Inazuma

Only in 4K though.

CLOG from my c100 ii had a green shift too. You need to increase the Phase in the colour options to fix it

The c100 can only do dual AF in a central area and only do face AF using certain lenses. The a6300's is more flexible and faster. (source: past owner of the c100 ii and am currently playing around with the a6300)

The word you're looking for is "lend"

I have been using SLOG2 with the black gamma and saturation increased. Basically becomes a Standard profile but with more much headroom in the highlights.

I live in the UK and often buy grey market. The crashing currency will only mean that UK companies have to charge even more now whilst the grey market dealers can probably continue selling at their current prices

I'd like to congratulate Zach on for once not writing an unnecessarily long and baffling post Zooming in post feels different to using a dolly and feels different to zooming with a lens. Sometimes you see all three techniques used in a single film or TV episode. Each one has a different emotional effect and one can't be used to replace another.

IMO it has to be user error.

@Ed_David Are you just talking about the sensor readout time or something else that affects how you feel about the motion cadence?

The c300 was also used on Blue Is The Warmest Colour, which I thought was a beautiful movie

BTW I recommend making the WB adjustment (A:3 G:3) even for a manually whitebalanced scene. Your kids are so carefree fuzzy! I wish I had subjects like that to test my camera settings with. Jase, really nice shots as aways. I think the -5 everything works well for you. Do you use idynamic or change the highlight curve at all?

C100 and 300 are used a lot by the UFC and BBC, as well as internet shows like Vice news. Excellent cameras, though not for everyone.

The most comparable lens is the fujifilm 16mm f1.4 wr. Like the Panasonic it is 24mm equivalent, weather sealed, has a f1.4 aperture and is a 5/5 rated lens with excellent sharpness and rendition. But this lens is $699. Do you really still think the $1299 price on this is justifiable?

Still, you can't magnify during recording. I really like the minimalist look of this camera but it annoys me the the grip is not rubberised and that there's hardly anything there. The EVF is nice actually having come from a £3600 camera.. this one's EVF is actually better. But there is hardly any depth at all so in bright sunlight you still need to cover the side of your head to see it. Of course I could get the G7 and these two nitpicks would be solved. Maybe I will.

Honestly I think Panasonic and Olympus are overly concerned with image fidelity. If they put a bit less interest in sharpness and intricate lens designs, they could give us cheaper lenses whilst still keeping large apertures. I think it's been proven that the M43 community in particular is concerned with large apertures; they only need to look at how popular speed boosters are.

http://www.43rumors.com/panasonic-announces-new-leica-12mm-f1-4-apsh-summilux-lens/ $1299.99 I'm sure the performance is astounding... but come on now. Do these mirrorless companies actually want people to buy their lenses?

@Henry Ciullo You can actually give the camera continuous power. Noticed the flap on the battery door? It allows you to stick a dummy battery in that has a cable connection for power.

Well actually with the 100mbps 4k the Panasonic is better. Much cleaner shadows. The noise is much finer on the Panasonic in both 1080p and 4k

Actually for a long time after I got my GX7 I was an advocate of using iDynamic. In fact even now I wouldn't say "dont use it". But just be aware of what it does. It raises shadows and midtones in a different way than if you were to use the shadow curve or adjust the contrast slider. The end result is that the contrast in your image can look a little "washed out". It's hard to explain.. but for example if your subject is a person, then their skin wont have the same range of tonality, even after grading. This could be desirable if going for more of a low-fi look. There is no definitive. Sometimes the Nikon looks better, sometimes the Panasonic does. But the Panasonic is far more usable as a camera. Nikon mount lenses have a physical lever on the rear mount which controls the aperture directly. There are adapters you can buy which have a ring around them that controls this lever. I'm talking about electronic Nikon lenses btw, not the old manual aperture ones. The one I use is the Metabones, but there are cheaper alternatives too.

I don't think I've ever reported a post... why would I start with such an inoffensive one?

Footage with the default settings on this camera looks great, if a little clinical. I have been toying around with the settings whilst comparing it to the nikon d5500. It seems to me that the best way to get a slightly more filmic and nicer look is to use the following: Natural 0 / -5 / -5 / -2 (cont, sharp, nr, sat). -2 highlights. No iDynamic. And whitebalance adjustment set to A3 G3. With this setting, greenery looks less digital green and has more of a warm tint to it like film. And skin tones veer less towards the red and again has a warmer appearance (without looking yellowy like with GH4 stuff).

I had a c100 ii for a couple months and I don't think the image is anything to write home about. It's definitely very sharp but the d750 has better colours and similar/better DR. If you can afford the Ursa mini 4.6k then you should be able to afford the Sony FS5. I would make a decision between the two and plus the kinefinity. Surely you can import one?

Holy shit that program is exactly what I need!!

@Zach Goodwin If I'm not mistaken, Dan was just asking if there was an alternative filter to the VAF, not if he should get a camera to replace it :p

I believe the corrections are already made in the raw files. There are some raw converters that open Panasonic files without the corrections