Gábor Ember
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Everything posted by Gábor Ember
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Nicely done. How much does this whole setup weigh?
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I noticed this while shooting with my Helios-44M and SUN. On a sunny day I started to stop down the Helios and the exposure did not change, only the depth of field.
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Use it to project your anamorphic videos
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I think it is way too much for this type of lens, but it depends on you. These Sankor are good with 85mm on Full-frame camera, and usually with a 58mm Helios on an APS-C sensor. Mind you that this is a dual focus anamorphic adapter, like most other projection anamorphics. So you will have to focus with the taking lens and the anamorphic lens too. People get great images from these type of sankors (16c, 16f) Ask the seller about the lens clamp, what filter size does it have. You need it to mount on your lens.
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I will probably sell my rehoused sun+helios for a million once it's finished. Etch some Cine Retro Flare Vintage writing on it. The anamorphic craze will surely take it.
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Make a cardboard "filter" that has an oval cut out in the middle, thus creating oval bokeh, like an anamorphic does.
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Would an oval mask work when placed at the back?
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OK new stuff. I need to design two sockets for the front and back glass block of the SUN. The original housing for the front glass does not enable proper alignment, it loosens the whole group which can rotate even from cleaning with a cloth. I need to create a tube that holds the glass in position with probably O-rings and a threaded ring that tightens, fixes the glass in place. Now this tube has to be aligned (only once). I am now at 10 parts for the design. It is way more than what I first wanted but they are much more simple. I really need to post some pics of what I am talking about... Edit.: Since I will place the SUN back glass really close to the helios I may be able to eliminate vignetting. Can anyone suggest a light helical grease? I will need to grease the parts but I don't want to make the focusing really heavy.
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I think it works yes, I can focus way beyond 10 meters. Are you able to focus very close, less than 1m? If you are not able to reach infinity then the other end of the focus must be shifted as well.
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Circular bokeh means that the taking lens is not focused but still the image should change when the Sankor is focused.
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1.8x to 1.5x sounds about right. Your setup looks great and the sample shot is sharp, was it shot wide open?
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I read about decentering and tilting errors and it certainly looks like the SUN has some tilting error. I read an article on Lensrentals blog about testing this. I will probably shoot some test pictures in the evening and check if the error is caused by the front or the back part and also if it is inside the glass group, or the whole group is tilted. We can counteract any tilt and shift errors in the machining process hopefully.
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Also I think you will be better off with diopters because if you do close focus by moving the front glass closer to the rear glass you will change the squeeze factor. Probably it will be reduced from 2x to 1.5x or so. If you use diopter the front and rear part can be farther away from each other thus the squeeze remains around the original value.
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Very hard to align this way I think and you would still need to shade it. I think this is very tricky. You'll be better off with bellows than cloth. Otherwise the method is good. Close focus works like that.
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Hehe, the image will be the same as you can see in the Sun Anamorphic Topic. The glass is the same, only the body will change. Don't expect anything great from the image quality of this. This is a cheap setup. Yesterday I checked the alignment of the Sun because I had issues before at the edges of the frame. Mostly noticeable at night when streetlight are at the edges, they have very interesting streaks on the right edge and on the left edge they are vertical. If I gather correctly this means a misalignment, not radial misalignment but angular. The front and rear glass in the SUN (original body) are not parallel and one edge of the image has backfocus while the other has frontfocus. I will try to counteract this.
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Depreciation value with new anamorphics coming out
Gábor Ember replied to elubes's topic in Cameras
Anamorphic speedbooster would not be the same as a front anamorphic. You would not get the oval bokeh. I read that rear anamorphics do not produce these since the spherical elements are in the front. -
Excuse the crudeness of this sketch: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8zMWSjUuUsKRllZX3A2ZUtWakk/edit?usp=sharing The straight grooves are the inner body, the helicals are a separate outer tube (either one single tube for single focus, or it is cut in half for dual focus). As you can see by turning the outer tube 90 degrees clockwise you will move the Helios 3mm while at the same time move the Sun front part much more in the opposite direction. I know, I know, I will make some proper drawing in CAD with measurements on it. Damn work...
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For now I am thinking of a dual focus system, 2 focus rings. Gearing is not needed though for single focus. It can be done with two spiral grooves (or helicals or whatever) that don't have the same angle, steepness. The anamorphic part shoudl have a steeper groove which would mean that when the the Helios moves 3 mm the anamorphic front can move 7mm (in the opposite direction). The helical grooves can be linear on non-linear, the travel of the glass depends on them. Here is a very extreme example: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/media/2013/01/helicoidsml.jpg This is why I want to make a dual focus rehousing first, and after that maybe the single focus. The 2 focus ring will have the same turning angle, that is not a problem, only have to mach the minimum focus and infinity, the 2 endpoints. After I have that I can see how wildly the focus of the 2 lenses differ.
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I want to do CAD but I need a few days to get to know it first. It should not take more than that, I have everything on paper, I just need to draw in on my PC.
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I really like how these Hawks look: http://www.filmanddigitaltimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/FDTimes-N13_0933.jpg
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http://a3dplayer.com/scene/deab14a4c48fed31c6a89486b19a5027/#.UjCVNMaccvg Rotate with mouse. This is just some testing from yesterday. Once I have a design that I like I will render it in Max with proper paintjob and such.
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Thank you! I looked at this picture, but I think that I can only use the mechanich part of it since I cannot change the optics, only how they are positioned and moved. I will probably copy the look of these lens bodies.
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I was looking at pictures of Pana lenses and they got me thinking. Maybe if I put those things that look like eyelids in front of the anamorphic glass they will reduce the white vignetting caused by incoming light. I don't know this lens of course, it probably has a square front lens, that is why it looks like that, but you can see the eyelid looking things in front of the front lens at the top and bottom.. I got a very simple 3d model of my current design at my home PC. I'll post some renders tonight.
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Well there are only 2 anamorphic elements so alignment is not that hard but it has to be done when the system is attached to the camera so I can see if the image is sharp. I have disassembled the Sun a couple of times now and it is not hard to adjust the alignment, just have to use a caliper and turn the glass element. I am not worried about that part, it may take some time, but it can be done. The hardest part might be putting the optical blocks inside the one piece body.
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The donors [sharedmedia=gallery:images:700] Sun disassembled with all its parts [sharedmedia=gallery:images:701] Sun glass parts that I will use [sharedmedia=gallery:images:702] Helios glass parts that I will use [sharedmedia=gallery:images:703]
