Tito Ferradans

huge update with almost all the missing chapters. Two more to go!

Two cine modded iscoramas on eBay at the same time? Wow! Hahaha

Spend some good flight time from Vancouver to Brazil translating some more chapters. Two thirds done, most of my lens research done too. Cosimo, I haven't forgotten it, just don't have time at the moment. hehehe. I'm focusing on getting this one done first, then catch up with the stuff I missed.

updated with cine lenses and double focus! one third of the work is done. :)

And now Cosimo is right! I'd say no more than $500, which is pretty close.

PLEASE don't spend a thousand bucks on this lens. EVER.

updated with Iscoramas and focus through adapters.

just got an Isco 42, for a fairly high price. Haven't seen one but this in a long, long time. Was anyone here among the bidders too? I'm considering selling my 54 to cover some of the damage to my bank account...

dahlfors, I will, just need to get some time to do it. hehehe I know there is a lot of reading to do, and probably some considerable updates to this work. I've seen their first videos and seems really interesting. :)

Ok, the tokina +0.4 is also called AT-X, and it's much thicker than the 0.5 quick pictures to look at: http://www.redstan.com/image/cache/data/_1040443-1000x1000.JPG '> did this help? :)

Man, gotta have some more time to write a proper reply. Hang on, by the end of the week at the most! You wanna know their difference visually? The 0.5 is a single element diopter, which means it is much thinner than the 0.4 doublet, which means that the 0.4 improves your image quality considerably while the 0.5 just changes your focus distances.

Thanks, guys! :D I've updated the post with the beginning of chapter 3 and added to the list all the items that are coming up when it's fully translated.

One chapter at a time, I'm translating to english my graduation work which is 90% focused on anamorphics. I hope it brings some light onto common questions as well as works as a good follow-up read after the original EOSHD Anamorphic's Shooter Guide. I'll keep updating the links to each chapter on this post, please feel free to comment and correct me along the way. There are 22 chapters/topics and roughly a hundred pages. WHO AM I AND WHAT IS THIS ABOUT? http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7166 INTRODUCTIONhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7174 LENS RESEARCHhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7195 a ) FOCUS THROUGH (1.33x)http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7204b ) ISCORAMAS (1.5x)http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7225c ) DOUBLE FOCUS (2x)http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7235d ) CINE LENSES (2x)http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7260e ) DAMAGE AND SERVICINGhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7278f ) DIOPTERS AND CLOSE UPShttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7282g ) LENS-YCLOPEDIAhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7280h ) FAKING THE LOOKhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7283 MAGICLANTERN RAWhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7304 a ) CUSTOM CROPMARKShttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7305 ZONA SSPhttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7310 a ) LOMO: EPISODE 01http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7311b ) ISCORAMAS: EPISODE 02http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7317 THE PROCESShttp://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7318 a ) CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7319b ) ON SET PREVIEW http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7320c ) WORKFLOW CONCLUSIONBIBLIOGRAPHY

Thanks guys, it's good to be back! hahaha :) Found this video, by Kostas He sold this lens about 18 months for something near EUR 6k, which, IMO, is a total ripoff, like those $6k Iscoramas. This lens is originally a projector lens. It's a 16:9 video attachment for watching widescreen movies on 4:3 systems, almost like you said, dahlfors. It is a 1.3x adapter. The good version (the one I have here) is the Mark I. Later ISCO released a Mk II and III, which are waaay bigger and heavier (bulkier, I'd say), so they're no good for most of us, even though every once in a while they pop on ebay for huge amounts of money. (here's a look at Mk III, or >Mk II here on EOSHD)

thread updated with "why do I need low powered diopters" and "squeeze changes"

Every time I open this forum, I see new threads asking questions about diopters and close ups, and how they work, or why some are more valuable than others. Would it be too arrogant of me to ask for this thread to be pinned? :P The first post answers 99% of all other threads questions, and it's always better to have centralized information instead of roaming around dozens of threads looking for one specific reply.

Fujinon 8072, +1.25 diopter. I own one of these, and I'm ALMOST sure its a doublet. As the seller states, usually go for a couple hundred bucks (a bit overstated, not that much, really), but this price is very nice. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221398337515

Long time no see, guys! I've moved to Vancouver six months ago to attend a VFX intensive course (which isn't over, by the way), and got the lens in a stroke of luck for a decent price, about the same time I moved here. Problem was I had sold my Isco 54 a while back and had no clamp or step rings to make it work. Believe me or not, took me six months to dig some time and go out hunting a decent priced step ring (a guy tried to sell me a 49-67mm for 36 bucks!). The relevant part is I'm able to run tests with it on the following weeks, I believe. I also got a regular Isco 54, and a 36 VD for comparisons. At a first glance, the 16:9 Attachment felt sharper than the 54 and, when shooting 16:9, you go straight to 2.4:1 cinemascope which is a more familiar aspect ratio for a lot of people. More on the lens body, it weights about the same as the 54, but has nice rubber rings for better grip and focus feels more natural than the 54 too (for me, the 54 focus ring is too light, almost sliding out of control). The size is exactly the same as the 54, rear thread is 72mm and front is 95mm. Minimum focus is a tad closer than the default 2m, even though the closest focus mark on the ring says 2m. I'm using a 5D3 for testing, and the lens is free of any vignetting when paired with an Helios 44 (58mm), which unfortunately doesn't happen for the Mir 1B (37mm), that shows a lot of vignette (I wouldn't even call it vignetting, actually, because it takes almost half the frame). It's not a common lens and there isn't much (almost none) information about it on the web, so lets fill this gap. Are there any specific tests or questions you guys want me to try and answer?

Cheap macro filters are as good as regular diopters so, yes, they are usable. This whole thread is focused on them, as achromatics are still rare. To avoid corner distortion, get the biggest size you can! That was easy. hahaha :D Wow, I looked for something like that forever. The only weird thing about the link is that it doesn't show the ring that is supposed to hold the 4 1/2 inch filter in place, preventing it from falling off. Did you contact the seller? :) I did develop a DIY solution for this exact problem. Unfortunately I sold it with my Isco54, a couple months back. Mainly, what I did was replicate the way Series 9 filter holders work, but with a much bigger size. This ebay link looks much better, thinner and stronger than mine, though. hahaha I followed the same path, but got stuck trying to find the adapter ring. I wouldn't go with the reverse size. That way, your filters will be facing the wrong way, and performance is much lower. Some might not even fit or work if inversed. Be careful. In the end, I made my own piece, for attaching 105mm filters, and worked up/down from there. '>

Sorry for the delay, buddy! The math is exactly the same as for regular diopters, they produce much higher quality images! I've used the 4 1/2 inches series, by Schneider, as well as Series 9, and results were pretty good. Very little edge blurring. So I'd guess the 138mm doesn't do much difference. Due to it's huge size, you might even get rid of the bad looking areas, since they're always on the edge of the glass. :D Comurit, the diopters we use for anamorphics are the very same used for macro stuff, so if they work on your Sankor, you're good. The downside of these kits is they usually have default +1, +2, +4 filters. The +1 is pretty handy for nice close ups, but the +2 and +4 are so extreme they're very rarely used. A good thing would be to get a +0.5, which has a lower magnifying power and bring your focus range just a touch closer than the anamorphic's limit. by the way, pretty shot with the close up. :) Not exactly cheap, but cheaper than the prices they had a couple months back. It was impossible to find anything cheaper than $450. Good to see the hype is wearing off.

between steps 3 and 4, change the project setting to 32bpc, instead of 8 (which is default in AE). It will change the way AE applies any further color correction (like Levels, Curves, or whatever). Ctrl + Alt + Shift + K, or go in the "File" menu, or just click on the 8bpc on the bottom of the Project tab. :)

Thanks! :D

Precisely!

I have 5 (well, 4 now, since I sold one) KB, and had problems with some of them. Their guys told me to format them using a USB3 reader, on a USB3 port, and they should come back to normal. And it did work, flawlessly, in more than one occasion. None of mine had speed issues, though. So I can't advise you on that matter. Lexars are way too expensive.

Pretty much agree with everything said. My workflow is a little different (I don't get along with Davinci), but until this point, I'd say the same. Yes, buy more. Get Komputerbays, they're MUCH cheaper, but beware because some are bad and won't keep up the required speed. If you come across a particularly bad translated part, tell me about it, and I'll try to beat google translator on the job. hahaha. :) I was supposed to translate this whole thing, but I'm lacking the patience to go through 100 pages. hehe