Scott Goldberg

To reiterate: I'm looking to make a Picture Profile that has great dynamic range, is broadcast quality safe, where it doesn't bleed on colors, least amount of noise (I notice using some Cinegamma's change the ISO to 640, which is fine) and which is best for overcast / cloudy days? (obviously with cloudy days, the dark colors can create more noise potentially in dark greens, reds, etc and I want to make sure to create a profile that lessens those issues as I had listed above).   I have the current PP's: Neutral Profile to match F3, Alister Champman's Dynamic Range setting, nLog v1.1. I'm in need of an overcast one as mentioned in the upper paragraph...   Any help is appreciated.

FS700

I'm working out my Picture Profiles for my feature and I had a few questions:   Which Cinegamma is best for cloudy days, and alongside the best Cinegamma for cloudy/overcast days, what are the best settings after selection Cinegamma for the best, least noise visuals? Obviously shooting in overcast, against darker colors like black, grays, buildings, grays, etc I'd like to have the least amount of video noise/grain, so I'd like to know what settings such as black level, gamma, knee, color mode, color level, color phase, etc are best for least to little to no noise?   I ask this because I am doing out of state shoots (8 hours away) for a documentary segment which will be on cloudy/overcast days (for that dark, brooding atmospheric feeling) next weekend and I wanted to really get the best picture profile that I can for an over-cast/cloudy day.   I will say that I like the flat profile look for color grading (most dynamic range), but perhaps there's a better option that I don't know about that someone can answer for me?

Ha ha! Seriously though, what's the closest settings or settings needed to get that?

I'm looking to use one basic PP setting for shooting. This is my "wish list" of what I'd like:     No bleeding of reds and dark colors No muddy shades of color Most dynamic range for color correction ( if needed, some shots if not many, won't need it) Little to no video noise Least aliasing Flatest profile (not essential but a plus)

Question....when I use Cinegamma 2 in my PP settings, I can go as low as 320 ISO.    Does this affect anything and if so, what? My Cinegamma 2 is part of a flat picture profile for grading, so I would think the lowest is the best, correct?

Seems that aliasing is the main culprit here in Super Slow Motion due to frame rate being high and the camera not being able to handle it, which is fine, but I wanted to get your thoughts on the do's and don't for Super Slow Motion with the FS700. I have complied a list and am curious if anyone wants to add anything:   Do's: Do shoot the following, especially in macro (based off of my test shoots so far) - the closeups seem to be the best for Super Slow Motion such as: Water from a faucet, Glasses Filled with Liquid/Bubbles both the top and the side, Blurred out of focus shots (for dreamy type of visuals and transitions).   Do know your limitations.   Dont's:   Don't shoot sharp lines, etc like the following: Shirts up close (the threads will alias), long thin hair, in-focus images against the sun (sharp images like in focus branches, greenery), sharp thin areas like wooden fences with lines, knives, building roof tops with lines, brick walls, etc.

Posted at: http://www.xdcam-user.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=1097&p=1647#p1647   "This profile is designed to get the maximum dynamic range from the camera. It gives a flat almost log type image that will need grading in most cases. Black Level +1 Gamma Cine 4 Black Gamma Range Low, Level +7 Knee Mode Manual, Manual Set: Point 105, Slope +5 Colour Mode Pro Level 8 Colour Level -2 Detail Level -7 Manual Set Off Color Phase -2 Color Depth R+2, G-1, B 0, C-1, M+2, Y 0 Detail Level -7"   -------   Curious on your thoughts of that? I'm shooting my narrative feature and I like the flat-ish look....Best for color grading?   I have another PP setting which I like as well: http://www.xdcam-user.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=1097&p=1647#p1647     "Black Level -1 Gamma Cinegamma 1 Black Gamma High, level -7 Color Mode Type ITU709 Matrix, Level +8 Color Level -4 Color Phase -2 Color depth R +1. G -1, B 0, C -1, M +2, Y 0. Detail level -5  

  ScottGoldbergProductions

https://vimeo.com/59348938   Feedback welcome. Background on the clips:     Test shoot. Two different days. The visuals are of two different class bottles at two different focuses. An LED light shines behind both of them. Shot a few weeks apart in the same location, a kitchen with ambient light only and a small portable LED. Shot with a FS700, ND filter off, 240fps Super Slow Motion at 500 shutter speed. The first shot is of the glass turning while slightly in focus. The second is of a carrot piece floating still at the top of the glass as carbonation clings to the carrot piece. Third shot is of the beer pouring into the glass with the glass in focus. Fourth shot is the sides of the glass being turned from one side to another.

The MTS files play without having to ClipWrap, etc which is great. I'm so used to FCP 7 and actually like FCP X a lot and for the fact that it's easy to use.... I just never have used hard-drives to edit and am curious about folder placements and if I should copy the full folder of the SD Card into a fold that says "TEST SHOOT CLIPS" or if I should take take the clips and put them in a folder without all of the other folders? I'm curious if anyone has set their systems for editing features with FS700 footage (ie: AVCHD/MTS files).

Come March 1st, I will be uploading AVCHD clips from my SD card. I have done a lot of test shoots on the card but there are a lot of clips I will be deleting and actually some that I am quite happy with. I am going to delete (if you think it won't mess anything up as far as the files and the numbers because the numbers would be let's say 1-200 I delete and then keep 200-205 and then deleted clips 206-255 and then use clip 256-60, etc and so on). I've read that there may be an issue with this IF my WHOLE FOLDER is not copied onto a hard-drive? So is it OK if I have let's say 20 clips in total in the folder, all different numbers (not changed, but just how they are in the order they were shot - ie: 00122, 00156, 00166, 00167, 00202 etc? Will this be OK to do or will it mess up everything if there are not a bunch of files that I have let's say, dragged to the trash can and deleted and kept the 20? I see that when I put in my SD card and my laptop (using a laptop for now, til my drives get here, to test FCP and view footage/edit clips in FCP X trial run) this pops up: BDMV > CLIPINF/PLAYLIST/STREAM, then when I click on STREAM the clips pop up. As per my question above, do I copy the AVCHD folder and put it into a new folder that says: "TEST SHOOT FOLDER"? Or do I not need to copy all of those folders within that folder? I have read horror stories of people not copying the whole thing, and them losing their clips.... This is my concern. My second question is a run through on setting up my Final Cut Pro X, with what time-line settings, frame rate, and even the "Import Media" settings that I should use for AVCHD/FS700 footage? I'm based out of the US and my main frame rate will be/is 24fps.

  The snow was extremely fast, the winds were really heavy. I'm glad the 240 fps really slowed it down. I was curious with how crazy and strong the winds were with how it would look in slow motion. 

Not sure how many other FS700 users there are, but I did some footage today based off of the New York snowstorm. Was a fun shoot (used my Picture Profile setting that included Cinegamma 2 and sharpness on -5, among many other settings, etc):   https://vimeo.com/59267257        

Posted this on PhilipBloom.net and figured I'd post here as well: In these clips, these are some exposure changes I did with the black and gray ball bringing them down slightly in FCP X Color Correction setting. Feel free to download the original and let me know your thoughts on the clips.... Each exposure changed clip are the 2nd and 4th of the 4 clips... I'm curious if there's anything I need to change from the PP setting I've done, as I listed below:   For bleak type days I really like it.... Change Color Mode though? Remember I want the least noise with the ability to slightly color grad without it getting noisy much. I'm not doing heavy color grading, maybe just exposure "pull downs" here and there to make the blacks darker as in the video:   https://vimeo.com/59125430   Black Level -1 Gamma Cine2 Black Gamma - Range High, Level -7 Knee - Auto Color Mode - ITU709 Matrix, Level 8 Color Level -4 Color Phase -2 Color Depth - R +1, G -1, B 0, C-1, M +2, Y 0 WB Shift - Filter Type LB-CC - LB/CC/CC/R AND B GAIN are 0 Detail - 5

  I'm using Final Cut Pro X. I just hope it works as well as Premiere Pro CS6...    Any ideas on what is best for broadcast quality, the least noise, etc as far as in PP settings? 

I'm now using a GineGamma2 and sharpness level of -7 all in a "broadcast safe" PP setting. It may be making a slight difference, but not much. Did a few test shoots with the background purposefully blown out around sharp branches, etc and it has aliasing when it's focused sharply on those branches. Been using a 28mm 1.8 and I've noticed when I used my Mark IV (DSLR) about a year or so ago that there was a little more aliasing with the 28mm than there was with the 50mm on fine details. This is in 24fps by the way, not yet tested the slow motion.   Can it also be my UV filters as well? I notice they give a glare of the sun where as when I use no UV filter, the glare is much less.  I think I need a specific UV filter, not the cheap kind where there's no glare reduction (which is what I had bought in the meantime).

Same here on recently purchasing the camera. I have until the 24th to really know the ins and outs of this camera. I am shooting a feature length narrative (my own project) and testing everything prior is essential for me. I didn't know until two days ago that the quality degrades slightly, especially after seeing that chart. Others made it seem like the image got really bad when shot in 480 fps I believe? Now I know it's no longer HD at that point, but getting more aliasing is an issue for me, at 120 and 240. I suppose in a way you just need to find the right setting for what you do and know your imitations. I think someone posted on here in another post, that all the cinematographers didn't just find the magical shot - they tested, tested, tested and I feel that is so crucial.   When it comes to PP settings, I understand it but not to the point where I know what "knee" is, etc. I'm still learning. Knowledge truly is power at this point.

What would you suggest as a PP setting for "Broadcast Safe", little to no aliasing, still a sharp image and a non-bleeding of greens, reds, oranges and bright colors? 

The camera is a great, sharp camera. Based on one of the links, with the sharpness wheel, it definitely degrades in quality a little bit. As far as the type of sharp cinematic image for a 24fps setting, I think that this camera is a great upgrade from DSLRs. I'm very impressed by it to be honest. You just have to be careful with aliasing, and like some of you have said, be cautious, maybe fix it up in post production or add Neat Video or blur it slightly, things like that... I just want to make sure I have the best settings I can have, to ensure that I don't re-shoot. I'm starting a feature later this month and I've had this camera for a few weeks, it's a great camera, I'm still learning things here and there and every day I'm doing test shoots.   So would you suggest on the PP1 I turn the sharpness all the way down to -7 I believe it goes down to? Will that degrade the quality significantly? 

Here's an aliasing test video.... Notice on the glasses, some of the plaid shirt. 120 fps, 250 shutter   https://vimeo.com/58846341 Used a 28mm 1.8 Canon lens. This was on the run, with a Glidecam Vest and Arm. Quick takes, my woman had to go home and it was cold but she was a good sport.

How do I change the level of sharpness let's say if I do not use a Picture Profile setting? Is there any way to with the camera itself or it only through Picture Profile settings? I ask because I've been thinking about not using the PP settings but if I can somehow fix aliasing issues or minimize it, I'm willing to take the time to do test shoots and test them out on cloudy and sunny days and see which works best. My main two issues is video noise and aliasing. I have my ISO at a constant 500 (the lowest it can be). I come from the DSLR world and love that the FS700 has some great natural noise, but I try to minimize it as much as I can whenever I shoot.

There is definitely a little more noise due to the glass...or so it seems... I just shelled out $399 on the Smart Adapter II... Gonna be a while before I splurge some cash on the Speed Booster. I've seen some clips that I am impressed with and some that I am not. Hopefully the price lowers sooner than later. $599 is understandable to a degree, but a lot of us don't have loads of cash to spend on these adapters...unfortunately, ha! Well some do..but yeah.

You know, before I got a Metabones I used Fotodiox and I think it's a damn fine adapter for $40. Metabones obviously has the connection function to the camera with the FS700 for Iris control which is crucial but having a Fotodiox as a backup is a great tool.

https://vimeo.com/58826725 A more "severe" aliasing issue. Notice the main branch in focus outline. I understand my whites may be over-exposed behind but I didn't too much noise on the darks such as the greens and the browns. When I tried to color grade (not shown in this photo) it made it slightly worse and more noticeable. This setting is on NO Picture Profile setting.