IronFilm

Sadly the director on the feature film I worked on recently believed the exact OPPOSITE, and constantly wanted me to "hide" my boom pole and blimp.

Yup, a high end gaming PC from a few years ago is still relevant and quite capable today. Same is true of DSLRs, the Nikon D800 is a rather damn old camera, yet is still one of the better cameras you can buy today! (same could be said about the D7100 as well) That is the stills world, but still got some way to go with video cameras however. But look at the Sony FS7 mk1? It is a bit old ish now, but I reckon if you picked up one secondhand now it would still stay relevant for a few more years!

You can adapt less onto the FD mount.

It "depends" How much do you care about ease of use / practicality? If you do, then get a GH5!

Don't buy EF lenses!! But an EF focal reducer can make sense, if you're just using it as a base to adapt other things to it.

Exactly, bit silly to compare data rates of an 8bit vs 10bit file as a way to explain away the shitty 8bit codec.

Sadly I think the answer is "no". You could go with the Video Devices PIX-E5, which is a 4K 5" recorder, which is smaller than most over 4K recorders.

So? My point is the the difference is so tiny it is basically close to irrelevant. If the difference was just ISO 5, would you even bother mentioning it? I'd hope not! So? My point is be careful leaning too heavily on DXO scores when they are for stills (raw or not), as there can be a significant disconnect between stills and video performance. My bad, I was extraordinarily tired when I read you the first time. I realise now we're on the same page :-) (welll.... assuming the focal reducer gives the same FoV, then the light gathered is the same too)

If you actually read what DXO says themselves, you'll realise that ISO 441 is mostly a pretty insignificant difference! Remember also DXO scores are only applicable for photo stills, which can end up being quite irrelevant for us! If the stills vs video performance ends up being waaaaaaay off...

Give it a while, perhaps when the RX100VI comes out, and 1" sensors will be just as good at ISO6400! Seriously?? Do you not understand how a focal reducer works? This. Is. TRUTH. Yes, people need to not forget about the practical aspects. How often are you shooting WFO? ("wide fvcking open!") And even if you are shooting WFO.... MFT gets an edge here with F0.95 lenses just for MFT vs the usual F1.4 for FF cameras. But often the DoF is chosen for practical purposes (or artistic purposes) as you don't want to be trying to pull focus with half an inch of DoF, and once you've got picked out (let's say a couple of feet is what you select for your DoF), then if that is kept constant, you'll find FF is operating at quite a disadvantage to MFT! Is this a "2016 APS-C" a Canon DSLR? ;-)

Which one are you looking at getting, and why do you need 16 channels?

1) Sounds like you answered your own question? Personally I don't think it is worth it, but it is a fairly subjective question. 2) You'll be having to deal with more data than any other non-raw 4K camera 3) Yes.

Just pick a happy middle ground, and use the limiters with a soft knee that the Tascam gives you. You might still find yourself needing to occasionally adjust levels, but not too much, pretty easy to do on the fly.

Don't go with such an extremely old card! Get yourself a modern one, I'd suggest getting yourself a GeForce GTX 1050 Ti , they are in plentiful supply, are dirt cheap, and more than kick ass good enough to handle moderate editing demands.

"2 in" => means you can record at most only two tracks on your PC with this piece of hardware. You don't need hardware for that? Do it in post with software on your PC.

Having a hard date to sell items happen over and over would be too scary for me..... and it might force you to sell it for less than you'd like to sell it for! As you can't hold and wait for a better offer to come along :-/

Just use Tascam's dual record feature! Easy breezy, handy for when actors catch you off guard. Depends, are you earning an income from this? Then you can analyze the ROI ("return on investment"). Otherwise treat it the same way you'd look at any other hobby spending, such as buying a boat for your fishing. I looked it up, and saw this: "24-bit /192kHz 2-in/2-out USB Audio" Noooooooooooooooo!!! Avoid it, avoid, abandon ship!

Anything new would depreciate somewhat over two years. You want to find yourself a really good deal, or buy secondhand. I'd be fascinated to hear more about this Arri Alexa Classic for $12K, as I've been posting quite often pointing out they exist!! Could you convince him to come on over to here and start a new thread about his purchase? That would be AMAZING!

Spooky timing... !! Over at gearsultz a very similar thread was started: https://www.gearslutz.com/board/remote-possibilities-acoustic-music-location-recording/1156099-simple-question-how-do-you-guys-afford-all-stuff.html

Whoops!! I was thinking of the Roland Rubix24, not the Tascam, same price though at US$200.

Hmmmm.... well, oh, reckon you can't make much of a conclusion when you're just comparing them mounted on the camera. As that isn't how they're meant to be used. Still, zero surprise the CMIT5U came out ahead of the NTG2! It is a $2.2K microphone! And I suspect almost noone else will be using it as a microphone on top of a DSLR.

Still sitting on the fence as to which cheap and affordable USB interface I should buy, I think I've narrowed it down to three that grab my interest the most: BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UMC404HD (only US$100! And has MIDAS designed pre amps, and has 4 XLR inputs). Secondhand Focusrite Scarlett 18I8 (hopefully could get it for sub US$200 secondhand on eBay? Although might be only generation 1, does gen2 add that much more?! I do like that not only does it have 4 XLR inputs, but I can easily enough expand it up to **EIGHTEEN* inputs! :-o ). Tascam US-4x4 (US$200, so probably the priciest one here. But has limiters, and two headphone outputs). What do folks think?

A little secret tip for the very frugally minded: if even an Aputure Deity is outside your price range, then grab yourself an Audio-Technica AT4073a from eBay. (Or maybe even the Audio-Technica AT4071a if you can handle the extra bulk of its longer lengrh) As this was a very popular mic, an "industry standard" even. And a ***tonne*** of these were used by broadcasters for the Olympics (as AT was the Olympic sponsor) which ended up flooding the secondhand market and driving down prices. And unlike the other "industry standard" Sennheiser 416, the Audio-Technica AT4073a is nowhere near as famous, which has helped keep prices down even lower. http://www.dslrfilmnoob.com/2012/03/27/gear-watch-audio-technica-at4073a-shotgun-mic/ I'd disagree with DSLRfilmnoob here, as if you're paying over two hundred bucks then you failed! As with patience it can be found even cheaper ;-) I have one myself arriving in a few days, which I picked up for a mere song.

Do you have any BTS pics of mic placement? As that is what matters the most when filming. But yes, the NTG2 is a student grade mic (or for other non-sound specialists who just don't care about sound, such as cameramen. Which is where I use my NTG2 now, as an on camera mic when there is no other option for a scratch track. I should probably sell my NTG2 though, as I have plenty of other options for that). At the absolute bare *bare* minimum, if you're aspiring to do this professionally and/or you just simply *care* about sound then get an Aputure Deity or Rode NTG3 as your shotgun for outdoors.

If you want to be nimble and fast, then don't get a set of primes! Get instead the classic "Holy Trinity" of fast zooms for S35 (I'd recommend to get all in Nikon F mount, and it seems like you'll need to do a bit of photography for your job? So thus pick up a Nikon D7100 secondhand for dirt cheap, and it will handle this side of things extremely well): Tokina 11-20mm 2.8 + Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 + Sigma 50-100mm f1.8 You might want to throw in there an extra long tele zoom, just to have those occasional shots covered! Perhaps the Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D for cheap secondhand. Then for whatever system you go with, be it perhaps a Panasonic GH5 or say a Sony FS5 or even the Panasonic EVA1, then also get couple of native lenses which work to the strengths of the system, specifically a superzoom (for extra run and gun speed, it is handy at times!) and a pancake lens (for when you want to go undercover!). Examples: Sony 18-105mm f4 + Sony 20mm f2.8 Panasonic 14-140mm (or a Panasonic 12-60mm) + Panasonic 20mm f1.7