Cinegain

So... I'm in The Netherlands visiting my parents... they've got a new Samsung UHD HDR tv. The screen was absolutely awful to look at. Factory settings of course. Full brightness. Full contrast. Samsung colors... way too vivid, Chernobyl Barbie skintones, things blown out and crushed down... So, I went into the settings, changed it from Dynamic or whatevs to HDR, just curious what it would do, went to expert settings, changed things around so that it would actually look good, natural and not as eye straining as it had been before. My dad: 'ah, ok, sure, I guess... whatever'. Mom comes in after work 'what the hell happened to the tv?', I'm expecting her to be struck by the newfound beauty and quality of the screen... 'it's like I'm looking through a frosted milkbottle, it's horrible'. Wow... they're completely ruined by watching crap (bright, vivid, blown, crushed) all the time (same people that don't dim their phones at night). Not only don't they know any better, they do not even want any better. I'm baffled and ashamed to be quite honest.

Yeah, wasn't so sure about the effect of that, but I figured I could work out something if the light would get too uneven. Like, instead of mounting it from the rod, I'd clip said rod and mount a stand to the rear of the umbrella perhaps. Do really need quite a bit of space for a proper studio.

They show on their site how one would set-up something with umbrellas like that. Think that would work just fine, but as well as Aaron said and I already mentioned, those Aputure LightDomes are using a rather similar approach to throw light. But it does end up on a diffusor layer, so you might not get the same kind of catchlights in the eye.

Would actually go with the Aputure C120-series (there's a 't-model that is tungsten and a 'd'-model that is daylight balanced). It has a Bowen-S mount, so you can use all kinds of add-ons, softboxes, beauty dishes, parabolic reflectors/umbrellas, with grids, snoots. Their own Lightdome looks pretty sweet: http://aputure.com/en/light-dome.html . Would be nice to have 4 or so. You could do with 1 less and then get two of the C20 mini fresnels in time (still due to come out). Of course I know about Broncolor, Elinchrom and Profoto, but they're more photographer's tools... little to nothing with LEDs... and expensive ones at that. Not sure if they're in budget and at all good for video. But with the Aputures you know... what more do you really need? Thinking about a studio set-up like that for next year myself. This is actually quite a nice video on the effects of different light set-up styles:

Barbaric! Who eats pizza without toppings?!

Like this? http://aputure.com/en/AL-M9.html

What kind of pizza would you suggest, though? Guess you would avoid green peppers and yellow pineapple in favor of some lovely blue cheese, proscuitto crudo and tomatoes? (Because you know, talk about food makes me hungry )

Sounds like you could've been Parker Walbeck. Devin Graham's trusty shooter. Man, I'm waiting on the Instamics to ship out! https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/instamic-the-smartest-microphone-ready-to-record-video-music#/

Follow the link. It will tell you. 4th of january. Gotta love the schtuff they're doing!

No, not really... And concerning that highlighted part... I think to answer the question he had, I was looking into those unconventional ways. Think upping the shutterspeed can be more gradual than dropping the ISO. Dunno, that's a choice someone might make. I wouldn't do necessarily opt to do it, but it's the most logical answer I could think of. Or maybe you're making a drug trippy scene and like to create depth of field jumps and weird motion changes. Then sure, why not.

From what I've heard 10-bit isn't confirmed or denied anywhere. This is the most detailed info from them I could find: http://asia.olympus-imaging.com/product/dslr/em1mk2/feature4.html , I would assume Newsshooter's right.

There's no rules. And that would be even more visible.

Eh... people (without vND) who follow someone from indoor to outdoor?

I tend to use the manual mode for most stuff. Usually things are set to 4K 24p with 180 shutter closest 1/50th. I then first determine the depth of field I want to use and set the aperture accordingly. Whatever the exposure shows... I need to set my ISO accordingly. When ISO reaches ISO1250 and is still underexposing, I need to re-think my strategy. Maybe I can add light to the scene. Maybe I can trade-off depth of field for a better sensitivity. In turn, if it is overexposing, throw a ND filter in front. If I would have none on me, again trade-off one thing for the other, I'd more be willing to sacrifice the shutterspeed than I would depth of field by pinching the aperture. But I prefer to decide whatever goes for myself. That's one reason why I don't mind full manual lenses like the SLR Magic HyperPrime CINE 25mm T0.95. Having that physical aperture control ring and manual focus. It doesn't bother me at all. Though, given, it's not for the extreme run'n'gunner. It's like fastfood... very convenient... but I'd enjoy live cooking slowfood more. But different folks, different strokes. There's no absolute right or wrong... though I guess you could say that there is 'conventional' versus 'unconventional'. Just gotta find something that works for you.

What I like to do to analyze what a shot needs... I go into Photoshop and then add a layer of color balance. I ended up liking MT CR+6/MG-9/YB-9, SD CR+2/MG+1/YB0, HL CR+13/MG-7/YB+18 and then a layer to reduce the vibrance by about 20%, some exposure tweaks... and you'd go from: to So... looks like it could use a little cooler setting? Yet with boosted reds and taken out greens. So concerning that 'trial & error', give that a go!

Obviously their C120d. Wescott Flex. Those are the two lights I'm currently interested in that is.

It has PASM control and I was able to select the values. However, the real question is, can you change it in a pinch whilst shooting video. That I'm not sure, but I would imagine so... Almost picked up the phone and told 'em 'ok, I'll give in, sign me up for one already', but I didn't. I know, I'm shocked myself. That's a first... me saying no an impulse purchase.

http://asia.olympus-imaging.com/product/dslr/em1mk2/feature4.html Well there's that. But I think it means it just puts the 60p in a 30p timeline. Would do the same for timelapse... putting it in a immediately watchable sequence.

From what I've seen the simpletons all seem shit, terrible corners, reduced sharpness/contrast, flaring, ghosting, etc, so keep expectations low. There's some with Schott glass, atleast get that if you must. Something like this doesn't look too gimmicky plastic fantastic, includes a 3x tele: If you just want the tele, another decent brand seems Apexel, they have a 60mm (2x) that you could attach to an iPhone case. Aukey perhaps. Of course, if you're up for something more interesting (or just expensive), Olloclip has been highly popular since forever and then there's tons of projects like Moment , Z-Prime, ALM, and Exolens to name a few. Some even go as crazy as creating an anamorphic adapter. Of course, while you're at it, you could even adapt system camera lenses like with the Beastgrip. But when you're looking at stuff like that... I'd say it might make more sense to e.g. just get and use a GX85 already.

Except the Canon would be a little more like this...

Nah, exact same vid. Even the comments from yesterday are still there. With YouTube you would publish a new one and take the old one down.

Where did he say it was succesfully uploaded again? To my knowledge, you can't change-out a video on YouTube like you might on Vimeo (didn't even know that was a thing, until Ed started doing it).

Because that's still the same video... dúh. -- unrelated sidenote, why splitting the same discussion up in mutliple threads? Why not keep the comments going over in:

Which part? lol Well, parfocal means that the spot that you focused on remains in focus as you zoom in/out. Usually with most lenses, when you zoom the shot becomes out of focus and you have to re-adjust focus. So you could say, in that case it wouldn't be spot on anymore. So, whereas you're worried about the movement of the zoom creating unwanted shake to cause unfluid motion... with the lenses you mentioned, it would be about zooming and keeping the focus intact, so you'd need to turn two rings at the same time, which probably is more trouble and less fluid. So his suggestions are 'spot on', which, in the context, is a funny use of words. Of course, there's no fun in explaining a joke... although, it honestly wasn't intended as a joke ('pun') until I realized it kinda was one. Anyways. If you lock the camera to a tripod and don't set your tripod head to be very sensitive to input, you should be fine concerning camera shake and not need a lens with built-in IS. In which case, you could also opt for the Angenieux design Tokina 28-70mm f/2.6-2.8 which should fit your budget.

Well, if you want to 'to zoom while shooting .. without making some trouble'... then that is spot on. :P No pun intended.