Vesku

Nice clean low light videos. Can you remember how high iso you used with this bright lens? 400? 800?

This is my experience too. It is quite difficult to adjust manual WB just relying on the camera monitor. When watching at home the result looks different what I have thought in the field. A good EVF helps a little. White card gives often too neutral result. Many times the AWB works well. It should work so that when the video starts is stays the same. Evening with blue sky is difficult. Green forest looks too blue with AWB. People with very corloful clothes may fool AWB too.

I think using a gray card method in "interesting light" gives too neutral or "pure white" result. What is the right method to capture "golden hour" or other interesting scenes? Is it best to rely on screen or EVF or is it best to know by experience what kelvin degree suits best for the wanted result. AWB in Panasonic is not making images too neutral indoors or in colored lights. Gray card makes much more neutralizing.

Panasonic GH4 video exif shows WB kelvin degree and shifted values for red, green and blue (RGB). With AWB the kelvin degree may be the same while RGB values changes between slightly different scenes.

I see the HDR is too new for most. I think most wifes can see the difference between SDR and HDR.

I wonder if I have opened another Pandora's box and soon it will be closed. My question/assumption is that the plain manual kelvin adjustment is not as accurate as AWB or WB set by gray card because it is not balancing image color completely using RGB color correction. My experience is that usually I can get better white balance with AWB than with manual kelvin adjustment. A WB-lock would be good with AWB. AWB fails in some situations for example if a person with blue shirt comes in image.

I am curious if the AWB does other adjustments than plain kelvin adjust? When taking RAW photos (Panasonic) and using the camera AWB in Lightroom or ACR it contains kelvin degree and additional color shifts.

There are at least 3 ways to set WB. -Full auto WB -Choosing kelvin degree manually -Using (exposing) gray card and saving a WB preset Can I get the same result with manual kelvin degree than using auto WB or gray card? Does the camera AWB make additional adjustments for image color like green-red or blue-yellow adjustments so that it is impossible to get as good result by just setting manual kelvin degree. It is important to get right WB in video in the first place. It is also disturbing if the WB changes rapidly during a clip. A WB-lock would be nice if using AWB.

Panasonic DFD is not working in video.

Yes 4k photo is 0-255. That would be a good reason to use 4k photo in GX85. You can get 256 shades/channel compared to 219/channel. Finer gradations and better grading source. Other than that it uses the same 100Mbs codec. Audio is 128kb. I dont know if the GX85 normal video has better audio bitrate. GH4 has 1.5Mbs uncompressed audio so the 4k photo 128kb is a drawback.

So the GH5 has at least 6000 x 3375 pix sensor = 20.25 Mpixel

In my GH4 there is no more moire in 4k photo video but it uses 100% sensor crop. GX85 down samples a bit. Can it have different NR or processing for 4k photo? The codec is similar.

Has anyone used the "4k photo" feature to record 4k video files? It has some advantages compared to normal 4k video like auto iso in M and iso limiter.

I think the colors are close. GX85 is more contrasty and GH4 captures little more gamut and dynamic range.

The old GH4 seems to have more dynamic range in video than GX85, G7 and G85. It has more noise in high iso but it has not so aggressive NR so it is not smoothing details as much. Pure sensor noise is quite close in RAW photos.

My GH4 dyn range survives much better in similar scenes than G7 in this example video.

How can GX85 (and G7, G85) be so much cleaner in high iso than the GH4. DXOmark scores GH4 sensor in high iso better.

Beautiful images and places. Why overexposure and clipped highlights in many clips? Is there problems in G7 dynamic range?

My opinion: Auto exposure is not more right or proper way to adjust exposure than manual. It is best to use manual if a user has time and skill to get what he want. For me the auto exposure is the easiest way to get right brightness to video image in changing conditions using EV comp and AE-lock if needed. I shoot 30P and 60P and watch my videos with a high end TV and motion enhancement so the shutter speed is rarely an issue. The most important to me is to get brightness right and avoid some dangers like too small aperture or too slow shutter in dim light. I have watched lately hundreds and thousands of my videos all shooted with auto exposure and 99% of them has perfect or good exposure (brightness). I doubt if I can get better success rate with manual.

This topic is about video exposure. Auto exposure, manual exposure, ND-filters, exposure tips, exposure tools, different exposing styles and looks, old rules and new ways, etc. Not about favorite lenses or audio or only for very talented film makers. EOSHD front page: "Welcome to the EOSHD forum. The knowledge-base for all mirrorless, DSLR and pro video cameras." I think amateurs are welcome too.

I see serious old people talking "manual is manual..." P.S. English is not my native language.

New exiting exposure features for Panasonic 4k video: -Auto iso in M -Auto iso upper limit -Shows all exposure values in all modes -Changing PASM dialing just mode dial -Showing frame exif when extracted image from video -Different aspect ratios 1:1 4:3 3:2 I figured that using 4k photo feature I can shoot normal 4k video with all those useful features which are lacking in normal video mode.

Sorry for too aggressive opinions. It is very important to learn how the exposure works and how it makes different styles of images. I am trying to say that when knowing all the theory I can get the same result with automatic exposure aids than using full manual. It is just more easy to roll one dial than two and getting the right starting point for brightness or exposure combinations. I am not using a ND filter so I am more free to use different combinations. When using AE-lock the auto exposure stays the same after a clip has started. One need for auto exposure is my zoom lenses which dims when zooming in. The auto exp keeps brightness constant when zooming. I am using manual exposure too in some cases when I feel I have time and the light is difficult.

That is the idea of auto exposure or setting the exposure for video start using auto. There are so many other things to concern and think. Compositing, framing, focusing, camera movement, subject movement, re-focusing, interviewing, walking, holding camera steady enough, planning next clip, enjoying the situation or music... the list is endless

Seeing the aperture, shutter speed and iso is important when starting recording. If using aperture priority I can select the aperture which gives the most wanted shutter speed. If using auto iso I could select the bigger aperture for lower auto iso etc. just like when taking photos. If I could see all the parameters I could dial exposure also during a clip if the light changes dramatically like when the sun goes behind the clouds and my shutter speed goes too low for tele shots or too low for post stabilization in the woods. When using auto iso or auto shutter speed with GH4 the exposure transition is much smoother compared to full manual if I need to dial brighter or darker during a clip.