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Everything posted by j.f.r.
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The reason for using S-LOG is for maximum dynamic range, if you chose not to use it you lose about 2 stops without it. So you can effectively go from 12 to 10 stops by not shooting in S-LOG mode or even worst. Some people have ranned test and said they only lost about 1 stop, but from my experience with the camera you would always want to use it at it's best setting. S-LOG mode protects your highlights which is crucial during bright scenes, if you're shooting a night time scene maybe not so important, but you can clip your sensor easily so you still need to be careful. From my experience I would use S-LOG mode 99% of the time.
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I own the camera, you want to use SLOG for maximum dynamic range like I stated, now if you don't want help thats another story..... Iso 3200 means nothing, all you do is use a stronger ND filter which you should own anyways
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Sony A7s has between 11.5-12 stops of dynamic range, GX7 around 9 or possible even less...... When shooting outdoors with Sun you definitely want to shoot Slog for maximum dynamic range.
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It's also sad people who love to form an opinion on others without understanding my "strong mouth" point as you say..... If you've ever had to light a large space, you would understand the benefit of being able to have a camera that is sensitive to light. The difference of 10 lights to 5 is huge on budget. Those extra 5 lights cost more, require additional space + additional wattage to push. Having a camera that is able to combat this is huge + you're able to choose your dof as well. Using a smaller sensor / low iso camera such as the DB16 you are also forced to basically shoot with all of your lenses wide open or you you would have to require even more light to shoot around F/5.6 - F/8 and get good exposure in a dark environment. A Canon C100, C300, Sony A7s, Fs7, F55, etc you could shoot around F/8 and easily push your iso to 3200 and basically still have a very nice looking image if you chose to have a deeper dof. Iso is also very important as the higher you go you lose color/dynamic range, so if I'm constantly having to shoot my camera at the max iso then I am losing quality..... I can go on and hopefully some people can understand my "strong mouth" comes from being placed in the worst situations and how having better cameras has allowed us to work better/more efficiently. In 2015 and moving forward one of the most important features of a camera is it's noise floor/dynamic range in my honest opinion. DB16 has a great Kodak sensor that can deliver amazing colors, global shutter for film like motion, professional audio and a plethora of other great specs, but my problem with the camera is the reason why I simply haven't hopped on board....... Noise , Iso and partially sensor size
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Panasonic GH4 firmware update V2.2 due to be released April 22nd
j.f.r. replied to Andrew Reid's topic in Cameras
Looks great, but in all reality the credit needs to go to the set/art design, wardrobe, makeup and lighting as that's what really gave it production value. A GH1 would have looked great capturing this well produced video. Now I would love to see the GH4 in not so great settings, poor light, natural skin tones, etc, you know more documentary style stuff where you really don't have all the extra hands helping you to capture the best image, this is what I need from a camera. -
I never mentioned once the A7s in this thread...... What DB16 needs to do is Fix the noise, raise the asa and bring us a better camera and a good price.
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Point blank period in 2015 this camera is overpriced and unusable in too many applications due to iso/noise. Outside of "niche" no one would buy this camera as their main tool, let alone their second. This is "specialized" for artistic purposes as stated. All the bitrates, codec mean nothing when you can't shoot past 6pm or don't have a full light kit..... That Dynamic range is even less as soon as you raise that short iso as well. DB16 a great artistic tool when used with plenty of light, but so are many other cameras with less noise. They could slash the price in half of the DB16 and people still wouldn't buy it.......
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Problem with the DB16 is noise/iso ,simply unacceptable in 2015 for a camera to not be able to go above 800 iso. This is a very specialized camera that came out a couple of years too late and overpriced.....
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Movie looks horrible , looks like ENG Camera footage...... Just because your such a fan of the NX1 and this JVC for whatever reason doesn't mean you should force your opinion. Pretty safe to say no one here would say that footage looks even remotely "cinematic" Back on topic, no point on derailing thread peace
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200Mbps All-i or 100Mbps for 60p conformed to 24?
j.f.r. replied to Peter Rzazewski's topic in Cameras
If anyone can show me video to clearly prove this I would agree, unfortunately no one will as you simply cannot tell.... If this is for the GH4 your best bet is recording Pro Res to an external recorder, but even still it's very hard to tell with that camera. Honestly not a fan at all of the GH4...... Average dynamic range, poor in low light and the best thing about it is 4k resolution..... -
JVC nor NX1 can do what Sony A7s does, not even close....... Iso and Dynamic Range not even in the same league, let alone Full Frame. JVC hasn't put out a good camera in forever and their color science has always been behind Panasonic, Sony, etc. NX1 is a nice disposable camera at the price, but not something I would base my business off of and I can assure you he would never purchase it. Sony Fs700, Fs7 and A7s are the top contenders here, but Blackmagic Ursa Mini also looks amazing if able to properly light.
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With that budget I would no questions ask buy a Sony Fs700 with Odyssey7Q+ and a backup Sony A7s. At most that would cost you around $10-11K and still leave you several left over for lighting/lenses, etc. He can also upgrade to a better iMac/Mac Pro for $3-4K and still have money left over. Now on the flip side the new Ursa Mini would be excellent if you're able to light all of your scenes!
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Comparison spec sheet for C300 mii, FS7, URSA, URSA mini, and C100 mii
j.f.r. replied to Jonesy Jones's topic in Cameras
Every camera is designed for the same purpose , some just do it better than others -
Canon 6D is your best choice and great price right now
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Problem is most people here don't even shoot and chase the latest and greatest...... Sure a new revision of a camera is welcome or should I say can have improved features, but the Sony A7s for about $2k is honestly an amazing tool that anyone can shoot for years to come..........
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Comparison spec sheet for C300 mii, FS7, URSA, URSA mini, and C100 mii
j.f.r. replied to Jonesy Jones's topic in Cameras
I work with Alexa and RED , very different cameras than what Blackmagic is. People have honestly lost their minds comparing Alexa to Blackmagic........ -
Comparison spec sheet for C300 mii, FS7, URSA, URSA mini, and C100 mii
j.f.r. replied to Jonesy Jones's topic in Cameras
It'll probably be the camera you make the most "Money" with........ Based on iso alone Blackmagic Camera's are unusable in anything outside of well lit scenes or sunny days which many many times you simply don't have the "luxury" as an independent filmmaker. -
Most enclosures accommodate 9.5mm which are the size of most SSD's. There are several mini thunderbolt enclosures where you can plug in SSD's, I have no idea how you came to that conclusion that there isn't...... Now to answer the thread starter what you need are a pair of SSD's you can run in Raid externally, not sure if your MBP supports USB 3.0, if it does then just go with a cheap USB 3.0 enclosure and buy a 1TB SSD. Also you should really be converting your files to Pro Res.....
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I don't really understand your post regarding what 3D Luts are.......... I don't think anyone questioned that or even asked, I simply stated you could achieve great skin tones on Sony A7s and my process of doing so.... Peace
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I wouldn't use RAW on the Pocket, very bad moire and aliasing..... Compressed modes is much better for this simple fact. Unfortunately though Blackmagic Pocket Camera cannot be used due to lack of higher frame rates. Sony A7s is a much better overall camera imo with very impressive dynamic range (12) and insane low light/high iso capabilities. URSA MINI looks very good though, the main problem I still see though is max 1600 iso. They need to seriously get that up to 3200 iso, if I can get 3200 iso then I feel it would be perfect.
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My problem with URSA MINI , is high iso/low light. Shooting run and gun, small crew many and I mean MANY times you simply cannot light every scene to your liking, this is where the Sony cameras imo show their greatest strengths. Shooting iso 6400 on a Sony FS7 is smooth as butter, on a URSA max you have is 1600 and that is going to be a noisy image...... No question URSA has a BEAUTIFUL image (like all BM cameras) when you have sufficient light, but that image turns very bad once the sensor starts losing light.... Sony A7s with an external recorder like the SHOGUN recording 4k ProRes would be my weapon of choice......
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I've cut C300 with Alexa before and it looked fine, it was done as well in the movie "HER" looked perfectly fine....... People really have the wrong impressions about these cameras it seems and what professional colorist do all the time.......
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Look great ics, but also there's nothing wrong with luts, many professional colorist use them, have used them and connote to use them on films. Not implying that you said they were, just clarifying since one can get the impression that you can do this from scratch and luts are not needed. Certain luts though simply cannot be replicated through simply curves and colors from my understanding as they truly use film emulsion.
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S-LOG mode standard settings Graded in Resolve and Tweaked in Final Cut 1) DaVinci Resolve first node adjust exposure (highlights / lows / contrast) 2) 2nd node applied LUT ( I believe it was Kodak or similar, I have a whole bunch) 3) Tweaked in Final Cut (contrast) + fine adjustments to color in Colorista. I noticed A7s image has more green than normal so you simply bring it down judging by your waveforms and level them out & I like to push the blue (for skies , water, etc) It's a pretty long process it seems, but I think the final image is worth it.... I'm used to working with RED LOG files all of the time (work) and the Sony A7s holds up incredibly well in comparison. The main advantage of RED files though is being able to adjust white balance / iso / etc. as the camera shoots RAW, something A7s to my understanding is not capable of. Thanks