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  Sorry didn't know that.. Uploading to wetransfer now, will make a new post with link and also copy it into OP.

This morning I decided to shoot some test footage to make available to anyone interested but also to get some opinions/tips from more experienced forum members.   You can get all the shots here seperately (Account needed) - http://www.4shared.com/folder/Ok9FV-vH/GH3.html Or download this file which has all 5 clips included (No account needed) - http://we.tl/Vwx4S3h3JT   It isn't exactly 100% accurate since the light is changing so there is a 2/3 of a stop difference in aperture between the shots (I stopped down the aperture to compensate the change in light).. In this particular shot I probably would have chose to shoot at +1 stop exposure since the big rock was a bit dark but I decided to let the camera "pick" correct exposure for all shots, I was shooting on manual but let the meter decide what was correct exposure.   Each clip is only 10 seconds in length, every clip was shot at 1920x1080, 24p, 50Mbps, 1/50th, 200 iso (with a slight difference in aperture between all 5 clips - I think I started on f/16 and by the 5th clip was on f/20) I focused on the big rock in the water.   Each clip is a different Photo Style (Standard, Vivid, Natural, Scenery, Portrait) and in all of the Photo Styles Contrast, Sharpness, Saturation and Noise Reduction were all at -5.    Hope the shots are ok for grading.. I'd really appreciate any tips/comments on what you think about grading the footage, what program you used, which clip you think grades the best, and also specifics like sharpening and getting rid of noise (any tips for sharpening in FCP7 would be great).. Maybe no one will reply lel but I thought I'd put it up anyway since I'll be practicing grading the shots myself anyway, but I am only new to color grading.    Thanks!

I'd like to see one of these done with a GH3.

  Why buy the 5D3 if there's a C50 for the same price and same quality but with better form factor?

If it's about $3000 and as good as a 5D3 I WILL buy it..

What's the price on those?

So I'v been asked to film some interviews which I will get paid for, however the place I work is no longer letting us use the cameras as another operator damaged one.   So, the place that has asked me to do the filming own a 60D which I can use, however I'd much prefer a multicam setup.. But the only other camera I have access to at the moment is my own which is a Panasonic GH3 and it's the NTSC version even tho I live in Australia lol (25p, 50p PAL).. For my own personal projects it works fine as my stuff just goes on the net and if I need 25p I USUALLY have access to the much higher end cameras at work.    I am considering renting or maybe even buying a Canon DSLR just for this project since I could get one pretty cheap and just whack a 50mm f/1.8 on it for the closeup shot, this would cut into what I'm earning though.   Should I even entertain the idea of using an NTSC GH3 with a 60D? Is there any tricks I could do to get around it? And even if I do would each shots between both cameras just look different and odd looking?   It has to be in PAL settings as the interviews are going to be put on one of those gold DVD's that last 100 years (who the heck is going to own a DVD player in 100 years!?)    

  I just saw it on B&H and put it up as an example, I'm looking at that Sachtler one too but it's very expensive and I'm not even 100% sure what the plate on the top is for.. But I have a Sachtler tripod with a fluid head, I'm assuming it may be possible to attach the head to the monopod? The head is huge though, not sure how well it would work on a monopod lol.   I'm really not a fan of Manfrotto.. so I haven't looked into their options. Another thing I'v been wondering is how a Monopod would compare against something like a small red rock micro rig for handheld shooting. Specifically I'm just looking for the best portable stabilization as I can't always be on a tripod. 

  Can I have a job?   My credentials? Sometimes I make over a whole $100 filming local sports or seminars............

  Well it's cheap pretty much but has better ergonomics than the rebels.. I plan on upgrading to something higher end (maybe a C100) not too far down the track but I'd like to start investing in glass and accessories now for when I do. I don't want to spend however much on a 5D3 as it will just cut into what I'v saved so far for something better. I thought I could manage with a 60D for 12 months until I upgrade, meanwhile I'll have already invested in Canon glass.    Still not sure on what glass to buy though.. Not sure whether to go with f/4 zooms and 1 or 2 low light primes, or just go with the f/2.8 zooms.. BUT I'm probably going to still want low light primes even if I buy f/2.8 zooms so maybe it's dumb to spend extra on the f/2.8 zooms when f/4 zooms are cheaper since I'd want low light primes anyway.

What sort of person, especially one as busy as Philip (according to him working 90% of the year abroad) decides to contact a multi-million dollar company to ask them if he can help promote their product for free??   >Dear Adabe,   UR CS6 is bretty gud, I Philip Bloom would like to film a video review and do an interview FREE OF CHARGE to halp your trillian $$$ company promote ur softwear. Thanks P.Bloomy.   Not only that, if it were Adobe that contacted him who in their right mind would tell such a big company that you'd do it free of charge? Philip is a business man and a busy one at that, he's not going to do something for free for his time and effort.   Sure his reviews gets people to visit his website, but his other reviews don't end in logos or interviews from the company of the product he's reviewing.

I haven't read the thread yet but I'v started to dislike PB lately.. It's hard to read his blog in between the 10,000 advertisements.. Also, h puts that ethics statement everywhere (and I may be wrong) but especially in the video of him talking about he switched to Adobe Premiere Pro he had the ethics statement above then the video (posted on (ADOBE'TV) an interview with someone from Adobe below and at the end of the video the Adobe logo pops up lol...... The ethics statement says he has no financial relationship with Adobe but somehow I don't think that video was made for Adobe'TV just out of the goodness of his heart, especially when he is so busy doing paid work.    And if it was an independent and genuine review of the product it didn't need the the Adobe logo or Adobe interview.

I'm trying to decide whether it's worth buying the new Canon IS primes for video use, specifically the 35mm f/2 IS.. However it's almost $1,000 and for that price I could get the regular 35mm f/2 and a really decent video Monopod..   Miller makes one that's about $150 (on sale right now for $128) for the monopod itself and $160 for the quick release plate. Sachtler also make one but it is quite a lot more expensive at $692 monopod+quick release plate..    It's really just for when I can't use a tripod.. I really like the idea of being able to get steady hand held shots, but a monopod isn't really that much extra weight anyway.. I think the pro of the IS is that you aren't really restricted in any way but with the monopod you can also rest the weight of the camera on it inbetween shooting. Also with the monopod it will also give lenses without IS that stabilization too.   Thoughts? Also, if anyone has experience with the Miller or Sachtler monpods I'd be really interested to hear what you think about them. Thanks.

Will a Z-Finder that fits on a 5D2 also work on a 60D? 

  Thoughts on the EOS-M mount? Could Canon make a cinema camera with the EOS-M mount with a Canon made EOS-M to EF adapter and it be successful? Could the EOS-M mount also work on a FF DSLR?

Planning on buying either a Canon 60D (or maybe a 6D) and using it for a year before I upgrade to something better.   I'm trying to decide what Canon lenses I should buy that will be the most useful but also the best bang for buck. For example, I am currently considering the 17-40 f/4 as a wide zoom, 24-105 f/4 for pretty much everything else and a 35mm f/2 IS for low light.. I figure these 3 lenses cover a pretty good range, the 24-105 is equiv to about 38mm which isn't exactly wide which is why I'm also considering the 17-40.. I think the IS on the 24-105 will come in handy for static hand held shots as well as the IS in the 35mm f/2 which will serve as a low light lens that has the benefit of IS too.   Anything else I should consider before buying this stuff? I'm having a hard time deciding whether to go for the f4 stuff for now or whether to invest what I have into something like a 24-70 Mk II, it doesn't have the IS.. But I don't want to feel in 12 months like I should have just gone with some f/2.8 glass instead. I like the idea of having IS, but is it viable to use IS for static hand held shots or is a rig essential? I'll be shooting mini docs, interviews that sort of thing..    I'm also considering the 6D as a possibility for its low light performance, however I'm leaning towards the 60D as it's so affordable and I'd still want to upgrade to something above the 6D within the year since I'm getting more work.    Sorry long post.

I'v got a job filming some interviews, I plan on shooting multicam (two 60D's) but I haven't figured out what I'm going to use for audio yet. Normally I'd use the work cameras and accessories but this job I'll be doing it myself with my own gear. I am thinking about buying a zoom h4n BUT I'm not sure where I'd put it because one of the cameras will be on a wide shot (head to toe) which will make it hard to have the zoom h4n next to the person being interviewed.. So then I thought about buying a rode videomic pro.. Not sure what the best way to set this up would be.. Have the mic sitting on the wide shot cam or on the close up cam..  Any ideas? As quite a few people are being interviewed I don't want the hassle of using a lapel mic. It's also just me doing the filming, I haven't totally written off the idea of paying someone to help, the guys I know are pretty cool but then I have to figure out how much I'd pay them out of what I'm making, what I'd use them for and have to check when they're available to shoot since it's an ongoing project. It would just be a lot more convenient if I can do it myself. Thanks.

I just saw the one on Planet 5D he seemed to think it was even worse. 

Bumping this thread.. How is the moire and aliasing compared to the 5D2? 

plz respond

SOMEONE DO A TEST AND POST! I'd try but it's pitch black and raining outside.

>Canons face when

George Lucas talks a lot.

This post was too long, I'll make it shorter.

I can't think of the technical term for the problem you're having with the white paper but it is to do with both your lens (some lenses have a "glare" when dealing with strong light and using a wide aperture) but it also could have just been that you were blowing it out (making that specific part of the image over exposed) as you were exposing for the band. Blowing out highlights is just something everyone has to deal with when dealing high contrast situations (like if it's a very very bright day and you are trying to film/photograph someone in dark shade you might blow out the sky making it white instead of blue). With practice you will learn how to better deal with these situations better but sometimes there is no way around it. This comes down to "Dynamic Range" if a camera has better Dynamic range it will handle high contrast situations.. This is one area where film is still superior to digital.   The peak performance of a lens is usually around f/5.6 or f/8.. When a lens is "wide open" shooting at its widest aperture (f/1.8, f/1.4 f/1.2 etc) unless it's extremely good will usually be slightly softer than when it's at f/5.6 or f/8.. However, stopping all the way down to f/22 doesn't make your pictures any sharper it actually makes them worse due to lens diffraction (look it up) lens diffraction will appear at different apertures (dependent on sensor size).   I'm honestly not sure how noticeable lens diffraction is for video but any good photographer will avoid shooting at such apertures as it will make your images softer. Good luck.