andy lee

ps: peaking works realy well all the time if you use sharp lenses zooms with aspheric elements (alot of the new zooms have these) its very very good with Zeiss Contax primes , Yashica Primes, Canon FD primes

the Red Eye wide angle adaptor works prefectly on the Canon FD L 24-35 and the 35-105mm http://www.vfgadgets.com/shop/wide-angle-adaptors/redeye-wide-angle-adapter/ its small and light and is 72mm diameter. it is a single element wide adaptor and produces an image 3cm infront of the taking lens ......so you need a +3 72mm dioptor behind it to make it work all in all its optically like its not there..... no noticable loss at all I was amazed and its not bulky so you lens is only about 1cm longer with it on the front and your lens is now x0.7 wider !! its now 16.8mm - 24.5mm

try your setting in preferances for Windows and see how it is set You can get a G6 to look SIMILAR but not identical to your GH2 I shoot Nostalgic colour profile on the GH2 if you use Natural colour profile on your G6 and edit it so it has -5 contrast and -5 saturation it is now getting into a similar type of look to your GH2 on Nostalgic. Basically the G6 has more contrast and saturation so either boost those on your GH2 footage to match the G6 or reduce them on you g6 to match your GH2 Ive got several projects shot on G6 and GH2 and once graded you cannot tell what was shot on what camera... Thats what grading is for , thats why it gets called 'colour balancing.'

there are these things called lights ! stick 2 Redheads either side of the person being interviewed and f5.6 is just fine... I have done 100s of corporate interview talking head films in my time and NEVER have I turned up without lights indoors - you would just get laughed off the job ..... I would not advise anyone doing talking head interviews with just available light - it will not look professional ... get a set of lights to do this properly http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professional-Studio-Video-Continuous-Lighting-Kit-800w-Red-Head-with-Dimmer-x-2-/111125966407?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19df9fae47

ps: GF3 is superb outside in daylight - no banding at all in skies etc (Unlike my hacked GH2 which has banding in daylight skies) GF3 is an auto iso camera so fine in bright light where it automatically goes down to 160 iso but in low light and at night it auto racks up the iso and can get noisy - so take that into account - its a daylight out side camera Also cheap these days is the Panasonic G3 - now this has the same sensor in it as the GH2 - so nice images - but again its an auto iso camera so same applies as for the GF3

I use 2 x G6 as my main setup now - I do also use a Panasonic GF3 as a B Roll camera - Ive hacked it with Drifwood Quantum 10 hack so it kicks out 120 mb/s files - and its a cheap camera , under 100 UK pounds on ebay all my G6 lenses etc work well on it as its micro 4/3

Buy the Panasonic G6 its a great camera. and you have been misinformed the kit lens is superb it is the newer, smaller. ligher in weight, sharper , better image stabalised version the ASPH II - IT IS A KILLER LENS - 2 Aspheric elements and sharper than my Canon L series lenses that cost 5 times what this does. Canon kit lenses are very average Pansonic kit lenses are very very good! they dont make average lenses

spend spend spend haha! the more lenses the better ! Olly, glad you have a 24-35mm Canon FD L series its has a very filmic look to it , its a 24, 28 and 35 all in one lens stick a wide adaptor on the front and it is also an 18-24mm .......a very useful lens

thats the one bad thing about the micro 4/3 mount , it flexes with large/ big lenses , I cant even use a follow focus on micro 4/3 as it pushes the lenses up and down , the Canon EF mount being just that big wider makes it more stable ....

yes easy to do .....at the end of the take you swing the camera down and the bloody lens falls off the rods !!

I cable tie it round the rods just to make sure there is no vertical lift by accident too

for smaller anamorphics the Olympus x0,8 wide adaptor is good , I use that with my Schneider and isco gold lenses http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Olympus-WCON080E-B28-Wide-Angle-Lens-/230972684603?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35c70b793b rear is 55mm

get a 15mm rig to hold it with a substantial lens support on the end of the rods to hold the Century , as you have a camera + taking lens + isco + century = broken lens mount if you are not careful.......it will flex the Century is the biggest single piece of glass I have - its massive!!!!

just had a quick look through it , it's good folks so buy it - hardcore lens porn!! you will end up buying more lenses after reading this haha!! seen a few nice examples I dont have ......oh no here we go!!

remove the bayonet mount it is about 1 cm deep , so you now need to regain that height for your 77mm thread , so I bought 4 x 77 filters cheap UV's and took the glass out screwed them all together to regain that 1 cm depth , then epoxy glued them onto the rear area where the bayonet was , its simple to do you could use 72mm filter if you wanted there is just enough diameter at the rear to do this , but I did 77 so I can remove the last ring and add a 77-72mm step rring if need be for my 72mm fron Canon Lenses etc.

yes its that easy , Ive posted about how to do this before in the Anamorphic section the Century is a very high quality piece of glass made by Schneider , its big and heavy but does the job very well the bayonet at the back comes off with a few grub screws, I then added a 77mm thead , so I can use a 77-72 step down ring as needs be as this is a very good x0.7 wide adaptor for any lens not just anamorphics , so I use it on any lens with 77, 72 and 67mm fronts

just bought it , will have a good read of this

stick a Century Optics x 0.7 wide angle adaptor INFRONT of your Isco and you get a sharper wider image Ive done this alot it works well you can use your longer lenses and keep the character of them that you like the rear of the Century is 70mm + and its almost optically neutral ...... need to be on a rig as its big and heavy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Century-0-7x-Wide-Angle-Converter-Lens-for-Sony-HDR-FX1-HVR-Z1U-/301145900594?pt=UK_Photography_Conversion_Lenses&hash=item461db1c632 I converted mine took of the bayonet mount and it now has a 77mm rear thread on it

the wider your lens the more prone to flare your lens is , that's just physics ......so what I do is always shoot with a metal lens hood on all my lenses you can buy these cheap on ebay and my entire collection is fitted with them - yes one for every lens!! just get the right diameter for your lens front http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-wide-angle-49mm-metal-lens-hood-cover-for-49mm-filter-lens-/221414500337?pt=UK_Photography_CameraLenses_Lens_caps_hoods_adaptors_ET&hash=item338d5527f1

yes you can use them with adapters on speedboosters as you have just described it will work

the Zeiss P6 medium format lenses are some of the best you can get , I like these lenses alot , great contrast , Zeiss warm colours and very sharp !! and they have character , all hand made - no computers used in making these or designing them ticks all the boxes for me!!

I got rid of my Jupiter 9 for the same reasons also try the medium format Mir 45mm and 65m Kiev lenses ....also very nice

Biometar is a very nice lens , superb for head shots , very very sharp even wide open , the fall off bokeh is very nice indeed! creates great separation mine is a 1963 version with the plastic focus ring pre zebra, 50 year old glass

I have a bunch od these lenses they are Pentacon 6 mount (P6) so to use a speedbooster you will need an adaptor from P6 to what ever mount your speedbooster is Yes I have used my Schneider anamorphics on the Carl Zeiss 80mm f2.8 Biometar it has a 67mm front so works will with the Schneider that has a 70.6mm rear

what flare?????????