Inazuma

D5600 announced with minimal changes as usual by Nikon's standards. Nikon's stills and video image is stellar. If only they would release a body with phase detection in live view, maybe even something mirrorless. And more APS-C prime lenses (especially for 35mm or wider equivalence). As it stands, I see Nikon tanking in the long term.

Hmm it's sharper than I thought. But there is a huge amount of moire and aliasing. https://***URL removed***/reviews/image-comparison/fullscreen?attr29_0=fujifilm_xt1&attr29_1=nikon_d5500&attr72_0=1080&attr72_1=1080&normalization=full&widget=427&x=-0.5600991297665953&y=0.142551466145631 Also I'm not sure exactly but I don't think there are any manual controls of exposure. BTW the XA2 doesn't use the X-trans sensor, so the video may be better on it.

Video on the X-T10? Really not worth even thinking about. The footage and controls are awful. I don't really upload my photos as much as I used to but here are a few from the X-T10 as well as the X-T1 and X100s which I had for very briefly https://www.flickr.com/photos/scastilho/sets/72157676229345106

Goddamn

I have had the 23mm f1.4 for about two months now (using it on the X-T10). Really beautiful images from it. I've yet to actually process any raws on my computer - the jpegs are that good. I did have the XT2 briefly before that but decided to return it until it became cheaper. I was hoping for better AF performance/usability in video. Before the 23mm I used the 35mm f1.4. The image from this lens is also really nice and it produces a wonderful rainbow flare. But the AF on it is very poor by today's standards. The 18-55mm f2.8-4 is also a nice lens. Good images, AF, stabilisation. Having said all that im currently eyeing up an EOS M5. You might want to consider it as well since you have lots of EF lenses. No 4k and even the 1080p is mediocre but seems like the usability will be much better that the XT2 due to the body shape and touch screen. Also it has digital stabilisation like the NX1 did. Not ideal but better than nothing (maybe).

I'm not sure why everyone is so shocked by the price. Sure it's m43, but it's practically the most advanced and usable hybrid camera yet to come out.

Sold mine a while back. Because of the supply shortage I actually sold it for more than I bought it for

Nice. Looks quite natural. Regarding the focus hunting on the Fuji, I heard that when Face Detection is On that the camera stops using Phase detection and resorts to contrast detection, which might be the reason it keeps hunting like that? Could you test this out?

BTW I think with the new Nikon E type lenses, the aperture can be controlled in liveview on bodies that previously couldn't (i.e. d3xxx, d5xxx and d7xxx). Or am I mistaken?

Those are really just differences in the autofocus settings. Both cameras have settings for the sensitivity of the c-af. That is, how fast it notices there is a new subject that should be in focus. And both are capable of almost instant recognition. However only the Sony has a setting for how long the focus transition takes. That's why you'll see the Fuji does instantaneous pulls while the Sony does gradual ones.

From my experience the Flat profile has similar DR to clog on the c100 ii. I personally preferred the colours too. It's a nice camera but every time you go to live view it seems to make a loud double mirror slap sound and it's hard to focus without any aids.

@Ivanhurba @fuzzynormal the fujifilm 35mm f1.4 is $600 and weighs less than 200g. By comparison the new Olympus 25mm 1.2 is over 400g, longer and $1000. There are a few m43 lenses that chase absolute clarity at the expense of size and price. I really feel this is a poor strategy. The Fuji 23mm f1.4 is 300g and $900. I hope if Olympus/Panasonic do finally make a 17mm f1.4 or f1.2 that they don't follow the same strategy as the 25mm. You can't really compare the prices to Sony because their FE lenses are obviously made for full frame and should be more expensive anyway. But their lenses are overpriced too anyway imo. Their quality is stunning obviously and so worth the price to some but they need cheaper alternatives.

The lack of this lens is like the only reason I've still not committed to the m43 system. But if they make it as big and expensive as the 25 then I'm out.

Isn't it more lens dependent on the Canons though? I heard there's no face tracking or focus transition speed options on non-STM lenses.

Agree totally @fuzzynormal ive felt that way for a while now. But as with all things tech, its good to have the option easily available

Exciting times for camera enthusiasts God damn some effing body though. I don't mind the shape but that dial that also acts as buttons is really poor So is this priced $400 above the initial price of the a6300?

IBIS, better 1080p, reduce 4k rolling shutter and I'm sold. I can deal with the other quirks for the nice IQ and AF.

Those are some great results. I wonder why there's such a discrepancy with the rolling shutter results between these guys and the dvxuser guy

+1 for black magic resolve. Great program. And free.

Before anyone starts thinking of buying this camera for its autofocus, I will say that the AF is more built for stills autofocus. Most of the native lenses (even the 18-55) have dated autofocus tech that just don't move fast enough for fast c-af, especially in video. And as you may have seen in some videos, it tends to keep hunting for focus even when it's already locked on to something that's not moving.

What was your problem with the a6300? Ive not used DPAF on a Canon DSLR but I cant see how it can get much better than it is on that camera

You can see moire and aliasing in cameralabs videos https://vimeo.com/user803551 I can test macroblocking for you if you want. Just let me know the best way to test for it. I only have the camera for one more night though.

I am just now trusting the reliability of memory cards enough to use 64gb

I'm an animator. It's not really something you can just drop into. Takes a lot of time to learn and a lot of patience and dedication to get right. I recommend getting the book "Animator's Survival Kit" which goes through all the core principles of it, with plenty of illustrated examples. It's probably a great read even for those just interested in animation but not necessarily wanting to get into it. If you have a drawing tablet I recommend using Pencil 2D animation software http://www.pencil2d.org/ or if you have an ipad or android tablet get a stylus and the Rough Animator app. If you don't have either then I'd recommend getting one. I would stay away from massively complicated programs like Blender if you're just starting out. If you do get serious about animation, I'd recommend taking classes at ianimate or animschool rather than going to physical place of education.