jonpais

Dan doesn't even say what his budget is, not sure why he's being so coy...

I've got the Rode VideoMic Pro, the Rode Stereo Microphone, a Sony audio recorder and a Yeti Blue USB mic. Nothing high end. But nothing beats a high end mic for sound quality, you can check out any number of YT videos and hear for yourself the difference a moderately expensive high quality mic can make in your videos. It's not like a matter of opinion, the difference is striking. But in my experience with low-end microphones, you'll only be disappointed in crap cheap mics, you really need an operator with the mic on a boom pole positioned properly to get the best sound. So I ended up getting two RodeLink Filmmaker kits, it's not cheap, and there are certainly better wireless microphone solutions out there, but it's the first time I'm satisfied with the sound. Skimping on things like lenses and microphones is not a good idea, a couple of years down the road, you'll only end up regretting it and getting something better and wish that you hadn't recorded so many videos with poor audio. I would save up to at least get some good microphones. Shirozina is right: there are no good and cheap microphones.

I just shot this with direct light hitting the lens, zebras filled the window to the left, mixed daylight/tungsten. Lumix G85, CineLike D, ISO 800, Leica DG Summilux at f/1.4, SOOC. Edit: Incidentally, the footage at ISO 800 is noisy as f***, I'd never go beyond that with the G85.

Not really, I made the same mistake as you in the beginning.

BTM could answer better than I can, since I haven't hacked anything in my life. My only experience was with the GH4, where I saved Vlog in one of the custom settings, and I experienced the same thing you're experiencing. Whenever the camera went to sleep, I had to reset white balance and aperture all over again.

haha. It's very atmospheric.

The same happens when I saved settings to custom on my GH4 and now on my G85. I don't believe there's any way to get the camera to remember the settings used just before the camera goes to sleep. Which is why I never use custom any more.

I'm viewing on my iPhone, but looks pretty good!

Have you shot Cinelike D?

For interviews, I don't think you'd want to place the microphone on camera. As close to the speaker's mouth as possible.... I think even a lesser mic positioned properly is going to give better results than the best mic in the world that's too far from the subject.

I go with insane.

Any reason why it should cost less? Do you believe Canon isn't offering enough features for the money, or is it your budget constraints? Because we all dream stuff cost less. I'd like Sigma to charge $2,000 for their cine lenses, but that ain't happening anytime soon. I'm not taking sides, I've got no intention of picking up a cinema camera anytime soon, but it seems to me that the C200B is a great deal at only $5,999.00 USD.

How about when you reduce levels on the microphone or mixer by -10 dB or -20 dB? Is this something to be concerned about?

Where did you see info about Sony releasing a full frame cinema camera?

Not a great example I guess.

I'm not sure why you believe underexposing by 1/2 stop is desirable, but here's what you asked for anyway - two different shots, one with the histogram bunched up to the left, the other exposed slightly to the right. Because of the strange way this website handles uploaded media, the images may appear darker than the originals and the colors will probably have changed as well. Before anyone says they prefer the warmer color of the first screen grab, be aware that I white balanced the two shots differently. Edit: I read your comment again and realized that's not what you requested. But I'm not sure why anyone would prefer underexposed shots to correctly exposed ones, so it's kind of baffling to me. If you shoot video, you know that it's always best to start with as much information as possible, then to pull midtones and shadows down in post. If the blown out buildings in the background of the second shot are distracting, the solution is to change the vantage point or shoot at a different time of day, not to give less exposure. Lifting shadows in post only leads to noise and possibly banding. But you already knew that I presume.

Why do you want to purchase outdated tech? The Nebula 4000 is just plain awful. Have you looked at the Zhiyun Crane?

I do care what you think, I like the colors as well, the skin tones look great (but like I said, I'm viewing it on my iPhone), but I'm wondering whether this is SOOC or graded.

I knew for certain that you would rush to contradict me. What's the matter with you? Gotta love the three exclamation points for emphasis. I'm not seeing anything here showing the greater dynamic range possible with Cinelike D. It could just as well have been shot with Standard. Wonder why only one person has shared an actual video up till now...

Automatic shutter? Do you mean you're shooting video using aperture priority? I'm seeing this on my iPhone, but it looks underexposed. Is this straight out of the camera?

Not sure why you've decided on this focal length, what it is you shoot, or why you'd want to lug all that weight around, but I'd go native - maybe the Panasonic 35-100 f/2.8.

From Paul Leeming's Facebook page: A couple of ETTR examples from a feature film I shot a while ago which is just now hitting the festival circuit, called "The Trade", showing how ETTR allows for great shadow control with no noise. Knowing what you want to do with your image to achieve the end result when shooting, really helps once you actually get to post ;) These were shot with the GH4 in Portrait profile (before I ever made the first LUT, but was still shooting ETTR because I knew the benefits for post). And this from the Luminous Landscape "Why are we still using 100 year-old exposure technology?"

In the forums, someone can say they shoot exclusively vivid profile, recommend raising master pedestal +10 with all settings at -5, swear by idynamic or e-stabilization, or espouse increasing shutter speeds to 1/250 of a second rather than using an ND filter and no one will bat an eye. People can write any nonsense they like, such as even with sharpening set at -5, there is ugly sharpening being applied in firmware, but I've been shooting with sharpening at -3 with Leica and Olympus glass, and not a single person would say my images look oversharpened. They can claim there is clipping going on in a clip I shared where there is no such clipping to be found anywhere except in areas of no importance whatsoever. They can assert that shooting a 1/2 stop over results in bizarre skin tones, when in fact the the only limitation to getting good skin tones is accurate white balance in camera and good color correction skills. But suggest increasing exposure by 1/3 stop, and all hell breaks loose. Because often, that's all we're talking about here. At times it will be a bit more, but in many circumstances, for example, when shooting a high contrast scene, ETTR involves at most 1/3 stop increase in exposure, flat scenes, a bit more, maybe 1/2 stop or so. It must be understood too that we don't just arbitrarily narrow the aperture until all zebras disappear - if there are zebras in inessential areas of the image - specular highlights, reflections, what have you - it's okay to let them blow out. It's also necessary to understand that ETTR does not apply when shooting at high ISOs - it's most effective at base ISO, which in the case of the GX80, is probably ISO 200 or ISO 400. There is another misperception that if you want to shoot a dark scene, you should shoot it dark - in other words, with the histogram bunched up to the left. But that will only lead to noise in the shadows, little dynamic range and less color information. Give more exposure, then pull the mids and shadows down in post and the image will be cleaner. I don't need a white paper to know all this, it's just common sense. Pulling up shadows is a recipe for introducing noise into the image. I have said repeatedly not to take my word as authority, that everyone should do their own testing. But beware of people online giving advice who have no website, no work to show, no YT or Vimeo channel or who haven't even used the camera or picture profile we're talking about here.

Sure thing!

The fluorescent lights in the upper right and the patch of sky to the upper left just beneath the awning are clipping at or just above 100 IRE.