Brian Williams

Yeah, I haven’t shot raw since my days of the original BMPCC, and I will say that being able to change white balance after the fact is the best thing in the world. Just wish their was good hybrid that also did raw. Z6?

Honestly, I might just go back to one of the cameras I had before this, with E-M1mii or X-T3. Even the cheap G9 with its newest firmware is sounding good. Obviously not 12bit raw quality from any of them, but usability has taken on a new importance to me I think.

Take a look at rawshooter’s above posts, they encapsulate my feelings pretty well, on the stills sides. Even on the video side, I’m not liking how unforgiving and easy it is to clip the highlights, I feel like the dynamic range isn’t all that great as things end up really dark if you’re trying to save the highlights, and even though the raw is great for recovering those shadows, I feel like it’s coming out darker, straight out of camera, than it really should be. Maybe it’s user error, but I’m not seeing a great dynamic range.

If anyone of thinking about buying one, mine is up for sale- https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1627124/0?nc=1#15084662

Which means there’s not really a reason to assume that the camera is coming any day now.

This is mine, which works great- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9FVN3B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4Cq9Db25WQWGD

Btw, I got a slim SSD enclosure along with a Sabrent 1TB NVMe SSD and it works great, just need to figure out how to attach it to the bottom now.

Sorry, yes I don’t know what I was thinking, I meant SigRAW or FPRAW, basically proprietary “raw” like Blackmagic.

FPLog, or SigLog? Whatever they want to name it, but something similar to Blackmagic’s BRAW? That’s a workaround, right?

Oh yeah, I didn't even know that was a possibility- I want an answer to this too, having to manually add then layout the audio separately is a pain in the ass.

What resolution/crop are we talking about here? Because even now as I google it, everywhere I look I’m seeing it written that’s it’s as I remember it, either a b&w 7fps liveview, or a vertically stretched one. Is this something that was implemented recently? Are we talking 1:1 crop or a binning mode? I’m not trying to question anyone’s truth here, if what you say is correct, I’d be interested in giving ML another go. Yes, I realize the EOSM and 50D pale in comparison to the 5D, I only mention them to explain my usage of Magic Lantern, which is pretty similar across all compatible Canons, just better resolution and framerates (and apparently Liveview too) for some than for others. But they all can do dual iso, 14bit, etc, just to different effect.

Looks very nice, though I have to say that I don’t think this video shows particularly good dynamic range, though that could be the grade on it. But yes I know, you’re saying the FP doesn’t seem to show much more than this, if any improvement, I agree. Canon’s sensors aren’t typically rated the best, at least DXO-wise. Well going from upscaled 4K to actual 4K is an upgrade. (And I know a lot of people say 4K doesn’t matter to them, but even if you only care about HD, 4K downscaled to HD will certainly have somewhat better dynamic range than native HD, if the sensors are close). The last time I used magic lantern was maybe a year ago with the EOSM, and many years before that with the 50D, and I’m sure it’s a much much better experience with the 5D than that little EOSM camera, but the thing that drove me crazy and made it kind of unusable for me was the fact that the real-time preview during shooting was either a significant center crop or, if you wanted actual framing, the preview dropped to a low-framerate, B&W preview; both versions made it significantly hard to both compose and stay in focus. Is the 5D able to give a good real-time preview with proper composing?

So I just now got around to testing this- it seems that turning off the camera vs letting the auto power-save put the camera to sleep are basically the same thing, have the same effect on settings. If you in one of the Custom modes (C1, C2, C3) and you change a setting and let the camera turn off, then yes, when you turn it back on the settings will have changed to their default settings; which seems right to me, that’s how all programmable custom modes work on cameras, the whole point of them is to remember a specific setup of settings. The difference here is that the “sleep” mode is actually turning off the camera, or doing all the same things that turning off the camera does, instead of just pausing the camera as most cameras do when going to sleep. But in any of the other modes, PSAM, anything you set stays set that way the next time the camera turns on, whether you turned the camera off or if it went to “sleep”. This isn’t true, you can set any of the display modes to have zebras on, and this applies to both custom modes as well as PSAM modes. (I only now just discovered this in the menus). Again, it sucks, but you can’t have zebras and focus peaking on at the same time.

Its reducing it because it would, for example, shoot the even lines from the sensor at IOS 100, then take a second exposure immediately after of just the odd lines at ISO 1600, then merge them into one frame, blending the two exposures. And the sensor isn't setting the iso per line, rather Magic Lantern is taking two separate images, each using half the resolution (just even lines or just odd line). From ML- " its a trick that samples half of the sensor at ISO 100 and the other half at ISO 1600, for example. If you mix these two, you can get almost the entire dynamic range the sensor is capable of (around 14 stops)."

Lars, did you ever buy this? Also wondering if is fits under.

I just looked it up- “The LCD monitor is darkened to reduce battery use when the camera has not been operated for eight seconds.” Also, everyone here is running the updated firmware? I don’t have my camera here with me at the moment, so I can’t test, but I know you can’t use zebras if focus peaking is on.

Mine doesn’t forget anything. Whenever I turn back on, it’s in the same mode as I left it, with all video and still settings as they were before turning off. Now if I’m using one of the custom modes (which I do, C1 for stills and C2 for video) that does reset itself each time you go back to it, but that’s just the nature of custom modes in all cameras.

I tried the Lexar 1667x, but as expected it was too slow (was thinking that 250MB/s was write speed, not read). Thinking the 2000x would work, but haven’t seen it bigger than 128gb. They’re all sooo expensive.

Yes, but once you have that SSD strapped on, you can’t help but feel the pull of that 12bit calling out to you, it’s hard to resist. Yes, I did consider this quite a bit before leaving, but $50 is a lot for something I’m worried I will only use this once. Unless I get off my ass and start actually shooting things beyond just family videos. But to be honest, I brought a GoPro Max with me as well, and have probably shot 80% of my footage with that, just shows small and versatile wins out over bigger with better IQ sometimes, and this is in comparison to the smallest FF you can get. This overcapture footage really is a lot of fun to play around with, after the fact, even if I look like an ass when shooting it.

Having recently gone from X-T3 to the FP, and the fact that I’m on holiday in Denmark with my family at the moment with the FP, I’d say go for the X-T3. Not to say I’m disappointed with the FP at all, but the fact that I’m having to edit all the day’s footage each night in Resolve so that I can clear out the T5 for the next day’s footage isn’t the most convenient. And having the T5 strapped to the camera also takes away from the compactness of the camera. And I’d even be willing to shoot with the internal 8bit for the sake of losing the SSD, but, damn, fast sd cards are so much more expensive for way less capacity than the T5. Plus, for stills, at night, the FP’s AF isn’t ideal.

I don't have mine with me at the moment to check this, but I'm pretty sure you can't, you have to set the focus point first, then zoom in, and once there you can't change the position until you zoom back out and move the focus point. I'll confirm this tonight. Which sucks, yes.

Math is hard.

yeah, the bad half... ? True, but you'd have to ask the Norwegians about that, as they made that decision. The US is heading for cultural collapse?? So says the non-American.

I’m curious to know which SSDs will work with the camera; I know Sigma said only the Samsung T5’s greater than 250gb’s would be officially supported at this point, but I’m sure others can work.

Having some experience with raspberry pi's, out of curiosity, how exactly were you able to use one to create an HDMI-in enabled EVF?