jonpais

You can purchase longer sliders from Edelkrone with a motor if you like. This isn't their only model.

Press event January 4th

nice job!

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Nice to know. I'll change the settings right away and give it a try tomorrow afternoon. BTW, I have no issue at all with the dynamic range: use a fill light, change the composition, whatever it takes: t's not a Yi M1: it doesn't give the user helpful tips on composition. The Fuji X-T2 is without question the most exciting camera I've ever used in my life: the best build quality, the best lenses, the most accurate WB, and the most beautiful colors I've ever seen. I really could care less about IBIS and touch screen when I'm handling such a marvel. And Fuji is going to wipe the floor with Sony. Everyone's so caught up in reading specs over at DxO mark, et. al.; quibbling over the incremental changes over at Panasonic; and Olympus, with their overpriced, injection molded bodies produced in SouthEast Asia; and not sharing anything of value: instead of boasting about 1,500 pages of discussion of dynamic range, blah, blah, let's see some footage instead. Incidentally, footage from the GX85/G85 can be intercut with that from the GH4 and nobody could tell which is which. I've been struggling for years to get a decent image out of my Panasonics, and I get the X-T2, and voila! I'm finally getting color and clarity I could only dream of - and I've processed my own Ektachrome, made color separation gravure prints, gum bichromate prints, and Cibachromes and none of them begin to compare to the Fuji.

I think this might be very interesting as a second camera setup for interviews. Great for one-man operation. I've got the iFootage Shark Slider S1, but with a motor, it will cost thousands of dollars, and is unwieldy. I wouldn't use the word 'overkill', because it will produce beautiful results: but if there are budgetary restraints; if you're working in tight quarters; or you don't have an assistant; the Edelkrone is super fantastic.

You don't leave IOS on when the camera is mounted on a tripod, do you?

I personally would not shoot higher than ISO 800 with my GH4, but I guess if you don't mind spending hours de-noising your footage, you could get away with it. Not sure what you mean that all your handheld shots are with a 12mm lens... is that because you're concerned about camera shake with longer focal lengths? That sounds rather limiting. Anyhow, I've owned both the GH3 and the GH4, and for me the difference between the two is like night and day, both in terms of usability and image quality. Not only are the GH4's colors better (IMO), but if you shoot 4K and downsample to 1080p, there is virtually no aliasing or moire. If you shoot in low light, focus peaking and monochrome live view on the GH4 are invaluable tools to have (I have found however, that on the Fuji X-T2, the LCD is so clear that I don't need to rely on peaking). If low light is something you do on a regular basis, then you should seriously consider one of the newer Panasonics, which not only have focus peaking and 4K, but also IBIS and better low light performance. I would take a properly focused, shake-free image over one that perhaps ekes out a 1/2 stop more in dynamic range (if that is even the case) any day of the week. And if you aren't already heavily invested in u4/3 glass, you might even look into stepping up to a larger sensor camera. If you decide to stick with u4/3, the IBIS of the GX85/G85 is going to be of enormous benefit when shooting with a speed booster, too.

Hi Jason, it's morning here in Malaysia. I just put the low light clips I shot the other day on the timeline, when it dawned on me that you were referring to the blown highlights from the light outdoors, not the subjects' faces. There would be no way to recover those, and even Pro Neg does not increase the dynamic range of the camera. In order to save a little more of the background detail, you'd need to shoot F-Log. Even then, that's an enormous difference between shadow and highlight detail. Best to shoot from a different angle to avoid those problems. The reason I shot against bright light is because in low light situations, there are often light sources facing directly at the lens, and I wanted to see how the lens handled that. With my GH4, some lenses would produce awful veiling flare, for example, the 12-35mm f/2.8, as a result of insufficient lens coatings, which is one reason I've been waiting for Sigma to release a fast, wide u4/3 prime. Wide angles are particularly prone to this problem, because of their angle of view. BTW, I know I've said this before, and it's mentioned in Max Yuryev's review: ISO 6400 is not ISO 6400. Sony's low light monsters will be brighter at ISO 6400 than either the Panasonic or Fuji cameras. I went digging around for information on how ISO figures are reached, and learned that there are no fewer than three methods Japanese manufacturers use, as well as a fourth one, if you include marketing shenanigans. From the late 1800s up until the digital era, there were as many as ten different ways to measure light sensitivity. Some film manufacturers could put BLAHBLAH 1600 on their box of film, when in reality it was 400, and it wouldn't be fibbing, because they didn't say ASA or ISO.

completely invalid! ?

Those shots were with iDynamic on??

Believe me, I want to, but I just bought the G85 w/out lens, I'm in Malaysia, and I won't be returning to Vietnam until the 30th of December. Right now, all I've got is the X-T2, no stabilizer, no tripod. ?

Still confused...we know the sensors are different...

I used AWB: if you balanced color manually, I'm sure it would look even better. Maybe the red cola machine behind him... The dynamic range is limited, so I had to choose between good shadow detail or highlight detail. In some of the shots, I couldn't even see into the shadows with my own eyes. It doesn't have as good a dynamic range as the Sony for example. I didn't check the scopes when it was on the timeline, so not sure if they are recoverable. I can check that for you tomorrow. You can see noise in the wall in the shot of the fellow with the beard, but it's not objectionable, and I know for certain that it could be lessened with neat video. It is far less annoying than some stuff I've shot with the GH4. I would love to do an interview with Kim Gooi, he is articulate and extremely bright, but I didn't plan on it, so I didn't bring any mics with me. Actually, I am very interested in getting a Lav mic, since I've never been satisfied with the sound from my Rode shotguns. Pro neg may be even flatter than Classic Chrome, I can try to shoot some of that this week as well...

So, what's the relationship between dynamic range and low light sensitivity? If ISO 800 is the highest I would shoot with the GH4 and people are saying the G80 can shoot 3200, does that mean it has higher dynamic range as well? Or does it mean it just has less noise in the shadows, but no more gradations between white and black?

Sorry about the wait. The wifi here's very unreliable. At ISO 6400, the Fuji holds up quite well, and I probably wouldn’t bother de-noising the footage even if it were going to end up being used in a project. In all but the first two shots, I used Fuji’s Classic Chrome film simulation, which, together with highlight and shadow tone adjustments, helps to soften up the the contrast under harsh lighting conditions; though Astia may be Fuji’s flattest profile. Because the Fuji 35mm f/2 lens is so small, it’s the perfect choice when you want to be discrete. I was resting my elbows on a table for support, but someone kept kicking it, so sorry about all the camera shake. The cool guy wearing the beret is Kim Gooi, a correspondent and photographer during the Vietnam war. Free background music from JewelBeat.com

I just bought the G85 in Malaysia for a little over $725.00 USD, I guess because the Malaysian ringgit is currently at a historic low. A super bargain! I didn't bring any lenses for u4/3 with me, so I won't be able to shoot with it till I return to Vietnam on 30/1. ? I only had the chance to hold the body, and I much prefer the smaller form factor to my GH4. I imagine not many G80 owners will be willing to shell out $1,600.00 for the Nocticron, but I can assure you that if you do, you won't regret it. It has inceredible rendering and the bokeh is unbelievable. It is also one of the best built lenses in the u4/3 system.

@jasonmillard81 I just shot a few seconds of handheld video with the 35mm f/2 at ISO 6400 with aperture between f/2 and f/2.8 and the image is clean and sharp. I will try to share this evening if the wifi here cooperates.

This video was posted here a while back, has some impressive night shots. Funny though, no 35mm or 50-140mm ☹️. I believe I read somewhere that Fuji will be releasing a 50mm f/2, which works out to 85mm in 4K, so should be a handy little portrait lens.

Thanks, Jason. I'll be in Malaysia for two weeks, maybe when I get back I can try some low light stuff... But with which lens? Also, did you get the kit lens with the XT2? I don't currently own any fast Fuji glass, just 3 lenses, the fastest being the 35mm f/2.

Everyone here already knows about my aversion to variable aperture zooms, but I've got a lot of time on my hands, so can you share your thoughts on how you can justify the purchase of the 16-55mm, given that it's four times more expensive, weighs a ton, etc., etc. Are you unhappy with the kit lens? Sorry, I'm bored, just want someone to talk to. ????

@Bioskop.Inc It works for me. I wouldn't add a lot of narration, but maybe a few snippets of Kennedy here and there might be effective.

Lumix lenses are optimized for DFD, whereas Olympus are not.

For me, Fuji's XT2 is the best camera of 2016. Which won't stop me from getting another Lumix, though. ?

I wouldn't be so surprised - after all, this is Fuji's first serious video capable camera. They know how to do touch screens, the XT2's successor will likely have touch screen, and probably better implemented than on the A6500. Like I said before, given IBIS and touch screen on a camera with nice colors or one lacking those features but with superb colors, I'd choose the latter any day. And honestly, in my brief experience with the XT2, I'm finding I'm not having to dive into the menus to change settings like white balance nearly as often as with my GH4, and the joystick works great for my kind of shooting.