jase

Damn this gimbal is crazy. Total different league to the Beholder MS1, which I tried and hated.

This lens is one of the main reasons for the m43, at least from my perspective. The compactness yet outstanding results even in lowlight are unmatched. Whenever I want to be really compact, I am using that lens and it never disappoints.

Many people use this combo, so the answer is a definitive yes.

Just to be more precise, when I half press the shutter to focus, the aperture stays fully open. Only when i press the shutter button to take the picture, the aperture is stepped down during exposure and then switches back to be fully open.

Just did it, sorry for being a bit harsh. Let me describe what I did: i have set the lens to Aperture mode and then to f16 (maximum of my lens). The lens is still wide open. I press the shutter button, the aperture (e.g. the blades of the lens) switch to f16 and after the picture is taken, the aperture is again wide open. I can provide you with a video if you want me to.

if you would take your time and read the last two pages of this thread, you would have an answer to your question. If you dont want to: the answer to your question is yes, I can confirm this with a Panasonic 20mm lens.

Exactly thats the behaviour on the GX85 if constant preview is set to OFF. Regardless what aperture you set, it the lcd shows it wide open.

Would you care to share some examples in the corresponding thread?

Thanks for that, I will give the GH3 profile a try!

Thanks for that piece of information, I contacted them as well

GX85 works just fine with the filmconvert GH4 profile, see my videos. I shoot in standard.

Now I only need to find out why in P mode i still only get the largest aperture, also when pointing it into a very bright light source. But maybe there is just another option I forgot about this one as well

Oh boy, I think you might be right.. Just run a quick test and it looks like that was it. Embarassing...

Wont work. Guess I have to call support tomorrow.

I did all that. Did the reset numerous times and according to the Panasonic website, you cant update the firmware again if the version already matches.

Ok now it gets super weird: if i go into the movie mode with Aperture priority, it works again - but not in the normal A or M mode for photo...

Did that already, didnt help

Correct. I first thought it is the speedbooster, but on my Panasonic 20mm the behaviour is exactly the same I also removed the battery now for one hour, not helping at all. I am afraid there might be something wrong with the body.

What do you mean by that? The mount lock on camera side is fine, once i put the lens on, it makes the usual click and everything is tight.

While running some tests I noticed, that somehow the aperture within the lens doesnt change anymore although the camera tells me on screen, that the aperture is changed. I tried different lenses, same result. Even did a complete factory reset, still no aperture change anymore...? Someone ever had such a problem? I checked the contacts within the lens mount, all pins are fine and clean.

Some more tests, this time without the Tiffen Ultra Contrast filter. Std 0/-5/-5/-5 Std -5/-5/-5/-5 Both shots have just some small exposure adjustments so that highlights wont clip and shadows are not crushed. I am torn between both. Colors are in general very accurate on both. When I compare what I see on my screen with what is next to me on the table, both match it pretty well. The first shot with contrast set to 0 is even better, for example when i compare the blue from the cup. However, when contrast is set to -5, there are more details in the shadow (see above the orange. I yet have to see how much different both have on skin.

I have the 20mm and it doesnt show the distance scale with numbers. P.S.: long time no see, nice to have you back.

I downloaded the 4k file and made some screencaps for anyone who is interested: To me, they are pretty near to each other, e.g. I dont seen any night / day like difference (if you guys do, maybe thats actually a thing that I dont see it, means I am easier to please :D). However, I believe that the highlight rolloff and shadow detail is best on Contrast -2, but then again I stared at those screencaps for quite some time...

Well, the speedbooster glas has like 34mm diameter if I would have to guess. Also, it sits some millimeters within the adapter, so the filter glas wont touch the speedbooster glas. The effect of the ultra contrast is now much less as when mounted on the lens thread as normally. I started a seperate thread for this, were Brian already commented:

Hi @Andrew Reid, i bought your Procolor package and I cant reproduce the great results other people got (yet) - so maybe I am doing something wrong. Could you help me out? This shot is with your recommended settings, OOC: And this is after I applied your LUT: Obviously color is subjective, but I dont really like it. So i started tweaking it - I made the white table in the left down corner white again and I dialed down saturation. The result is much better, but if one watches the blown out highlights in the window it becomes apparent, that they are even more blown out now: Did I maybe just overread something? The GX85 has no luminance level setting (if I am not mistaken) and I am using FCPX.