wolf33d

+10000 And kudos to DXO for giving us this. At least we have a good understanding of performance sensor. I verified their measurement in real world with every camera I owned. Cross their results with the Dpreview image comparison tool for ISO and DR and it matches well. I don't understand your frustration Andrew.

There is a big difference between Made in and Designed in. I was speaking about designed in. The made in just change the price but it does not change what the camera is (specs, innovations...) We lack of a Tesla-like competitor in the camera industry. People who truly innovate instead of spending their time thinking how to best cripple their product to protect their cine line.

I do not care that RED applies what ever correction and magic to their file and cook them for 10h before delivering it to my memory card. I care that what I get on my memory card is an absolutely fantastic looking 16 bit RAW image with 15.2DR and no noise. In a SS35 sensor... so imagine in FF.. I care that what we can buy for 3K today are 11DR in a GH5, or 14.8DR for stills in a D810 but with a body and logic (mirror) as old as my father and video capabilities of a 2010 phone. There is something wrong in this world. Why is there no US/EUR company making cameras? We have Apple in the US who completely changed the computer industry, then the music industry, now the phone industry and all those asian company copying what they do, taking them years to equal the product each time. Now why dont we have a Canon or Nikon from US? With people who can actually innovate and give us the best tech and innovations in products dedicated to photo and video. I am so tired of those Japanese company as classic as it gets serving us the same shit for years. Those guys are the most conservative people on the planet. Makes me sick. Now what a surprise RED is from California, and gives us a way better S35 sensor than any FF sensor ever done by whoever else.

I dont think so. A sensor is a sensor. Sensor cost comes mainly from its size (cost of sensor raise with the square of the size) so I think a FF sensor cost more than this one. From comments in the link above someone says it is because of the treatment to RAW they bring, sort of temporal noise reduction combining multiple exposure in a pixel to reduce noise improving DR and high ISO, all in a 16bit package. But then again, why not do that in our DSLRs.....

Why would they not allow 40Mbps for the 180fps this is ridiculous Probably a cripple for their Cine cameras..

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/red-just-dethroned-sony-a7rii-dxomark/ The new APSC 35mpx Red sensor beats everything in the world of stills camera. Higher dynamic range than D810 (15.2 stops!!!!) and incredible tonal range and high ISO I do not understand how an APSC sensor like this can get that much DR and high ISO capability VS lets say a D810 sensor. Are RED sensor that much more advanced? Why dont we have APSC sensors with 15.2 of DR in stills camera? Or at leas in FF sensors. I dont get it. If RED can do this why not Canon Sony Nikon or anyone else. I want a 35mpx FF sensor with those performance in DR and high ISO in a Canon mirrorless body compatible with Canon lenses with IBIS, 4K60p, FHD240p, Canon DPAF, H265 150mbps codec + prores option, 10 bit. for 3000$. This will come in about 3 years. But damn... It exists today so why not

Wow. With speedbooster Ultra ?

Amazing thanks for sharing. Is this as well shot on the 12-35? Looks amazing the DoF for a 2.8 lens on such a tiny sensor, if yes.

What about the 42.5mm 1.7 lens ? Dual IS 1 checked ? Dual IS 2 FW update .. ?

Hopefully D820 has 4K with A7R II video capability.

I get 3 batteries for the drone. Multiple batteries for the cameras and also 2 bank power of 13000mha each for my phone which will be the GPS and any camera that can be usb charged (RX100 for exemple). I will have all necessary safety gear for sure. Here is a picture of me on the summit of a volcano, 4000m altitude. I did not have any drone and regretted this more than ever. Imagine the drone footage here... (click on image for better quality, photo done with RX100. Similar one without me on my gallery done by the Nikon. See how much better, cleaner and nicer is the Nikon one) The thing below my hand is another volcano. That was in Guatemala. There is another volcano on the right that we dont see on the image. Super active. A picture is in my gallery: https://500px.com/photo/168838135/fuego-on-fire-by-loup-fsr?ctx_page=1&from=user&user_id=860266 We spent the whole night camping in front of it, at 3600m before summiting before sunrise. Never regretted that much not having a bloody drone with me to fly above the eruption. Would have been a world class incredible footage. Damn And by the way the 5200m we did in Bolivia was a preparation Trek for summiting a 6100m summit which we did not do cause a friend broke his collar bone and got surgery in La Paz. Thats the reason why there is actually no video of this Guatemala/Bolivia trip even though I have tons of footage (erupting volcano timelapse anyone..? )

I will have my 65L hiking pack. we go there 17 days and will do 2 5 day trek with full autonomy (camp equipment, food,...) So by putting things like tent and so on out of the bag, I easily fit the camera equipment somewhere. Last summer I summited a 5200m peak with a full backpack for 2 people cause my buddy carried a full pack of camera AND DJI phantom 3 which is a huge drone. Dont know how we did that. The mavic is going to make my life easier. A D810 does not scares me after transporting a Phantom 3 with me. I dont know if I should do a classic relaxed video of time lapses with aerial magnificent views with a nice music. Or a more dynamic video in this style : What do you guys think? I do not use tutorial, I just play with multiple settings on Photoshop using masks and local adjustments. And I use different techniques for each image cause I never remember what I did earlier

Base ISO is important for me. I won't do night shooting or very little because the camps wont be in the good spots, and because weather is so shitty that it often can rain in night even if forecast say otherwise (so can't let camera outside the tent). Also to make dynamic timelapses I need to zoom in the image a lot so no A7SII for timelapse. I had a 5D3 for a year which I hated. Couple images in my gallery (see first post) with it. DR was so horrible that it was always a pain to edit dramatic landscapes. D5200 400$ camera has been a relief vs 5D3. Understand that I don't care much of DR for the timelapse itself. A 6D is fine for a timelapse. I care of DR for the single RAW that I will extract from it, work 2 hours on photoshop to get a nice image and then sell. for weight : d810 is 880g, d7200 is 680g and d5500 is 450g. But with d810 you have a 1000g lens (14-24). An APSC tokina 11-20mm 2.8 is 550g. Overall 700g gain with D7200 and almost a kilo with D5500. When I know I spend 200$ more in each hiking piece of gear to win 100g over other gear... Worst than this the gimbal is 1kg. But I don't see myself without a gimbal anymore it gives so nice dynamic footages. Since I won't have many subjects except my buddy running in the rocks, having the gimbal allows for more dramatic shots. Statics shots in mountain are boring. The best weight package overall would be : D5500 for timelapses on my carbon tripod RX100v on gimbal for all videos with 80% 120p and 20% 4K Other option is A6500 instead of RX100 and or D810 instead of D5500. Main advantage of A6500 would be Deepth of field shots vs the RX100. But then I would need a special lens like a 35mm 1.8. But then why not use the Nikon body for that.. So I can let's say bring a 35mm 1.8 for the Nikon and shoot nice 1080p60p with it on the Nikon for potential DoF shots.

Thanks guys. Unfortunately I have to buy (have credits) B&H so no NX1. On top of it I need a 10mm non fisheye lens for landscapes anyway. @bigfoot great advice for the grad ND filter. That sounds like the only solution for getting a bit more DR during timelapsing. Cause I have checked and the A6500 is clearly way noisier than the D7200 when lifting shadows. I still do not know which is better in 120p : A7sII / A6500 / RX100 V. @Andrew Reid you used A6300 and RX100 IV, which one does best 120p? I am down to Nikon body + RX100 V or just A6500. Nikon body + RX100 V advantages: better DR which I value a lot for stills. RX100 lighter on the Gimbal. No need for changing settings between video and Photo cause dedicated camera. When the Nikon is on tripod for a 1h timelapse I can pass time by doing shots with the RX100 with the nice sunset light (having only A6500 makes it impossible, note that I also have to fly the drone at this time). RX100 stays on gimbal 100% time. No need to rebalance or mount it. A6500 advantages : overall slightly lighter package, better video than RX100 (in 120p ?) Another solution is Nikon body + A6500 or A7SII. Heavier but best quality in everything.

Thanks. Real world difference is huge. DR test with shadow lift : I let you guess which is 1dx2 and which is D810. I know the 1DXII is a good camera I am not saying otherwise. Just that for the price and considering I have no use of the high ISO, good AF in stills and tank body, it's a shame. I am not ready to pay 6K on a body where I can't play with DR beautifully like I do it on Nikons. It is easy to overcome with exposure blending. But I do timelapses and generally extract one RAW from it so I cant do multiple exposure shooting and therefore need max DR possible. As you can see I spend time on my post prod on images on photoshop and I have been frustrated to death with how noisy and not clean Canon images get when I push them. As you can see with Nikon bodies my result are clean. So I am more leaning towards a 2 body solution (ideally D810 + GH5) but in this scenario D5500 (for weight in hiking) + something. Open to any suggestion but would like to know the cleanest 120p between the bodies I mentioned and an idea of the difference.

I am out in Patagonia soon for trekking. I am gonna have a DJI Mavic for aerials, Nikon body (D7200, D5500 or D810) for timelapses and stills, and I need a video body. I might take a Crane gimbal with me (2 weeks of trekking, the weight will kill me......) What is the best 120p camera: a7sII / RX100 V / A6500, or other? Criteria: 1 - good clean 120p 2 - good 4K (for this I know a7sII>a6k5>rx100) 3 - good AF in video (a6k5>rx100V>a7sII) 4 - decent bokeh ( a7sII>a6k5>rx100) Ideally I would have one camera for stills + video but the Nikon bodies are not up to the game. The A7R II does not have slowmo, and the A7SII is not good enough for zooming in timelapses. A6500 dynamic range is not good enough for my landscape work. Amazing that yet no FF camera with DR > 14 stops with slowmo and 4K exists. Probably A7RIII or A7III .... I have taught about a 1DXII but I see major problems: file size in 4K, while hiking no computer with me. Overall price. Fact that you get worst still IQ than a D5500 for ten times the price (FOR MY USE, see gallery = I dont care about ISO, I need DR). Otherwise, FF body, 4K60p, 120p, amazing AF.... great stuff. My photos to give you an idea : https://500px.com/loup_f My latest video to give you my style and why I want slowmo (you can notice I had A7RII + RX100 combo here. Did not like the A7RII much and its DR is similar to D5500 for 6 times the price): https://vimeo.com/165075366 Thank you

I have found that the master curve just plays with contrast. As you can see in my grade, the image is almost too contrasty already so I use master curve not often. The independant R G B curves are much more interesting. They change contrast but colour in a nice way. Basically moving anything in the bottom of the B curve will increase blue in shadows. But you want a S shape. So the bottom goes down and the upper part goes up to get a S shape. The trick is to do different S bigger or smaller depending on the mood you want. What I did here for this atmosphere is a little bit of blue in the shadow (so a less pronounced S in the bottom of blue curve) and a little bit of red in highlight (so a more pronounced S on the upper part of Red curve) then I adjusted green curve accordingly. Doing so of course also increase contrast that's why I did not use the master curve. Playing with RGB curves is amazing, it gives ANY log footage a great look and can be tuned the way you like. I have compared to everything else (filmconvert, easy color in Premiere, Magic Bullet, ...) and I always got best results with RGB curve in color finale which lets you play easily with each curve then select a master opacity to adjust result. Also use sometimes the saturation and exposure sliders of Color Finale, a LUT, or the selective color corrector which is amazing (you pick red for exemple then you can adjust hue staruration of it in one click). All of the change have an opacity slider which makes perfect adjustment. Honestly guys try this thing and tell me if you ever look back. @Axel i am not a pro colorist, just an amateur doing travel videos (latest one here https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qO603YjuIoY ) As you say we are here to learn and I am sharing a good tool and a good method I found to make nice grades.

Thank you. I don't understand what's the matter with all the horrible grades. People should shoot in standard profile if they can't grade an image which is the easiest thing ever. I used color finale for Final Cut Pro which is amazing. The only thing you have to do is play with the three RGB curves independently. You make a S curve for each but adjust the S to your taste so that you independantly add or remove blue, red or green in each highlight or shadow. Then 20% saturation. And that's it. Add a LUT also with Color Finale and adjust opacity with the slider if needed or want a special look. I advice anyone here to get FCPX and Color Finale. The two best tool I have used. I tried millions of color grading techniques and tools and nothing come close for easiness of editing and grading.

This must be a joke right? Here is a 30sec (literally: curve+sat adjustment) grade:

C300II is amazing for AF. But I would love to have A6300 level which seems not really doable considering it has only Phase detection AF. But who knows... For me running in the field doing this type of video (my latest one) having AF in video is crucial. https://vimeo.com/165075366

Then the V2 brings Dual IS 2..... Let's see how it compares. Because they actually claim it brings Dual IS 2 and cosmetic change but no IQ change. Good to know the V1 is working well already. Can't wait to see your 180 fps shoot, and in the meantime if you have the time to give us a small Continuous AF video tracking test that would be sick

They look very different you will easy recognize. Old one: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/865111-REG/Panasonic_H_HS12035_Lumix_G_X_Vario.html New one: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1304868-REG/panasonic_h_hsa12035_lumix_g_x_vario.html

Great! but do you speak about the new V2 version of the lenses? Or the older ones? Apparently they say the V2 version is compatible with Dual IS 2, which should means the V1 is not. I am wondering. Hope you will tell me it was shot with V1 and that V2 are just cosmetics difference

What lens did you most enjoy to use? Which LUT did you use? Nice video man.

high iso looks good