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QuickHitRecord

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Everything posted by QuickHitRecord

  1.   The stopper on mine was a plastic bump that was easily removed with the dremel. With regard to making a new stopper in a more favorable position, I don't believe that it will work. As I recall, the new stopper would need to stick out past the barrel, getting in the way of the full range of focus. It's best just to leave the barrel without a stopper. It's pretty easy to tell when you've focused too close and you're about to come off the threads (and it's easy to screw back on when you do).
  2. It's pretty easy, guys. Rich's instructions in this thread will take you step by stop. I don't have anywhere near the experience that he does but I was able to complete the mod fairly simply. I think that it took me around hour from start to finish.   EDIT: I had both threads open at the same time. This is the thread that I am referring to: http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/1711-i-just-modified-my-iscorama-36-for-close-focus/
  3. There's no real workaround. Consider getting a monitor with 2x magnification like the SmallHD AC7.
  4. I do not own any Canon DSLRs at the moment, but I just went through it and it's a useful technical guide.
  5. Unless he has sold it, Rich Gale (also a member of this forum) has been known to rent out his Iscorama. He is UK-based.
  6.   "Traces de champignons mais ça se restaure."   "Traces of mushrooms but can be restored."   That was a chuckle.
  7. A really cool and inspirational setup. Thanks for sharing with us!
  8. I'm in Northern VA too. I'm very familiar with the herons of Great Falls and I really like the photo that you got. Nice shot!   If you can wait, I'd suggest the BlackMagic Pocket Cinema Camera $1000) with the Panasonic Lumix 100-300mm lens (goes for around $500). If not, the $1,300 GH3 gives you weather sealing and 60 frames at 1080P (for slow motion; no other DSLRs that I know of offer this). Here is a sample that I found with that very combination:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlCCaI-ee1g So:   Panasonic GH3: $1300 Extra Rechargeable Lithium-ion Battery: $80 Sandisk Extreme 64GB 95MB/s SD Card: $120 Lumix G Vario 100-300mm F/4-5.6 OIS Lens: $500   TOTAL: $2,000   Replace that with a GH2, and you can shave $600 off of that price. You'll lose 1080P slow motion (you'll only get 720P) and the weather sealing, but you won't have to worry about moire patterns as you do sometimes with the GH3.
  9. You can adapt many different kinds of lenses to Micro Four Thirds mount cameras. It is a very versatile mount and sensor size combination. Dumb adapters usually run under $25 and they do make them for both Canon EF and Canon FD lenses.   If you are using EF lenses, you may have some difficulty because the camera won't be able to communicate with them electronically. So if you don't have a manual focus ring (versus direct coupled) or manual aperture ring, you may not be able to focus or change aperture while using a Micro Four Thirds camera. That would pose a problem. But if you are shooting with manual glass, then they will work beautifully. I primarily shoot with Nikon AI-S prime lenses from the 80s and they give me great results.   I think that depending on your budget, you may want to keep your existing kit and make a separate investment on the GH3 or the BlackMagic Pocket Cinema camera and the Panasonic 100-300mm f4-5.6.
  10. I am by no means a wildlife filmmaking pro, but I've done a couple shorts in that vein. Here's one a from a few years ago, shot with the 7D:   http://youtu.be/fo_rpn3b83k   If I were you, I would stay away from the full frame cameras like the 5D for wildlife (and bird) films and actually look into micro four thirds cameras. The crop sensor will get you in a lot closer to your wildlife subjects. A 50mm on a full frame DSLR gives you a 50mm field of view, but the same lens on the Micro Four Thirds Panasonic GH3 would be a 100mm field of view. The GH3 is also weather sealed, which is pretty valuable if you are really going to be off of the grid.   Or you could always wait for the Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera. Put the Panasonic 100-300mm lens on it, and with the Super 16 (approx. 3x) crop factor on that camera, you'll have an image stabilized 300mm-900mm field of view -- that will get you really, really close. Much closer than I could get for the film above.
  11. At a glance, the 5D looks the best to my eye, but that pesky fixed pattern noise (vertical lines) is pushing me towards the KineRaw on this one.
  12. Most of the current settings (particularly the ones by Nick Driftwood and Lee Powell) are very reliable as long as you have the SanDisk Extreme Pro 64GB 95mb/s cards. After a year of use, I have never had any problems.
  13. I have shot with both the GH3 and the D5200, and I have found that the GH2 (or possibly the upcoming G6) is a better value when it comes to shooting video. GH3 is pretty great all around but it has some problems with moire, and the D5200 has ugly fixed noise patterns at all ISOs. GH2 has limited dynamic range, but that can be worked around. Any banding I get is not as distracting to my eye as moire or FPN. For the price, GH2 gets my vote.
  14. Looks good! It's some of the best Cinelux footage I have seen.
  15. I had a film at the International Wildlife Film Festival last year, and I talked to many nature doc DPs about their techniques and some of the cameras that they were using. I was surprised by their answers. The Panasonic Varicam came up a few times, as did Red Epic, the Weisscam and even the AF100.   As a sidenote, I am actually contemplating doing another nature film, perhaps with the BMPCC coupled with the Panny 100-300mm. With the crop factor, that seems like that could be an insane combination for nature doc work.
  16. Wow, I wasn't expecting that (in the second video, as if I need to say it)... what is the song about?
  17. The new Cineroid EVF4RVW has an anamorphic mode. I was able to find this screen grab in the manual, which suggests to me that you can set the aspect ratio to anything you like: Or more likely, there are set increments. Has anyone used this monitor for anamorphic shooting?
  18. It struck me while I was writing about the Iscomorphot 8/2x that perhaps there is a better way to do this. If you have ever been to over to Personal-View, each piece of gear has its own thread and the initial post includes info, photos, and video clips. If someone creates a duplicate topic, Vitaliy redirects people and closes it. I think that what we need here is a sub-forum, similar to the way that 'GH2 Hack' is right now (maybe we can call the 'Anamorphic Directory' or something like that), and a dedicated moderator who can make sure that every known anamorphic lens has its own thread. Then forum members could update it with their own findings. It's all easily searchable, and it becomes a living, self-perpetuating database of anamorphic knowledge.
  19. It's an earlier model than the 36, so it shouldn't be multicoated the way that the 36s are -- you should get better flaring. And unlike the other non-36 Iscoramas, it should have the same rear diameter as the 36. The included taking lens is a C-mount instead of a Nikon, Pentax or Exakta like the others, but you probably won't be using it anyway. The 36 does not come with a taking lens.   Careful about the one up on eBay right now. I think that Tony pointed out that it has some separation issues.
  20. These are very well done. What was the size of your crew for these?
  21. Nahua, I'm always envious of you when I see your footage. That is some luscious green scenery and beautiful Hawaiian sunset. It's nice to be able to enjoy them both at the same time!
  22. I haven't authored one in a while, but I think that you used to be able to make a Google Docs spreadsheet editable to anyone with an email address. Also, I think that it saves versions of itself in case we get some spherical lens fanboy who tries to delete it or SPAM it.
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