftwood's hacks, they are all very good. But again, you will lose record time and your file sizes go up tremendously. -
Good question, I have the same thing too. Don't know I hope to find out soon.
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They're $79.95 from B&H. In stock! The battery code is Panasonic DMW-BLF19. [url="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=panasonic++DMW-BLF19&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search="]http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=panasonic++DMW-BLF19&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=[/url] Mine are coming in Monday. I've also read from other GH3 users that the battery lasts 4 hours, takes 3 hours to charge. I'll find out more with more of my tests this weekend.
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The batteries never lasted over an hour. At 45min mark I'm always at 1 bar, flashing after another 5 min. I used the GH2 with the GH3 last night, had to change the battery mid-way. It's why I have 4 batteries for each of my GH2's. So far so good for the GH3!!
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I think Andy Lee answered your question. The best way is to check ebay for adapters. Just put in "micro 4/3 adapter" and whatever lens maker you want (ex Canon, Nikon, etc). It doesn't have to be a mega-expensive adapter like Novoflex. The only advantage to Novoflex is that the quality is amazing, with precision machining. Also, it has a step-less aperture ring for smooth aperture control. However, since I don't really use that it's not worth that much more over the cheaper Chinese made adapters. And "much more" like $35 vs $300 more. Andrew is talking about using old 35mm manual focus lenses because they do have flaws, they do have imperfections. This is the "character" of the lens. Look up his old posts about old Olympus Pen-F, Leica-R, and other lenses. If you compare them to new lenses, they have that something that makes it look "filmic". I think new lenses are very clinical, with their advanced AF motors and multi-coated lenses. But it does depend on how you shoot. When I shoot events, AF is important and thus I use new lenses. If I'm shooting a project or music video, then I use the old manual lenses. It all depends on how you shoot and what you're shooting. I hope this helps.
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I just filmed my friend's daughter's recital. Hour and a half straight and still 3 bars. GH2 I would be well into the 2nd battery. Nice that the new battery is almost the same size as the 5d's battery. I have two pre-ordered with B&H anyway, should be here by Monday.
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@ pietz Best hack for high bitrate is the Flow Motion 2.02. Very stable with no problems so far. But understand you need fast SD cards preferably 64GB. And lots of storage too. Understand that although you can get the best image, it is at a cost. And you can worry about noise, but it will always be there. If you had less noise, then you'll have less detail too. I believe QuickHitRecord is correct in his findings. Try the hack and then follow his advice. But if you have record errors, it will more than likely be your SD card. So you get the best detail, best picture and best bitrate with the hack, but you also need to have the best SD cards too.
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@ Germy1979 Yes I just watched it. Natural is one of the seven. It's hard to understand the settings and how they affect the profiles without actually having the camera in hand. The GH3's menu setup is the same as the GH2, so each of the settings has Contrast, Sharpness, Saturation and Noise Reduction. But each of those can be adjusted + or - up to 5, so that's +5 or -5. Unlike the GH2 which had little effect, the GH3 has a substantial difference. You can see huge changes, and it can drastically change any of the profiles. I think Natural and Portrait are flat, but they can be even more flat if you make everything -5. Finding the right balance is very hard, and you can see how Driftwood tried all sorts of settings. You can easily get lost if you're not keeping track. I haven't had enough time to test it out, but so far grading has a little more latitude. Not a whole lot, but a little more than the GH2. I think people should wait until Driftwood, Andrew and others have done more tests in order to find the right balance of settings. There's a lot of adjustment available. One thing that I think is a waste of time is the Creative Modes, since they are all Full Auto only. Those special effects are better done in post anyway.
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Dr Brinkley, I use a few FD lenses, 50mm 1.2L, 85m 1.2L. Both are really very nice. Check ebay, there are many adapters available for any mount, including Pentax K. If you don't want to go the cheap route, then you could check out Novoflex for their excellent adapters. They are built solid, but cost upwards of $300 (I own a few). Any old 35mm camera lens will work on the GH3, and will produce outstanding results. Just remember to multiply the focal length x2 - 50mm = 100mm. I have used Canon, Nikon, Leica - all produce excellent results. I feel that even though Panasonic and Olympus produce excellent lenses, they are very clinical and maybe too sharp. I believe Andrew is correct in this regard. Lenses with more character produce better results, or maybe more "filmic" results.
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@Matt: I have a retail GH3 in my hand. So does Andrew. I tried the creative modes, and there is NO manual control. If you watch the video, the only way he can control exposure is using exposure compensation, either + or - values. Any creative modes are in full auto mode. There is NO menu option to shoot in manual. Only modes that work in movie mode, full manual, is the 7 picture modes. None of the creative modes or styles work, and they are actually for photos, even though some work in movie mode. I hope this clears this up.
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Patrick, the Z-96 is cheap for the light it produces. I bought some Sony F knockoffs ($3 on amazon, crazy) and they last almost 2 hours full power. Yes they get hot, but they do throw a lot of light. Lots of reviews on youtube, or you can check an old review on cheesycam.com. Small, very portable, and can use 5 AA batteries in a pinch. Oh yeah it has a dimmer, frosted filter and amber 3200K filter. All works well. Yes it might break, yeah there's no warranty, but at this price I'm just going to use and abuse them. I can always order more.
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If you're looking for run-n-gun cheapy solution, look up the Z-96 LED light. Either on fleabay or amazon, should be about $80. Produces great light, can use AA or Sony F batteries for extended run times. Bright, mounts on the hotshoe, and if you buy multiple you can link them together (although not too stable).
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Problem with the creative modes is that movies are on all auto - no manual control over aperture, shutter or ISO. Interesting, but I think all of us would rather grade the images in post than to use these built-in modes.
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If you want a filmic look but still want autofocus (AF) then pick the Panasonic Leica 25mm F1.4 or 45mm F2.8. Awesome lenses, AF is fast and you can shoot in very low light and have smooth out of focus backgrounds. Other nice lenses are the Olympus 12mm and 75mm, both have AF. Since you are used to a camcorder, AF is a plus. You get nice images out of the Voiglander, SLR Magic or other manual lenses, but manual focus can be a pain if you're on the go. Another all rounder is the Panasonic 12-35mm X or 35-100mm X zoom lenses. Both are good in low light and have superior AF.
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I know the DP4 has HDMI in and out, but I'm not sure if the stretch signal would go out. So you can do the anamorphic stretch with the SmallHD monitor, but the signal out might still be straight from the camera. Sorry I can't really test that out for you. If anything you can ask SmallHD, I figure their customer service could help out.
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At least with the hack you can shoot ISO 2500 or 5000. I almost always shoot those levels with my 14-140mm indoors, mostly at F5.6. Then I use fast color corrector in CS5.5 and neat video. Works a charm, footage will be grainy but usuable. I just used the Flowmotion 2.0.2 and it works very nicely. High bitrate, and I always shoot 1080P 24P, works well. It isn't perfect by any means, and you should use a fast zoom if possible. But the only ones available with AF is Panasonic's 12-35 F2.8, 35-100 F2.8 or Olympus's 12-35 F2, 35-100 F2 (which are both in the $3K range!!). All of these zooms are fantastic. But if you can't afford it, get a cheap nifty fifty (Nikon or Canon 50mm F1.8) on ebay. One thing to remember is to not underexpose for high ISOs. Yes the noise is bad, but you can't recover well in post. If anything, exposing correctly is even more important for high ISOs. I know you do run-n-gun, but that's the trade-off with any DSLR. Otherwise you might as well get a Canon C300 which are awesome for run-n-gun and documentaries in low-light.
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I have to say that the images are pretty impressive. And just like the FS100 and FS700, not much difference between AVCHD and ProRes. But I guess that's due to the hardware output. I admit I could see very little difference. But the sad fact remains that it is 8-bit output. Such great images, but only if it was 10 or 12 bit then there would be no banding. For the price, it's hard to justify the camera other than docs and TV work. Maybe in another 5 years Canon can deliver on the software side what the hardware is capable.
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[quote name='QuickHitRecord' timestamp='1354073199' post='22498'] Figured it out: [url="http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/1625-how-to-crop-2x-footage-to-15x-footage-on-a-smallhd-monitor/"]http://www.eoshd.com...mallhd-monitor/[/url] [/quote] I shot a round reflector and adjusted the stretch based on the image. But my numbers are close to yours. It works very well and I can frame everything nicely.
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Did you see the NOLA at night footage? Damn that's some clean low light video. Of course a lot of the image character is those sweet Leica lenses. But still, I can only dream of shooting clean night footage with my GH2. I'll wait for the GH3, but maybe next year I can get a BMCC. What an awesome camera!! Thanks again FilmMan you find the best stuff!