AaronChicago

Yeah it should. In my opinion the light dome is a bit more versatile b/c it has 2 layers of diffusion inside. You can remove 1 or both, depending on the shot. With both diffusion layers it gives a very painterly light. I just took this photo the other day of my son with the light dome only.

Aputure for sure. The 120s are so versatile. I recently got this light dome: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=1287574&gclid=CIb07NS409ACFVc6gQodv80IWA&is=REG&ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876%2C92051677682%2C&A=details&Q= It's the softest (direct source) light I've ever seen. Sort of like a budget Breise 140 which is used on every high budget commercial/music video.

Nice. Did you use the Fuji color profiles like Provia, Astia, Velva? I absolutely love Fuji as a stills camera. If the same color can be replicated in video with their film emulations I'd be all about it.

I made this yesterday for Reddit:

Late to this thread, but I HIGHLY recommend the XT2 for photos. I have the XT1 and I love it so much that I haven't used a Canon or M43 camera since. Video is pretty decent although there are better options but if you use the Fuji stocks like Provia you'll have amazing colors right out of the camera. 90% of the time I don't even edit my photos from the XT1 b/c the color is so terrific.

FS711? That has to be a joke.

I would avoid that one. It brings out some crazy cyan blocking. I"ll PM you.

What state are you in? I'm in Illinois and B&H/Adorama are tax free at check out.

Attaching a SmallHD 501 on top would be ideal. Swivel plus peaking and scopes.

I saw this for sale this morning: 1DC $2999 http://www.adorama.com/us%20%20%20%20774541.html?gclid=CI667uas7s8CFZKKaQodINYHbg So tempting!

IBIS doesn't really make since for a big camera like that. The only things that could improve to make it an excellent camera would be a new menu system, DPAF, and (maybe) higher frame rates at 4K.

The 24-105 for outdoors and 17-55 for indoors were essential in my opinion. DPAF works really well with them.

It's a weird situation. Luckily I"m not mastering anything in UHD or 4K so it's a non issue, for me. Just annoying to look at when playing the raw files.

I've had the cross hatching problem since updating to firmware 3.4 and higher (4.0 beta). It's something that should be fixed with firmware b/c it's a scaling issue.

I think you'd make a wise choice in getting 2 separate cameras. I never understood the need for using one camera for both unless it's just for fun or travel.

It makes it less genius if they thought of it after they ran out of money. If they had it planned all along, kudos!

Noise and resolution look better for sure. I'm not sure about the highlight roll off though. Look at the specular highlight on the marble. The GX85 looks burnt. Maybe it's a more contrasted picture profile?

They're both pretty shitty. Yeah DJI is softer. I mean this is entry level aerial equipment. I don't think anyone is counting on this to replace drones with a RED attached to it.

You can remove the plastic dome.

Damn. I can't see anyone even wasting money on the GoPro version.

Well if I knew the Rectilux was much better in this area I'd get it in an instant. I can still return the RF. I really wish I could shoot without it but I'm not great at all with dual focussing. If it's a stationary shot I'll definitely go bare.

I do. It seems more natural but with the normal anamorphic properties (barrel distortion, oval bokeh, flares).

Justin, I will upload a couple later today. I posted this question in the anamorphic section and got some good info. Any type of diopter, including variable, will add some stretch vertically.

Yeah I agree with oval bokeh and totally out of focus areas, but this is the entire frame, including the parts that are partially in focus. Everything except the dead center.

Thanks! Great info.