Tito Ferradans

On the telephoto end, it goes way worse than wide-angles. Anything longer than 50mm on a 5D3 is unusable faster than f/5.6-8.   Although, with diopters, it produces great images with telephoto lenses. +1 diopter, Century and Jupiter 9 (at f/2.8)  

Actually I sold it to a guy from DVXUser, in NYC, then he got the lens serviced and put it into a pelican, and traded with another guy, which is the seller on ebay. :P He didn't even ask me if he could use the photos. hehehe

I absolutely don't plan cutting them! hahaha! Didn't want a mattebox either, since it's a huge piece of gear. I'll try to find some threaded adapters, or make one.   Thanks for the ideas!

Hypergonar is SOLD! Just Century remaining.

I use a XX-72mm (mostly 52-72), and a 72mm UV, because the la7200 thread is sort of short/hard to reach.   But when the taking lens has a larger filter diameter, I use just one ring. On the Canon 16-35mm, for example, 82mm thread, just a 82-72mm ring.   On a T2i, it goes all the way to 16 without vignetting, on the 5D, black borders start to show at 28mm.

So, I came across a big lot of 4.5" filters, including a few close ups, and bought them, since they're huge, but now I cant figure a safe, decent way to mount them in front of a lens!   Anyone has experience with this? Maybe fitting them to threaded rings? Thanks!

hahaha, I'm leaving today, back to Brazil! I'm at the JFK at the moment! :P Enjoy your time, Seb, it's a great city!

Well, I didn't have much o a problem disassembling mine - I opened up the front, instead of the normal - rear - way. Just unscrew the thing with the lens name (in my case, the 44-m-4), any pointy thing will fit into those holes, and then twist it off like a filter.   Below it, there is the main optical block. The best part about it is that it comes off in one piece. No messing with the glass. It just screws off as well (here is where I think Rich has the advantage, modifying the whole thing). Anyway, behind it, you can reach the aperture blades. I used a acrylic disc with a f/4 (aproximate) oval, lasercut. Tested the f/2.8 as well, but DOF is too shallow.   As the disc isn't exactly as thin as it needs, you may want to make it thinner with sandpaper. From 3mm, mine got to 1mm. Then, rescrew the optical part, and test it on camera - to check if properly aligned. If yes, great, close it all up, putting in the front ring. Otherwise, keep doing it until perfect (took me a few attempts).   Richard, I'm very curious about this filter. I tried many different line thicknesses (does this word exist?) and none convinced me. Cinemorph either. :(

Hey Ignotus,   I've made one of these myself, guided by Amir - the guy who posted the original video on vimeo - and it's quite simple, isn't it? I tried multiple combinations of flare filter, but none worked as I wanted, so, I'm sticking with a Century in front of it. hahaha. The hardest part, actually is to place the oval in the correct orientation, as misplacing it produces a rotated bokeh (somewhat like the Cinemorph filter, when not aligned properly)   The biggest problem I see when using a line, or similar, in front of the lens is that the main flare is, indeed, horizontal, but it's quite easy to see it as a faded column of glow around the frame, the same width as the thin (central) part of it. I considered picking up a real flare filter, but they're out of my current $ range. :(   Also, there are other lenses that can be modified in the same, easy, way, at various focal lengths. I've got a 29mm, and I'm still on the hunt for a 135.   Andy, buy a cheap helios and do it yourself! I can give you some tips on the process. :D

LOMO and Optex are SOLD!   Century and Hypergonar remaining.

I just got one of these, Rich! the delivery should take a while, though. :( I think it doesn't cover the FF sensor. At least, with the anamorphic attachment, I'm SURE it doesn't, as clearly stated on the comments of this video: https://vimeo.com/19643903   The sides have to be cropped out, as they're not covered. Anyway, if you go APS-C, it does work perfectly. :D 

Although, sometimes you get those lifetime-chances on ebay as well! More than once I've seen very expensive lenses sold cheap due to seller's lack of info or research. For example, I've paid $1400 for an Isco-54. Mostly, I see them go for more than $3k.   These occasions only reinforce the addiction to constantly check Saved Searches. :P

I think what comes almost as wide as LA7200, and way easier to put diopters in front for close ups, wide apertures and longer lenses would be Optex, or Century, right?

Wow, great link! Thanks! (this thing flares so beautifully!). I actually had already seen the video a few months ago (and their close up tests too), but didn't remember at all. By that time, I never thought of buying such an expensive lens. hahaha   It's decided then: if I'm shooting 2.4:1, 5D, if 3.56:1, T2i. :P   I'm curious about this precious lens of your friend! What's the model? hahahaha   Hope you get better soon! (it's impressive how ebay is really addictive)

+1!

Ouch. Good luck to him!   I've always prefered primes, but it gets tiring sometime, swapping lenses and anamorphics from shot to shot. I hope the Lomo makes me a little lazy too. hahahahaha.   Do you have an idea of how long the lens stays with him? (I've asked him that today, but I don't know when he'll answer, and you're frequently online, so... ahahahaha)

Yeah, very important detail, the cap! I'll ask the seller to wrap something in front of it, if the original has been lost. I got mine made here, will make one for this as well. hahahaha.   Ouch! Sad to hear this story! It's always painful to know about gear getting damaged. :(   Olex replied to my mail very quickly! He also told me that he has tested the lens with the 2x EF extender, and it gives great results, although some light is lost. What I thought about is: "this is a great solution for the porthole possibility!". hahahaha. The extender literally delivers a bigger image than the sensor, hence the increase in focal range! (I can sure lose some light on the 5D, no problem!)   Anyways, if nothing of this works, I'll sure keep it on the T2i. hahaha

If one's willing to pay $300 for a lens cap, I wonder the value of the lens! Hahahaha Is your copy the very same as mine? I can get it for around US$50 here and ship it, if you like.

Hahaha, I had it made on a shoe shop. The guy did it in 40 minutes, and it's way more stylish than the original ones. hahahaha

When I started into the anamorphic experience, I was quite in a rush and ended up getting more lenses than I could actually use, so, in order to make them useful to someone and not only sit in my shelf, I'm letting them go. I modded them a bit, to make them easier to work with, and everything is described.   Ended up upgrading the set of the Century, and after a long mental fight, decided to let the Kowa go to someone else's happy home. Both lenses come with a lot of extras to avoid any more shopping to get them working. After they arrive, you're ready to go and shoot whatever you want. I accept Paypal, the taxes are on me! PM me, or send me an email: ferradans@gmail.com 1 - Century Optics Bayo for GL1. (1.33x stretch, focus through) This was originally a bayo mount, unable to use with our loved threaded lenses. I got a step up ring "stuck" into the bayo slot, so it's transformed into a 52mm mount and very very safe. It's not a permanent mod. The lens can be switched back to bayo if you want, just unscrew the back and remove the step-up ring. The front element has a few cleaning marks in one of the borders, but they don't affect the image. It comes with front and rear caps. I also adapted a 77mm thread on the front - kind of rude, but it's safe and can be removed - for attaching filters/diopters. I'm providing a pair of very rare Spiratone 77mm diopters, with low strenght: +0.25 and +0.5. This combination of low strength and big size is very valuable when working with anamorphics. Also included is a Series 9 77mm adapter and retaining ring, +1 and +3 Series 9 diopters (in pouches), and, finally, a 77-62mm step down ring for the Sigma +1.6 Achromatic diopter - in original jewel case. Achromatic diopters have much higher image quality, therefore, are also greatly seeked by anamorphic shooters.   And, when you though there was nothing more that could possibly fit here, I'm putting in two extra "anamorphized" primes. A Helios 44 58mm with f/4 fixed oval aperture, and a Pentacon 29mm f/4 fixed oval aperture as well. Both with M42 to EF adapters, M42 rear caps and front caps. The Pentacon comes with a rubber hood and a step-down ring 55-52mm to allow use with the Century. Both lenses have pouches. US$1300 + shipping Century photos http://www.eoshd.com...ry-optics-bayo/   Anamorphized lenses photos http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/album/41-anamorphized-lenses/ 2 - Kowa Bell and Howell (2x stretch, double focus) Sadly, I'm letting this wonderful lens go. It also comes with everything you need to start shooting. Lens in great shape, no scratches, no fungus, nothing. Crystal clear glass. Very little dust inside, which is common for a lens this old. I bought it a few months ago, when I was starting into anamorphics and now will have to let it go, because I can't make good use of double focus, and gotta make room for the LOMO. This kit includes the original front and read caps, as well as the original lens pouch, but also Redstan front and rear clamps (62mm rear, with a locking ring that won't let the lens fall while you align it, 72mm front) and extra front and rear caps for the clamps, to keep the lens ready to shoot, and safe, at all times. I'll also include a lot of step up and down rings to make the clamp fit into any taking lens filter thread (49, 52, 55, 58 and 67mm). The diopters included here are a rare Tokina 72mm +0.5, in original jewel case, and four Vivitar 72mm (+1, +2, +4 and +10) in a filter pouch. US$1500 + shipping http://www.eoshd.com...wa-bell-howell/   --------------------------------------------------------   SOLD!   2 - Optex 52mm (1.33x stretch, focus through) I'd keep this one as redstan clamp fits perfectly, but I just found a 58mm rear one, so this is going out. It comes with front and rear caps, as well as the original box.  No markings, scratch or else on the glass. Absolutely top quality.   US$750   http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/album/32-optex-52mm/   3 - Hypergonar Hi-Fi 2 (2x stretch, double focus) I fell in love with the look of this lens from that Edwin Lee "Futuristic Shangai" clip - I think everyone into anamorphics has seen it. hahahah - and got it straight from france. It's quite a heavy lens and required a lot of extra gear to work properly. Following Edwin Lee's tip, I got the Velbon SPT-1 Lens Support, as well as a Canon 70-200mm lens collar, Vid-Atlantic's extra large clam and caps for front and rear elements.   The Hypergonar doesn't have a filter thread, so getting close focus with it was a nightmare. I glued a 95-86mm step-down ring reversed on the front of the lens, so anything with an 86mm thread can be attached. It comes with a regular 77mm close-up kit (+1, +2, +4) and step rings 86-77mm and 77-72mm, for easier mounting or filtering.   You just gotta attach the kit to your camera and prime and go shoot. Nothing else is required!   US$700   http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/album/29-hypergonar-hi-fi-2/   4 - Lomo Squarefront 35-NAS-4-1 with OKC 1-50-1 in OCT-18 When I got this one, I still had hope to adapt it into the 5D3. Unnecessary to say, it didn't work. The glass is in good shape, but most of the markings on the body are gone. It comes with the pairing 50mm f/2.5, and it works perfectly on other cameras. The only custom-made thing about this one is the front cap, that's brand new, since it didn't have one when I bought it. Rear cap's included as well.   US$1200   http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/album/30-lomo-squarefront-35nas4-1-with-okc1-50-1-oct18/   About shipping, I'm from Brazil, and shipping costs here are a bit random. FedEx tends to be way more expensive than regular mail, so, I need to check before saying anything about it for sure.   On the other hand, I'll be in the U.S. from March 18 to 25, and can ship the lenses from NY if any buyer from the U.S. gets interested. This will make shipping a lot faster and cheaper as well. :D

Hahaha! It just popped on ebay this morning (morning in Brazil), it wasn't exactly a bargain, but it was way cheaper than I had ever seen. Paid US$2800 for the kit. I've seen the diopters alone sell for more than half of that!, so, even if I don't like the results, I can sell for some profit. :P   I already own another squarefront, but decided to sell it since it's impossible to adapt it into the 5D3. The only 2x stretch double-focus I can stand is Kowa's, since the results are gorgeous! I kept looking for the 37-140 as it has a great range, as well as singe focus. 2x stretch is super-awesome. (I wish I could find one of those Isco Centavisions with single focus. hahahaha)   About the porthole, I had a Tokina 11-16. Worked perfectly on the t2i. On the 5D3, 11mm couldn't cover the sensor, but from 14mm on, it did a great job. :D

Thanks a lot for the info, EpicFanBoy!   Yes, it does have the anamorphic squarefront, as well as two diopters and some other extras. Good to know it should be easy to mod.   I'll see how this porthole thing works. I think it'll cover the whole sensor past some focal ranges, right? (like an EF-S mounted on full-frame). Otherwise, I'll just stick it into a T2i!   I've emailed Viktor and Olex, as the lens is in Lithuania and I live in Brazil. It's easier from a package coming from Russia to arrive without customs taxes than one from US or UK. :P

I'm a bit new into anamorphics, and work with a 5d3 as well. My first lens was the Kowa B&H. Dual focus is really challenging at the beginning, but you get the hang of it after a while. You'll also need double focus for vid-atlantic's iscos.   I can't tell for sure about how easy will be to find a Bell and Howell lately, since they vanished from eBay... This made the prices increase as well.   As for vignetting, anything above 85mm is clear (it gives you the field of view around 45mm, to be accurate). It is possible to use it with a helios (58mm), but, I'd say the distortion here is MUCH worse than any vignetting.   A good (and cheaper, usually) option is the Sankor 16-D.

I'll stick with Bioskop's tips. I do have the same russian set (Mir, Helios, Jupiter and Tair) and they are absolutely amazing. I got the single-coated versions, so they do flare a bit too much, but it's still pleasant. hahaha   As for the 200mm, I went with a Meyer-Gorlitz, f/4, which is also good looking, but a bit too dark for my taste. A simple lens, as well, quite easy to disassemble.   I'm curious about the mod as well. Can you give us more info on that?

I just got a Lomo 37-140mm kit and it's in OCT-18 mount. The big issue is: I use a 5D3, and they're not compatible.   Since it has two versions, I'm thinking the lens has identical optical design, just differing the mount, OCT-18 or OCT-19. Any tips on who can I contact to do this kind of conversion?   (else, if I can get it converted to, let's say, EF mount, makes things easier, since I won't be needing an adapter).   Thanks!