Inazuma

Nice job I can see the improvements in your technique with each video. And I know that doing something like this at a festival whilst drinking is quite a challenge

Have another man with a wireless field monitor use an electronic wireless follow focus module :D

@mercer

@mercer was that footage I uploaded helpful for you?

I used to use this with my GX7 http://kamerar.com/collections/lcd-viewfinders/products/qv-1-lcd-view-finder-kit + the follow focus http://kamerar.com/collections/rigs-stabilizer/products/kamerar-ff-1-follow-focus-w-15mm-quick-release-rods-clamp

It seems disproportionate to "ruin" someone's life over this

I have to say all this drama has been a refreshing change from the constant posts about motion cadence recently The idea of a short film about this is also interesting. We could each shoot a scene for the film. And the constant changing of locations etc in each scene could be tied into how the protagonist has a multiple personality disorder or something.

Soooo let me get this straight @Ebrahim Saadawi Ebrahim Saadawi's account has always only been used by one person afterall. Not a 19 year old or a grandfather but a 21 year old dentist with some professional filmmaking experience? The media company you spoke of does not exist either? Have you ever actually owned/used extensively some of the gear you've claimed to have in the past? Such as the 1DC? The C100, etc.. How much gear information that you've given in the past has been false, if any?

I always felt the information he gave out on this forum was shoddy anyway. I'm sure at one point he even claimed the D750 was as sharp as the C100, which is not even close to the truth. But to throw away his reputation for £200 (if that?) is especially baffling.

Personally I think that if you have a tendency to increase saturation in post then you should avoid setting it to -5 in camera because when you increase it in post it introduces more artefacts.

Was this shot in Portugal or a European country? If so you should be shooting 100fps at 1/200th rather than 120fps at 1/250th. Other than that, I don't know what you can do to solve the issue.

The vision color ones (the ones made specifically for Sony) are pretty good I'm finding but I prefer FilmConvert. Also I have made a LUT for Panasonic cameras that incidentally works quite nicely with this slog setup

I had the camera for half a year and used the hell out of it. I had no problems exposing etc. You can gargle numbers at me all you want but I test the shit out of all my cameras and really found no discernible difference in DR. And ergonomics are subjective of course but the LCD/viewfinder were inferior to even my lx100 ( and I was using the mark ii not I)

I hold the unpopular opinion on this forum that the c100 II is not worth it. It's £3000+ for a camera that has no better dynamic range than a Panasonic or Nikon (trust me I tried really hard to find a difference). Really does not grade well at all (loads of compression artefacts when you push/pull exposure/shadows). The LCD and viewfinder have poor resolution and colour reproduction. Weird control system (v easy to change shutter speed, iso, aperture and WB but things like Zebras and peaking are a button on the side of the camera which you have to look for to press). You should consider a Canon 1DC. Also that new Fuji XT2 is lookin good, although I don't know how good/bad the rolling shutter is. Also a Panasonic G7. I am going to release a LUT at some point that changes the colours to be more like that of a Canon/nikon.

Two questions: 1) What is CML? 2) How long have you held motion cadence in such high regard? I remember you used to be quite fond of the NX1 despite its poor readout time

I shot this with both those cameras as part of a series of side-by-side shots a few weeks ago. Both cameras are on Standard profile. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByDASBWUzaNVNWdxLVlwdXFBS1U Here is a clip from just the D5500 on Flat profile: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByDASBWUzaNVbmVNdy1kYlZSTU0 Here is a scene that was shot simultaneously by the GX7 and D5500. GX7 on Standard -5 all. D5500 on Flat with -3 all (yes you can actually make the Flat profile flatter but I wouldn't recommend it): https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByDASBWUzaNVYjhleEREVlJWSEk I wouldn't judge colour or DR differences too much based on these shots because the variable ND filters used cause colour shifts and changes in specular highlights

I'm finding the "narrow" black gamma to be noticeably noisier in the shadows than Middle or Wide.

@mercer @John Matthews @Michael Coffee etc.. I have shot with a plethora of cameras including Fuji's, Panasonics, Sony's, Nikons (crop and full frame). In terms of JPEG output, the Fuji and (extremely surprisingly) the Sony a6300 have for me been the most pleasing. But in terms of RAW, they're all as good as you ever need them to be. What matters more than anything is the scene and the lens. If you don't believe me you can look through my photos http://www.sebcastilho.com/people/ The images can be downloaded too and EXIF data is in tact. Theres stills from all the cameras Ive used there including some film cameras. What matters a lot too is ergonomics and in this regard I find mirrorless cameras to have a big advantage over DSLRs due to their live-view autofocus capability, allowing you to get angles that are very difficult with a DSLR. @sanveer The write up probably won't happen for at least a few weeks because I want to shoot and edit some videos first. But if you have any questions you can message me.

I have both cameras and I'm going to do a post about this at some point but basically the decision really should come down to what you will find more useful: 5 axis stabilisation or fast C-Af. There's a lot more points to make about the subject but like I said I will probably do a write-up some time.

On my 17mm it is fairly smooth unless you turn it quickly

The Olympus lenses that have a clutch focus are the closest you'll get to a manual focus feel. They have hard stops and the rotation of the ring lines up with exact distances. The main difference is that if you turn the ring quickly, the focus will snap to the new distance.

Holy fuck that was heavy for a Monday morning

Does anyone know what Color Phase and the Color Depth settings do? I'm not seeing any visible differences as I alter them. Same with some of the other settings too

I think for the first year the prices will be quite stagnant and then it will go up as time goes on because the people that do get it will want to keep hold of it and so supply will go down and price will go up. Fuck sentence structure.