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I know not many people are shooting with Sony DSLTs but maybe there is someone out there who can help me. I'm trying to find the best creative style options for color grading and getting the most out of the camera. Currently I am shooting on "sunset" as I read on "Michael Merto's" blog that sunset mode creates the smoothest gradients with the least artifacts.. I also have my Contrast at -3 Saturation at 0 and Sharpness at -3, I have turned DRO off and thanks to Michael replying through youtube turned the in camera noise reduction off.   Just wondering if anyone else was shooting with some different options or had some different tips.   Thanks!

I like how people think that because the 1D C can shoot 4k and you could frame grab stills think it's viable to just shoot video willy nilly during a wedding or any other event where time is valuable and expect to create both decent images and a decent video. Assuming you can afford a 1D C you probably have a standard of high quality work to be able to afford such a camera.. At what point do you think "shit, this camera can shoot 4k now I'll just shoot a whole 5-10 minute video in-between shooting all the stills" And do they shoot the whole video handheld or what?   This amazing photographer with the 1D C that has decided to create both an album of high quality stills and a 5-10 minute high quality video with some sort of story for the event must be not only extremely talented but also time efficient.    Not to say that it can''t be done.. But to think that the extra $4,000 is worth it because you can "shoot 4k video and frame grab stills" isn't exactly as straight forward as people are implying. And just because it can doesn't make it easy to utilize in practice.. And if it's not viable to do then it's not worth doing which means it would be pointless to "just spend an extra $4,000 because it shoots 4k".

"The Canon 1D C, buying an overpriced camera and trying to justify it: A how-to guide."

Oh and I know they aren't the most popular but I'm going to throw it out there anyway since I like them lol.. You can get a Sony 35mm f/1.8 alpha lens for less than $200 brand new.. You can get a fotodiox adapter ($50) that will let you control the aperture just like Nikon lens adapters, not electronically but manually with the adapter itself. It's not as popular as Canon or Nikon options but actually performs really well.. If you looked up reviews they will be positive. 

Get a Nikkor 35mm f/2.0 D lens.. Can be found extremely cheap (I see one brand new for $250) and performs well. Also in the EOSHD Speed Booster review it says (quote below).. So if that's correct the newer 35mm f/2.0 should be better than the older AI-S version. The D version probably isn't as good as the newer G version but G lenses don't have an aperture control ring on the lens the D versions do. You also get AF which you won't be able to use unless you find an adapter that supports it (I don't know if one exists) HOWEVER the trade off is that you lose the build quality and hard stop of the older manual focus lenses. With the money left over from buying the D lens you could also get a 50mm f/1.4 D or a 28mm f/2.8 D both can also be found for around $250.   "In the centre the Speed Booster actually corrects some coma and gives a small sharpness and contrast boost, however the fall off in sharpness towards the edge of the frame is more severe than on a full frame DSLR without Speed Booster. It seems to be more of a problem on old lenses designed for film than newer ones designed for digital."

wut

  I don't know about that lens specifically but I know if you contact SLR magic directly they will offer to sell you one, or at least they did when I was inquiring about the 35mm t/1.4 which was out of stock at Adorama and I couldn't find one anywhere they offered me one at the rebate price with 2-3 day shipping.

Is there likely to be a Sony alpha to Sony NEX Speed Booster? 

I don't know what macro lens you can get for $200 (maybe one of those macro conversion lens things? I don't know how well they work..) an excellent and affordable (but still over your budget) macro lens is the Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 macro AIS lens ($400). You would also need an adapter for this lens though so another $50-$150 depending on what one you get.    I really can't think of anything better than the Nikkor.. Maybe that new Olympus one that got good reviews which is $499.. I'm not sure how they'd compare IQ wise both are supposed to be incredibly sharp and around the same price with the adapter for the Nikkor. I'd say Olympus if you need the AF (who needs AF for macro work??) and the Nikkor if you want something with god-tier build quality and something you could adapt to different cameras down the track since it covers FF.

2deep4me

I'd like to start shooting time lapse videos, I live on the coast and I want to do a time lapse from stars at night through sunrise in the morning. I have a general idea for what settings to use for just stars or during the day etc but I'm not really sure what settings I should use going from stars at night through to sunrise as the light will be changing so much.. Would setting camera to Aperture or Shutter Priority be the best option? Or will the change in light make the exposure too "jumpy"? I'd like to have the ocean in it as well since I'v got a particular place I'd like to shoot it, If I shoot in Shutter priority it will look silly going from smooth water from the long exposure to clear/sharp water when the sun is up?    Any other tips appreciated, especially regarding intervals and what looks best. Thanks.

Have you done any before and after color grading GH3 footage? I'v also been playing around with the picture profile on my GH3, but I am inexperienced for grading footage.

I need a standard focal length low light lens for my GH3 and I'm trying to decide between the SLR Magic 35mm T/1.4 and the Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 AI-S. I'm currently saving for a trip to the US so I don't want to spend too much.    I already own a Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 AI-S, so I wouldn't need to buy one but I'd need to buy the adapter. The problem is neither of these lenses are a standard focal length.. I have a 14mm f/2.5 which covers me for a 28mm wide but my only other lens starts at 75mm (150mm) so I'm desperate for a standard focal length low light lens.    I could go with the Nikkor but at 100mm it's so far from standard that I think I'd still be desperate for something closer to 50mm, but the SLR Magic 35mm isn't exactly standard either at 70mm equivalent..... It cost more than twice as much as a good adapter but at least it's CLOSER to standard than the Nikkor, and good in low light as well.   Any ideas on which one I should get? Any other options that I would be good alternatives and cost less than $300? (Including an adapter if needed).   Thanks.  

  Nikon F please.

Nahua, I'v been using the settings you recommended in my thread.. What do you think of -3 sharpening? How big is the benefit of shooting at -5 (which was very soft) and sharpening in post, to shooting at -3 or -4 instead and keeping slight sharpening through the camera? If you could do a test on this It would be great. Also, do you sharpen each shot individually or do you just have a generic sharpen technique that you like to use on everything?

I read somewhere else (maybe the other speed booster thread?) someone explaining about infinity focus issues with this type of adapter. 

I just use the live histogram.. 

I can't wait to adapt my Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 AI-S onto my GH3 with the speed booster.    ALSO, question for you guiz. With this adapter some older MF zooms with the (extra stop of light?) plus wider focal length are going to become very appealing. What's going to be the best? zoom range + f/stop wise.

>$599   It's not THAT revolutionary,

>My face when

Canon didn't "forget" about the indie filmmaker.. They just don't care. Look at the 5D3..... People still supporting them and buying Canon products.........................

Why do people buy Canons over REDs? Aren't they very similar in price? Serious question. 

3D won't die because it's their anti-piracy weapon. 3D will keep being pushed, maybe not as much in consumer land (yet) but definitely in hollywood land. So no, 3D is not going anywhere anytime soon. 

I recently bought a GH3 so I won't be "upgrading" any time soon but, shooting video is something I'd like to do long term (I'v had mild success so far getting a job as a camera operator - I don't use the GH3 for this job) so I'm trying to think of what I can get that I can use now but that I will also be able to use in the future. I'v bought a few Panasonic lenses which I like but I am reluctant to buy the more expensive lenses as I'll have to sell them when I'm ready to move up to something better.    I can't afford anything like Zeiss CP.2's but I was wondering if there were any older manual focus lenses that are popular among videographers that I could adapt to my GH3 now but would also be beneficial to have down the track if and when I buy something similar to an FS100 etc.    I know you can pretty much adapt any glass but is any particular set more popular among video shooters?   Or, should I just go with the Panasonic lenses and if I need too sell them down the track. I know there is the AF100, but I remember reading that due to poor sales and large price drops the future of that system is unclear.    Thanks.

Let's talk about RED cameras, they look pretty cool. One day I'd like to touch one, I dream about it. Need to get a job somewhere that has such a camera.