ajay

Possible work-around from removing the button battery? Horshack on the DP thread thinks that you can trick the camera by overriding the battery door switch and pulling out the battery. This prevents the camera from going into a normal shut-down and it loses its settings. Something to try Andrew? https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64283375

There once was a camera built on deceit Who's video features were said to be sweet. But amongst all the clamor, Came Canon's Cripple Hammer, And now we know it really doesn't overheat.

Another question, was the camera allowed to reach the ambient temperature of the fridge prior to powering on the camera? It would seem that the camera would need to be chilled for at least 2 hours before conducting the test. (The starting EXIF temperature reading should have been close to the temperature of the refridgerator prior to the start of the test.)

So...let me play the devil's advocate here and make sure nothing is being overlooked with Andrew's latest test: Do we know with absolute certainty that Canon is using the EXIF temperature data to determine when to shut down the camera? For example, what if there is a temperature sensor on the back of the sensor itself? That sensor is floating w/o a heat sink. It very well could overheat while the remainder of the camera stays warm but not hot. It appears wifi was enabled during the test. This typically generates more heat. Why did temperatures remain constant while wifi was operating. I would think they would rise even in a fridge. Again, are we missing some other temperature sensor in this camera other than what's being reported by EXIF data? Andrew states "Overheat control was turned off in the menus, as I find it makes little difference to video mode and shouldn’t be needed in a fridge." I don't understand why this option was turned off. Why not give the camera every opportunity not to overheat when in stand-by mode? Please note: I'm not trying to stir the pot here. Just trying to do a check-and-balances to make sure the test hasn't overlooked some other possibilities. Troubleshooting requires reducing the number of variables.

I believe it has the same tracking as the A9, A9II, A7RIV and the newer crop-sensor cameras. Touch-to-track a subject. (Using the touch screen.) I wish the end of September would get here.

I get that. But just like other Sony cameras using Clear Image Zoom, I would think (and hope) it will do some form of autofocus but w/o eye AF and no tracking.

Are you sure about this? I had heard that it disables eye and tracking AF, but didn't disable AF completely.

Crap! That's what I have. Hopefully this will be resolved before I get my camera. Thanks for the info and if you don't mind, please be sure to let us know what you find out as far as a resolution to this. I'm also a PRO Support member. Maybe I will contact them as well.

Well...At least the variables are being whittled down. It's all part of the process of understanding the Canon cripple hammer.

The thing that is the most frustrating is that they created a camera that is mind-blowingly good and purposefully crippled it as to not compete with their cinema line. The design was certainly intentional. They very easily could have used a similar design like the S1H to keep it from overheating but chose not to. I don't know how you could file a claim against them however since they have publicly stated the camera's limitations. If they hid the limitations, yes you might have a case but since they told you before you bought it that it had limitations, they've covered their butt.

Yes. There appears to be multiple parameters being calculated for different modes. It's crazy that you can record externally and get the camera super hot, insert a CF Express chip and get a full record limits. It's got to be ignoring the internal temperature of the camera. Makes no sense at all.

Here's some info about the Delkin CFExpress Card regarding thermal throttling: "Thermal Throttling The purpose of thermal throttling is to prevent components in a SSD from over-heating during read and write operations. Delkin’s CFexpress is designed with an on-die thermal sensor and with its accuracy, firmware can apply different levels of throttling to achieve the purpose of protection efficiently and proactively via SMART reading."

Is it basing it's ability to shoot by reading the temperature of the CFxpress Card?

With any 10-bit camera (if you know what you are doing) you should have plenty of latitude to create just about any color scheme you want. All it takes is someone who knows what they are doing to create a LUT that matches the color you are hoping to achieve. I have to stress however that it takes someone who knows what they are doing. There is no doubt that straight out of the camera, skin colors do not have the magenta that Canon has that people have a tendency to like. It certainly is achievable however. What I've mostly seen online so far with the A7SIII is mostly straight-out-of-camera looks. Gerald Undone has a new video up today that explains what most people do with their log footage. They attempt to add saturation and contrast and they think that's good enough. Well...it's not good enough.

Get a case of it. In all seriousness, everyone so far has tried to cool the camera down externally and not internally. If you want to be absolutely, positively be sure that Canon is using the cripple hammer, it would be best to chill down the camera ASAP and retest record limits. Don't wait hours. Don't try putting it in the freezer. By getting the circuit boards chilled within minutes will give you a definitive answer to whether Canon is intentionally crippling the camera. Do we know for sure there is only one temperature sensor in the camera? Maybe Canon is reading the temperature of a different component other than the one in your experiment. I'm not trying to be a jerk about this, but we need a secondary test to prove beyond a doubt that Canon is intentionally crippling this camera. This is truly a big deal. Chilling the circuit boards directly and rapidly will prove this out. (Last post on this. I don't mean to keep repeating this but I do feel it's important. I'm done.)

I thought that too at first but when testers were able to get the camera to run for extended periods using an external recorder, it made me believe the sensor temperature isn't the problem.

Another option not as drastic and would take longer to cool the camera down is to use a spray can of air duster. It also cools down when releasing the air. Again spraying it in the card slot would probably be the best place.

You can buy this stuff on Amazon here in the states: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Freeze-Electronic-Component-FR-777-777/dp/B000Z99ZCA/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=freeze+spray&qid=1597265368&sr=8-7 This will chill down the camera within seconds if you can get the nozzle near enough to the circuit boards. Through the memory card slot ought to do it.

I will try this one more time with another cooling idea to get to the bottom of this: Get the camera to overheat. Have the back open with everything still connected. (Just enough to apply coolant spray.) Use a can of freeze spray and chill down the components. (Better than a fan.) Check again to see if the camera recovered or still shows an overheating condition. If the camera still doesn't work and shows an overheating status, you know you've got some kind of firmware clock controlling the overall functionality of the camera. If the camera works as if it had been off for two hours, then you know it truly is heat related and the camera just takes a long time to cool down. It's a simple test that should get to the bottom of this. All that's required is for someone to loosen some screws and slightly open the camera. Enough to get a spray can nozzle inside. This should prove if Canon is playing games with the firmware. Note: It might even be possible to spray the memory card slot (w/o the card) to cool the camera downs w/o taking out one screw. Somebody with the camera needs to pick up a can of freeze spray! (I used to do component level repair and we used this stuff all the time for heat-related problems.)

Totally agree. Who wants to test this??? Andrew???🤔

I'm not a lawyer, but I find it difficult to believe that they could be open to litigation. They aren't harming anyone (other than messing with our heads) are they? The best thing is to kick them in the pants by not buying their cripple-hammered products.

How about opening the back of the unit w/o disconnecting anything. Blow air across the inside of the camera using a small muffin fan and record as you normally would. The temperature should definitely stay cooler. Check run times and recovery times. If it's crippled by firmware, times shouldn't change. If recovery times are drastically reduced, it is strictly their way of managing the temperature of the camera. My guess is, it's probably both. But it would be interesting to see how a fan blowing directly on the components changes things.

What if they made an adjustment that gave you 45min of 4k HQ, 8k at 25min and4k 120p at 20min and recovery time at 60 minutes max. Would that be enough? This is all kind of silly if they do. It would still be crippled and everyone would be trying to calculate if it would be usable or not. Why are we even messing with Canon at this point? Not worth the frustration.

It will then be an admission by Canon themselves.

If they do increase the record limits, then we will have real proof this is a smoke and mirrors trick by Canon.