Mozim

Hey, I regularly shoot videos of Mountainbike events and my clients usually want to have the final result within a couple days, sometimes even hours after the event is finished. I'm currently editing on a mid-2013 MacBook Pro 15" Retina, 2.4 GhZ i7, 8GB memory and a 256GB SSD hard drive. The issue I have is related to the storage space... well lack of storage space that is. When I'm done shooting the event, I have between 50 and 200GB of video material from my cameras. Once that is converted to ProRes, the file sizes far exceed the storage space of the internal SSD drive. One (not exactly practical) option is to basically delete everything from my MBP before shooting the next event and that'll leave me with enough storage space to edit it on my laptop. The other option, and this is what I'm doing right now, is storing all the video footage on an external hard drive and editing straight off that hard drive. It's only a USB 3.0 connection so the connection speed is way too slow for real-time editing... which means that the editing process is quite frustrating. So, what's your suggestions to improve my workflow? Buying an external 500GB SSD drive might work but that'll be very expensive. Surely there must be an easier and cheaper option than that? Thanks a ton in advance, Moritz

Alright, as posted in another topic earlier today, I'm looking for a fast manual 50mm prime. I can pick up the Yashica 50mm f/1.7 very cheap. How does this lens compare to the Yashica 50mm f/1.4 when stopped down to the same aperture? Right now I have a Canon 50mm f/1.8 and a Rikenon 50mm f/1.7. Both are very prone to purple fringing when shot wide open and are fairly soft. The Canon relies on electronic communication so it's fairly pointless on my GH3 and there's no stops between f/1.7 and f/2.8 on my Rikenon. A fast, manual 50mm lens that has stops between f/1.8 and f/2.8, is sharp when stopped down slightly and fairly usable wide open and has a nice feel to it would be fantastic, so any suggestions are welcome!

Hey, I need suggestions which manual 50mm prime lens to pick up. I shoot with an APS-C Canon DSLR and a Panasonic GH3. Right now I have two 50mm lenses, one being the Canon 50mm f/1.8 and the other one being a Rikenon 50mm f/1.7. I also have the MFT Olympus 45mm f/1.8. Now I know that there's a ton of cheap, old 50mm primes but I don't know which one to pick up. The Canon is alright but isn't really useful when shot wide open because of purple fringing and general lack of sharpness. The Rikenon 50mm f/1.7 is a bit better wide open, so I'd just use this one BUT there's not stops between f/1.7 and f/2.8, which is really annoying. So I'm looking for a 50mm lens that is fairly useful wide open, has f-stops inbetween wide open and f/2.8, isn't too expensive and has a nice build quality. A local shop sells the Yashica 50mm f/1.7 for crazy cheap but I've heard mixed things about it. Is the Yashica 50mm f/1.4 better than the f/1.7 version? What about the Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4? How do these compare? And any other option that I should be looking into? Thanks a ton in advance, Moritz

Plastic fantastic? Do yourself a favour and check out the lenses of the new Sigma Art series. Their build quality is as good as it can get. I only got to check out the fantastic 18-35mm f/1.8 Sigma Art lens but the 35mm f/1.4 is very similar. The build quality is fantastic. Compared to the Canon 35mm f/1.4L, the Sigma is supposed to be better in almost any regard and it's cheaper, too. There are tons of reviews of the new Sigma 35mm f/1.4, you should check them out. Bottom line of almost any review is that the new Sigma 35mm f/1.4 is as good, if not better than the Canon at a better price point. If you can live without AF, you should definitely check out the Walimex / Samyang / Rokinon (different brands but they're all the same lenses) 35mm f/1.4. It is fully manual, focus ring feels great and it also has an aperture ring. It also comes in a cine version with built in gears for a follow focus. And it's less than half the price of the Canon. Covers full frame, too, and the build quality is very solid as well. Optically it's supposed to be on par with the Canon. Build quality of the Canon is a bit better, and of course the Walimex lacks autofocus or any electronic connection to your camera. But for around 350€ used, this is the 35mm lens you should get when you're on a budget.

Could it be that you're shooting in the 720p 60fps mode? If so, do yourself a favour and turn it off / switch to 1080p 24fps. The 720p mode on any Canon is rubbish and the results will look very "noisy". Apart from that your camera settings look fine and there shouldn't be any visible noise at ISO 200, so I'm suspecting that the 720p mode is your problem.

Thought this might be interesting... Apparantly Samyang / Walimex / Rokinon is just about to release three new lenses: - 10mm f/2.8 (this has been confirmed already and will start shipping soon) - 50mm f/1.4 - 35mm f/1.4 with AF Nothing official yet but there will be an announcement tomorrow according to their FB page.

Oh well... should have thought about this! Thanks guys! Another questions regarding the 96fps mode: As far as I know the GH4 will record Audio only up to 60fps but not when overcranking the framerate. What if I use an external microphone and plug it straight into the camera? Still no sound, right? I'm assuming that I need an external microphone + external recorder if I wanted to have sound that fits the footage. Is my assumption correct?

Just a quick questions about the available frame rates on the GH4 vs the GH3... I bought the GH3 in Europe (PAL) so it gives me the option to record in 24p, 25p or 50p. Since I shoot a lot of slow motion, I set up the project as a 25p project and record in 50p so that I can easily achieve a 2x Slow motion. The GH4 is able to record up to 96 frames per second. Will this be different in PAL regions? 96fps would be a 4x slow motion if it's a 24p project but a 3.86x slow motion if the project is set up in 25p. This won't work. So far all I've read is the GH4 is capable of recording up to 96fps but not 100fps in PAL regions. Let's say I want to record slow motion stuff with the GH4 as my A-cam and the GH3 as my B-Cam. I set the GH4 to 96fps - this transforms well to a 4x Slow Mo in a 24p project but doesn't work with a 25p project. At the same time I set up the GH3 to 50fps - this transforms well to a 2x Slow Mo in a 25p project but doesn't work with a 24p project. Is there any workaround for this issue? Cheers in advance! -Moritz

@jonpais: I recently made the switch from an APSC Canon DSLR to a MFT camera (GH3). The video results are much better than with my Canon but I'm not sure if I'm ready to invest a ton of money for MFT lenses yet. I can adapt my APSC lenses to the GH3 but not the other way around and as you mentioned, most MFT lenses are very small and plasticky. This is great if you're looking for a small and lightweight system but obviously has some drawbacks, too. I also feel like many people who shoot both stills and videos aren't quite convinced of MFT sensors yet... so that might be another reason why people are hesistant dropping a lot of cash on dedicated MFT lenses. If money was no object I'd go the same route as Olly P. I haven't decided yet whether I will make a full switch to MFT for both video and stills or not so for now I'll try to purchase prime lenses that I can use both on the GH3 and on my Canon DSLR. I've had some time to play around with the Samyang lenses and the build quality is fantastic, so to me that seems like to best option if you're looking for affordable, future-proof lenses that offer charcater, too. They're built like a tank as well so you should check them out. If you're looking for an example showcasing the differences between a digital-looking lens and a vintage lens with character, check out this comparison: - one lens is the MFT Olympus 12mm f/2.0 and the other one is the MFT SLR Magic 12mm f/1.6. Now both these lenses are native MFT lenses (you can't use them on any larger-sized sensor) but the SLR magic show some of the imperfections that vintage lenses also show. The Olympus delivers a better image (sharper, more detailed, no corner softness etc) but overall the SLR Magic looks better. This is desirable for videos but for stills I'd rather buy the Olympus and add the character digitally if neccessary.

This is a great topic and very informative! It would be great to have a Subforum on here dedicated to gear or lenses, otherwise all this information might get lost in a few months from now... Anyways, I'm also ready to invest in some primes, mainly because the lenses I've been using so far (that were designed for shooting stills) don't really work for shooting video and vice-versa. Do you guys think that there will be issues using these old manual primes on a 4K camera such as the GH4? What's the Aperture ring like on these Yashica and Canon FD lenses? I have some old manual lenses and the aperture ring goes straight from 1.8 to 2.8 so I can't use anything inbetween. Is this different with bigger manual lenses such as a Canon 50mm f/1.4 FD? What's the focus orientation on the Yashica lenses? Is focusing "reversed" or is it the same direction as Canon lenses? Is there a difference between the Walimex / Samyang / Rokinon Nikon-mount and Canon-mount lenses other than the mount itself? Does the focus ring rotate in the same direction? And can I adapt a Nikon-mount Walimex lens on a Canon APS-C camera without any issues? Right now I'm steering towards picking up a few Walimex lenses in the near future, mainly because I find it really hard to find any wide-angle lenses for MFT sensors. As much as I'd love to give these Yashicas a try, they simple aren't wide enough. Are there any good wide-angle manual lens solutions for MFT other than using whatever old manual lens with a Speedbooster? Thanks a ton in advance! -Moritz

Thanks man! I mainly shoot in fairly dark environments (forests) and I can't really plan or affect the lighting in my shots, so based on my experience I need to have a lens with an aperture of around 2.8 or faster to keep the ISO below 800 if the light is really bad. On the other hand it'd be nice to have a zoom lens and apparently the end results will look very similar. So I'll just keep my eyes open for a good deal to show up. Jason, as far as I know there's no manual focus ring on the 12-32mm Pancake. Otherwise I'd seriously consider it, but no option to focus manually is a no-go for me.

Thanks for the suggestions! Unfortunately I can't use the Tokina on my GH3 since the lens is a Canon-mount... so no point in using a Speedbooster. The new Kowas look great, too, but they won't be available any time soon and I think they will be fairly expensive. Andy, how does the 14mm f/2.4 compare to the 14-42 kit lens? Obviously it's a bit faster and doesn't offer optical stabilization or the zoom range. Is the build quality comparable? How easy is it to focus manually with them? What's the build quality like? And how does the 14-140mm compare to either one of these lenses? Thanks a ton!

What do you mean with "totally different"? In terms of sharpness, resolution etc the still image will look better than the video because the resolution is much higher, so there's a lot more fine detail, everything will look sharper etc. If you want your videos and still images to look the same, you should use the Manual mode for still images and apply the same settings to the video mode. The parameters that you adjust in video will be the same as in the stills mode. Make sure to match the Picture Style, White Balance, Shutter Speed, Aperture, Focal Length and ISO. For video you want to stick to a shutter speed of 1/60s, keep the ISO as low as possible and adjust the aperture accordingly. This will determine the brightness and the depth of field of your image. You can copy these values and apply them in the Manual stills mode. You should learn how Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO affect each other and then you shouldn't have any difficulties taking stills in the Manual mode and applying the same settings to the video mode.

Hey, I recently picked up a GH3 in addition to the Canon 600D (T3i) that I've been using for the past 2 years. I'm very happy with the results so far, seems like the GH3 in combination with my only MFT lens so far - the Panasonic 25mm f/1.4 - produces a much nicer quality than my Canon does. For now I'll keep the Canon as my backup / second camera as I usually shoot lots of events, so it's convenient to have two cameras shooting at the same time, plus I already have a big selection of Canon glass. I'll very likely purchase the Olympus 45mm f/1.8 and the Samyang 85mm f/1.4 lens soon, so that'll cover most focal lengths... but I also need a wide angle lens. For ultra wide angle stuff I already have a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 on my Canon and to achieve the same field of view I'd need an 8mm lens on the Panasonic. So for now I'm skipping the ultra wide angle stuff and would like to get a regular wide angle lens instead. What's a good affordable wide angle lens for the GH3? A 12mm lens (18mm S35 equivalent) would be nice but as far as I know my only options are the SLR Magic 12mm f/1.6, the Olympus 12mm f/2.0 and the Panasonic 12-35mm f/2.8... all of which are very expensive and I'm not sure I want to spend that much money on a lens like this yet. Somebody suggested to pick up the old Panasonic 14-45mm... does anyone have any experience with that lens? Another option that looks good is the Panasonic 14mm f/2.5 which can be had for very cheap. I wouldn't mind owning a zoom lens, so I even looked into the Olympus 12-50mm. What's your experiences with these 3 lenses? All cost around the same and all have some flaws (build quality, not very fast) but it'd be nice to hear some opinions of people who have actually used them for shooting video. Thanks for the input! -Moritz

This is a very interesting topic and I agree that it would be nice to see more discussions about this kind of stuff rather than (or in addition to!) the tech side of things on here. I recently made the switch from a Canon 600D to a Panasonic GH3. I really like the results so far but I haven't had any chance to play around with different camera settings, grading etc. I often shoot out in the nature as I'm focussing on Mountainbiking right now. So I often shoot in dark forests yet the sky is very bright, so dynamic range is a big issue and the sky is almost always blown out if I want to keep details on the ground/trail. So here's my workflow (FCPX) so far... any tips to improve the workflow would be greatly appreciated! - I try to avoid blown out skies and too contrasty scenes altogether and I tend to expose to the right - I also use a very flat picture style, although I don't dial sharpness down quite as much as I used to - after importing the files, I make minor exposure adjustments to sort of balance the footage - then I add the Teal and Orange-filter that is integrated in FCPX - the filter is usually too strong for my taste, so I dial down the intensity a bit - then I take another look at exposure, saturation and colour and make some more minor adjustments until I get a pleasing result - I usually tend to bring up the exposure in the highlights a bit (this boosts the brightness of the entire image) and also boost the saturation in the midtones a bit (so that the rider pops out a bit more) - last step is to add a little bit of sharpness (usually around +3 in FCPX) Recently I also tried to emulate the Teal and Orange-filter by pushing the shadows into cyan and highlights into yellow/orange. This resulted in a slightly nicer image because this doesn't crush the midtones as much as the built-in filter. Now my problem is that when adding the filter, the blacks and dark colours get crushed so there's not a lot of detail left in these areas (which in my case tend to be the trail and the trees). When I bring up the dark areas by adjusting the exposure, there's a ton of noise in these areas. Also, I'm not too happy with the sharpening tool of FCPX. Would it be better to dial up the sharpness in camera a tiny bit (from -5 to -2 for example) as long as the footage isn't moiré-plagued? I don't have experience with LUTs at all, never used them before. How does the workflow change when using LUTs? As far as I understand, the camera needs to have a specific profile to properly work with LUTs (cinegamma for example, which is only found in more expensive cameras) but having a flat picture profile in a cheaper camera (GH3, T3i etc) will work the same? Do I apply the LUT after doing the colour adjustments INSTEAD of using a colour correction filter such as Teal and Orange? Or do I apply the LUT IN ADDITION to the colour correction filter? Looking forward to hearing your feedback... thanks a ton in advance! -Moritz

So we're 3 (three!) weeks into 2014 and you're telling me that the best cameras of 2013 have become obsolete now? F*ck... I just bought a Panasonic GH3. The camera was released in 2012. Does this mean that my GH3 is considered as a vintage camera now? If this is supposed to be a serious question, then please go ahead, spend all your money on the latest and greatest 4K camera, spend a ton of money on additional equipment and tell all your clients to upgrade their current screens to big-ass 4K screens. Oh, and please share the videos with us! 4K will be an improvement over the current stuff in some regards but it'll introduce new problems or amplify existing problems such as data storage, file sizes, editing hardware etc. If you feel like the stuff you're currently shooting with your 5D MkIII, BMPCC, GH2/GH3 or even your Canon 550D looks like crap and you're being held back by your equipment, then go out there and shoot a bit more and learn how your camera works. Lots of amazing stuff has been shot with cameras you're calling obsolete, and the stuff is amazing not because of the cameras that were used but because the people who used these cameras knew how to use them properly.

Andy, I think he was referring to the focus assist instead of proper AF / AF tracking. I'm interested in this, too: Does the 3x magnification work with fully manual lenses as well? I think it should but can't test it myself, so it'd be great if you could let us know. Thanks!

I just picked up the Panasonic 25mm f/1.4 and got to play around with it for a little while yesterday. The build quality is alright considering that it's a lightweight and, compared to full frame or cine lenses, very small. The focus ring feels smooth and has a very long focus throw, plus the digital zoom when manually focussing can be quite useful. I mainly bought this lens to test the stills quality of the GH3, so I wanted to have a lens that features AF (and it's extremely quick!). If it's for video only, I guess I'd get something different with a bit more weight and grip to it.

Yes, you can buy the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 with a MFT mount. Keep in mind though that the GH3 has a different crop factor than the APS-C sensors that this lens is designed for. With the GH3 (or any MFT camera) you'll have to multiply the focal length x2, so that'll turn the Sigma into a 36-70mm lens in terms of full frame... whereas on the D5300 (or any APS-C camera) you'll have to multiply the focal length x 1.6, so the Sigma turns into a 29-56mm lens in terms of full frame. This is a much more usable range because it covers everything from moderately wide (29mm full frame) to mild tele (56mm tele). Therefore it might make sense to get a GH3 + a Nikon-mount Sigma 18-35mm + the Metabones Speed Booster. This will add another $400 but you'll get much more usable (focal length) and spectacular (improved aperture) results with this! This is only valid for shooting video though; if you're planning on taking stills as well, you might want to get a lens with proper AF on your GH3. You should also look into the Panasonic G6. In terms of video it's virtually identical to the GH3 (check out the review on this site) but it's quite a bit cheaper, in fact you can get the G6 + Speed Booster for the same price as the GH3. Do you plan on only shooting video or do you intend to take pictures as well?

I'd love to know this, too. I'm in the same boat as you are... I just picked up a GH3, already have a 600D with a lot of Canon glass and would rather get the Canon 18-35mm than the Nikon 18-35mm but this will only make sense when Metabones finally releases the Speedbooster for Canon. Early 2013 they said it'll be out in August 2013, then it was supposed to be out by the end of the year and now it's 2014 with no signs of it to be released. Nothing on their Facebook page, although many people have asked them about it, either...

In my opinion and experience you can't really go wrong with any of the options you listed, but it also depends on whether you're only shooting video or not. The Canons do have a lot of flaws that can be very annoying (such as Moire, Aliasing, mushy and not very detailed image, lack of proper 60p mode) but you can create some fantastic results with it if you find ways to avoid these issues. The AF system of the 70D is supposed to be very nice and the lens selection is fantastic, at least when it comes to Canon glass. On paper the D5300 sounds like a fantastic camera for someone who's shooting stills and video and the dynamic range looks awesome, much better than the DR of most Canons. It has some weird things going on in terms of overall handling and control, but since you're learning everything from scratch it doesn't matter really as it's just a matter of getting used to the camera. I'm sort of in the same situation as you are, have been shooting with a Canon 600D for the past two years and now I've finally pulled the trigger on a Panasonic GH3. I'm also thinking about selling all my Canon stuff and buying an additional D5300 for stills + low light video. I'm thinking a GH3 + Metabones Speed Booster + Nikon lenses + a D5300 would be a killer combination for shooting video and stills. Another option you should definitely look into is the Panasonic G6. The video mode is supposed to be fantastic and the camera can be had for very little money. But definitely make sure to go to a camera store and pick up each model. They will feel very differently and it'll come down to your personal preferences. Also keep in mind that lenses are way more important than the body you're shooting with. Considering the speed that new cameras with better features have been put out, you'll most likely keep the lenses much longer than you'll keep the body. Either way, you can't really go wrong with any of the options you listed above. But if I were you I'd invest into the MFT / Nikon system as opposed to Canon IF you like the way Panasonics and Nikons handle.

Thanks Chrad! The 20mm f/1.7 sounds like a good option to start with, although I'm somewhat concerned about the size of the lens. Is the lens really as tiny as it looks? Are you actually able to properly use the focus ring? Either way it might be a good option to have a Pancake lens to have a very portable option. The 14mm is another option that I looked into, there's good deals to be had in combination with a GF3, sometimes even cheaper than the lens itself. I might pick one up, too. Any manual options that are cheap and easily accessible? Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 sounds like a great option, so I'm looking for something comparable in terms of price and quality but with a shorter focal length. I actually just ordered the GH3 with some spare batteries and I'm looking forward to comparing it to my Canon stuff... now all I need is some lenses, so any help is appreciated! Thanks!

Hey, I'm about to pull the trigger and finally order a Panasonic GH3. I've already read the GH3 Shooter's Guide (Thanks Andrew!) and somewhat know what to expect, but I'm still not 100% convinced to make the switch from Canon to the MFT system. What's still holding me back is that I would like to hold on to my Canon lenses for photography. I shoot lots of action stuff and I doubt that the MFT system will be an improvement over my Canon stuff for that, so I'd like to hold on to my Canon equipment for now. Ideally I'd love to order a GH3 + the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 and use an EF to MFT-Speedbooster but it doesn't exist yet so I'm still a bit on the fence. Anyways, I'd like to order a GH3 and play around with if for a bit. Now I don't want to invest a ton of money yet, so I'm looking for some lens suggestions. Is there a good and affordable MFT lens that I should pick up in addition to the GH3? I'm looking for a moderately wide to standard focal length, so I guess anything between 15mm and 30mm should work? Any other cheap lenses I should get to play around with the GH3? I'll pick up a Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 or the Panasonic 45mm f/1.8 but they will be too long for normal stuff... For what it's worth, the 14-140mm kit lens is an additional 400€ and the 12-35mm f/2.8 lens is an additional 850€... so I won't get any of the kit options. Also, how long does a battery last when shooting video? Can I access the battery compartment when the camera is attached to a video tripod? Thanks a ton in advance! -Moritz

I've been using the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 on my Canon 600D for a while now and so far it's been a great lens. Build quality is very good, it is very sharp stopped down and usable wide open and the aperture is very useful when shooting in low light conditions. I'm not sure if you actually need the zoom range of the 10-20mm or even the 11-16mm. I don't think I've touched the zoom ring yet because I don't really see the point of zooming in with a ultra wide angle lens. If the 10-20mm is fast enough for the stuff you do, then I'd say get that one over the Tokina because 10mm vs 11mm actually does make quite a bit of difference. Another option to consider is the recently announced Samyang 10mm f/2.8... not sure when exactly it'll be out but it should be a bit cheaper than the Tokina and another decent and wide option.

Hey, first of all hello to everyone, I've been a long-time lurker but this is my first post. My first post also happens to be a very long one, so apologies in advance! I've been shooting photos and videos with a Canon 600D for the past two years. Until then I didn't have any experience with proper cameras and treated photography / videography as a hobby at first but this year I've gotten a bit more serious about it. I mainly shoot sports events (Downhill Mountainbiking) so to me it's important to have a camera that creates good pictures in fairly low light situations and has a look that stands out from your typical GoPro Action video, thus I've been very happy with a APS-C DSLR. Now that I've gotten a bit more serious about it, I'd like to get a second camera and turn the 600D into my backup camera. I'm also starting to see the limitations of the 600D. Wide-angle shots look like crap, there's not a ton of detail especially in these wide-angle shots, sharpness leaves a lot to be desired and I'm having some issues with moiré and aliasing, although it only affects wide-angle shots. Most importantly though, the dynamic range is a major issue. I try to shoot with as little contrast, saturation etc. as possible but still if I want to remain a high level of detail on the ground / in the shadows, the sky is usually blown out making quite a few of my shots useless. Of course there's ways to avoid this but it'd be nice to have a camera with a more usable range. I've invested quite a bit of money into my Canon system... most of my shooting is done with a Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, a Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 OS, a Canon 50mm f/1.8 and a Canon 85mm f/1.8. The 50mm is a bit too long in my opinion, the 85mm is a beautiful lens for tele shots, the Sigma produces a ton of moiré and the image looks like crap and the Tokina is very nice actually, also very usable on a Glidecam but it's a very specific lens. I usually shoot between f/1.8 and f/4, not neccessarily to achieve a shallower DOF but to keep the ISO fairly low and also to keep the shutter speed as fast as possible (around 1/200th of a second if possible). I would love to pick up an APS-C Canon with a proper 60p mode or even a 240fps mode, a dynamic range close to the BMPC, a moiré and alias-free image, tons of detail comparable to a GH3 and a proper AF system and burst mode for shooting pictures. But I'm afraid this camera doesn't exist! In an ideal world I'd pick up a 5D MKIII and a Sony FS-700 but that's unrealistic. So my options are... Canon 70D, because it offers quite a few neat features, I could use all my existing lenses, picture would be comparable to the 600D, I very much like the ergonomics of the 60D and it would be a fantastic photo camera BUT same 8bit image, not very detailed image, no 60p mode or high speed mode and awful dynamic range BMPC because of the dynamic range and the beautiful, detail image it produces BUT lots of issues, super short battery time, awful sound, huge files, I need new lenses or a Metabones Speedbooster for Canon EF-S (which doesn't exist) etc. Panasonic GH3 because it has a better dynamic range, it's weather sealed, proper 60p-mode, a lot of detail in the shots, XLR and HDMI out etc. BUT weird ergonomics (which I may very well get used to), need new lenses, lenses for the GH3 aren't compatible with the lenses for the 600D (I want to keep it as a backup camera), not that great of a photo camera I spent quite a bit of time checking out the GH3 as well as the G6 and I guess it would take me a while to get used to the entire MFT thing. I don't need a camera that is small and stealthy and I found the Panasonic lenses to feel very cheap, tiny and plasticky which I didn't like at all. I didn't like the size and the ergonomics of the G6, to me it seemed very cluttered as if they were trying to pack as many features into the smallest package possible (which Panasonic certainly succeeded with!). So if I'm going the Panasonic route I think I'll go with the GH3. What's your take on this? Is there another combination that I haven't thought about yet? In another forum I was basically told to sell all my stuff and get a proper camcorder such as the Canon G30 but I don't see myself going that route unless we're talking about a C100 or a FS700. Also, is there any way to adopt my existing lenses to the GH3? Or is there a buyers guide / good topic on here with some proper lens suggestions for the MFT system? Any input is apprecited, so thanks a ton in advance for your help! -Moritz