Inazuma

The image should be just as bright. May be some other factors at play. Perhaps the ISO went as high as it could go?

This is the same behaviour as most cameras btw. Not just the A7 iii. The exposure meter on screen, when aperture, iso or shutter speed are set to auto, will always show 0 or whatever exposure compensation you've set it to because it is changing the exposure to match the scene.

Ive mostly travelled with a 35mm equivalent lens for the last few years. But for the last week while I've been in Hong Kong I've been using a 24-85mm f3.5-4.5 and loving it. The combo is a lot bigger but it's not actually been all that bad, even in such an intensely dense city as Hong Kong. In fact I've been considering buying a 24-70mm f2.8 whilst I'm here

Just a quick update on my experience with the sigma mc-11. Some of the lenses I only had a few minutes to try Yongnuo 35mm f2: Doesn't autofocus at all. That 35mm f2 look is awesome though. Canon 50mm f1.8 stm: AF-S works well. Didn't have enough time to compare it against the Sony 50mm f1.8 Fe. The size of the adapter and lens is just slightly bigger than the Sony lens. Sigma 17-35mm f2.8-4: I've been using the Nikon mount version of this lens for a couple years on Nikon, panasonic, canon and now Sony cameras. One of my faves. The canon mount version on the sigma mc-11 does seem to attempt to autofocus but there's a big problem - the aperture stays locked at the smallest opening. Not sure if it was a fault of the particular lens. Canon 24-85mm f3.5-4.5: af-s and c works well in stills. Continuous doesn't work in video. The focus ring is not smooth and has some play, making manual focus quite difficult. Other than that, it's a great lens with plenty of character (flaring, slight distortion, slight chromatic aberration). I'm not sure if I'm keeping it yet because of the manual focus problems. It would be perfect otherwise.

I thought they sorted it with the latest firmware?

No because I would likely use it with vintage glass

So how did it go?

I had no autofocus issues at all with mine

The Tamron 28-75mm is really something else. Wide open sharpness at every focus distance and zoom. Almost no CA. Excellent flare control. All in a relatively compact and cheap form. But still, I've decided to return it as I can't really afford it. I have a sigma mc-11, canon 24-85mm f3.5-4.5, 50mm stm and yongnuo 35mm f2 on order. Kind of interested in their performance compared to the Tamron, Sony 50mm Fe f1.8 and Samyang 35mm f2.8.

Smooth exposure transition as well? Now we're talking

Honestly the camera already injects too much orange into the image as it is. It really doesn't need more

Yeh that 16-50mm f2-2.8 sure is a doozy. Wish they'd made more lenses for the system. Specifically a 23mm f2 (35mm) and 35mm f2 (50mm). Still waiting for Canon to have a 23mm f2 on their aps-c dslr's and 35mm f2 on their mirrorless..

Using Windows, had no problems with playback early last year when I tested the nx1 out. Smooth experience. I wish I could like the image as much as you do. Would save me a lot of money.

canon 17-55mm f2.8 or sigma 17-50mm f2.8 (about half the price)

Doesn't Sony have a hotshoe mic?

So what cameras give true 4k optical resolution?

You should speak with the bridge and groom first to see if they would like this style. If you are going to go through with it, just remember to keep it all about dynamism. Keep moving to different places. Posing differently, with different objects in the surrounding. Camera-wise. To me it looks like it was shot on real 16mm. The chroma on some of the shots is very characteristic of it. But they may have exaggerated it a bit by adding light leaks. Don't bother shooting 4k. You need to keep rolling shutter at a minimum. Perhaps use some diffusion filters to get closer to this filmic look.

MF feels better than my other two lenses (samyang 35 f2.8, sony fe 50mm f1.8) but still very much feels like focus by wire

I just received my Tamron 28-75 today. Awesome lens. No focus issues so far

I just learnt from this video that the Rode XLR adapter converts the 12v phantom power down to 3-5v Edit: Note it's the VXLR+ not the regular VXLR that does this. Using a regular mic with regular VXLR will likely damage it.

I suggest getting one wide (around 28mm full frame equivalent, so 14mm on m43) and one somewhat Tele (around 85mm full frame, so 42.5mm m43). So for your budget is say something like the Panasonic 15mm f1.7 and Olympus 45mm F1.8

If I use the XLR adapter for my mics, should I turn the phantom power of the recorder off?

First time I've owned an A7 series camera so I can take advantage of this ? Looks great. Just bought it now.

Could you tell us a bit about your camera set up there? Did you do multiple takes with 1 or 2 cameras and intercut them?

Just thinking - can I use an adapter to turn my two 3.5mm mics into XLR mics and plug them into the tascam dr60d? This is just a hobby for me and they're not professionals either, so the less money we can spend the better