/p/

Remember when movies used to be good?  

  The + and - symbols refer to exposure compensation, you should try and stick to manual as the aperture/shutter priority modes are better suited to photographers.. When shooting in aperture priority the camera lets you set the aperture and the camera automatically sets the shutter speed to get correct exposure, in shutter priority the camera lets you set the shutter speed and the camera will set the aperture to get correct exposure.   The way this works with the + and - is that say it looks something like this -.....^.....+ (something like that lol) lets call that the "exposure bar" normally you will have a small mark that indicates where you are on that bar, if the mark is in the middle of the bar that means.... When you are shooting in aperture priority the camera will automatically change the shutter speed to get correct exposure (if the mark is in the middle of the bar) if you are in shutter priority it will let you set the shutter speed then it will adjust the aperture itself to get correct exposure. The middle of the bar represents correct exposure, the + represents overexposure (making it brighter) and the - underexposure (making it darker. In shutter priority you could set your shutter to 1/50th and then the camera will take over the aperture and adjust it to whatever point you have indicated on the bar (if you have the mark in the middle it will try and set the exposure to what it thinks is "correct exposure) if you have it down in the - it will adjust it that so your picture looks darker and + brighter.   This works as photographers as they don't really have to worry as much about changing light, a lot of wedding photographers will use aperture priority, set their aperture to f/2 or f/2.8 or something similar and then let the camera pick the shutter speed for correct exposure and not have to worry about it, if it's tricky lighting and the pictures look a bit dark instead of setting it to manual they can just increase the exposure compensation (or decrease if they want it darker) too help expose the shot.   This can also work for getting a shallow depth of field if you are shooting in shutter priority and adjusting your exposure with exposure comp, however there is really no benefit using aperture/shutter priority for video, once you learn how aperture works you will know how to get a shallow depth of field by controlling aperture yourself.   the little bar -.....^.....+ will still be there in manual mode, and it still refers to your exposure but it will not adjust anything to help you get correct exposure, if you have set it and the camera thinks it's too bright it will be in the + area and if it's too dark the - area if it thinks you have a correct exposure it will be in the middle, the camera can be tricked though (like if your inside and pointing the camera at someone infront of a window the camera will more often than not say correct exposure is for outside not inside (making the person inside too dark). Learn to read the histogram, it's your best friend.

Finally, please let Metabones know we would like Canon and Nikon versions before "ALPA" and ""Contarex".. Or maybe it's just me, tell them anyway.   Also, if you could ask them why there is not yet a Nikon F version to NEX adapter yet? Or if anybody here knows? It should be able to work right?? Or won't it be available? It doesn't mention anything on the website.

Anyone using/used any of the Sony NEX cameras for video work? (NEX 5, 6 or 7.. Not FS100 or FS700) What did you think?    If anyone has got any videos to show that were shot with one of the cameras I'd really like to see it, thanks.

Is it relatively safe hacking a GH2? I have never really heard of anyone having any trouble, and people seem to swap hacks pretty easily.. Unlike Magic Lantern which I'v heard and even seen errors/camera lockups (even when a CF wasn't in with ML) and that was the "stable" version.

  I don't have an Olympus but I know there is a trick you can do that allows an effect similar to peaking, you have to shoot in .jpg and RAW though and you use some specific filters that react like focus peaking.. You shoot in .jpg and RAW so that you can get a clean RAW file without the filters and you discard the .jpgs.

Thoughts on E mount lenses? For someone (maybe me) who plans on upgrading to a Sony video camera down the track would E mount lenses be a good investment?   Zeiss just released the new E mount Touit E mount lenses which look pretty nice.. But they are somewhat expensive would it be better to just buy and adapt ZF.2's?    What about Sony a mount lenses? There is a few nice ones, would those be any good for adapting to Sony video cameras? Anyone got experience using alpha lenses on something like an FS100 or FS700? I know Sony make an adapter themselves that allow you to adapt and control alpha lenses but does it have any limitations?   What about the new mount Sony are using on the F5 and F55? Is that E and Alpha mount compatible or is that a whole new mount for their video cameras that you won't be able to properly utilize E/alpha lenses on?   Side question, does anyone have experience using NEX cameras for video work? Just curious as to how they perform, thanks.     "0.2 36+9-" My dog rolled on my laptop and wrote that, she is fat.

Mine works with my GH3 .mov files perfectly.

Pretty sexy

Is GH3 hackable?

I'm really in love with the body design, wouldbang/10.

The 17-55 won't work with a speed booster anyway since it's not an EF lens (it's EF-S) not sure what type the Tokina is but even so the m4/3 Speed Booster has been pushed back to the second half of 2013 and that's not even for the EF version.. So even if you did keep the Tokina you could possibly be waiting till next year to even be able to use it (unless you buy a reg adapter but then you lose the wide end).   I don't know what the Tokina sells for but I have an idea of what the 17-55 is worth new (don't know resale value) but generally they don't drop in price too much as long as it's in good condition.. You could sell the 17-55 and pick something like the 12-35 f/2.8 OIS from Panasonic for I think about $1200 which means you might only have to add a few hundred on-top of what you get for the 17-55.. Or you could look into other lenses be them Panasonic/Olympus or older lenses that will adapt now with a regular adapter and a Speed Booster when it's available (Like Nikkor AI-S).   From the Metabones website.   We apologize but the m4/3 schedule is slipping. Manual focus lenses such as Nikon, Leica R, Contax C/Y, Contarex, ALPA and Rollei will be supported in the second half of 2013. Canon EF lens (but not EF-S) support is planned in the future, but we do not have an estimated date yet.

Im curious as to why the adapter has to be a vari ND.. Could he leave the element out of the mount and keep 3 different strength drop down NDs in the space above??

Why not buy used? It dropped to $500 just before the GH3 came out, the only atores who have it new are over charging. I don't know a lot about the GH1 i think it only does interlaced im not 100% sure though. Whichever camera you buy if you're going to go about it somewhat seriously (depending on what you are shooting) you may still need an audio solution, tripod etc.. And if home movies is what you're mainly going to be shooting ad Don't have much interest in shooting anything else then a camcorder or Sony DSLR might be better for you anyway if you want/need features like AF (Sony DSLT's have pretty decent AF) you may drop1k on a BMPCC cant get possibly the best raw IQ from the camera but be frustrated by what it lacks.

I used a Sony a77 for a while.. I eventually sold it though. I know some other guys using a77's and love them. This is my opinion (and I am not one of the more experienced members) I just didn't like the look of the footage and I hated that I really disliked AVCHD, it was both inconvenient and I found it awkward to grade so I never really bothered with it tbh. You might have a totally different experience, and there's a good thread on here with people making videos and grading on an RX100.   I used a hacked GH2 for a bit and loved it (it wasn't mine, a friend who upgraded lent it to me to try out) and I eventually bought a GH3.. I LOVE m4/3, IMO the footage is much MUCH better the GH3 records into .mov files which I also love as they are far more convenient to use and I think it works much better for me in post.    Aside from that, M4/3 in general is pretty great, the video quality is pretty much unmatched (maybe it will be by the BMPCC) but still it's amazing quality. You also have access to really really great m4/3 lenses that range from extremely affordable to affordable (nothing is overly expensive compared to the camera bodies) and you have great options from all companies that are making lenses for the m4/3 mount (primarily, Olympus, Panasonic/Leica, Voigtlander) not only that though because it's m4/3 you can basically adapt anything which most people do especially for video, you can find lenses to adapt that are extremely affordable $50 to extremely expensive since pretty much anything goes.    Since you don't have a ton of money, I'd look at a GH2 as opposed to the BMPCC, in terms of image quality alone the BMPCC will probably outdo both the GH2 and GH3 but a hacked GH2 is still popular because of what it can do for how much it costs.   Watch this, a camera shootout between the original BMCC (the BMPCC is supposed to have similar IQ but 1080P instead of 2.5k and not RAW) an FS100, 5D3, VG900 (similar to Sony a99, a77 etc) and a GH2 and GH3 (GH3 is in ALL-I format which doesn't actually deliver it's best looking footage)   http://vimeo.com/53821829

I thought BMCC only had 24, 25 and 30p options? How do they get that slightly slower motion in some of the shots?

Anyone know some good sites to get some good quality royalty-free music? Thanks.

Neither is 60p yet none of the blackmagic cameras have it.

I'v been needing an Audio recorder.. I'v been looking at the Tascam DR-100MkII but that Zoom H^ looks pretty beast, being able to switch between mic options (shotgun etc) would be a huge bonus for me. 

Anywhere to see the ad? Sounds cool.

I'v decided to buy a second camera to my GH3 for shooting interviews.. I'm not sure whether I should buy another GH3 or a Black Magic Pocket Camera (I had only a few days ago decided not to buy a pocket cam, but after shooting an interview today I'v decided a 2nd camera would be good to have making BMPCC an option again)..   It will probably be hard to say how a GH3 and BMPCC footage would match however, I wonder what experiences others have had mixing camera footage? If I buy another GH3 I will get identical footage but if I buy the BMPCC I will have a camera that would work with a BMCC when I upgrade to one of those down the track.   How different could the footage really be? Would it be that difficult to get a close enough looking image to pass without it being noticeably different?   The BMPCC will also use all my Panasonic lenses so no worries there, it's also slightly cheaper.   Thanks.    

Your shutter speed should always be as close to double your fps as possible. If shooting 50p use 1/100th if using 25p use 1/50th and you will get the same motion blur for both files.. It also gives the "cinematic" look.   I say as close as possible since if you're shooting 24p there is no 1/48th (unless you have a hacked 5D2 or GH2?) which is why you also choose 1/50th for 24fps (some people use 1/40th).

GH3

I don't even get why they don't just make them global cams.. If it has something to do with taxing or something they should offer the other rates as a firmware download or something.