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tosvus, Thanks for the update on this. I upgraded my 35-100 firmware just before shooting a bunch of video. Previously, I only used the 35-100 to shoot video with OIS when mounted on my E-PM2. I thought that is how crappy OIS is by nature for video (when comparing to my E-M5 at the time), that I never tried again. After filming with the firmware upgrade on my GX7, it seemed a bit better, but much worse than my LX100's OIS. I really need to do a comparison between the LX100 and 35-100 at 70mm. I still think there is too much jitter in the 35-100 though but as it is my only OIS lens, I can't really tell. I'm thinking hard swapping the GX7 with the EM-5 II (for telephoto), with the only downside being having to match shots from the LX100.

I'm looking at ways to augment the sound capabilities of my GX7 and LX100 cameras for run-and-gun event shooting. Neither of them have microphone input jacks, and both have hotshoes. I'm trying to find a small solution, since these are small cameras, to use with my benro video monopod. I already own a Zoom H1 recorder, but I'm wondering if a small shotgun mic would be more appropriate for directional sound recording. I also own and used lavs (Olympus -> H1 and Rode Smartlav+ -> iphone) but I'm looking for something to get better sound if I can't get close enough to the action or have access to the speakers to slap on a lav. Some of the ideas I've looked at: Rode videmic go (£60) -> Zoom H1 which I already own. Any tips on how to rig this up to the camera or monopod/tripod? There are smaller recorders like the new Tascam DR-10c (£200 - pricey), and littleDARling (not yet available). Shure Lenshopper VP83F with built-in recorder (£300), but it is a bit pricey and I'm not too sure if something similar and cheaper will be coming out soon from other companies, such as Rode. I saw in another thread (which was looking for audio alternatives) that there are some chinese-made shotgun mics, but they look rather large, especially with their mounts. Any experiences with small external-audio setups would be appreciated. The first project I'm going to use this for will be trying to video an outdoor winter bobsled/skeleton event at the end of January.

Thank you for the input. Sorry for the basic questions, I've done some additional research (I was searching the archives for "sports" rather than the software tools "twixtor, or FCPx optical flow" so previously didn't get many results). fuzzynormal, I think that I will just be using the software slowdown when I grab some footage of bobsled and skeleton starts (if I'm capable of getting any decent shots). I've just started playing with the GX7. I've previously used Olympus E-M5/E-P5/E-PM2 and ditched them due to the weak video codec, especially on wide/fast shots. My first Panasonic (bought in November) was the LX100. I like the GX7, but find it a bit "clunkier" to use than the LX100. There are significant improvements in the LX100 like focusing speed (faster than any camera I've ever used), face/eye detection, iAuto-ISO. I also love the manual LX100 controls, and not having/needing a mode dial. I'm still trying to understand how the configuration settings on the mode dial work on the GX7 when there are already modes for P/S/A/M, Movie Mode. I also like using monochrome in the EVF/LCD on the LX100 when using video with manual focus as the yellow focus peaking really jumps out. I'm not sure if this is available on the GX7. In summary, the suggestions I found for slow-motion camera settings are: - Use the highest framerate you have, ie 720p/60 is better than 1080p/30. My (PAL) GX7 has 1080p/50 so I'll go with that. - Use the highest shutter speed you have. Less motion blur will help the software tools do the interpolation better, and motion blur can be added back in post. - A simple background is best. I'm not sure how I can best do this as the starts have the sledders oncoming and if I use a shallower depth of field to blur the background, there is less time that the althletes will be in the area of focus. I'm going to try to experiment with this and cars or other quick moving objects. - Another tip to get the right amount of motion blur is to calculate the 180 degree shutter speed based on the fps you are shooting at * the factor that you plan on slowing down the shot in post. I guess this means that If I'm shooting 50 fps, and plan on slowing down by 50%, I should set the shutter to around 1/200. I will play around with Twixtor (demo), FCPx Optical Flow, and the free GoPro Studio 2.5 with flux (which I've read is Twixtor under the hood).

Hi there, I'm going to take some video of my brother when he races in the World Cup of Skeleton (where they throw themselves headfirst down an ice chute at up to 140 km/h). I own a Panasonic LX100 and a newly-purchased GX7. I'm planning on using the LX100 for the wider shots and when I want to rely on the detail that the 4k brings. I plan on using the GX7 with my longer u4/3 lenses (like P35-100/2.8) and hope to be able to use the DTC functionality as well. I have a few questions about techniques and settings needed to shoot fast moving sport, using 50fps (in the GX7), and potentially getting more slow-motion with something like Twixtor to interpolate frames. Normally, I try to follow the 180 degree shutter rule for motion blur, and until now I've only had a camera that shoots 24/25/30 fps so I've kept the shutter speed fixed at 1/50 especially when indoors with 50Hz lighting. I would like to try to record some of the bobsled and skeleton starts with the intent of slowing them down in post. The GX7 has 50 fps. If I record in 50 fps, should I be setting the shutter at 1/125 or should I be using something higher for sharper image capture, especially if I intend on using something like twixtor to make it look like even slower motion? As far as shooting at 50 fps on the GX7 (28 Mbps), is there any loss in image quality compared to shooting at 25 fps (20 Mbps). Is there any reason why I shouldn't always shoot at 50 fps just in case I want to slow anything down in the future? Thank you for advise!

Can someone in PAL-land tell me how I can set things up to quickly shift to 1/50 shutter? I'm a little bit angry that Panasonic didn't offer the lx100 as a world (PAL/NTSC) camera, and the force the PAL camera it use 1/60 on the physical dial They should either offer us to set the shutter speed in the video settings, map the 1/60 to 1/50, or allow us to save shutter speed as custom settings. At least Olympus - with their short-sighted only 30p frame rate - allows easy shutter speed selection of 1/50. I didn't have any problems with artificial light flicker with 50Hz.

Hey all, I just got me one of these LX100 to replace my Olympus E-P5 that I was using for stills/video with either the Panasonic 25/1.4 or the Olympus 12-40/2.8 zoom. I'm brand new to Panasonic menus and shooting so I'm finding it a steep learning curve to setting it up and getting the right functionality (zebras/peaking/focus magnification) - features that were not available on the Olympus cameras in video mode. Also, would love hearing from people who have set it up to be able to switch quickly for stills settings, to settings for video (manual mode, 180o shutter, automatic focus with manual override, quick WB/ISO changes). I see that there are customisations (C1, C2, C3) but not sure how to apply them quickly without a mode dial. Yes, I need to read the manual, and I am in the process of doing so, but looking for some help from those that are shooting with the Panasonic menus, and specifically the LX100. Sometimes the manual is not too helpful there. Thanks! Stephen P.S. First impressions is that the EVF is usable, but I miss my tilting Olympus VF-4. I can't believe how light the LX100 is, even compared to my E-PM2 with 17/1.8 prime (although I haven't weighed them). I also really like the LX100 grip.

I think that there is some logic here, and I'm on the fence about the LX-100. There are lots to like about the camera like 4k image quality, zoom lens, EVF, compact size. However I probably not purchase it knowing that Panasonic has left out some obvious features (touch/tilt LCD, HDMI out) for a future update, or not to compete with existing products (e.g. GH4). Reasons for me to wait: If Panasonic releases a 4k GM or GX camera, or Olympus get proper video output, or Samsung/Sony offer something GX7-size worth swapping to from my current u4/3 lens investment. My current camera doesn't prevent me from shooting or creating, even though I would like some improvements in image quality. I'm willing to wait a while for enough new features to move from what I now own and use.

You are right, I downloaded the 4k "flat" clip that Cameralabs uploaded, pulled it into FCPx, messed around a bit with the exposure, contrast, and saturation, and then exported it as 1080p. The exported 1080p image looks really quite good and you can't see much moire, for example, on the garage doors that looked horrible when played on Vimeo or through Quicktime when downloaded. That being said, I think I'll still pass on the LX100. I think I'll miss the tilt/touch LCD too much, and I'm hesitant about the EVF. I think I'll put up with the hit and miss video output in my Olympus E-P5 as I love it for stills and the IBIS, and I'll see what Panasonic and Olympus (or even Sony) come up with next in their smaller-body ranges.

Here is the "flat settings" video: Unfortunately, it is looking like this is not the camera for me if the video is crippled in this way. I was looking to move away from some of my Olympus bodies, but for £799 I think there are too many compromises here - especially if you include no touch/tilt screen or tilt EVF. I'm going to wait to see what the Panasonic Gx7 or Olympus OMD-EM5 replacements give us.

I am assuming Panasonic is not going to give us the LX-100 as a "world" camera and will have PAL and NTSC flavours? This sucks if I want to buy the camera in the US or Canada, or if I buy the PAL version (live in the UK) and shoot video when visiting family in North America I will struggle with the 25 fps under artificial lights? Is this also true for the GH4? Overall, I'm not too sure that this is a problem as when I adjust my shutter speed between 1/50 or 1/60 (depending on country) on my Olympus cameras (which only give 30 fps) I don't get noticeable flicker.

Thank you for this early review Andrew! I think this is going to replace one of my Olympus E-P5 and O12-40 zoom for carry-everywhere video.

Hi Andrew, could you comment on how the EVF performs as well? Looking forward I your review.

Really close for me to replace my Olympus E-P5, due to poor Olympus video codecs (and no firmware upgrades on the horizon, I think). Too bad there is no tilt/touch LCD and the fixed EVF seems to have less quality that the GX7 (similar in quality to GH2) according to this blog: http://admiringlight.com/blog/hands-panasonic-lx100-gm5-voigtlander-10-5mm-f0-95/ Maybe a lot of this can be overcome by the peaking functionality. I've never used it with video as it isn't supported in the Olympus cameras. The GM5's bulit-in EVF is even lower resolution, unfortunately. I love the Olympus tilt EVF VF-4, too bad the video output is so crap.

Looks like no built-in ND. Does this thing have screw-in filter threads, and if so, what diameter?

This is from Olympus' official youtube channel related to the E-P5 getting higher frame rates in 720p. Don't know if it is for real or not, as it was published in July and I haven't seen it yet. The video examples shown in the clip were shot on the E-P5? I'm not so sure as mine get blocky when shooting wide depth of field with lots of detail or movement. http://youtu.be/cVZABJ-lzeA

There is a discussion on Flickr about Olympus (specifically E-M1) video: https://www.flickr.com/groups/getolympus/discuss/72157644800709078/ An Olympus rep has responded and since it is a public forum maybe it will get some more visibility if people post their input and feedback?

Is the video output of the EM-1 that much better than the EM-5? I have the latter and get a lot of blocky video when things start moving (leaves on trees, etc.) Otherwise, the image is quite nice and the IBIS makes it easy to shoot stable video without any other gear.

  Here is a good blog post that talks about this: http://admiringlight.com/blog/full-frame-equivalence-and-why-it-doesnt-matter/

Andrew, thank you for posting this and I also enjoyed the tram movie too.   I bought the OMD EM-5 primarily for stills although I've started messing around with shooting video (mostly of my 3 year old and family events).  I only shoot handheld, and can really appreciate what the IBIS can do.     I love the camera for photography and sometimes the video output comes out looking fantastic however both the 1080p and 720p H.264 crumbles into a blocky mess when there is a lot of movement (for instance leaves on trees moving in the background).  I've also tried using the 720p MJPEG settings and while it doesn't get blocky, the output looks more fuzzy or grainy (for lack of a better word).     There are a few other things missing from the camera when in video mode: focus peaking, true 24p/60p, touch screen focusing (works with stills).  The live histogram is quite handy, though, and the EVF isn't bad for manual focus while giving you a third point of stabilisation.  Hopefully Olympus gets a couple of video engineers in return after trading their IBIS technology with Sony.   Would you mind sharing some of your OMD EM-5 camera settings and any other experiences that could help with getting better video output? What picture setting do you use and do you turn down sharpness, saturation, contrast and then colour grade in post?