Inazuma

Explain?

Maybe there is a quality control problem then? Because the noise I get in video is very blotchy. Not really usable past ISO 1600. Average rolling shutter as well.

I had the D5200 but wasn't too impressed. I now have a D5500 and it's markedly better. The colour is very accurate, you can pull up the shadows without getting lines across the image, the Flat profile is perfect, the ergonomics are a lot better, has 60fps at a decent bitrate, etc. Still a soft image compared to the Panasonic cameras, still not great in low light and still has no focus or exposure aids during recording. But at £380 now on the grey market it's a really nice camera. I wouldn't use it for travel video but for planned shots it's great.

So, so good man. Really love the work. The website's alright too

As someone else said, you'd be better off getting an a6000 or even a Nikon d5500. They both are cheaper and have better video quality. And the d5500 is really good for stills. The noise level is pretty similar to the a7r (less than a stop of difference) and the detail in the shadows is great (better than the A7 II). Not to mention the better lens selection.

Are those some huge webs I see in the bushes? And if so, what's on them?!

Thanks, that's almost ideal! If the power connector were DC it'd be spot on. In fact, is there some kind of adapter?

Hi all I have an external monitor which is quite light, but after putting one of these bad boy batteries in (Sony NPF970) my shoulder rig ends up leaning to one side a bit too much. I was thinking, is there some kind of product which will allow me to mount the batteries onto the back of my 15mm rail rig and then using cables, gives power to the monitor?

Could you guys try out the LUT I made and tell me what you think? It was created by colour matching GH4/GX7 footage to Canon footage of the same scene and colour charts. http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/8438-pleasing-neutralising-panasonic-luts/

Zach you are gold Good luck with the buy Oliver. BTW where do you usually rent from?

Nice post. Thanks for the thoughts and the video. Could you tell me why you picked the 1DC over the C100/300?

I would not recommend Natural mode because it turns more red things into orange. And if what Zak says about Portrait being the same as natural but with just a different level of saturation is true then I wouldn't recommend that either. Stick to Standard for the most realistic colours

I think Canon colour science is bigged up a bit too much. I can't see it being worth (together with autofocus) an extra $8000 over the FS7/Ursa Mini. I mean if you're directing a lot of high end stuff then sure. But if you are directing a lot of high end stuff, you're probably less likely to be running and gunning as a one man crew.

Nice video. What focal lengths are you shooting with there?

This lens on my Nikon d5500 is registering +2/3 EVs at 28mm compared to the rest of the range. Visually I can also see it becomes brighter in the center of the image at this focal length up to 35mm. This result is somewhat consistent with DXOMark's tests. I am not surprised it's not mentioned much because it's not something most people would realise until someone else told them. Tbh I'm not sure why it's such a big deal to some people here though. What's weird is that I just tested my GX7 with Olympus 17mm f1.8 against the Sigma 18-35mm on Nikon d5500 and the nikon combination is a stop brighter with the same settings. What does this mean?

That's quite an old lens and the stabilisation is unlikely to feel as effective as today's IS. Also being made in 2006, it is unlikely to have stabilisation designed for video.

To give you an idea of the ease of transition; I heard about C1 the night before I was due to shoot a music festival. I installed it and was immediately impressed by the results (colour and tonality). So I didn't hesitate to sort and edit all the photos from the festival using it. Personally I didn't find the transition hard, but I am used to learning much more complicated programs. Some tips: Take your time and hover your cursor over each icon to see what everything does.Set your workspace to "Simplified - Import Edit Export". This simplifies the workspace from having loads of editing tabs to just three tabs (Import, edit and export). On the Edit tab you can still add more tools such as noise reduction.The Auto Adjust option you get during import is actually very useful. It got most of my photos up to where I wanted them.Buy Capture One Styles. It's the equivalent of VSCO. And because C1 brings all RAWs to a similar level in terms of colour and tonality, the presets will work across cameras. Can't really comment much on NR and Sharpening because I don't use them much. But from some little comparisons I did I can't say the NR in C1 is any better than Lightroom. I'm not sure why you're disappointed in them though.

Canon are famed for their JPG/video colour science, not their RAW colour science. I might be wrong, but I think manufacturers have little control of their RAW colour science? It's all up to the software to interpret the data. For example I just switched to Capture One Pro from Lightroom and find it to be so much better. Lightroom: Capture One Pro

Apart from lack of 4k, how does the cheaper Canon C100 MkII compare?

Can someone confirm something for me about the LX100. I heard somewhere that you can only attach filters of the correct size to it (i.e. you cant use step-up rings) because it would jam otherwise. Is this true?

Thanks for the advise everyone. Lavs and tripod setups are a no go really because the fighters will be topless and things will be happening too quick to set up tripods. I have ended up making an arrangement with a sound guy that I work with to borrow his equipment.

How do I get my hands on one of these?

This is a poorly done satire tbh. I think you will alienate some of your readership with this as it seems too serious. But I am loving the canon bashing. Working in a big media hub in Manchester I'm continually amazed by how many people are carrying around Canon cameras (and not even a 5d3 most of the time)

Thanks for the suggestion Agolex. Ebrahim, I have the h1 and although it does record excellent sound quality, it's omnidirectional so unsuitable for what he needs. Basically it'll be put on top of the camera and pointed at the interviewee. I have tried this with the H1 before and it just picked up too much ambient sound

I know this is pretty ludicrous really but my friend is on a budget and although the two aforementioned items are pretty budget, they're still not cheap enough. Can anyone recommend an even cheaper but still OK setup? Will be used in run and gun situations, such as interviews in the changing room during a fight warmup with the crowd outside howling.