jase

looks interesting, but i am not willing to spend 800 euros for now... cant find it, would you help me out?

Interesting conversation about the H1 because I was thinking for getting it as well. I am only interested in ambient sounds, no interviews or whatsoever - do you guys still think that mounting the H1 on the hotshoe is an acceptable compromise? I want to keep things small.

Canon FD is the mount with the shortest flange distance for which a speedbooster exists to my knowledge, to answer your question. You could now check whether there exists adapters lets say from FD to EOS, etc... Nikon is one of the mounts with the longest flange distance, so you wont be able to adapt as much lenses as with a shorter mount like FD or EF.

Thanks for your valuable comments, much appreciated! I think I will go down the path that @mercer has suggested: by a cheap one, see if it fits my style and then upgrade eventually. Out of curiosity: why did that happen? I mean if you have Zebras at 100% switched on and use the ND to get the right exposure although wanting a thin DOF, then this should be easily avoided or do I miss something? Well, feel free to check my stuff on vimeo (see signature) - at least i have a hard time finding something that looks horrific.

I had the same question, see here: Long story short: bought the device, used it and now everything is totally fine, yet this freakin Sony..

Looks totally fine. Is your TV a Sony by chance? Having this issue as well, but only on this Sony TV. A Philips one is fine though.

Looks great! I liked the greens very much. Which profile did you use? Sky at 01:00 looks very purple, but other than that.. great! The music freaks me out btw

Currently I am using my camera in such a way, that I set the aperture by myself and let the camera take care about ISO (maxed to a certain value) as well as shutterspeed. For doing run & gun this works quite well, yet I would like to have more control about the exposure, e.g. being able to properly over and/or underexpose when I think this is necessary. Call me ignorant, but I dont really care about the correct shutter angle rule for proper motion cadence - I just dont notice it that much and my audience even less. So, i see two options: 1. Let the camera take care about setting the exposure as described above and use the exposure compensation feature to change exposure. By doing so, i am limited to 2-3 steps of over/underexposure, since the control doesnt allow much more. This is also rather limiting when setting Zebras to 70% and exposing for skin tones, for example. Also, in very bright sunlight even the highest shutterspeed is not enough to having a proper exposure, although this happens not very often due to the high shutter speed of the GX80. 2. Get a ND filter (in my case this would be a VND for sure), set the shutter speed fixed to a certain value and then use the ND to do a proper exposure. By doing so I dont need to use the exposure compensation dial anymore (is that right?) since i completely control exposure via the ND filter - at least in bright light cases, where a ND is necessary, otherwise I could simply not use it and still set aperture and shutter to a fixed value and letting the camera do the ISO setting (if i want it do so). However, at the beginning it would slow me down since i have to set the focus (MF) AND the correct exposure. Still, I think one can master this with some practice. Am i missing something or worse, are my assumptions wrong?

Looks on first sight exactly what I am looking for. On second sight it does not accept 1080p@50/60fps(?) and those CFast cards are ... expensive.

I am wondering whether this is such a thing as as a simple ProRes recorder without display or anything that just takes the HDMI feed and dumps it as ProRess on SD or SSD? Something with a very simple interface like the GoPro's?

I cant confirm that. I am using 1080p and ex tele converter and on my GX80, the preview is always sharp once i focus.

Anyone using the GX85 with a metabones Canon EF speedbooster other than @Andrew Reid? I really would like to go down this route for evaluation purposes, together with the awesome Canon 35 2.0 IS - yet Andrews review really puts me off (switching the OIS off also switches off the IBIS which is a showstopper). I also emailed Metabones whether they can confirm Andrews findings and if yes, whether they will bring an update, but they remain silent..

Sigma 30 would be my dream lens speedboosted on the GX80 - however the bad close focus abilities prevent me from buying it

Thanks! honestly, i never use a ND filter ever and just bump up the shutter. i dont feel experienced enough to handle ND *and* MF at the same time - my subjects are not giving me the time I would need for such a proper composition. Yet that would also not represent the way I use my gear - since I see it more as a tool that should help me capture what i see within an instant - thats also the reason why i just set my GX80 to Aperture Priority with custom set WB and let the camera take care of the rest, with some exposure compensation sometimes of course. and yes, i only shoot 1080p/50. I love the 4k image, but I love slowmo even more than it. Still, i am amazed what kind of quality Panasonic manages to pack into just 27mbit..

thats not what i meant - i didnt discover any relationship between NR and sharpness, i just like it a tad sharper, while -5 gives me already at iso's like 800+ a fine grain, but thats by no means a scientific test.

Guys, no offense but could we get back to topic please which is the GX80? we have bmmc topics, we have the "5 reasons why i will get the gh5" topic by andrew reid, etc. it starts to get annoying that every thread here on the last couple of pages gets derailed into offtopic - which is a pitty, because the offtopic stuff is most often valuable enough to start dedicated posts (which i encourage you to create, so that others will participate!) yet i would like to receive email notifications about ontopic related stuff

After some more real world tests i have changed from -5/-5/-5/-5 to -5/-5/0/-5. i like the sharpness more at 0 while having noise reduction still at -5 so that it adds more often this subtle panasonic grain while turning off filmconvert grain completely. currently i am playing with standard vs. natural with otherwise same settings as mentioned above. my current findings are that they look very similar on first sight, yet on second sight, the natural settings has more details in the shadows and less saturated reds. I still have to find out whether i like that and give natural a try for my next shot.

Especially the BMPCC tempts me all the time, but I always tell me not to buy it because there is no such a lens that offers me IS at maximum 50mm FF equivalent while being F2.0 or lower... Especially for POV they need quite wide lenses due to the crop factor.. how do they keep them stabilized? cant be without rigging? And in case when the BMPCC used, this means they upscale 1080p to sth like 4K?

signed!

Wow, thank you, really appreciating it, Inazuma!

I am from Germany, so i bought it at Amazon.de, you also find them on ebay. Tiffen Ultra Contrast 3!

Andy, could you comment on why you dont set sharpness and noise reduction to any negative value but left it at 0?

Nope, I am using the filter on all lenses i have currently. Just love it.

Paired with the right lens there shouldnt be too much difference between m43 and FF, but everyone as he likes I just would not invest that money into an a7 body if i knew that i also want to use it a lot for video.

Yet if you have 600 bucks to spend for a body, I would go the GX85 route and use the rest (maybe plus a little add) for a cheap focal reducer et voila, you got your background blurs while having a better camera for video.