Nikkor

So no internal 10bit 4:2:2, fuck that, maybe someone comes up with a small hdmi recorder without a shitty screen like the ninja.

worst advice ever, camcorder for architecture? Are you kidding? Distorsion and no lens choices, ridiculous advice.

And some great photos were taken with 35mm cameras with shitty slow film and horrible lenses, sure. But this whole talk about "gear doesn't matter" is as inteligent as asuming that using shitty gear will bring you closer to "art". All these videos people use to post as examples are just that vimeo style which is just artsy, consumed very fast and forgotten forever 5 minutes later, they rely on wow effects, shallow pathetic emotional stories (it's an american problem, and they are exporing it to the rest of the world) and are on the same artistic level as smooth 4K steady cam shots. ¿Tree of Life, anyone? or this 2 hour long vimeo story called "Her". So I honestly ,I don't see the point on arguing about content when in fact you just talk about formality, because style is formality, and on the same level -from an art point of view- as tecnicalities, they both compensate. I haven't seen any artist around here so just get off your high horses, this is a gear forum.

Forget about that camcorder, go for the GH4 (you can use your 12-24 nikkor with a speedbooster and have the same fov as on the d5300, although you should check for experiences of people using that particular lens with a speedbooster). The best for arquitecture would be to dump the d5300, 12-24, and buy a 5d mkiii with the TS 24 mkii, and TS 17. It's the only lens I really envy of the canon guys (maybe nikon decides to come up with a revision of the 24 PC-E but probably not). That particular setup of corrected perspective+raw video could make some serious good looking shots, it's also great to record in 3:2.

It's going to be great but it's still a micro 4/3 chip with shitty Dynamic Range so it's not a cinema camera, but for anything indie, or anything that needs to deliver steady quality content this is sort of a game changer (if black magic cameras wouldn't exist the impact for indie would be much greater) Downsampled 4K simply looks amazing, just look at the nikon v1 videos.

Imagine they announce it and it suddenly has multiaspect sensor (1,83 crop), 4:3 recording and olympus style stabilization, haha.

That's not going to happen. "- it will be switch-able from 4K and 1080P with various frame rates (can shoot 120fps at 1080P for example)" Lets hope 4K and 120fps are 4:2:2 10bit but I doubt it, maybe with external recorder. Oh btw, it might be sub 2000$ but look at the cards: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/963983-REG/panasonic_aj_p2m064ag_64gb_microp2_fast_memory.html http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/964013-REG/panasonic_aj_p2m032ag_32gb_microp2_memory_card.html

I was hyped when I first saw the A7r and was ready to dump my d800 in favor of it, but when I held it in my hands it didn't make any sense to me. Fullframe glass is big, especially tele and zooms, the a7r body is too small for this, and the ergonomics don't work out, even the d800 is too small for a lot lenses, the D3,D4 body is perfect. You also have to buy into the system if you want autofocus and I'm certanly not buying into a sony lens lineup. Maybe if they come up with some fancy medium format speed booster I will consider one.

Ok, GH4 confirmed to be awesome ;).

Great shots Sebastien, like all what you have been sharing. Btw, how do you manage to focus handheld so well ?

Well if they manage to do 4K with 10bit and 4:2:2 and 25fps they can also do the same with 1080p @ 100fps unless the sensor is slow, but since it's m43 they should be able to do it.

The gh4 is coming and obviously for aerial stuff 4K is important (unless it's just some artsy stuff). But you haven't said anything about the way you want to shoot, if the flying device has no stabilization, how you are supposed to control the shooting,etc... I think you should ask on a forum where people work on aerial stuff. Without knowing anything about what you want to do I would say go for the gh4, if you need something right now go for the g6. The Nex has very bad video, lineskipping is a no-go for fine detail and aerial stuff is all about detail.

I guess it's not possible but it doesn't hurt to ask. I have a Pentax 67 lens which has a 80 something mm flange distance. If I take a speed booster could I adapt it to a aps-c nikon camera which has 45mm. I keep reading that the speed booster needs to be close to the lens, but I don't know if this is only because of flange distance or just because the optical design has to be close to give quality. Maybe if someone has some Medium Format lens which is not retro focal and a speed booster could try to handhold both and see if it focuses on a paper at 7/10-9/10 of the original focus distance.

Don't use lenses for mounts with shorter flange distance than the one of your camera. Maybe there is someone who can change the lens mount for you to make it shorter.

I don't want to intrude your post but anyway... ;) Check out this "ULF speed booster", well its an dof adapter but heh (14"x14")

Most important for me would be FF compatibility. But a lot better would be a speed booster to go from medium format to full frame ;)

4K is 4 times the amount of pixels. Most DSLR's have readouts optimized for low readout noise, when it comes to readout speed they are so slow that they can only read one third of their lines (moiré). Some sensors are fast enough but don't have the processing power, bandwidth or whatever.

To the left of the USB plug. My D3 certainly has no circular plug on the left side, although it could be DC IN. Just had a look at the D4 and it has the same plug, so it's no-sdi.

If it's going to be that cheap it's very probable, specially having in mind what they said about "modular system", that the 10bit 4:2:2 4K will need some sort of external recorder or whatsoever.

Is that round plug a SDI? 10bit 4K 4:2:2 or even Raw with ultra low light, great DR,FullFrame, 120fps 1080p, 6000$. Would be nice, heh.

Whoa, I hope it's true.

You could select matrix metering and tell the camera to underexpose 1 stop, then watch your exposure meter on the top lcd screen (or wherever the d5300 shows that info) and keep it at 0. Or use any other photographic technique that does not rely on live-view/playback. The link shows how to use the profiles, the gamma adjustment just makes everything normal again so you don't need to tweak everyshot, but this only works with these profiles (not with flaat or mine).

You can crank up the sharpening in any profile. There are also the gamma profiles, shoot with the profile to preserve DR and just add some gamma correction to the whole thing to bring it back to normal. http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?303215-Nikon-Gamma-Controls-v0-1-Beta-Test

I'm glad it will serve you sometime. I created it while trying to recreate on the d800 an adobe preset for my raw stuff, but the nikon tool won't let you make a linear curve and adjust it to S so the highlights don't roll off nicely. It compresses a lot and in 8bit you loose a lot of information, it's also a pain to remind yourself that you are underexposing a lot, which results in lost blacks sometimes with some banding. The color is also so compressed that you might get banding or poor color. So make shure to test it more ;) Personally, and specially when starting with a picture style like this one, I apply the LUT on top with an adjustment layer (after effects), or with LUT option in Resolve. Then I do whatever I like till it pleases me (a lot of times I just add some saturation or do nothing -with the kodak and fuji luts-).

4:3 full sensor video-mode (if the sensor is 4:3, 3:2 is also ok), perfect for anamorphic and portrait-videos (you can't really do that with 16:9, but it's going to be a trend)