dahlfors

One thing to keep in mind: if/when these proprietary hardware solutions fail - you won't be able to get to the data on them until you get an identical unit delivered back that can detect the disks. Hence it's smart to backup to other thunderbolt / USB3 disks, preferably also when you're in the middle of working on a project. If you keep that in mind, it doesn't matter much what mode you set the device to, as long as the controller in this hardware device is up to the processing. Personally I wouldn't go for RAID-0 with four disks. If one single hard disk fails (with 4 disks, the chances for this happening is four times higher than with a single hard disk) - the whole array fails and won't work until you've plugged in another disk and rebuilt the array. With large disks this takes quite a while, and also note that any data that existed on it needs to be copied back if it was running RAID-0 - since all the data is lost in case of one disk failure. So it can cost you time... If you run the array in RAID-10 or RAID-5 mode, you can lose one physical disk and keep on working (actually in RAID-10 mode you can lose two disks and keep on working if you're lucky and lose the right disks). Later you can insert a new disk and put the array rebuilding in a few days when you have the time to wait for the rebuild. I've been building file servers for myself for 15 years, so quite a few things that seem obvious to me might not be obvious for others. But feel free to hit me up with questions if something seems unclear.

If you're looking for both speed and redundancy, RAID-10 or RAID 0+1 will be better. The RAID levels using checksum data (RAID-5, RAID-6 and such) will always be slower. But, with a fast enough processor for the raid storage you can get decent speeds out of RAID-5 and RAID-6 levels too. I'm not sure what kind of CPU that device has. Here's a test you can do if you have an internal SSD: Just create a large file that you put on SSD, preferrably a few TB's of size. In terminal you can do the following command: time cp /path/to/testfile /path/to/destination This will test the write speed of your volume (as long as the internal SSD is fast enough). time is a command that will give you the exact time it takes to execute a command. cp is the unix command for copying files. Do this test both for RAID-10 and RAID-5 on your device. For reading from the volume you just switch the source & destination paths and write to your internal SSD instead. A note here: If you don't have a fast enough SSD, you'll be benchmarking the read/write speed of the SSD instead of the thunderbolt volume. Then you'll have to find some software/script that can create semi-random data fast enough in realtime for benchmarking reads & writes. Anyway, how fast your volume will be with RAID-5 is very cpu dependent. I'm myself using a NAS I built myself which uses ZFS raidz2 (functions similar to RAID-6). The network connection is my limitation and I've reached write speeds of 400-500 MB/s when benchmarking on the machine itself with no network involved. Read speeds are even better. But that machine has quad-core Xeon cpu doing the checksum calculations. In the end what matters for you when you do your copy tests: - What sequential read & write speed is fast enough? - Is the most speed or the most available disk space more important? If you have the time to test with real data (test with the highest bitrate material you will be using), try that on RAID-5 first. If that is too slow - you will get a bit more speed out of RAID-10 and can rebuild the array with that.

Coincidentally, one guy brought one of these "hoverboards" (the one mentioned in the first post) to office today, so I got to try it. I learnt to ride it pretty well in ten minutes. You want good flat shoes for these, and they work nicely when barefeet. It's difficult to relax in the beginning, so you get good exercise in lower legs on your first trial. I can imagine that with a bit of training you'd be able to get good shots with a camera even without a gimbal with this device - as long as you have good shoes to be able to do exact balancing. I tried out on tiled pavement outside as well, and I'd certainly recommend some kind of gimbal for such surfaces.

Here's a PC hardware guide for Resolve: http://www.districtcreate.org/assets/davinci_resolve_windows_config_guide_june_2014.pdf (check especially page 25) Resolve relies heavily on GPU and they recommend a GPU with 3GB of RAM for HD. More RAM and SSD will always be better, but you'll be very limited with an old GTX 460 GPU. If you have space enough for cacheing - always use the SSD for cacheing, it's much much faster for such use than a traditional spinning hard drive.

Yep, you really need to practice so that the riding becomes second nature, then it's no prob. As a mountain biker & snowboarder for two decades, I can easily film with a DSLR while riding - but you really need a gimbal to get the video smooth. I can imagine these kind of Segway-like devices would be great for indoors use, maybe even without a gimbal. Outside there's so many cracks and bumps that you really need a gimbal.

I honestly don't know, I just found out about the software and it seems useful, so I thought I'd post it here. Since I have CC at work I'm a Premiere user myself.

There's a fairly new (since 2011) cross platform open source video editor: Shotcut - http://www.shotcut.org Seems like it is in early stages so far, but it looks promising.

The Kowa + Rectilux combination looks neat indeed! Is the SLR Magic a preproduction sample? Was it fully in focus here?

Don't you worry about those. I appreciate your contributions to the EOSHD forum, and I bet there's a lot more of us than just me! Cheers mate!

Yeah. I think this will be a magnificent tool for shooting nature documentaries in low light. It's only recently when they've been using infrared lights, and cameras capable of filming in starlight or by using heat. This will be another tool in the box. I'm thinking of documentaries like this one in particular: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75qTQixq66Y

It's not in "good condition" as ad claims. Here are photos of my Iscorama: http://imgur.com/a/562Vf The main questions are: does the focus and alignment even work? Why does the lens have that faded gray look? Is it possible to clean or not? I have no idea, but it certainly looks like the fade isn't a reflection, but something on the lens elements.

Nikon is rumoured to having a full frame sensor mirrorless camera in development. Nikon representatives have also mentioned that they're looking into 4k, but that there were design hurdles to overcome to design a camera with 4k, and they didn't believe their customers had a demand for 4k yet (this was mentioned in an interview earlier this year or if it was maybe last year). Panasonic, Samsung and Sony all have synergy effects to account for when they push for 4k in their cameras due to their TV divisions, so it makes sense for them to be the first manufacturers with a proper lineup of cameras featuring 4k. If Nikon or any other camera manufacturer invests in R&D for 4k capable cameras, they won't have any bonus effect from TV sales - because they don't make TVs. Hence from a business perspective it makes sense for them to see what the competition offers and what specifications they need to live up to. D810 and D750 are great still cameras and match very well what the still photographers request. The video features are probably enough for journalists and similar still photographers who also need to provide video material. Since Nikon doesn't have any pro video line to protect, they will certainly jump the 4k train. Considering the rumours for a mirrorless full frame Nikon, it isn't likely that they have missed the attention the mirrorless cameras have been getting among photographers in the later years, especially the attention the large sensor mirrorless Sony cameras - from both still photographers as well as videographers. I don't think we'll see a full frame Nikon mirrorless until 2016 at least. However, Nikon D5 has been rumoured to feature 4k, and I think it is plausible. Because, a new top of the line camera from Nikon usually means a newly designed image processor that will get implemented throughout their whole product segment of interchangeable lens cameras. If they want 4k in the upcoming cameras in 2016-2017, the new image processor for the D5 better be up to it. The likely timeline for Nikon D5 is either late 2015 or beginning of 2016. After that I expect all upcoming Nikon cameras to feature 4k. Canon are protecting their C100, C300 series of cameras for certain. But I think as soon as they know that Nikon starts offering 4k, Canon will also be ready to follow and add 4k capability to at least parts of their DSLR lineup.

I really hope they can add a 120p mode that performs as well for the upcoming A7000. RX10 II is very tempting, but I'd prefer interchangeable lenses.

If you are on a low budget, go for some kind of ND filter system like this http://www.ebay.de/itm/Full-Graduated-ND-Filter-Set-9-Metal-Adapter-Ring-Holder-Fur-Cokin-P-LF291-/271595911918?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item3f3c60baee instead of a cheap variable ND filter. (I have no experience with this exact item, but it's pretty much a clone of the original Cokin P system for a much lower price). I have the original Cokin P filter system and original Cokin ND's, as well as a few of cheap Chinese ND filters. The original Cokins have been better regarding color casts. The cheap ones I have affect the color a bit, but it can be corrected easily in post. What you gain with a filter system like this is that you don't lose sharpness. I had a Lightcraft Fader ND Mark II variable ND filter (priced a bit over 100 euro) that I unfortunately broke. I could easily see the difference of what was shot on the Lightcraft vs the plain ND filters. If I'd get a new variable ND filter I'd want something sharper than the Lightcraft. I also use my ND filters for still photography at 36 megapixels, so I like the plain ND filters since I don't lose sharpness.

​Cool. I've been liking what I saw from the FM lens module so far. Will be interesting to see what the rectilux looks like. Keep us updated ​

Tito, which anamorphics are you going to use the Rectilux with? Gonna be interesting to see how that performs!

The speed difference between internal memory in phones and using SD cards is mainly due to higher latency and low I/O on memory cards (and partly due to controllers), there's nothing wrong with the speeds of sequential reads and writes. For photography and video sequential reads & writes are the only type of data access performance that matters.

Considering that super slow-motion shots needs lots of light or high ISO, A7S mk2 would be the perfect camera in Sony's lineup to feature super slowmotion/HFR modes.

For studio use, some kind of NAS solution with Gbps interface will be the most affordable solution. Thunderbolt or similar faster storage solutions tend to cost more.

For the final review I'd be interested in how you find the battery life when filming in 4k and HFR modes.

The movement done in post worked nicely! I personally like to use very little gear when I'm out and about. Seems like this works nicely to give a little bit of movement and life to static shots when you only need 1080p output!

​Nice find. I've been waiting for that camera. Suddenly it seems even more interesting

My thoughts are same as TheRenaissanceMan's when reading your post - why isn't RX10 II one of the options? RX100 IV is more limited for video use than the RX10 II. I'd say, head to a store to check out RX10 II / A6000 / LX100 / G7 and try to find out which one you like best after trying all of them. Any of those cameras have good quality video, while the RX10 II has the best slow motion capabilities of the bunch. Image quality is good in all of those, so If slowmotion or interchangeable lenses aren't your top prio, how you like the handling of the camera should be what makes the decision.

Yes. I signed that change.org petition. I don't feel like we need more limitations on what we're allowed to do in public space without applying for permit for everything...

​Only briefly tried it in a shop. But I've seen enough videos of it to know that it performs very well with 1080p video. If you have the possibility to try it out in a shop, by all means do. It is a very neat camera, and a very portable one at that (coupled with the right lens).