jonpais

It seems quite a few online reviewers like to kit out that inexpensive plastic shoulder rig. I've got the same rig, but it's sold under the name of Beike here in Vietnam. Although it is all plastic, it is very durable. I still find it doesn't give enough support, so I may try out the Kamerar eyepiece this afternoon to see if that extra contact point helps.

Could be... My bad... And it's only $268.00...

Not according to the test charts over at LensTip, it isn't.

GH4 Autofocus - doggy poo

12mm is great for showing the subject's environment. When I was in college, I did a series of B&W studio portraits using a 28mm lens (on a 35mm film camera), and I still think they're some of the best work I've ever done. But I would never attempt that if I were shooting head and shoulders shots for a wedding or something, because of the distortion when moving in close.

Everybody is right! The Sigma is pretty huge and rather unbalanced when used with the GH4 - I'd imagine when mounted on one of the smaller Panasonic bodies, the situation would only get worse. I've tried various setups for doing handheld work both with the 18-35mm f/1.8 as well as with other APS and full-frame lenses (+XL Speed Booster) but none have been truly satisfactory (I shake vey badly). To get shake-free shots, I would really have to rig it up like Cinegain says (cage, rails, shoulder rig weighing 40 lbs, etc.) and now it's no longer exactly compact anymore. While it's true the 18-35 may replace three primes, it's giving a very different look from 3 MFT primes, and not only the FOV - the color is quite different from the Panasonic lenses too (I prefer Sigma's colors). It also handles differently: although it is still plastic, it doesn't feel like a Fisher Price toy, like Panasonic's G X Vario lenses made in China do. If you did go primes, and you're not dead-set on buying PanLeica lenses, there are several less expensive options. A Samyang 12mm f/2 and Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC DN would only set you back about $600 or so, and they're light enough to fly on a pistol grip gimbal stabilizer too. I've never looked into a 42.5mm, not sure what the available options are for that focal length. Not sure either how well the 5-axis IBIS will work with a dumb adaptor, but I haven't done any research yet. Maybe somebody else here can answer that... I did watch one video after reading Vulgatron's post where they also say they prefer the look of the Turbo with legacy lenses, anyhow it was late at night, I think that's what I heard. @vulgatron If you did end up getting the G80 or GX85 with Sigma 18-35mm and a $150 focal reducer and weren't happy with the results, you could always sell the adapter on eBay and you'd only be out $75.00, so it's actually not the end of the world, either... Many people come to EOSHD every day looking for advice on what equipment to buy, and usually say what their budget is - but they often neglect to mention one crucial piece of information - what it is they intend to shoot... That should be the prime consideration... So, I'm curious: what exactly will the OP be shooting? Here's a video shot handheld with several lenses, but mostly using the GH4, Sigma 18-35mm and Metabones XL. Excuse the poor sound, this was completely unplanned. @vulgatron In your original post, you say '18-55mm', but I'm sure you meant '18-35mm', right? This post keeps getting longer and longer... I just did a quick search, and the Lumix G 42.5mm f/1.7 lens is an excellent value for around $350.00. Resolution and OIS are both terrific. So a set of 3 highly regarded primes would set you back around a grand. Below are charts from LensTip's test of the Panasonic 42.5mm f/1.7 lens.

There are already so many reviews online...

Buying 'cheap' costs more in the long run, and will only lead to dissatisfaction. I know little about the less expensive adaptors, but if you purchase one that doesn't communicate electronically with the lens, it could also prove to be a frustrating experience. The OP would be better off waiting until they can buy a good focal reducer like the Aputure or Metabones. In the meanwhile, they can always purchase outstanding, fast, sharp, inexpensive u4/3 glass from Samyang, Sigma, Panasonic and other manufacturers. I would no sooner put a cheap filter on my lens (some of the cheaper ones are no better than window glass), than I would attach something behind the lens that is going to degrade the image. @vulgatron You say you've seen videos shot with the Sigma online - why don't you check out which focal reducers they're using and purchase the one you like best?

You're buying one of the best zooms available, and you want to destroy the image why?

I really regret that when I was shopping at a camera mall in Mongkok, Hong Kong, the SLR Magic shop was closed... I've seen tests over at Focus Numerique and at LensTip that seem to show that at the edges of the frame, the Voigtlander 10mm looks like mush... and the long focus throw, which is so nice on the 25mm and 17.5mm, might be a drawback on the 10mm... I think it would be next to impossible to pull focus, because even with my 17.5mm, as much as I love the construction of the lens, it can be difficult to focus in low light, even when using aids like peaking, enlarging the image (AF Mode/MF on the GH4), and viewing in Monochrome (in order to see the peaking)... And as much as I'm an advocate of faster lenses in the u4/3 system, I don't see any value whatsoever in having such a large aperture on a lens as wide as 10mm... and, were I to purchase a super-wide u4/3 lens at the moment, I'd probably go with the Samyang/Rokinon 12mm f/2. But, as Sigma recently released the 30mm f/1.4 Contemporary lens for micro four-thirds, I'm going to wait a bit - I have a hunch they'll soon release a 12mm 1.4 of their own - one that will cost $800 less than the Leica for sure; and in all likelihood, it will perform just as well, if not better, given their track record. Nevertheless, everyone owes it to themselves to at least go to a shop and handle one of the Voigtlanders - as has been said elsewhere, they are built like a hand grenade. They are truly works of art, and it is incredible that lenses of this calibre - fanatical and uncompromising - are even being manufactured in this day and age, when plastics and electronics are all the rage. And, while they may not be full frame lenses, and not even optically perfect as the Zeiss Milvus lineup, I think they are far more beautifully designed. When I went to a local camera shop recently and actually held a Zeiss in my hands, I felt it was such a sterile experience.

Dumb question, but how many forum members are looking for a handheld stabilizer with a payload lower than 1,200 grams? I haven't seen anyone in the forums complain of not having a stabilizer built for a point and shoot camera...

I tried to do my first unboxing video, but it was a mess - color balance was off (the light in the room changed when the sun went behind the clouds) and I forgot to plug the Rode mic in. Plus, I shake a lot and move so quickly, the viewer doesn't have a chance to even see what I'm holding... Anyway, I've only ever owned one serious tripod in my life, a Gitzo I used back in my school days, which was built like a tank. But I have to say I'm impressed with the build quality, lightness and general appearance of the Wild Bull. The red metal latches that unlock the legs are a welcome touch, compared to the plastic latches found on some other tripods. I watched a video online (there aren't many), where Nitsan Simantov pushes against the T7 with his entire body weight to show that it can flex, and the legs can slide on the floor - but, try as I might, I couldn't get the thing to budge an inch (I only weight about 140 pounds soaking wet). The tripod comes with a plastic spreader which can be attached at the bottom or at the middle. The unit comes housed in an attractive waterproof carrying case (black with red accents around the zippers), just like the slider does. I bought the tripod to support my iFootage Shark S1 slider, and I'm certain it will perform like it should. But until I've actually used it, I can only give a qualified recommendation, though it appears to be a very well made piece of kit.

Maybe no OIS is a blessing in disguise. All autofocusing motors, switches, and IS motors, which move hundreds of times per second, will fail over time. Check out this article over at LensRentals.

I saw a fellow from California shooting an event here with a smartphone and a Saramonic mixer. It looked so cool! They are also selling one for cameras like the A6300 which don't have a headphone jack. Price is only $129. It will certainly attract a lot of attention. Here's a brief write-up (not a review) over at Cinema 5D.

Smaller, but same payload?

I go with option #2... I have the Edelkrone small, v.2, but I already picked up the iFootage Shark S1 a couple of weeks ago... A phenomenal piece of kit. thanks...

Thanks, Michael. No f/0.95 lens is going to be tack sharp wide open, either in the center or at the edges. You could get usable images with the 25mm Voigtlander wide open, but they wouldn't be critically sharp. The advantage of ultra fast lenses is that they can achieve record breaking resolution when stopped down a bit. The Voigtlanders are special - if you haven't handled one, you owe it to yourself to go to a camera shop and hold one in your hands - they are rock solid, like holding a small hand grenade, and all the markings are engraved. True old world craftsmanship. But because they are completely manual, you'll have to adjust aperture on the lens manually: aperture information doesn't appear in the viewfinder of the camera, as there are no electronic connections. And you have to select 'shoot without lens' in your custom settings to allow the camera to shoot at all. I I have function button 5 set to AF Mode/MF to enlarge the image for focus assist, and function button 1 set to Live View Monochrome just in order to be able to see focus peaking. Because the Voigtlanders lack OIS and autofocus, they are not at all suited for point-and-shoot scenarios. As for whether you need a 25mm lens, that depends on what you are shooting. You can't shoot traditionally flattering head and shoulders portraits with a 12mm lens, any more than you can with a 25mm. For that, a 42.5 or longer lens would be ideal. I intend to start vlogging in earnest soon, but I wouldn't use a lens longer than 30mm or slower than f/2, because I rent a dimly lit, small flat, and the camera would be too far away.

Great audio solution, and the sound of his voice in the video is strong and clear. Problem solved! Next...?

Update: Vietnam customs has kindly agreed to reduce the fees to 20% duty and 10% VAT, even though camera gear and electronics are supposed to be 10% duty and no VAT. I'll probably give in. So, I'll end up paying something like $175 instead of $3,770... What would you call an arm of the government that uses tactics like these?

Honestly, if you're concerned about audio, an external recorder is the way to go. A couple hundred dollars should buy you a nice digital audio recorder. No need to splurge on another camera and lenses. I wouldn't buy the GH4 now, especially with the GH5 coming out soon with 5 axis IBIS and other goodies. I'm curious just how much your buddy's asking for the GH4 and what lenses he's including in the mix anyway. Also, do you actually shoot a lot in inclement weather? And do you have or are you prepared to invest in an external recorder to take advantage of Vlog? I like weather sealed bodies too, since it pours here in Vietnam 6 months out of the year, but even if my body and lenses are weather sealed, my 1) Edelkrone slider; 2) Shark S1 slider; 3) Zhiyun Crane gimbal stabilizer; 4) Metabones Speed Booster XL; and 5) Sony PCM M10 digital audio recorder are not, and as I seldom leave the house without one of these, it's almost a moot point as far as my shooting goes. And furthermore - the GH4 and lenses are really just splash proof, they're not built to withstand the kind of storms we get in these parts.

Crazy beans! At least the Panasonic engineers and designers were clever enough to put a headphone jack somewhere on their flagship model, unlike Fuji, who want you to shell out over $300 USD for their VPB-XT2.

I just recorded the introduction to a review of the Zhiyun Crane using the GH4 and Rode Videomic Pro. It is definitely nice being able to monitor the recording, even if you're just using it for scratch audio. But... Since I'm starting to vlog, when I want to tilt the screen so I can watch myself as I'm shooting, I have to unplug the headphone jack, because it prevents you from flipping the LCD screen over. It would be nice if this is fixed in the GH5.

I have zero charisma, nonetheless, as I'll be retiring next week, I thought I'd start a vlog for those suffering from insomnia. I just recorded an introduction to my review of the Zhiyun Crane using the recently released Sigma 30mm f/1.4 Contemporary lens for micro four thirds. I shot this at C4K, ISO 800, f/4, with both sharpening and contrast set to -4 and saturation at -2. No color correction or sharpening were added in post. I'm pretty pleased with both the color and resolution of the lens.

Thought you might find this amusing. I was so impressed with the iFootage Shark S1 slider that I decided to go ahead and purchase one of their carbon fiber tripods, the Wild Bull T7, from Hong Kong. The price came to around $575. Well, it arrived here in Vietnam, and customs is saying I have to pay 85,893,694 Vietnam dong, or around $3,770 USD in customs fees. My math isn't very good, but I think that's something like a 700% tax. Normally, there is a 10% tax on camera equipment, but I've usually paid somewhere between 10-20% for other gear I've bought in the past, because I didn't want to argue with customs. I'll be sure to let you know the outcome once this is resolved.

To heck with the lenses, all I want is that Mazda Cosmo! Nice work, Midloch! I didn't even know such a vehicle existed. And while I have no doubt both the Samyang and PanLeica are excellent lenses, there was nothing in the video that popped out at me - in fact, if anything, the images appeared a tad soft - but that could just be my Wifi connection. @Michael - if you read my rant in the lenses thread, you'll know that I applaud your decision to go with fast primes. Fast u43 lenses can be very compact, and have the opportunity to saturate the sensor with crazy resolution by f/2 or f/2.8, whereas slower lenses are barely able to correct for aberrations, vignetting, etc. before they encounter diffraction at around f/8. I also agree with Cinegain, $1,300-$1,600 for a PanLeica lens seems a bit excessive, but if you can find the Leica 25mm for 1/4 of the price, that would probably be a steal (maybe too good to be true, and personally I'd never buy a new lens offered for 1/4 of the retail price from anyone, even my uncle). On the other hand, I just bought the Voigtlander 17.5mm for $800 - nothing logical, I just had to own the lens - it's a work of art, old-world craftsmanship. And I also purchased the plastic fantastic Sigma 30mm, but haven't had a chance to try it out yet. I would like to know in what way the Olympus 25mm f/1.2 is superior to the Sigma 30mm, which LensTip calls best in class, to the point that one can justify spending $700 more for it. My guess is, it ain't.