Inazuma

^Which video?

​I also put Sharpness, NR and usually Contrast at -5. BTW silly me forgot to mention the main feature of these LUTs is that it evens out skintones and puts more red into them. What I mean by "evens out" is that it fixes the blotchiness whereby some areas of skin look natural and then other parts abruptly become too yellow or orange.

I have created a new set of LUTs for Panasonic cameras. Having spent the last year and a half reviewing footage from my camera (the GX7) and various others, I have become quite familiar with its colour characteristics. In general I do find them very pleasing but in some respects they are quite flawed. And I wish to have pleasing colours without resorting to film emulation. My new LUTs do the following: Fixes the shift of reds to orangeGives greens and blues a subtly deeper and more satisfying colour.Stops the abrupt shifts of orange to yellow (which is generally what causes the poor skin tone rendition)Stops yellow from becoming overpowering.Allows film emulation LUTs to be applied without certain colours going mad The set includes two types of LUTs. One is called “Pleasing” and it gives a Canon-like rendition. The other is called “Neutralising” and gives a RAW photo look (ie. very neutral). Within each type, there are several alternatives. “A” is the main one to use, whilst “B” and “C” are offshoots with slight differences. Each LUT is actually quite subtle in how it changes the image, but its the subtle differences that can change how natural an image looks. The LUTs will also make it easier to apply film emulation LUTs without certain hues going out of control (eg. yellows becoming nuclear). Download now: Inazumas_Panny_LUTs A note on camera settings: Having done a lot of testing of camera profiles, I do believe Standard is the best. Some people recommend Natural but it shifts a lot of colours towards orange, which looks good for grass but is a bit unnatural. It also makes people look orange. Contrast at -5 is good but saturation at -5 is a bad idea if you plan to increase saturation in post anyway. This is because when you increase saturation in post of the 8bit footage, you will get loads of colour noise in the footage. I also have iDynamic on Low and highlights at -5. I use preset whitebalances with the adjustment dot set to M5 (5 points below the centre). I don’t have a GH4 so I can’t say how well it will work for CineD footage. Some images: Without LUT: With LUT: Without LUT: With LUT: Without LUT: With LUT: Original post here

How successful a LUT is really depends on the camera. For example the VisionColor stuff is terrible on Panasonic cameras (if used on their own) but really nice on Nikons. And I've found the opposite true for FilmConvert. Also I have to say that they are a little overused. It's fine for narrative stuff but does every travel video need them really?

It seems like Ed has rationalised that the way he would theoretically respond to the situation should be how everyone should react to it. Personally if an ex accused me of abuse, I don't think I'd immediately jump to stating that I'll be bringing the big guns (suing for defamation) out. I think that would make me seem more like a dick than anything. Also, the whole thing about you being on good terms with your ex's - That's great, Ed, but not very relevant to the situation. Bad relationships happen where two people try to stick it out and try to make it work for months or even years. Just because you haven't experienced or heard of this, doesn't mean it doesn't exist or that you should dismiss it. I really was astonished when you said "I will not condone taking the side of a person over two women who claim domestic abuse." I really like your work Ed but this finger pointing game without evidence is a bit mad. Let the police and courts handle it.

You came to the same conclusions around this time last year too

​While I do agree with this, I don't think you can really draw that conclusion from this list which consists majorly of very-extremely expensive cameras.

I am also an animator and own the GX7 What settings are you using currently? Try shooting on Natural or Standard with all the things dialled down and then apply this LUT in post. (Note: Works best in good light) d5300_fuji.cube

Oooh, what are you doing up around 'ere?

This is a really loaded question dude! You should have done a little more research before saying yes. I think it's difficult to do 3D with DSLR's because the lenses will be too far apart from eachother. Everything has to be aligned perfectly whilst shooting. 1mm off on the positions of the lenses or focus and you're screwed. It's really very technical. Not something you can just 'try out' like you would spin a basketball on your finger. I guess the most practical method for an indie DP is to buy a camera that has a 3D lens in its system. Have a look at the Panasonic 12.5mm 3D lens for its Lumix cameras or the Samsung NX 45mm 3D lens for its NX system. There is also this thing which I saw two years ago and is finally, finally coming out soon: http://kulainventions.com/products/kula-deeper

Source?

I enjoyed watching this film a lot but I find the above comments by Ebrahim etc a little astonishing

You need to change a setting in the menus to be able to use the aperture ring https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqtVQfSZR9Y&t=74

Congrats on the feature in NoFilmSchool

Pretty sure the d5500 has exactly the same video quality as its predecessors. I have to say, having had several bad experiences with mirrorless cameras, I quite like the fact that DSLRs have that mirror there to protect the sensor. I don't understand why mirrorless cameras dont have a function to lock the shutter so as to protect the sensor. ​What's wrong with the d3200?

Just wanted to say something about the Tokina 28-70mm f2.6-2.8 - On my full frame d600 it vignettes quite a lot when wide open and has heavy barrel distortion at the wide end. It it does however control flare and CA very well for a vintage lens. Also my copy is sharpest at f4 and fairly soft at f2.8

Loved this, Ed! Well done. Great imagery and you also have the perfect voice for this kind of piece. Did you use quite a high shutter speed or drop some frames to get that choppy feeling?

Does anyone know of a wide-angle, light weight (150 grams or less), Nikon-fit lens?

Maybe they have a cinema camera in the works and thats why they're holding back? Has to be the only explanation for this foolishness, right?

Really enjoyed the song and video, well done.

The m43 camera wins for detail, punchy colour, fine grain noise and lack of moire/aliasing. The Nikon FF wins for dynamic range (only when using the cineflat profile), natural colour and shallow DOF. It's just horses for courses. Both types of camera have their uses. Welcome to the forum BTW :)

Just an update to this post. I actually have ended up getting a D600 (for just £580!). Again just to reiterate it's mainly for photography as I have two nice AF lenses but I've been wondering about its capability in video. First of all, yes moire is very present. Haven't spotted any aliasing yet though. Noise is really bad. Very large and colourful 'grain'. With the same exposure settings, the highlight retention is worse than my Panasonic GX7. However things get a lot better when you load the Cineflat profile. You can use exposure values that technically mean you're underexposing, but in practice you're saving the highlights whilst bringing up the shadows naturally. With Panasonic cameras you can use iDynamic to raise shadows but the sensor never really 'sees' into the shadowed areas (because theyre underexposed), so the 'roll off' into blacks is quite steep. See attached images. Sorry about the boring subjects. I just had to do some quick tests because I'll be shooting a promo with the two cameras tomorrow.

Thanks ara. I've just been playing with it a little bit on my D600. I'm really not seeing any difference in the initial IQ or gradeability. And the inability to playback in-camera is a dealbreaker. Oh well

http://simeonpilgrim.com/nikon-patch/nikon-patch.html Does anyone know what "NQ old HQ" means?

To be fair, they're not bad for single-shot. So if your subject doesn't move it's usable. But if you are going to buy a monitor then better rely on that I am on the verge of getting a D600 myself. Mainly for photography but will be using it as a B-cam too. Maybe as an A cam in some situations actually as the colours and tonal range in the shadows is better than my Panasonic.