Tito Ferradans

That's not a "bug", it's how that particular method for focusing anamorphics works. It's how the original cinemascope lenses, by Henri Chrétien, worked. It makes for lighter designs a lot of the time, and less glass elements, but has the downside of lowering your squeeze factor as you focus closer. It happens with ALL double focus systems. 🙂

No, he didn't. Would you care to explain the "bug" in your own words?

I'm opening up the 35mm live tomorrow on my channel. 11am PST. Join me and laugh as I struggle! 🙂 www.youtube.com/anamorphiconabudget

but the 35mm has no Fuji mount

My review is coming up soooon. www.youtube.com/anamorphiconabudget

Hey Jamie, I'm glad the chart helped! That's a pretty specific question. If you want more details, you can send it at www.tferradans.com/askme . Otherwise, yes, they would work on both cameras, with different limitations.

His note is not only about diopters, but the oval disks and anamorfakes. If you want more info on how to recreate the anamorphic look without anamorphic glass, I wrote an entire guide about it. www.anamorfakeit.com

Hey guys, I started livestreaming on my channel - anamorphic on a budget, you're not familiar - and I'm doing a Helios 44 anamorfake next Wednesday at 11:30am PST. I'm giving away the resulting mod at the end of the process to someone in the stream, so there's a chance you can walk away with a fresh lens on the way. I'd love to see a bunch of you there. I'm answering questions there too, so if you got something to ask, that's a good chance!

I'm trying to shoot my tests with the rehoused Helios today so I can put the video up next weekend! Subscribe to the channel if you haven't yet! http://www.youtube.com/tferradans Right on point, my friend.

I really wanted to like this video! The opening is super strong and the visuals are very nice. But as a lens review, he talks so little of it and has so little footage using it, it's disappointing. Lots of buildings and upshots of town that don't show any bokeh or the parallax he talked so much about. Plus that "Blade Runner" grade ain't cool. Am I going crazy here, or is that how you feel too?

If you could post screenshots, things would be easier to understand! I do a lot of AE and I don't remember having an issue with this template. Also, VashiMorphic is cool, but I have a lot more post tutorials in my guide: www.anamorfakeit.com

Thank you! 😄 I like the Samyang because they're much more neutral than the Ironglass and in the end you might end up spending way less plus having full control over the mods. There's also Contax, or even a Russian set, but the Samyangs are guaranteed to work fine with your clients. Check out www.anamorfakeit.com for more info and samples and a guide!

Series 9 are unthreaded 86mm, so maybe you can get some wiggle room there? They are usually cheap enough that you could order just for trying, and they have +0.5. If you wanna be extra safe - and extra large - 4.5" and 138mm also exist, or look for the elusive +0.8 4x4 I found once. I'm a bit skeptical and would only believe after seeing results and comparisons...

I'm a big advocate of faking it. Get a spare samyang set and install fakes on all the lenses. Done, focus super quick, big aperture, sharp images. Works fine with gimbals. Boom. Another option is to get the Sirui 50/1.8 and be creative about simulating other focal lengths with it. I have a video about the subject coming up in a few weeks.

50mm is pretty long and it should be ok if you're shooting S35 - unless you're pushing the limits. My calculator has a tab for diopters. It's simple math, but getting min focus by hand can be mildly annoying .Hahahahaha! Good point. I guess it's a creative choice. Personally I'd go for the "it needs all the help it can get", but depending on the project you can easily get away with it being blown to smudges.

The Rapido seems good. I haven't tried it yet, or heard from anyone that got it. I have two sets of Vivitars (86 and 52), and had the 95mm too. They all suffer the same issues around the corners, especially past the +1. You can kind of see that in the video, the +4 and +10 shots definitely don't feel in focus. The DOF is too thin and it's virtually impossible to get anything. You really have to stop the lenses down.

I got one coming in tomorrow and a review coming up soon-ish.

There are several sizes of Focars, so be careful to get the 95mm version, and not the small ones - which are cheap. As far as I know they are NOT doublets nor fractionals. I once managed to grab a 4x4 +0.8 Tiffen diopter but I haven't seen any other mentions of it since then. Another option is to get Tiffen/Schneider 4.5" (114mm) or 138mm diopters. These are plentiful and can be found for cheap when used. There's a +0.5 and a set of two or three will still be cheaper than the LOMO crazy diopters anywhere else. These Tiffen or Schneider have pretty neutral coatings so they don't impart any character on the lenses behind them. Another advantage of the extra-large size is that you'll avoid most of the edge areas where quality drops the most. You'll have to put on your 3d modeler hat and cobble together a holder for them though, since they're not threaded.

I heard my name, so I here I am! I have never used the Focars, but their price is a bit unrealistic. They're +1 and +2 (A and B respectively). What I have experienced using cheaper diopters though is severe degradation of the image towards the edges. It's harder to see with the weakest +1, but if you keep your eyes peeled, you should be able to notice it. I noticed it while shooting tests for the Vazen 40mm, Sirui and other more recent tests. Regardless of brand, it's still super hard to find a huge fractional diopter...

Hey y'all! After a long time playing and testing, I made a flowchart that guides you through the process of buying scopes. This is mainly aimed at beginners, but I'm hoping it can at least be fun for experienced shooters too. I'd love to hear your thoughts! http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=15998 Thanks!

Nope, try doing the mod. I know it's not too hard. I just never had a chance to do it. If you manage to film the process, I can even make a video for the channel!

The Isco 2000 is not focused to infinity by default so it requires modding. I sold all of my Isco 2000's before single focus solutions were a thing, so I never tried it.

The old aivascope was tiny. You're now looking at the new one.

http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7282 Here's some info on the price/quality variance

Any Isco Ultra Star will do. Just make sure you're getting the anamorphic block and not the spherical projection lens.