richg101

it will work in theory.  and assuming the adaptor is the correct thickness to account for ffd difference you'll be fine. however, it looks like it might be a while before they release the SB in mft.  metabones should have developed the mft version first,with intention of simply using a method such as you suggest above to allow use on nex/e-mount aswell.

I wish there was one that did it to a card!  I don't want raw or big bitrates, but more colour information than 8bit would be really nice on a dslr

no matter what the forums and test videos say, the results you will get from an anamorphic will be directly proportionate and ultimately dependent on the time, effort and monetary outlay you spend on experimenting.   anamorphic, unless you can afford to hire production ready lens sets (and end up getting a set that actually works as it should, problem free) is a labor of love.  In order to yield good results significant experimenting of various lenses is needed.   Personally I think the current anamorphic trend is fuelled not only by the visual/aesthetic characteristics, but more so by the fact that unknowingly the bandwagoners don't realise that often the results from an anamorphic lens set are achieved more from the ability of the user rather than the actual equipment (the ability has been built up, honed and improved during many many hours of experimenting and trial and error.     obviously, an iscorama and a helios 44 is a proven combo that only a true muppet could fail to yield amazing images from.  but overall some of the nicest material I have seen has been from those who are working with cheaper lenses like the dual focus beasts like the kowa and sankors, and the little unknown 8mm dual focus options.  The limitations of the dual focus forces the user to work differently and this imparts a massive effect on the style of a piece.   what i'm trying to say is that IMO, any lens you buy on ebay will be lots of fun if your heart is in it enough to learn its strengths and weaknesses. Some lenses might need to be stopped down to f5.6 to get sharpness, some might not allow use to infinity, or close focus.  some might not flare as much as others.  some might be softer or sharper.  take a punt.  if you dont like the one you go for you can resell.  and you'll have learned the strengths and weaknesses of that lens and if it fills criteria for a future project you'll know to re buy one for those beneficial aspects.

great work guys.  liked it

I think there will be a lot of people cancelling and jumping on the canon raw parade.  so pre orders are probably diminishing as we speak.   I'm hoping everyone cancels, jumps on the shallow dof bandwagon like back in 2009 (but this time with raw), and leaves the smaller more tactful sensor size less used leaving potential for us who are sticking with it with the aesthetic edge.     I have to say I'm on the cusp of looking at a 5dmk3, but the idea of a silky smooth s16mm sensor (and its limitations) is one that is very attractive to me, where most are hankering after a larger sensor again. 

lesson learned....     not one person dealing with this issue seems to have contributed positively at all to this forum.  Just come here to take take take.  either selling or buying, they bring NOTHING to the forum.  Personally I think there should be a stop to all this posting of ebay listings, personal sales, etc.  at least topics of this nature should be only postable and visible by regulars.     Also, someone please close the ebay listings topic.  this has to be the most ridiculous idea ever.  Share your findings with the world, kill any chance of you or anyone else savvy to anamorphics getting a bargain because everyone and their grandma can come in and see a run down of anamorphics worth bidding on.  If it were a secret topic to regulars I'd understand, but literally, I'd say that topic alone is contributing 50% towards the current silly inflation of anything with a squeeze ratio! 

damn.  what a shame.  feel for the guys who have been scammed.  hope you get your money back

My 'rama 36 may be available. I'm being tempted by a 5dmk3, and need to raise some funds. a little separation, but hasnt got worse in the year I have used it for, and it is at the top and bottom of the lens optics so isnt directly in the light path, and certainly doesnt impart any visible issues. It's a single coated version (bronze/warm) not multi coated blue/purple. close focus mod for 3.5ft, silky smooth focus ring. I'm not gonna be selling on ebay just because it is too open for scamster buyers. It's a lovely example and I have been quoted £200 for a reglue of the separated optics here in the uk. so factor that in if you are thinking of buying to repair - though I seriously dont think its worth it. search my vids on vimeo for examples of some of the half hearted stuff I have used it for.:) http://vimeo.com/49847311 http://vimeo.com/57724126 http://vimeo.com/56135073 http://vimeo.com/55452126 http://vimeo.com/55033071 http://vimeo.com/55029919 http://vimeo.com/50363360 http://vimeo.com/50175295

  Weakness?  In the corners?  you wont get much better corner performance on a full frame sensor with any other lens giving you this field of view, while covering this size sensor.  You'll just have a boring Raw image with zero character, and little to no improvement in the corners.  I think you are mistaking the shallow depth of field and the excentuated anamorphic bokeh distortion created by the larger sensor area (bigger than anything any other digital camera in mass circulation) for lens issues.  

also, the absolutely huge 4:3 sensor area is really adding to the defocus distortions.  looks huge.  I would really like to see the results from a 50mm hasselblad lens on the 5dmk3 in this format.  4:3 in a Kubrick locked down shot look.  I think this would add a degree of extra vastness (like 4perf 35mm) without having the obviousness of anamorphic which I think is almost not required with such a huge sensor area.

wow.  this looks amazing.  lovely colour.  the 14bit capture really shows in the gradations in the flares.  I am really looking forward to seeing how your raw 5dmk3 handles the glares from your ff58 and isco combo.   

It's not the fact that a patent can't be infringed, its more the fact that the Chinese do not have the ability to manufacture such a lens for any less than the preowned cost of an original Iscorama36.  Now in order for companies with the ability to manufacture such a thing, they need to price it accordingly.  There are more than enough iscorama's to go around.  just buy one if you want it.  to get the parts of an iscorama remade,  I'd imagine you're looking at around £800 worth of glass work per lens if you ordered 50 off (based on uk prices), that doesnt include redrawing and machining of the mechanics (around £5000 initial id imagine, then about £300 worth of machining per lens once set up), then there is the assembly.  chinese fingers are good at assembling in mass, but in order to make 50 units a month they'd have to be assembled elsewhere, by guys costing £35-50/hr.     There isn't that much of a demand.  If there was, iscoramas should be selling for excess of £10,000 since they are as good, if not better than what cooke and zeiss just released.  If iscos were available to all, for under £500, they would be less desirable.  At the moment, IMO an iscorama on a canon 550d gives you the visual edge over a guy shooting on a red scarlet and cp.2's.  if everyone had an iscorama, the desirability would be lost.   

Hey Rob....  Forget the rubbish original taking lens...:)  your isco36 optimised FF58's went out today....       

  Like a modern lomo square front:)  

Unsure yet man:) Wont be a remortgage job, but not cheap either. no plastic. no far east labor, the glass and metal will be 100% British. forged in the furnaces of Somerset!

A little early plug of our latest product...  a slight step up from the original little FF58.  This is early sample footage of a prototype we are working on.  Single focus, a lomo-esq integrated anamorphic lens, based on our FF58 with an anamorphot we are developing.  Single focus, but using the LOMO focus method rather than the iscorama method.  this is a f2.8 50mm anamorphic lens system.  no diopters are used.  focus currently is from 4.5ft-infinity.  with lomo-like sharpness, and flares from the gods:)     http://vimeo.com/65480667 Password:- ???     CA is there at the edges.  but without it, i think the feel of this type of lens might be lost.     Lets hear some critique from you anamorphic nutters!.  We don't want to go into technicals as yet, but would love to hear some unbiased opinions on the look where getting from this first prototype.   in the movie you will see Hans using his Oct 18 square front and a FF58 in our new Bronze tint.  but all footage is shot with our newly developed anamorphot.  

3 grub screws on the adaptor loose?

focal reducer or not, thats an amazing achievement.  id have been excited by a 18-35 f2.8, let alone one with a inbuilt focal reducer and designed for aps-c.  this on m4/3 + metabones speed booster may not cover sensor, but on the BMpocket and speed booster this is gonna be deadly if it doesnt mind the speed booster.

If it has not been mentioned, the bm pocket camera + speed booster + iscorama = widest taking lens of 25mm before vignette. which is the same as a 35mm taking lens on aps-c or s35. this maxiumum taking lens width changes to around 35mm for longer anamorphics like the sankor/eiki types. I just picked up a distagon 25mm to add to the rollei zeiss collection for this exact purpose.

method:- buy a spare lens - or find a lens terminal from a nikon 1 lens. remove the terminal and glue in the right location into a nikon 1 to ef adaptor. remove the ribbon cable off the terminal and solder trailing wires in its place. check with multimeter and then 5miniute epoxy over to seal your solder work in place so solder joints cant break. solder the other end of the wires to the corresponding terminals on another nikon 1 lens. Then seal over all the soldering on the lens terminals with a cap and tape it down. now the camera still thinks the kit lens is attached, and as you depress the shutter you can hear the lens trying to autofocus. while doing so, perform focus on your manual focus lens. in order to take a photo you need to have an area of the image in focus before depressing the shutter button half way in order to present a green box 'focus' point' mark on the screen. Once focus is confirmed you can hold the shutter half depressed and refocus to your hearts content. then fully press to take the shot. I did this modification for a mate. He supplied the nikon and 2 lenses. works great!

http://www.dropbox.com/sh/fct1j4gvkfr09jc/AzveP5tkAN Burst mode working with non Nikon lens..... it took 2 kit lenses, but now 4k 60p raw can be shot on a jupiter 9!

all this worry seems like nonsense to me.  im gonna make do with a speed booster and some dslr lenses such as my rollei zeisses on my pocket.  might invest in a 25 distagon as my widest option, but if i need more in frame i'll move back or be creative with my shots.  wide shots are impossible to make look good unless you got big budgets.  my 25mm will be the equivalent of a 50mm on s35, and 50mm on s35 is the best focal length in terms of dof and width.IMO

  Hey Luke.  You will certainly gain a bit of the vintage look what ever you choose.  i'd say a variable aperture is best to stick with since you wont need the oval aperture.  low contrast and maybe a tint to match the colour of your kowa flare would be a nice move.  it will join the two lenses together and make it look more integrated.