Tito Ferradans

My Contax Zeiss lenses love Iscoramas, The 50 and 85 make some of the most beautiful images I got out of Iscos so far. I used them for the tests in this video and in the Isco 36 review, which will come up mid-november. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfeIZk0zlfY

Sorry man, this one came with it, it fit like a glove and had no hints of who manufactured it... Ended up selling it along the lens too. The quality reminded me of Redstan, but I never got to ask.

Enjoy, guys! Russian lenses are amazing and, after a while you end up forgetting how sharp glass can be (I picked up a Contax Zeiss set earlier this year and, oh man! these are razor sharp when compared to the Russians), which is also a great rediscovery. I've grown my set to include others that won't play along with anamorphics, such as the Mir 10A, which is 28mm f/3.5 and the Mir 20M, which is an amazing 20mm f/3.5. If you're looking for a faster alternative for the Mir 1B, the Mir 24N is a 35mm f/2.0, but the flares are considerably different from the rest (Helios and Jupiter). I also got a Tair 3, which is 300mm, but haven't tested it with any scopes yet. hahahah.

I'll get to that soon! I think Rich has a bunch of clips using the FlareFactory and the Century 1.33, which is kind of what you're looking for!

Hey man! I have a set like that and I picked them all with m42 mounts since m42 to EF is a very cheap and common adapter. The longer focal length to match the set is the Tair 11A, 135mm f/2.8, 20 aperture blades, beautiful results. They have a few different versions but I think just the Helios is numbered (the one everyone loves is the 44-2). About the Jupiter 9 and Mir 1B, I've read somewhere that the ones with "finger cuts" ( http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3144/jupiter9.jpg ) in the focus ring have less coatings, while the regular, round ones ( http://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/data/83/IMGP3762_2.jpg ) are less prone to flaring. These versions also have preset aperture, which makes them naturally declicked, while more modern versions have clicked stops (the Helios 44 for sure, since I had a few).

ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - FLARE FILTER. http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8061 ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - ANAMORFAKING THE HELIOS 44. http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8142 A few DIY for those who don't want to spend a ton of money but still love the look.

It was the solution used by Iscoramas, so it's not something that hasn't been used before, it's something that was always a great hit, but protected by patent laws. Plus, the random variable diopters you'll find on ebay ought to be waaaay to strong for what you need. Usually, people who want diopters don't like them low powered, that's just an anamorphic requirement. I'd suggest you get a cheap +0.5 (there are some for $50 on ebay, if I remember it right), and a regular chinese kit (+1, +2, +4) of 72mm diameter. That will give you freedom enough to play. Also, you're gonna need to attach threads to the front of your Isco 2000. I haven't shot this video yet, but the process is SO SIMPLE that you can get it from my Instagram. Just tape a 67-72mm step ring, the 67mm side will be already pretty close to the diameter of the Isco 2000.

The MkII is considerably bigger and heavier than the MkI. Indeed, not a lens for character, but still has faint anamorphic flares and subtle oval bokeh. I got mine after having a pre36. Then I got a 42 and sold my 54. I mean, what's the point of having a 54 anyway? hahaha

Hans already posted my review. This is an Isco 54 body, with 1.33x stretch. It's indeed harder to find than the Isco 54. I would call it an Iscorama, it works the exact same way, with the same amazing performance.

I'm definitely doing this edge blackening on the next few days! Great thread, these DIY things are awesome and I miss them more in our community. Thanks for sharing, James!

Did you know the reason they started doing these lenses was exactly this? To achieve a more pronunced oval bokeh using 1.33x anamorphics? My Helios arrived yesterday and I already figured how to open it, now i just need to make some apertures. It sucks that I don't know the name of the plastic or metal I need, but I'll sort this out during the weekend. hahaah

I'll be shooting something like this, with the 5D3 this week, if the weather helps. for other reviews so far, youtube.com/tferradans

We decided to remove the Elmoscope II because there was almost no real information about it except for the picture. About the Kowa, the 8Z and the B&H are definitely not the same. The Bell & Howell isn't Prominar labeled and it has a very different body design, size and weight. Maybe the optics are the same, but the housing is very different.

You rock, man!

Nice!

ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - CENTURY OPTICS WS-13. http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=7723 ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - PANASONIC LA7200.http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=7877 ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - PANASONIC LA7200 FIX WITH +0.25 DIOPTER - PART 1. http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=7868 ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - PANASONIC LA7200 FIX WITH +0.25 DIOPTER - PART 2. http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=7869 ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - PLANS FOR THE FUTURE.http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=8031 ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - ISCO-OPTIC 16:9 VIDEO ATTACHMENT I.http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=7901

This is one of the best threads here in a very long time. Today I was able to remove the projection lens from the anamorphic and rotate the focus ring. The screws were hidden by the original paint, it seems no one had ever opened this one yet. Bold, if I don't figure everything out from the posts here I'll message you about a few bits and pieces, ok? Thanks a lot to Rich as well, for the initial kick on the explanations and QuickHitRecord for testing it out in the first place!

So, I got this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/131564846539?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT And I couldn't remove the spherical part of it. I've applied a lot of strength trying to unscrew it and got ZERO movement. The focus ring is also locked, seems like a screw, but I didn't look too much into it. Any suggestions on how to get the anamorphic out? It's also super heavy due to the projection lens.

I was about to write the exact same thing, but then you said it all and saved me the trouble of typing. I don't dread the ML workflow, it's elaborate, yeah, but if you got someone on set to download the cards, extracting the dngs and playing them in premiere takes very little time. But, yeah, I know clients, and I'm not sure if I'd choose that either.

about how diopters work. pretty easy read and simple math!

Bold, not sure if you're already happy with what you got, but my week's review is about this lens. Check it at http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7723

now I feel tempted to go with the anamorphic macro, but gotta decide a practical approach first. I'm not one to like strong lights.

This thread went from 'weird' to 'absolute awesomeness' in two posts. Art V., you're my new idol. Anamorphic macro is definitely something I'm hearing (AND SEEING!!!!) for the first time. The quality of the work as well as your patience to go into the details of the explanations already won my respect. Great stuff, man!

Dude, I'm planning a 1.33 shootout (Century Optics, Century WS13, Panasonic and Isco 1.33) this weekend, not sure yet of how it's gonna go down. Can I borrow your SLR Magic to complete the team, please? I can let you have my Rectilux in the meanwhile and then we exchange back. How does that sound to you? I'm sending you my phone through PM. Get in touch!

damn, man! you forced my hand! I had an eye in that for a while, thinking if I would go deep into that mod project, and now I had to get it. hahaha. Well, I'm gonna be following your steps pretty close, please keep me updated on your findings, will you?