Nikkor

It's a f**king joke, a few lines of code, and a small heatsink would have made this a professional cinema camera (image quality wise), certainly the best for the buck. If they don't come up with a D4c it just doesn't make any sense to me. A D4 4K Prores and compressed raw + D400 with the same specs but in APS-C would have made great sports,wildlife and cinema lineup for the next years to come, only surpassed by double exposure sensors. I mean, everybody has nikkor glass, and only nikkor glass fits on them. They could build a nice market to make up for the losses.

The G6 has some strange artifacts, the d5300 looks great. I'm kinda suprised it looks so good.

But it still seems to me like a joke for a 6500$ camera. They have XQD cards which can write from 125megabyte/s to 400. If they had spent 2 days coding they could have come up with 1080p compressed raw. Let's see if the 24fps continuous raw works longer than 20secs.

The D4 and D800 already have aperture control in live view. 42MBps, that is mega bits? Ridiculous.

Fist one standart codec, second one 65mbps. 200% zoom.

Well Simeone gave this answer: https://nikonhacker.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1779&start=60#p11792 who knows, they removed timelimitation on the d800 so maybe it's similar. Btw,they are saying that the video is 4:2:2, or at least the live view feed. http://simeonpilgrim.com/nikon-patch/nikon-patch-beta.html [update] d3100 and d800 coming next: https://nikonhacker.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1790 We got lucky :D, I'll try it first with the d7000.

The guys over at nikon hacker have managed to change the bitrate options on many nikon cameras. Higher bitrates produce cleaner movements, cleaner shadows, clean details. The result is an image that can take more grading and sharpening without producing artifacts. http://nikonhacker.com/ Current hacks (video related): Nikon Patch v1.18.1 BETA (26/02/2014) current limitations : -recording time is reduced (2x bitrate, 1/2 recordingtime) -on-camera playback of videofiles does only work with lower bitrates and depends on card speed although it is not perfectly clear. (green has been tested on actual hardware, orange has not been tested, red is experimental,pink is nonfunctional) No guarantee, strictly at your own risk I will try to keep the list up to date, check the nikonhacker for latest news.

Actually there are a few things in Resolve that are destructive, I saw some videos about it when the ML raw happened.

The speed might be multiple of 50 but the readout is continuous with every line offset a very small fraction of a second. At 50 cycles per second with 1/50 you will always catch one whole wavelength even if you don't catch it at the same place the sum will be the same, from that point flickering will start because you just catch fractions of the wavelength and each line advances X seconds into the harmonic function and will have a different lightvalue. At 1/100 it might not be too visible but when you start goin up you see it more and more, you actually can see how it grows and how the flicker gradiant shows perfectly the harmonic function. You can see something similar at slomo soccer game replays, the readouts on these cameras are very fast and instead of variations on the same frame you get variations between frames.

I guess it's rolling shutter. The sensor reads from top to bottom. I guess the V1 doesn't give you this because the readout is very fast. This happens in still cameras if you use electronic shutter -> rolling shutter.

There is this thing called aperture. For Nikon lens with aperture control F-stop ring and your adapter won't let you controll it, since you have a G type lens it lacks the aperture dial, so the aperture remains closed and everything dark. You need an adapter with aperture ring. I believe this one should work, ask google before buying: http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-Olympus-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B003Y2XN9G/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393164517&sr=1-7&keywords=nikon+m43

Another way to see it, if you only have photografic background, is to compare it with enlarging (it's somehow similar). Let's say you have a good enlarger and a bad enlarger and are trying to make a good black and white. Enlargers are not digital, so with the bad enlarger lens you get some kind of interpolation but you won't reach certain tonalities of the grain that you will reach with the good enlarger.

It means that this is no magical cure for banding. Once you compress your 8bit range to get out the dark bits into safe zone and highlights you end up with even less range which gives you even more banding, and banding affects more than 4pixel clusters so you will still have it.

If you have 4 pixels with the same value (there is noise so this isn't going to happen), you will get the same value afterwards. And that value was obviously just an rounup into 8bit, so it's not the same as the one you would get with 10bit. Obviously it's not the same as taking 10bit directly.

At iso 100 the d800 has great DR. But you won't get any of that in video, I tried to do several picture styles that resembel log styles but I never got the highlights to roll off well. Also keep in mind that the camera skips lines which sort of removes dynamic range = noisy shadows. The codec does the rest.

If you want raw and 1080p you need a fast CF card that gives you 100MB/s or more. Regardless of the SD card's speed the 5d mkiii is limited to 20MB/s or so when using only SD cards.

It might have video mode. The body shots show no record button (the green one was already on the 645D). It is a 44x33 sensor so the difference to FF isn't that big anyway.

For homevideos that's perfectly fine if not better than 24p. Any television plays 30p and you certainly won't broadcast over PAL TV your fathers golden wedding or your sisters birthday -homevideos-

The only cameras suited for home movies are the olympus with 5axis stabilisation. In fact, the olympus are better suited for stills than any camera out there (except for FullFrames), the stabilisation is not only great for video and it surpasses the speed advantage of aps-c. Things like this make DSLRs look old, not some video mode only a few need.Consumer 4K will come soon enogh, with horrible compression ofcourse.

So the chinese don't work 24/7, hah, bubble will burst soon.

The baby mode is very important and you know it. When you have a baby, you buy a DSLR (you don't want to buy some random small cheap camera for something that is only going to happen once).

I don't have a gh2, but I have seen a lot of videos and they look "great" to me, some say it's videoish but I think you can work around it by planning better your shots and scenes. I liked the 50D video, the motion blur of uncompressed files is great (although some people say the motion looks so so because the camera gives 30p and the 24fps mode is just some sort of hack). There is also moirée, you can sort of fix it in post but it's not always an option. You can also film in 2,4x something crop mode (5x zoom) wich is an effective 4x crop mode over Full Frame, this gives you full 1080p without moirée but turns your 50mm 1.4 into a 200mm 5.6, so you will need a 12mm f4 that will become an effective 48mm f16, not so great eh. In crop mode with 1080p you will get around 2000-3000frames, something like 2minutes. The big plus is color and highlight recovery, but that's it. I like some stuff I shot with it, but only because of the colors/looks I achieved, the shots themselfs are shit because it's just not confrotable to shoot. In the end it's just too many inconvieniences, Personally I can't shoot something while thinking of technical stuff that has nothing to do with image creation. Looking at the buffer, filling the card while shooting, review stuff looking at pixelated shit,etc... On the 50d there is also no sound... the controls are horrible. And your harddrive full of terabytes of raw videos. I would go through all that stuff, but with the 5d mkiii. The quality that the 50D gives is just not good enough, and it's not full frame (I only have full frame glass, beside one shitty DX wideangle). Do whatever you want with your GH2, just don't buy a 50D. The 50D is for photographers.

The 50D raw is very cumbersome, no sound, and a lot more inconveniencies. I bought one to try raw but I'm going to sell it again as it's gathering dust at home. The gh2 is much better, if you want raw get the bmpcc with speedbooster (although that's already past your budget)

The next gh won't be 8K,the next trend is high dynamic range 16bit isoless sensors.