Bioskop.Inc

On a MFT body you can actually push it to 30mm, but if you ever want to use Diopters you'll need to get bigger ones to avoid vignetting. As far as F stop is concerned it really is up to the quality of your taking lens, as the Kowa can easily cope with fast lenses. [This is assuming you're speaking about the Kowa for Bell&Howell] I've used a Super-Takumar 35mm f3.5 wide open & it is nice'n'sharp and i've had no problems with f2 lenses, such as the Mir-24m or even the Helios 44-2 - again it all depends on the condition of your taking lens & if you use good quality diopters, they can also sharpen things up.

Genus Eclipse Vari ND - v.v.good, probably the best one that i've used! https://frankglencairn.wordpress.com/2012/12/08/nd-fader-shootout-heliopan-vs-the-new-genus-eclipse/

If you don't have the cash for the MB speedbooster go for one of the cheaper ones, they really aren't that far off & I think that some of the RJ ones are on v2.

If you're not fussed about Dual Focus, then look at the following 2x anamorphics: Kowa for Bell&Howell - this is one of the best quality lenses in terms of glass (definitely on a par with an Iscorama). Kowa Prominar 8Z or 16H - these are the same as above, but not as good glass. Sankor (Singer) 16D - this is the cheapest & not as sharp as the above lenses, has blue flares. (These 4 lenses have big rear elements, which gives you more choice with the taking lenses you can use) 2 Others to consider: Iscomorphot 8/2x - made by Isco-Gottingen (same firm as Iscorama), small & Very Sharp (sharper than an Iscorama), but its a fixed focus lens @ 4m (so you'll need diopters). This can be had for under £300. Isco Widescreen 2000 MC 1.5x - Bigger brother of Iscomorphot, but eventhough its a fixed focus @ 5m, if you stop down the taking lens to f4/5.6 you can rack focus. This is about £500. Edit: Forgot the Bolex Moller! (Slaps head & DOH!) There are those big heavy colourful lens beasts as well, but they are...how should I put it...cheap & too clinical for my tastes.

The Meteor 5-1 is v.nice, but it'll vignette until 25mm on the BMPCC. If budget minded, get an RJ focal reducer for the meantime - it'll get you to a M4/3-ish crop factor. If not decide whether to get the Nikon (or another Mount) or EF Speedbooster - the Nikon/Other mount versions are cheaper, but the EF will allow you to use more lenses. Nikon, Canon FD & Yashica - all can be had quite cheap & are excellent (I prefer the Nikon ai-s lenses out of this bunch). The Russain lenses (normally M42) are lovely, but not always fast.

If you like the BMPCC then go for it - you really don't have to spend loads of money to kit it out straight away, you can add stuff as & when you need them/can afford them. Used lenses are the way to go to save money - Nikon ai-s, Canon FD, Russian M42 lenses are great. As far as Speedboosters go, the RJ ones are very good (but will only get you to MFT sensor size) & cheap - it goes without saying that the Metabones Nikon BMPCC SpeedBooster is a lot cheaper than the EF version & they'll get you to about APS-C. Battery life isn't that great, but there are enough cheap options out there to make it a non-issue really. It might be worth going away & doing your sums for kitting out a few different cameras. Just remember that there's no right or wrong choice, there's only the choice that is right for you at this moment in time - so if money is the deciding factor in your choice then spend it on things that you can take with you when/if you upgrade camera body. Check out Kendy Ty on vimeo - he started off using a Canon T2i, a Nikon 30mm lens & natural light and produced some of the most inspiring stuff i've seen done on a DSLR! vimeo.com/kendyty

I was waiting for the Mac Mini as well, but their dual-core BS has canned that idea. If you're just doing a little editing it should be fine, but if you end up doing more & more you'll proabably regret the decision to buy it.

So this is mainly a BIG thank you to Andy for all his help & advice - so good to have a resource like this. On his recommendation I got a Tokina AT-X Pro 28-70mm f2.6-2.8 & it really is a v.nice lens - tried on my Canon & Pocket, I even wacked an Iscorama on it too. Also, got a Meteor 5-1 17-68mm f1.9 (just for the Pocket as its a 16mm lens) & this also seems to be a very good zoom, but it has it quirks: it vignettes on the Pocket until you get to 25/32mm & its min. focus is 2m. However, when you put a diopter on it, not only does it get you closer (obviously), but for some reason you can go a lot wider as long as you are close to Infinity (which is no longer infinity due to the diopter) - this struck me as a strange quirk. The Question: I am thinking about getting the EF speedbooster for the Pocket, but can you put adapters on it without any problems? I have M42, Canon EF & Nikon lenses - I've already got an RJ SB clone for M42, but could really do with the extra boost.

This...especially the last bit. Its not all about flares & in fact the flares can end up ruining perfectly good shots - you don't want people to say "look it flares!", you want them to be enveloped by your beautiful framing etc... Also, shooting car headlights, torches etc...is the most boring, pointless, waste of time I can think of. Dual focus lenses aren't that hard to use, it forces you to be more inventive with your shot selection & you end up learning the basics about framing/shot types far quicker.

Ah, didn't know this - nevermind then. Yeah cropping can be done, but again you lose a bit of resolution - RAW is much better for cropping, but a PINA.

Has anything else changed apart from in-camera formatting? Just think i'm going to skip this update if that's all they added... What we really need is some anamorphic sizes to use & manual WB settings, but even the latter isn't that important.

This was a total experiment, as i hadn't really road tested this combo too much & definitely not in a chaotic run'n'gun situation like this. The main problem was allowing the band to take care of recording the sound, which they inevitably messed up, yet again! So the sound is from another gig... BMPCC (ProRes) 1 GoPro shot RJ jinfinance Focal Reducer Mir-24M (35mm f2) + Isco Widescreen 2000mc x1.5 Anamorphic Adapter Genus Eclipse + Hoya UV/IR cut filter (30mins of Battery & Card space used during filming) I think i've had it with doing live music videos on my own.

Thanks eversomuch, that explains exactly what i needed to know. So all i need do is source a good adapter, in mint condition - preferably black. The only other option i could think of was to place a small thin piece of plastic onto the adapter in order to insulate it. cheers, you're a life savour!

Metabones state the following: "Some improperly-made M42 screw mount adapters may short the electronic contacts of the Speed Booster and cause damage to the Speed Booster and/or camera body." Has anyone tried using an M42 adapter or got any info from Metabones about which ones work & which don't? I've tried e-mailing them a few times & they've just not responded - seems crazy to make such a statement, but give not more details. Don't understand why M42 adapters are any different from other ones...! I could really do with getting this SB, but it a deal breaker if i can't use my M42 Russain glass on it. cheers stu

Thanks so much, this has been so interesting & in keeping with the spirit of an open source community - in a time where people just seem to want to take take take, rather than give! This Anamorphic Forum has always been about people helping/giving advice to others who are passionate about Anamorphic Lenses or to those that are just discovering them. I tip my hat to you - especially in light of the vitriol displayed in another thread!

Thanks, that's what i needed to hear as the Lanparte was one of the FFs i was debating.

Thanks John, will check out the Fogta. As far as price range goes, I can't afford an Arri FF! So I suppose real max is £300ish

What's the taking lens in those pics? Back on topic - So no complaints with the Lanparte FF?

Cheers, but really need the thing that will turn the gear first - nice heads up though!

Well i've been rack focusing with the 5 stubby things i was born with for quite sometime & no complaints. Then the other night i cursed the fact that i didn't have a FF for the 54 - needless to say i kinda got the shot, but it took a while. So does anyone have any decent suggestions (based on experience with the 54 or similar big lens), which won't break the bank & that work properly. All tips, clues, advice really welcome, cheers stu

Dave, i wouldn't worry about this too much, as anamorphics aren't a precise science & the stretch factor is always a ball-park-token-figure - its part of the charm/look that anamorphics give to an image. The stretch factor can change due to various factors - I've noticed different focal length taking lens can affect the stretch on some anamorphics & also where abouts you are on the focus scale can also play a role too (i.e. being @ infinity can give a different stretch than @ 2m). Pick a factor you're happy with and stick with it, as this could quite easily drive you insane - I just go with 2.66:1, as i'm not after perfection, i'm after the anamorphic look.

If you want "cheap", then Mir-1b 37mm f2.8 Mir 24M 35mm f2 (this is by far the best of the cheap options & comes in M42 or Nikon mount - M or N) Super Takumar 35mm f3.5 You can get these for under £100, apart from the Mir 24 which can vary & the M42 version is always over priced.

Cheers Andy - again you're a fountain of interesting lens suggestions! Just got to find one now in the UK! Will also check out that Canon FD you just suggested.

Thanks Andy - I don't seem to be able to see that web page anymore, which is why i was asking. So looks like i let a few slip through my fingers - they go quite cheap as well!

Hey Andy, RE: The Tokina, how the hell do you tell the different versions apart? I think i've got it, but it's just not entirely clear, as there are so many different versions. So the Angenieux version (Pro 1) has a 77mm thread & has a screw-in hood, whilst the Pro 2 version has a bayonet hood? Is this right? Please don't say google it, as that just brings up every version...