Gábor Ember
-
Posts
167 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Articles
Everything posted by Gábor Ember
-
I just did some testing yesterday and a new wide angle adapter is at the post office now, I am taking it home today. The one I have is a Fotga wide angle adapter (0.65x on paper, but it really isn't that wide), it is really good on a Hoya 28mm f2.8 and really bad on everything else. The problem is that on longer lenses (also on my anamorphic setup) it makes the whole image hazy. Highlights have halos. There is a middle ring that is sharp-ish but towards the edges it gets more and more blurry, like if it was shot with a lensbaby. Stopping down improves the image a bit. Now that is only the Fotga. Today I will test the Zomei 58mm slim wide angle adapter. It has a bigger diameter so the edges are farther from the center. I will post some before/after images tonight.
-
No, that will only change the taking lens' focus, not the anamorphic. What you say is what the most basic lenses actually do when focusing. Take a Helios for example. When you turn the focus ring, the whole lens block moves closer or farther thus the anamorphic mounted in the front of it does the same. The most simple anamorphics focus by moving only the front lens group while the back lens group stays in place. Oh and at least on my Sun anamorphic the focus is the other way around (Sankors and the like are almost the same as far as I know): the Helios has infinity focus when closest to the sensor the Sun anamorphic is at infinity when the front glass is farthest from the back glass
-
I reported earlier that the Sun is not 2x for me. I have been using it for some time now and I can say that the most accurate stretch value is 1.66x (either set the width to 166% or set the height to 60%). Magic Lantern has 1.66x anamorphic preview so it helps a lot when shooting.
-
I understand its purpose, that is why I bought it, so that I can have background and foreground in focus while using shallow dof anamorphic. I did not have the split-diopter yet at the time of shooting the video above. I haven't got around to actually using slipt diopters or simple diopters at all. I only did some tests so far. I like the look of split-field with wide-angle lenses better than with 50mm. Anamorphic is ok.
-
https://vimeo.com/65455501 We did not have the greatest weather but I managed to get some sunny shots. Massive CC was needed because the mostly cloudy sky whashed out all colors. I don't like the Sun for landscape, I can't get enough detail from it for that purpose. Closer subjects are fine.
-
Really simple to disassemble. I was thinking of using lighter grease but I was worried about getting it on the lens too. Also keep in mind that screwing out the back glass part and screwing it back in might mess up the lens alignment. It has to be really precise in order to not mess up the whole image. If the front and back lens groups are not aligned correctly nothing will be in focus.
-
Wow, I got nothing like this. Maybe at closest focusing distances I get about the same sharpness but at bigger distances my setup is waaay less sharp. I need to learn what are the best configs. I may need to use the Jupiter-9 instead of the helios because of the vignetting anyway. Also I use zero sharpness on my 550D so some post sharpening might enhance my results.
-
Very nice little clip. Real sharp for a cheap anamorphic. I just arrived from Croatia, I took some shots there with the Sun. My shots are much more soft but I think the Helios is the problem here. I will upload once I have the video edited. Also I find that after the little repair I did last time the whole setup is much easier to use but my Helios needs service too, 1 of the 3 screws at the mount side is broken so the whole taking lesn+anamorphic wobbles.
-
I think it depens on the anamorphic yes. I'm just posting my experiences, this is not a big issue for me, if it bothers me I shade the lens. I think you could make a separate topic for this. Other much more experienced shooters might have nice tips. Make sure to post some sample images if you can.
-
It will not help when pointing straigh at the lens, but you can produce flares whitout pointing the light straight in the lens, I mean from an angle. Doesn't position and the direction of the lightsource make a difference in your case? The point is to not light the deep interior of the lens, just the front glass. At least in my case it helps.
-
I have the same thing with my Sun Anamorphic I think. The inner lens barrel reflects light. You may be able to reduce it with a hood or a mattebox.
-
Nice idea, thanks.
-
I really like the colors in this. How did you do the motion in the first shot?
-
In Matrix they used printed backgrounds in that shot, a huge still image. The image was not projected.
-
Check this out: http://www.emachineshop.com/ If I understand correclty you can use their free CAD software to design your parts, send it and the company creates it in their machine shop. Now I don't know if they ship to Brazil. I guess you can find other companies like this. Edit: I just did a quick trial and their software looks pretty easy to handle. You can preview the model in 3D in one click and the program should calculate the cost of the parts and also shipping. Their site says that international shipping is available.
-
Thanks! Oh, I just noticed that I've failed to mention that the small 1mm screws are eliminated in the new design. The whole outer body can be screwed apart by hand. I have just ordered a bunch of 58mm filters for this: split field +1 diopter graduated grey filter slim wide angle adapter (wonder if it will be any good, my 52mm Fotga wide angle is really good on a Hoya HMC 28mm but it is horribly glowy on the Helios-44M) slim fader ND step-up, step-down rings All of these were cheap, I'll post my experiences when they arrive.
-
The thicker ones could be achromats, the thinner could be simple one glass diopters ?
-
Alright
-
I can do renders for you in MAX, put materials on glass and metal parts so they look glass and metal, try out different color schemes, if you want. I cannot help you in CAD, that's the hard part :(
-
I see. Then there is your answer, use CAD for modeling and use Max for previsualization, render.
-
I bought an AKIRA HD Macro Close Up lens set 58mm +1 +2 +4 +10. These are simple cheap close-up filters. I don't plan on buying filters that cost more than my anamorphic and these cheap filters produce decent result. My Sun Anamorphic has a 1.5m (5ft) closest focusing distance so it is not bad to start with. For indoors shooting the +1 is useful, the others are really in the macro category. The +1 is sharp enough even when the taking lens is wide open. I also just bought a split field diopter filter with a +1 diopter. Does anybody have experience in using split field?
-
Try Google Sketchup for 3D modeling
-
I guess yeah :) The front ring swap idea came just before you posted about your rehousing idea and I immediately thought that making it from aluminium parts would be your best bet. This custom ring took a day for my friend (not a complete day) and he had to measure everything, make the blueprint or at least think out what goes where too. You should search for a shop that machines alu parts, Now they will probably will not do it as cheap as mine but I don't see how else you can rehouse a lens. I made some sketches myself for the rehousing of a helios and the anamorphic adaptor together in one body. I just got a bit carried away :) The front ring mod is a bliss. The vignetting is reduced and filters are fitted in seconds.
-
And it is done!
-
My friend took away the front ring and a diopter ring. I think it would take him at least two weeks to make the custom front ring, because both the front and end part of it will be threaded in the inside. He is not a lens mechanic so I have to describe the whole function of the thing to him. He did a nice job on the custom clamp so I believe he will do a great job again. Now I have a partially open anamorphic here. I want to wipe the current grease off and use something more light.
