Tito Ferradans

Thanks a lot, guys!   I couldn't find any JB Weld here in Brazil, so decided to go with the 52-67mm step up ring. My bayonet had a little lock inside, so I had to carve up a level for it to fit in and then screw it all the way. On the first attempt, it didn't fit at all, then, i destroyed just a bit of the ring, and it almost worked, but the aligning mechanism became too hard. I got back to the ring, took off a nice aluminum chunk and voilá! Perfect.

Thanks QuickHitRecord and JohnBarlow. I've sent a message to John and will look for a local optician as well! I hope this pretty thing can be recovered. :D

Hey everyone, me again.   One more question: Century Optics' adapters keep showing up on ebay, and the prices have been rising a lot. Many of them are bayo-mount, and I don't think this many DV users are actually connecting them to GL1, or PD170. Is there a secure way to convert a bayo-anamorphic into a filter thread. for DSLR use?   I do have one of these, and noticed that a 52-58mm step-up ring fits perfectly around the rear-mount glass, but I don't think I trust glue this much...

Hey guys,   A while back, I got an Iscorama 50mm m42 off ebay. It was rather cheap (compared with today's prices) and the seller was super-nice. When the lens arrived, I found out that it was pretty banged up (the front element has way too many cleaning marks, and the rear has a few scratches), but kept using it anyway. It has been modified for closer focus, and the front part can unscrew from the rest. The guy who did the job actually made a mess on the back of the glass, and it was very oily. I was able to remove the oil, but don't know what to do regarding the marks. They're so bad that any light source produces great haze on the image, and shooting daylight is almost impossible as contrast disappears. The rotation buttons are also stiff, and from time to time I fear it may stuck in a weird angle and I won't be able to use it anymore...   I tried to take some pictures showing the problem, but don't know if they're clear enough. Notice how the front element reflects the light.     Well, as the title says, I wanted to know about repairing it. I mean, can these marks be removed? The rear element is polishable? Does the word polishable exists? etc.   I thought about Alan, and that mod that changes the lens casing, but it might be out of my budget. Anyway, HELP!   Thanks a lot! Regards from Brazil.

I want one of these things!

Yeah, the 5D3 is worth every penny! hahahaha. I have been using the alphas for it since they came out. To be really honest, I just got the camera because they said ML could run in it.   I've already used the anamorphic modes with T2is and T3is as well, without any problems from nightly builds.   I even made some cropmarks for mixing anamorphic stretches in the same project without having trouble to frame the shot, but they don't work with the LV distortion, so, if you plan to use them, will have to shoot with anamorphic mode disabled. :P

I`ve been using anamorphic preview with the 5D3 for a while now. It just lags if you add focus peaking, along with fast zebras and stuff. Otherwise, no problems at all. I've used it with 1.33x, 1.5x and 2x anamorphics.   The one thing that isn't perfect yet is the fact that it doesn't straighten the image during playback. :(

Hidalgo! The Hi-Fi 2 works as any other dual-focus system. You have to focus both lenses at the same distance to get a decent image. Mine, the focus is a bit harder to pull than a modern lens, but, it works. Good luck!

PM'd!