Inazuma

I know the stated max load is 1200g but do you guys think it would be possible for it to handle 1500g?

For me, the character of vintage lenses give footage much more feeling to them. I would use them more but I like the conveniences that modern lenses give. For example, I just got an Aputure DEC Lensregain which allows me to control aperture and focus remotely for a relatively small sum. The catch is that it only works with Canon EF lenses. So I'm looking to vintage-ize modern lenses. The softness or diffusion can easily be achieved by smudging the front element or adding a diffusion filter. But things like bokeh shape and harshness, chromatic aberrations and flares are harder to achieve. I was thinking about buying a load of UV filters and stacking them on top of one another in front of the lens. Has anyone ever attempted this or done anything else to try to achieve the effect (of basically inferior optics)?

Thanks @BTM_Pix. I swear those two things didn't do anything though. Will try again when I have a chance.

The list looks fake as heck.

The GX80 will understandably have no difference when recorded externally since it probably outputs only 4:2:0 8bit. I dont know the specs of the LS300 but again, if its output is no better than the internal codec then you wont see a difference. Even if the internal codec is inferior, you may not see much of a difference until you film something with more extremes (more different colours, tones, movement). From what ive read previously, external recording allows 4k 60p, which you cant do internally.

It's RAW stills, guys

So I just tried the "hack" with the two G80's I recently received (from a UK seller). I couldn't get unlimited recording working on either of them sadly. Thanks for the tip about pressing the DISP button though. The video I saw didn't mention it and I was left unable to restore the original recording framerates!

Well apart from those two annoyances I'm actually really impressed with the camera and the image. I can see me carrying on using this for some time!

Your client probably wont see the difference if its only viewed on youtube.

I've noticed that when sharpening is dialled down, the focus peaking doesn't work as well. Is there some way to record with minimal sharpening but still have more visible peaking?

Well, that's disappointing.

Hey guys Just got the G80 (well, two of them actually). When using the WiFi feature to record/monitor, the camera's screen turns off after a minute and I'm unable to bring it back on. Is there a way to stop this??

One thing that I think can be attributed to the X-Trans filter array is the high iso performance. Most other sensors give a lot of colour noise at high ISO's which is ugly. The X-trans grain is for the most part, colourless. Makes the images look a lot more film-like and a lot more pleasing to the eye.

I agree the Flat profile on Nikon D5500/D750 etc is amazing. Just a superb image; usable without grading. But I found that there is only a small difference between it and the Standard profile with contrast turned all the way down.

Yes Don't know. Seems to work fine though. AF-S, AF-C. No tracking or face detection (except in HD). Rolling shutter on the camera is fairly average (ie. good in HD and poor in 4k). I'm not a big fan of the HD, especially in low light. The XT2 has several firmware enhancements that make it a lot more usable for video (eg. being able to switch between the EVF and LCD, and ability to change iso while recording). - Others have pointed out other issues that make the camera not a great choice for documentary type work. But would be good for things like narrative where you can take your time.

I'm in the mood for pointless arguments. I think I know the difference between digital sharpening, aliasing and real resolution. And no one here is saying the NX1 has a garbage image just because of digital sharpening.

The guy provided you with an article showing evidence of sharpening and you're still denying it. Why?

The NX1 definitely has higher resolution than almost any other 4k camera, but it is definitely also sharpened digitally as well. It's more obvious in FHD too. Regarding the luma range; I'm really surprised you guys didn't know about this earlier. This is a "trick" that works on Sony files as well. However, I found there to be little difference in DR between shooting at 16-235 and shooting at 0-255 and using the Fast Color Corrector.

The 100% crops dont look good, no. But theres so much more to photography than things looking good at a pixel level. The camera offers so much in a small body. If youre someone who avidly likes to capture images then i feel like the only reason not to get it if you can afford one is the lack of video features.

@meanwhile I'm not setting myself up for anything. I'm treating it as a rumor and put no stock in it. I didn't realise it was an issue with the image circle from the lens.

@meanwhile We had this discussion a while ago. The placement of the sensor in the mount is very similar to that of the Sony E series. And if Sony can do it with a FF sensor, Fuji can do it too. It's not going to be as effective as the m43 one, but it's something at least. BTW @deezid, photozone just published their review of the 23mm f2 and pretty much came to the same conclusion as I did (and ive had two different copies of the lens). Good build quality, AF and image quality, but the out of focus rendering is very busy - my main gripe with the lens. http://www.photozone.de/fuji_x/1013-fuji23f2?start=1

You cant set noise reduction in video but from my experience it is a lot less aggressive than the Panasonic cameras ive had. Its usable at iso 6400 and sometimes more imo. I would be careful of using -2 highlights/shadows on everything. It can end up making things look really weird. I used to use mostly Provia or Classic Chrome with -1 h/s. I would use ProNeg Std with -2 h/s when i absolutely needed more DR. This camera changed the way i shot. I stopped looking to capture maximum tonal range and started looking for shapes and silhouettes in the shadows. You can get up to an hr's recording on one battery. The 35 and 23 f1.4 are gorgeous lenses. A little slower and heavier than the f2 lenses but worth it imo. The 16-55 f2.8 will also be good but will have to be used on a shoulder rig or other stabiliser.

Does the xt20 have some of the limitations of the pre-firmware xt2? Such as, when recording, the inability to change iso or switch between evf and rear lcd?

http://www.43rumors.com/ft5-next-olympus-pro-lens-is-the-17mm-f1-2/ Knowing Olympus, it's going to be far sharper than it needs to be for a 16-20mp sensor and thus much bigger, heavier and pricier than an m43 lens needs to be.... But. This may bring me back to m43. See it's my favourite focal length and I think Panasonic/Olympus have the best IBIS and ergonomics in the industry. Honestly though it pains me every time they bring out a new expensive and needlessly heavy lens. The Fuji 35mm f1.4 is lighter and smaller than the Panasonic 25mm f1.4, with a nicer metal body. And of course much small than the Olympus 25mm f1.2.

Indeed. The size of the photosite does seem to matter a lot. For example, when i had the 16mp m43 panasonic gx7, i found it to perform similarly in noise and DR to the 24mp aps-c sony a6000. The 24mp aps-c Fuji XT2 performs similarly (or actually a bit better) to the 42mp full-frame Sony Rx1r ii (or a7r ii).