visionrouge

Within a country completely locked to travel, a foreign business is very hard to manage remotely. Globaltime being a propaganda newspaper, it will be hard for them to speak about this. I have witnessed so many businesses closing their factory in China for this reason that I will not say that I'm surprised.

I'm so sorry you feel offended by my previous post.😘 As you admit yourself not having any geek knowledge to determine the exact usage a NVMe drive; I was just trying to clarify the post you where sharing. It was, in no way, an attack to the filmmakers community that knows shit about technical stuff but still keep re-posting absurdities. My only goal is to make this great forum a better place with my real life experience (and love.🥰) I always had a commitment to support the filmmaker community. I can only bow to your message and ask you for ultimate forgiveness.🙏 please, please. I hope my personal hack last Sunday, on this forum, with an easy way to reset the Canon R5 timer is enough to be absolved. Please accept my full apologies if you felt I was having condescending tone or look like I was some kind of geek. Even if my degree was related to computer science, believe me; I have tried to stay away from techies and other complicated process my entire life. A quick fact check on my previous post and personal blog should reassure you. The truce is far less interesting. It's almost sad, even. I'm a very simple camera guy. I have been shooting only few days so far; made a count last year and it was just about 1,000 shooting for the past 15 years. I have put this in my humble website if you like to give a look by following my profile name. I know it's a low and this is obliviously due to my lack of skills as a cameraman too. I really sucks at everything I commit. My client are obscure companies like Disney, IBM, Apple... as you may check. My eyes start to be full of water when writing this down. The "Filmmaker" title's is way beyond my reaches as my old age is now a translation of back pain and loss of eyesight. I might be retiring without even getting the glorious title of "DoP". Ok, you are making me cry now. It was not a good idea to write about this.😢 And you know the worst of all; I don't even own a Canon R5. I had to ask for help here from a fellow member to test and validate my findings. Only this way it have been proven to work. The saddest thing of all;I have invested on two Sony FS7's few years back and may never be able to shoot with a DSLR. I',m stuck using cine lens and other heavy gear forever. That mean that I will not use my hack for myself and will donate the entire result to the the community I was hoping to join once. Thank you for listening. Here is love again ❤️💖❤️for you and the beautiful movies you have been making all over the world that I can see nowhere.

You are taking sentence out of the context. Yes, a drive is not removable easily from the enclosure and, no you may not swap drive on the fly. It's like saying SSD are not removable media. Still, they are used everyday as removable media cause the interface is something else that what is inside the enclosure. But this system is an enclosure for NVMe drive that will put the heat away from the card reader , allowing cheaper and very large drive capacity. The heat generated by the card can be way easier dissipated than a CFExpress card. I actually have such enclosure for another project, it's all aluminium with a thermal pad around And, by the way, you should talk to DJI; this is what they use on their Inspire 2 as drive.... But they change the connector type to be more sturdy. If you look at ZITAY product, they already successfully implement such solution for black-magic camera, without a need for extra external power. (CFFast to SSD) The product needs to be tested, but it specifically states R5 and Z6 / Z7 (and other C300 camera) It have a screw thread to secure it to a cage. This will help dissipate heat. And if you go for large version, it's a great option to reduce overall cost. CFExpress card are kinda 512 GB max, with nvme you can go to 4TB for similar price. You unscrew the drive when you have 4TB of data, so, maybe one a day. This product come with a cover to push the door switch and so let the cable going out. So the door will be open during shooting. I have 0 test so far, but it's look great to me on the paper. I let you do some research on their website, and not just pick up sentences from a different discussion in a blog.

Great finding, I was looking for such without success few weeks back. I guess t's about market demand versus offer! I did similar test on my DJI Inspire 2 and I did not lost any data writing raw 5K. I'ts also a money saver as you only buying the drive and not the card. This is one way to solve 2 issues at once. USD 150 if you found them online in China. https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.28.29076df3HVdowO&id=626009844453 The price will be falling down as soon as competition kicks in.

Like external recorder on top of camera-hand held do not exist? We are not living in the same planet. More people try to explain canon choice, less it makes sense. All Canon explanations was about electronics that can't hold warm temperature since day one. I's call "overheating" on all their documentation for a rason. But as this do not work with the external no limit recording aspect; there is now a new idea floating around about your skin getting burn, but only for internal recording not external cause the camera is on tripod?! And that's why removing the timer is so dangerous? But nowhere to be seen on the R5 user manual a specific warning on external recording and heat? Why? Just because you want to defend Canon and their infamous timer choice? If you believe such fairy tale;I have some interesting business proposal for you investing on offshore account that will brings you 20% interest in 3 minutes... And please explain me the "overheat" compare to "do hot to touch" Why do they even call it "overheat" and not display a "to warm to touch" logo? Why we only talk about this now and not when it all started? And, wait. Explain the 1 hour cooling time? Especially if it's only to not get people burn by touching and nothing to do with internal temperature. One hour to be able to touch it again? Really? It's time to wake up.

That explanation do not make sense. When using an external recorder; the camera is also getting super hot and Canon have never limit recording when you do not have a card inside. Without any hack, you can record forever. So any exercise to explain that electronic overheat and need an hour to cool down or that people get burned and other fantasy do not stand when you start talking "external recording" without time limitation. How all electronics inside the R5 will not fries if you keep recording externally for hours under a body that you can barely touch, but suddenly need limitations, even when using inside a fridge? Canon need to explain me this very funny temperature management standard. Either the camera is not safe running at hot temperatures and external recording should be limited. Either the camera is safe for long recording and the timer should go.

Try to find these for CFEcpress? So the card is outside the camera?

Canon Just released a Firmware V1.1.1 for R5 and R6 Be aware of possible lock down on my hack finding last Sunday. Even if I think it will be a very fast answer to roll out a firmware in only 3 days, that's still a possibility. At least, it may be able to do a file comparison between V1.1.0 et V1.1.1 to see what changed is any.

Penta Pi### contacted me and said they will write about it but nothing happens. Gerald Und### too, but so far nothing on his channel. The new firmware V1.1.1 have more coverage even if he brings very limited functionalities. I can notice 2 positive articles https://www.4kshooters.net/2020/09/09/canon-eos-r5-firmware-1-1-0-overhating-tests-and-results/ and https://www.diyphotography.net/the-eos-r5-overheating-issue-is-solved-and-its-a-super-simple-only-slightly-hacky-workaround/ It still better than nothing!

No, No need to do anything It's very simple. Canon do a very simple calculation. When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo. If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag" At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time". This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there. There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time. Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC. It's a way of doing coding something very fast. They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working. But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately. So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory. When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM. So the flag is now remove and the camera can start. Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem. You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode. So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working. That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.

Thanks for finally put my words in video. Do you mind if In put this one into my post? https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/

Confirmed by dellfonic user on magic lantern. This is the final refinement on my hack. You have the right time for your recordings!

I have another step for anyone to test also. I should work, but need one beta tester to be sure. Follow the previous procedure to push forward the day as I discovered. When you see that the "overheat logo" is gone; turn off the camera using power button. [this is the extra step] At this time, the "overheat flag" is now written into memory. Turn back on the power with the power button. The camera is now booting from a regular boot. So if you have no warning here, the camera is absolute fine with temperature. This not a "special boot" anymore And the beauty of it, you can now push back the day as the actual day. So with this extra step, all your clip are even at the right time. Can someone test this ? Thanks I will update on visionrouge.net if so.

I do not have a R5, another user MagicLantern user did it for me if you check my posting. https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/ The battery grip will act as a regular battery, so it's a no go. It hold the same door switch as I have understand. You can either use the screw in the door idea or use the dumb battery option that I prefer.

This is primary tested by one user, he put all his camera details as reference. Please wait to get backed and test with the Firmware 1.1 also. 1) I really don't see why the card format should have any impact there as the camera is not recording during the shut down. This time, this is just the date/stmap that is modified and not read at this specific boot. 2) Yes, at each time your camera is displaying the overheat logo, you need to increment to the next day, hours, month, year. But if your camera, during lunch break is able to cool down by itself anyways, you can put back any date. The idea is to trick the timer only when overheating flag is on. The camera at boot look at (current time - overheat warning time). if it's more than the predefined "fake recover time" you are good to go.

Well, one tester is not enough, please try to do the experience if you have a R5. The procedure is explained here. https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/ In short: - Power the camera with a external battery and close the door beside the R5 (you can also do the screw trick if you like) - Record video until you see the overheating logo, or even until the camera shut down. - Turn off the camera by using the power button so your recording parameters (ISO and so one) are saved. - Turn back on the power. - Go to the menu, Change the time of the day to +3 hours at least (or add a day) - Drop the power by disconnecting the external battery - wait 30 seconds - Put back the external battery. the overheat issue should be gone. (if not, you may actually be in real overheat situation), try in 10mn... Please share your findings.

Ok, my trick works apparently. Tested by yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum Record as you wish. When overheat occur. stop recording. Change the date. Drop the power (using the screw story or dumb battery) Put it back. Timer is gone! All camera parameters are saved. No need to open the camera, no need to lose your clip. BOOOMMMMM https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=24827.msg230515#msg230515

Ok, here are new thouht after thinking a bit. Something is bothering me is the recovery time. Even without regular camera battery, or by pushing the time. The recovery time is not reduced. If it was just a flag to a memory that start to count, it will not be able to know how long the camera was actually off. It have to be a counter, not just a date stamp difference. This overheat counter IS inside this chip for sure. cause it can't hold 2 different date and the internal counter are quite limited. Either the current overheat time is written inside a eeprom, and so compare on boot, either there is a timer that keep running even without battery. After 2 hour of "fake cool down"; the camera is powering again and check the value of this counter. If it reached the end, you can go again. If not, you have to wait. The second possibility is that the camera compare the time on boot and do a simple subtraction to know if the elapsed time is enough. The various test kind of shows that it is not working. To make sure about the second possibility and twist it a bit I would love someone to do a simple test. Put the camera on overheat and lock (after 20mn recording video) and keep the battery door open with the scerw hack or use dumb battery the entire time Change the date or time to move it to the next day. Now, try 2 different things: Remove the camera battery with the drop system. Is restarting check the new day? (But not the flag?) Or simple turn off the camera, remove the battery and start again. is the second restart is able to do the math between both time? (So the overheat time is stored on eeprom/a counter is runnin during no battery time) Does it makes sense to test this?

Ye, I also think so. There are other parameters that are rested when removing the Battery cell, there is another chip righ aside this one and I will guess it's a tiny eeprom as usual. If you put some fact together: -Removing the battery cell reset the fake overheat timer, reset the time and date and few shooting parameters, but keep others as custom functions. So a memory is also powered with this battery. This is very common and few RTC chip also have internal memory to do 2 functions in one (RTC+limited amount of parameters) This RX8130 do not have a memory register. So it have to be another chip somewhere to do so. -The amount of chip powered by the 3.3V cell have to be as limited as possible and more likely close to the cell area. This is to keep backup, the power usage should be as tiny as possible. It uses 300 Nano Ampere in sleep mode as reference. -If it was only a countdown with an IRQ, removing the battery during during the recording and putting back should not affect the countdown. The counter should keep running as soon as the "power good" is restored. So again, it points out to another memory that hold the counter flag. I still believe a solution as magic lantern is the best way to go. Either the counter inside the RTC is used for the fake overheat warning, Either it's just a RTC for the time and date. A chip with a memory along the power line coming from the cell battery is more likely to have a register that can be access and changed by a side software. This software is extremely simple and write time to time a 0 flag in the fake overheat register. The fake overheat timer starts during the full power state and write a flag when a normal internal timer is reached. This is more likely than using a specific chip for that. Only because the flag is written at the end of the count that removing the battery during shooting allows to restart. So finding this flag and overwriting it will solve this. I don't see a use of this RTC for overheating purpose as it have very limited alarm feature. (The overheating have 2 steps for example) I really see a register powered by the 3.3V, so a unique chip alone, not part of any large IC, that holds the key. That should be also easier to access as it's a dedicated chip, ore likely from a generic brand more than from Canon, so the way to access it should be in a pdf somehow.

I found crazy that the RTC is a dedicated chip place in the middle of nothing and so easy to access. I have a simple question. The RTC holds the time and day and can be access by the I2C bus. Either to program the time and the alarm and countdown. But when a alarm is set up, Pin 6 is the IRQ line. Usually, the IRQ ask the processor to check what is happening by reading the I2C but and read the value in this chip. Either to go from nothing to waring (and reprogram a new 5mn timer) or cut off the recording if they were already at this stage. Is simply cutting the pin 6 signal enough for not triggering the IRQ signal and shoot forever? (and keep time of the day and date active?) This is the easy and simple way of programming a chip. They could also have periodic check and do not use /IRQ pin. But according to the bad design previous saw here, I'm strongly suggesting this is a last minute design and so IRQ is used for overheat timer. You need to have this pin a High level with a pull up resistor linked to pin 8 if it's not already the case (low level is IRQ Active)

Someone suggested that the overheat icon should be changed with a middle finger on a future firmware... I love this idea!🖕

Thanks for sharing. It's look like they tweaked the recovery time and add new functionality to the infamous counter that now include the length of previous recording in the balance. If you shoot short clip,s you can shoot more of them (from 22 to 96 now in his testing) Recovery time is about 2 minutes wait for 1 minute recovery, or one minute wait for one minute recovery inside a fridge. Still a bit far from the graph I can see on this post threat. Recovery temperature look way faster than this. Bye the way; 0 apology from Canon so far. The best sentence is: "We have and will continue to be transparent about recording limits for the EOS R5" 😂 Like you can't shoot any HQ mode after 60 picture during an hour inside a fridge... Transparency? Please Canon, let me know where in your manual you explain this? The max recording time is reset if you remove the battery cause we don't check temperature at boot but be assured we are very conservative on temperature management.

It's always laike this with all Canon camera. If you lose the power, all parameters are not saved. But here is what you should do. Put your camera parameters as you like until you are ready to shoot. Turn off the camera with the power switch (The recording parameters as shutter speed, aperture, iso,...) are saved there Turn on the camera. Record and drop the battery when you like. When you put again the battery, the parameters will be the same as last turn on/off sequence.

Of course it is, and of course the actual temperature readings are below overheat threshold. I can't imaging Canon doing not one reading and shut-down if it goes to high during 15mn of normal recording in 8K or during the boot. And actually, the TLV61046ADBVR Just around the RAM module) have it's own temperature shutdown that you can't turn off. It's a Output Voltage Boost Converter, I can assure you that other component will do the same to not burn. I'm just playing as dumb as the one saying the "remove battery during recording" trick will kill your camera with overheat. In one hand, they are Canon fan boy, but in another hand, they accept the R5 engineering as the worst possible. We all agree a camera should overheat when recording, but Fanboy think it's natural for Canon to design a software that do not read temperature at boot!

There is no way this is a lack of sensor that push them to create a time limit. The overheat lock-down is artificial and not based on actual temperatures reading for most of the scenarios. Just to make my point easy to understand: There are 2 possible reasons for that: -Avoiding this camera to compete with more expensive models. -Doing a fast/cheap software development where you do not read temperature sensor, but just base all on time the camera is recording video. I will remove the possibility of the absence of temperature sensors as the ( MT53D512M32D2DS-053 ) which is the 2Go Ram have internal sensors, as well as most of the component on this board. Another example is the one just on top of the card reader: DA9213 Multiphase 20A Output Current -40 to +85 ºC temperature range and have temperature monitoring flag 125 °C Waring 140 °C Critical. I can keep going for all the chip that I can read the reference on the provided pictures. Yes, any electronic component have a temperature where it should be working fine for ages. And yes, there are real overheating situation where the camera should be turned off. But having a logo telling you that the camera is too hot that can be turned off by removing the battery is not right. That means the temperature is not checked at boot up, neither during the 15 following recording minutes in 8K? How this is supposed to be acceptable? How this is safe for my equipment? Yes, this is far for being rational in an engineering point of view.