RamblinR

Hey Andy Lee, if you were looking at getting a collection of manual lenses and only wanted to purchase one speed booster (so only one brand of lens) which would you go for and what would be your favs.

Received my Linco Flora lighting in time for my shoot. They were excellent. I own a light meter for studio work which I also used to adjust the cameras for the video shoot. Shot at f5.6, iso400. They are quick to set up due to the umbrella styled soft box, screwing in the globes is the time consuming part. They take between 10-15 minutes to cool down enough to pack up which isn't too bad, you just start packing up everything else first.

Jazzbox ... I find watts confusing also in regard to brightness for camera work. If you click on the link in my post above yours you can get an idea of brightness of these 85 watt CFL globes (go to the table about half way down) Note the 85 watts for a CFL globe is different to a normal globe so you need to take that into account for whatever you are looking at. Maybe this can be of some help. He is using six globes in a soft box.

Another review of the Linco Flora lights. There is a 'Flora Light Distance Chart' about half way through the review that shows ISO, F/stop etc http://www.lightingrumours.com/flora-light-best-continuous-fluorescent-lighting-system-926#.VF1tAUvL5Fw Miraud - I expect a white balance before shooting would fix white balance problems? I don't think I want to work with hot lights. I think these could also be useful for stills photography with m43 gear (good DOF)

OK more searching has brought up these CFL lights that seem to be very bright Product http://www.fotogenic.com.au/linco-4080w-flora-6-continuous-octagon-x-2.html Review that indicates that with just 3 globes he was getting f3.5 ISO320

Thanks Andy. Anybody else got thoughts on either lighting and how bright the cfl lighting would be? Thanks all

Doing a talking head in a couple of weeks and I don't own any lighting. Hoping I won't need any but as I'm unsure of the lighting at one place (which is a distance away) I think it best I have some lights in case they are needed. I have been doing some homework. Looking at the Yongnou YN-160, YN300 and YN600 for battery operated or looking at the following (see link) but I have no idea how bright they are as it talks only in watts and I want f/stops, shutter speed and iSO. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301379488501?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Does anyone have any idea of how bright these will be? Are they any good? Would the Yongnou be brighter/better? Something else (not too expensive please) Couldn't seem to find posts on lighting so if there is one point the direction. As I'm shooting m43 I'm thinking I could work with f4, 1/50 and would like to keep the ISO reasonable. Andy had suggested Red Heads but I would rather not have hot lights. Thanks for helping.

Thanks Andy

Andy you love and use the G6. What are your recommended settings for video and other tweaks for the camera? Others please chip in also with tweaks etc. I have just picked one up to try for video. Thanks

Hey Andy Are MC Rokkor lenses generally good lenses or meh for sharpness wide open. Thanks

The discussion on the link indicates that olympus will have another update for the EM1 next year. Video?? Lets hope so. https://www.flickr.com/groups/getolympus/discuss/72157644800709078/

Andy, I may have the opportunity to pick up some Nikkor manual lenses. Haven't seen them yet so don't know exact names of them Looking at these for m43 video Nikkor 24mm f2.8 Nikkor 35mm f1.2 Nikkor 50mm f1.4 Is there a speed booster that can be used with these manual Nikkor lenses? Also, if these are in good condition, how much would they be worth? Glad to have someone so knowledgeable to ask questions about older lenses.

Thanks for the reply. How does everyone check to ensure no fungus is in the lens?

When purchasing older lenses how does everyone check for fungus? I know that just looking directly through the lens does not show fungus, need to light from the side to see it. Any other tips? Would anyone purchase a lens with a minute amount of fungus or definitely don't touch? Will fungus transfer to the camera sensor from a lens? Thanks