Quirky

Looks like you've got the knack for it, and that matters a lot. Where you may be still lacking is nothing that some more practise and focusing on details wouldn't take care of. No doubt you know by now that it's about things that have very little to do with the gear. It's more about things like vision and attention to detail. Like the careful use of shooting angles, to avoid putting the main subject/talent in the smack centre of the screen, to avoid excessive movement of the camera for the sake of camera movement, and so on. Who am I to give critique, well, maybe just a peer in a somewhat similar situation, repeating the talking points I received from a well known seasoned filmmaker and former TV cameraman not so long ago. As for the reel itself, I think it may be a bit too long, and you might want to shorten it by removing some of the less coherent clips from it. Make it short and snappy. As for the (obligatory) excuses, there is an old English saying, "when in doubt, leave it out." If you're in doubt about the material shot before you had a clue, consider leaving it out, and replacing it with new and better stuff. You should not hurry these things. Also the aforementioned practise is likely to fix most of the damage done by attending art school. Even though it may take some time. ;) So all in all, as long as your new filmmaking enterprise is concerned, I think your biggest challenges will concern your business skills and ability to hustle, rather than your shooting skills. Personally I find the latter one of the toughest challenges these days. So good luck with the new business.

I'm still a bit puzzled about the mention of full pixel readout, and wonder if that's really the case. Given the fact that we've not seen that feature in any (Sony) camera under $1k, and even those have less megapixels to read. And now they (or just the rumour mill?) claim a $550 entry level consumer model with a 24-megapixel sensor does the same? Doesn't seem to make much sense to me. Apart from Sony, the sources that talk about the full pixel readout haven't seen, let alone used the camera yet, but those who have, like Sebastian Wöber in that Cinama5D article, don't. He also states "it becomes apparent that there is some aliasing going on in the A5100" in his test report, which would indicate either lack of an AA filter or line skipping/pixel binning of some sort, or both. Something similar to the a6000. And why put such tech in a camera whose potential buyers aren't likely to appreciate, let alone need it? What's the point of giving full pixel readout and 13 stops of dynamic range and then lock and hide them inside some pre-baked portrait and "selfie" modes of a hipster camera that has no EVF, no mic input or headphone jack? Oh well, whatever. But I think it's a good idea to wait and see what the camera really is, and not amplify the hype prematurely, as usual. Not that I would mind if all the hype was true, but I think it would be a bit, um, ironic, in lack of a better word.

I don't really care about the histogram, but I kinda like the audio meters, and the fact that you can hide them quickly if you wish. The remaining indicator is nice to have, too. I'm not sure if they've changed anything about the battery remaining indicator, but the update is a clear improvement overall. Worth installing.

I'm mostly a one-man band, too, and my RX10 is capable of recording pretty decent sound through its own mic input, but I still sometimes use an external recorder off-camera, anyway. If it's not recording master audio, I use it to record 'ambient audio,' which I then mix into the final edit. It's sometimes handy when you're shooting multiple short clips or with two cameras. Maybe it's just me, but whenever I've got the luxury of time and gear carrying capability (or slaves), I don't mind the extra work. I've had the BMPCC only for a couple of weeks now (and for the most of that time I've been too busy with other things to play with it), but I've already established that the Zoom H1n is a handy and inexpensive companion for the BMPCC. I just need to figure out ideal levels for both BMPCC input and the H1 output for optimal results. I think I'll also experiment with my Røde Videomic Pro directly into the BMPCC input. Just for the heck of it. I installed the firmware update and did a quick 'yawp test,' and things looked pretty fine to me. Didn't really do a proper clipping test with a mic, though, and although my louder yawp didn't seem to cause clipping, I can't (yet) say is it fast enough. No doubt we'll find out soon enough after some shooting. Other than that, I find this update worth installing. It changes the way the arrow buttons work with the aperture blades, but you get used to it quickly. The down arrow also hides the histogram and the audio meter if you wish to have a clear screen.

No comment on the whether or not you should post a trailer here, because I'm not a host in this forum. You're probably right about the poor visibility in that place, but I think the Screening Room is a nice idea in general. I think it just needs a bit more advertising. Besides, a trailer posted here may get more visibility here at first, but only for a short while. After which it will start sinking into oblivion fast, whereas in the Screening Room it'll stay relevant longer. In other words, the simple solution to the eyeball dilemma would be more effort from both the administrators/hosts and the users in this forum to make the Screening Room more popular. Talk about it, move unrelated clips to it, maybe even link to clips inside it, compose songs about it and so on, so that people will notice its existence and start flocking there more often, and eventually automatically. Well, just my 2c.

Now BMPCC Gets Audio Levels, Remaining & Histogram, too, yay! :) Blackmagic just released a new firmware update, and this time the Pocket Cinema camera gets some of the UI goodies, too. From Blackmagic website: Sounds good. Although I believe most BMPCC users are using separate recorders for master audio, anyway, but those are nice to have features. Going to give them a try, as soon as I have installed the new firmware. I have noticed that frame dropping bug, too. First I thought I had a dodgy SD card. Then I realised the clip was okay when played back in the computer screen.

Ah, that was it! I've seen it a long time ago, but had forgotten the name. Thanks for the reminder, FilmMan. (with an apt username, it seems) :)

My friendly reminder was not aimed at you alone, but to all the drama queens in this thread. But since you felt compelled to go personal and start criticising my contributions here, let's check some facts: You have submitted 24 of the total of 73 messages (so far) in this thread alone. That's one third of all messages, 5 to 8 comments per page, by you alone. Quite a few, if not most of them arguing with someone about opinions rather than the subject on topic. Looks like you're setting a trend rather than leading by example here, and yet you blame everyone else for the sinking signal to noise ratio. So yes, you're right, looks like I'm far behind you, according to a quantitative analysis. I should probably thank you for all those kind superlatives, which coming from you are compliments, and I always prefer quality over quantity. ;) As for my contributions, by all means feel free to simply ignore them. I won't mind, in fact I recommend it.

Yes, seeing the news in my Twitter feed this morning was a sad start for the day indeed. I've seen most, if not all of his movies, and liked his work in most of them. Everybody knows him from the Dead Poets' Society, Jakob The Liar and maybe even Fisher King, and many will no doubt remember less successful yet great drama movies like Good Morning, Vietnam, and The Final Cut, for example. Apart from the One Hour Photo, he did another serious role as the main villain, in a murder drama set in Alaska, which also featured Maura Tierney, I think. I just don't remember the name of the movie. Anyone? Anyway, he was one of my favourite Hollywood actors, and it his passing is a sad loss. RIP, great entertainer.

The D4S is an expensive 'pro' camera. Like the Df, it's not really a mainstream camera bought by the masses. Therefore something clearly cheaper tagged with buzzwords like action might seem to "make sense" from Nikon's POV. Although I think that a rumour making sense is an oxymoron. Apparently the action buzzword means yet another dSLR with higher top ISO number, slightly faster and more low light tolerant AF with umphty-nine AF spots and frames per second in continuous mode, maybe with some basic video features slapped on. Ho hum. Nevertheless, this is just a mere rumour so far, and arguing whether or not a rumour makes sense is a bit pointless, isn't it. Wake me up if Nikon actually release something genuinely new and interesting. Vague rumours aren't enough.

Hey ladies, just a friendly reminder about the fact that your cat fights are only adding topic litter.

The flicker-free life was implied with the "you're in a 230V/50Hz PAL land." But you're right, maybe that wasn't obvious enough. It's not only fluorescent lights or computer/TV screens, but also billboards, price/info panels on service stations, home appliance panels, etc, etc.

For stills, yup, for video, nope. Which internet would that be? I take it you're aware of the fact that shooting in 25/50p and compressing/uploading for YouTube/Vimeo is not considered a major problem by most PAL shooters. Creating compelling enough content is usually considered a more significant challenge. Frame rate is not that critical online, and since you are in the 230V/50Hz PAL land, your native 25p (50p) would be a better choice in general. IMO, anyway. Unless you're aiming specifically for the US/Japan/Korean DVD or TV channel market, which I don't think you are. So I for one would prefer a camera that does 25/50p, or a region switchable one. But it's your preferences, your money, your choice, of course. The fact that the Samsung models offer only 30p even in PAL models makes their video features look more like consumer bling than a serious attempt for quality video. There seem to be no 'puzzling evidence' to challenge that notion. So it's either that, or they only care about their domestic (and possibly US) market. Which would be a bit daft, wouldn't it. Sounds to me like you've already made up your mind about the NX30, and you're just trying to get social approval for buying one from the EOSHD community. But you know what, the "scary" truth is, it's all up to you. It's your personal preferences, your money, your decision. You don't need, nor should you really even ask for an approval of the online crowd. After all, you're supposed to get a camera for yourself, not for the crowd. Since you clearly fancy the NX30, go ahead and buy the damn thing already. It doesn't matter what other people think about it. If it feels 'right' in your own hands, just go for it.

In order to make sensible lens suggestions, one should first have an idea about what you're planning to do with the lens. You say you'd like to get a decent wideangle lens with a limited budget, and two of the lenses you're listing are kit zoom lenses, one with a FT and one with a Nikon mount. So that brings up the question what is it that you wish to accomplish with those lenses? Are you going to shoot stills or video, or both? Why not going for primes? From those lenses he only one that makes sense is the 14mm Panasonic. IMO, anyway. As for using the Speedbooster made for BMCC with GH4. I think you'd be wasting your money on Nikon mount lenses with that particular adapter. I'd get a proper mFT one instead, or use native mFT lenses. They'd be much comfier to use with the GH4, too. I've seen other mFT primes, like a new Olympus 2.8/17mm for slightly under 100€, and no doubt you'd find other and better used ones for about the same money. Good luck with the hunt.

Yes, I was just being (trying to be) sarcastic. The suggestion to go out to actually shoot something with one's camera, that was the radical part. ;)

That's like radical, dood. Don't be such a buzzkill, fuzz. :P

Exactly. ;) Great, looks like you're making progress, now you're very close to finally getting it. As for the poor reading skills in this forum, yeah, surely that's true for some of us, and not just you. But I think I'm done with this now. Either you get the point of the video and the blog post or you don't. Either way is fine, I don't really care.

So, I take it you actually have done a same kind of scene by lighting it with a candle, iPhone and a desk lamp metered for 12,800 ASA/ISO, and then shooting the scene with a film camera using 5217 at 120fps? If you have, I'd love to see that. Scanned and uploaded in Vimeo/YouTube. Just out of curiosity. FWIW, I do like the look of daddy Eastman's film stock, or at least the films shot on it. But none of this is relevant in this particular context, is it. Umm... nope. Not the hardcore "PIPPs." They will always complain about something, mostly about something irrelevant. Not just in this particular thread or even this particular forum, not just now. In general. Give it a try, and shoot the same scene at ISO12,800/120fps on the 5217, and then scan an upload it to Vimeo/YouTube. Even if you could actually pull that off, Gladys & the PIPPs would have a peepin' party. Many of them wouldn't even notice it was shot on film. Many of them would be too young to know what film looks like. But everyone would have a strong opinion about what's wrong with it, anyway. Regardless of the content or context. Quite. By adding more light, even night would become day. Anyway, I agree, looks like there is indeed no point in your buying the A7s. That would be an utter waste of your money. Great, looks like you may have got the point, after all. :P

You can get the Sony Sony ECM-XYST1M hotshoe mic for around 150€ or thereabouts, depending on the place you buy it from. You also get 15% or more off the Sony peripherals in the Sony online store upon registering your camera. I don't own that mic but looks like it's decent for the price, and you also get a mic signal out and a cable with it, so it's not limited to the hotshoe connection only. You could plug it in the H1 audio recorder, for example. My suggestion would be to get both the hotshoe mic and the (circa 95€) Zoom H1n, either right away or eventually. Both equipped with a fluffy wind protector, of course. That way you can record both with the onboard mic and a second audio track with the Zoom, and then assemble a great sounding audio track in post. That's worth the extra hundred or so. Another dual audio route would be to buy the H1n and a Røde Videomic or Videomic Pro, for example, to accompany the Zoom, and just use the internal mic of the a6000 for reference audio. Either a stand for the recorder/mic or a flash bracket, or both, would be very useful, too. I've used such a combo, and still do, and for price of the H1 + Røde Videomic combo the performance is good. As for the a35 manual controls in video mode, ouch, didn't know that. That's a bit of a bummer. Looks like the non-articulating lcd screen was not the only thing they've cut costs in the case of that model.

You do know that's still considered blasphemy, right? ;) Almost as bad as mentioning the N-word in vain.

Don't worry about the language, the internet is a global place. As for choosing a camera, well, it's always tricky, as none of them is perfect, but many of them are nice. You just have to pick the one that feels 'right' in your hand. So go and try to find a camera store where you can handle the camera and try out all the buttons and dials yourself, and ask questions from the salespeople if necessary. You'll figure it out, eventually, along with some more online research. Besides, whichever camera you end up choosing, it'll take some time before you really master it. GH4 and A7s would both be nice options, along with some other models, too.

I have no comment on which of those should you buy for yourself, it's your money, your decision. However, if you're shooting with a Sony SLT camera now and your emphasis is more than, or as much on video as in stills, why would you even consider a dSLR in the first place? Well, suppose the Canon lenses without an aperture ring are easier to use in video mode than most typical dSLR ones without aperture ring, including the Sony A-mount ones, but still... As for the no audio imput in the a6000, well, you can attach the Sony hotshoe mic and possibly some other audio gear too. The other option to bypass the no mic input issue is using an external recorder like the Star or the Ninja 2 and use the audio inputs of the recorder. Or, just settle for the good ol' dual audio with an external audio recorder. Doing it like the big boys. As for the SLT a35 not having manual control for ISO, are you absolutely sure about that? I have been under the impression that all Sony interchangeable lens cameras have manual control for ISO. In manual mode you can also control shutter speed when shooting video. It's only the autofocus mode that insists on shutter set to auto. Set the focus to manual, and you're able to set both shutter speed and aperture manually, as well as ISO. At least that's the way it's being done in all the other SLT models. In other words, set the camera to M mode, set the AF to M mode, and choose your preferred ISO, don't leave it in Auto mode, and you're all set. Then, the only practical annoyance left is the fact that changing aperture while in video mode is tedious, practically a no-go. Better to use either variable ND filters or manual lenses. Or both. Which brings me to the money saving tip; If you wish to improve the video shooting capabilities of your existing SLT camera without buying a new camera, let alone a whole new system, just start buying some Samyang Cine lenses or some other manual lenses which you can use with an adapter. The M42 ones are one very inexpensive option. You can also use Leica R lenses, for example, but that requires a change of the mount in the lens. The adapter plates aren't that expensive or hard to change, though. Since you've already got a Sony system with at least one lens, and possibly some other gear, too, the a6000 would be a logical and cheaper choice from those two. Although you could use Sony A-mount lenses with a Canon, too, but not as fluently. I believe there is an adapter for that, at least a manual one. The rest is up to you and your personal preferences.

Trois points pour monsieur Jason. :)

Nah, I'm fine thanks. The BMPCC was a part of a larger trade-in deal with more stuff in my case, I got a decent deal, and it was some other stuff I needed to wait, so no worries. But now I'm curious about the actual delivery times people have been facing recently with those discounted cameras. Many bigger dealers have aleady put a sold out card on their virtual BMPCC shelf, and gone back with the original price, so hod did it go for those of you who just recently ordered the discounted BMPCC? Just curious.

I don't own a GH4 and I don't know what kind of camera you're using now, but basically how you adjust focus, aperture and shutter speed depend on the camera and the adapter. Usually adjusting the shutter speed in the camera will always be the same. Changing the aperture depends on the lens and the adapter. Also whether or not AF will work depends on the lens, the adapter and the camera. If you have a simple manual adapter with no electrical contacts, you set the shutter speed as usual, and you adjust the aperture from the aperture ring of the lens. In case the lens doesn't have an aperture ring, like those Canon EF lenses, you've got three options; -change the aperture from the aperture control ring in the adapter, if the adapter has one (only a few do) -use an adapter that supports electronic aperture control, which means those more expensive active adapters or, -you're stuck with fully open aperture. All that is basic info that should be easy to find with a simple Google or YouTube search. For example, just to test this, I entered the words "lens adapters for micro four thirds" into the search field of YouTube, and got over 16,000 results, many of which reviews and tutorials for different lens adapters. Just go and try it yourself. Some of the videos may be crap, but it's probably easier for you to learn by watching the videos than reading these comments on these forums. So, do some more research before you decide which kind of adapter you'll go for. Or maybe you'll end up trading your existing Canon lenses for the native Panasonic lenses, after all.