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I am not so sure that's the situation with my similar difficulty. Apple's HFS+ file system does some crazy things and is notoriously delicate. Don't throw away the drive. A Parted Magic torrent is free, and it takes about 15 minutes to download it, install it on a thumb drive and boot it on your Mac. If it sees your T5 drive, you're set.

I had a similar problem on a recent shoot with a Pocket 4K. The T5 drive was first accessed by the DIT's mac laptop, which put on the T5 drive all of the Apple FS hidden files. I was able to mount the drive on my Linux-booting Chromebook several times, but, unfortunately, I accidentally unplugged the drive without first unmounting it. In doing so, I apparently borked one of the hidden Apple FS files, because when I subsequently tried to mount it, I kept getting an error message that one of those Apple FS files was corrupted. When we connected the T5 drive to the first Mac laptop that accessed it, it had no problem mounting. Of course, you can reformat the drive on your Ipad after you have backed up all the files, correct? If not, I would suggest downloading the open source Parted Magic live OS. There are plenty of rescue/drive-accessing live OS's out there, but Parted Magic sometimes works when others don't. Parted Magic should be able to access your drive and format it. It costs $11 to directly download the compiled version, but there are usually several torrents available for free. Or, since it is open source, you could compile it yourself. ☺️

No problem. Here is the colorized version. However, I have a feeling black & white footage is not the real reason that they would dismiss the Buster Keaton classic. It probably has more to do with how actively and deeply they want to work their minds. "Never make the mistake of assuming the audience is any less intelligent than you are.” -- Rod Serling It appears that filmmakers are not as intelligent as they were back in Serling's day.

If you have an X86 based computer (Mac or PC), you can also just boot a free Linux live OS and use that to make ext4 partitions on a separate USB thumb drive. With the live OS still running, you can then copy the DCP file from your hard drive onto the new ext4 partition on the USB thumb drive. Here is Gparted Live, a Linux live distro configured expressly to run the Gparted partition editor

Yep. Below is a 98-year-old film story told with a lot less than what we have today . They didn't even have sound, and it is still entertaining!: Sorry to the pixel peepers for the YouTube compression! /s

US$1,200 for a 1200 watt HMI is a huge bargain (provided that it works safely and reliably). The desire to go with hardware store fixtures is understandable, but it is best to avoid them. The controllability and flexibility of many movie lights is primarily what makes them useful on film sets. Often, the light controls on the fixture are more important than the core of the fixture. So, you are getting much less than 40% of the capability with the hardware store fixtures. Instead, look for used film lighting fixtures.

If the camera (or subject) moves and if the foreground objects and background are not arranged in an orderly fashion, it can be very difficult to impossible to replicate the tilt-swing effect in post. Exactly.

Thanks for the reminder about tilt-swing/tilt-shift adapters. Nice video! The "miniature" gag is what most associate with these adapters, but I prefer the look when tilt-swing is used subtly for effect and to direct viewers' attention. A big problem that prevents the use of such adapters is that camera manufacturers unnecessarily commit their cameras to EF and PL mounts, instead of utilizing shallower mounts. Trying to duplicate the tilt-swing effect in post only works when the camera is locked down and when the objects in the frame are grouped in an orderly fashion from front-to-back.

Changing to another type of shoe in the middle of the day has helped me and others keep our feet refreshed and not aching. Try it, and see if it works for you.

Change shoes between the first half and second half of the day.

It sounds like the job is done -- no J-B Weld needed!

Don't use an epoxy that doesn't bond with the case material (polypropylene). PC-7 adheres to a lot of materials, but not polypropylene. J-B Weld epoxy is good, but it is more like a liquid than a hard putty. I don't know much about J-B Welder Plastic Bonder, but I read that it work on polypropylene. If it is not as strong as (or more brittle than) PC-7, J-B Weld or plumbers epoxy, perhaps the J-B Weld Bonder could be used just to coat the areas on the Pelican case that you wish to adhere the stronger epoxy. Sand the J-B Weld Bonder after it has cured to create rough texture for the stronger epoxy.

I've used lightweight, aluminum baby stands with tilting mechanisms mounted on top. Some such light stands with tubular legs are fairly sturdy and have a wide base (which is adjustable). The tilting mechanism that I used mounted to the baby pin on the top the stand, just like one mounts a light fixture onto a light stand. This configuration made it a breeze to swap the tilting head (with the camera mounted) between the baby pin on the light stand and the baby pin on my DIY camera stabilizer.

No need to overthink this patching job. Get some PC-7 or plumber's epoxy and try it on a hole. If it needs reinforcing, drill it out and try it again with reinforcement. Plumber's epoxy is more of a hard putty, so it will hold it's shape when curing (which only takes around 5 minutes).

I would try PC-7 epoxy, or J-B Weld or plumber's epoxy. PC-7 is probably the strongest, but plumber's epoxy is readily available at most hardware stores.

Okay. Great! Thanks. Does the Pocket 4K have an IR pollution issue like earlier Blackmagic cameras?

I see. Well, Google really likes to know what everyone is doing and where they are doing it. So, if the camera has been bonded and then I turn it off and shoot again five days later, it is not necessary to enable "Locations?" Okay. That limitation prevents use of the Pocket 4K for many night time lapses. We'll probably rent a GH5 for the time lapse shots. Thanks!

Is this the app? It looks good, however, I see a possible deal-breaker -- what is the reason for forcing users to have "locations" enabled?

There is a special time lapse program that still photographers use in conjunction with Lightroom. I know more folks that have Resolve than that special time lapse program, so I will look into using Resolve. Thanks. I have been watching day-to-night time lapse tutorial videos. Sometimes they ramp the exposure manually, sometimes they use aperture preferred mode (especially on the A7RIII) and occasionally change and aperture, and sometimes they use a special controller. There are comparisons of all three and I'm not seeing better results from the auto modes nor from the special controller. So, I am probably going to ramp exposure manually. The only problem with using the Pocket 4K is: how do you get a 5-second exposure out of a camera with shutter speeds delineated in shutter "degrees?"

That's great to know! Thank you! I wonder how the shutter angle is handled -- relative to the playback frame rate? That could be a problem a one sometimes needs to make multi-second exposures when shooting time lapse. Ha, ha! Whoever it is, that person must be very smart and resourceful! I am interested in all of those features. Where can I learn more about the app? Thanks! Thank you! It is good to know that it can be done in Resolve without having to obtain a special program.

I am shooting for the first time with the Pocket 4K. I need to shoot a time lapse sequence as background plate, from daytime through sunset to night time. I have to separately shoot a subject for the foreground on a green stage. I would like to use the Pocket 4K for the time lapse, instead of renting a separate still camera. Has anyone used the time lapse function on the Pocket 4K? Can you ramp exposure (change shutter angle/speed, aperture and ISO) during the time lapse? If so, what are the shutter angle/speed increments (1/3rd of a stop?)? If the exposure can't be adjusted on camera during a time lapse, can it be done with a wifi/bluetooth app? If so, what are the best Pocket 4K apps? Any help would be much appreciated!

I don't think that the tester moved the camera -- the tester was using a single zoom lens and he simply zoomed to change the focal length and then cropped into the image to change the sensor "size." On the other hand, in doing so, the entrance pupil of the lens might have moved forwards/backwards. The problem with such a test (other than the fact that the tester is using the exact same zoom lens for a comparison) is that he didn't test separate optics made for different size formats. That won't work -- it's an almost identical scheme to the above mentioned test in which the tester used a single lens zoomed to different focal lengths. To do the test properly, you have to use two different lenses -- one designed for a smaller format and one designed for a larger format. I would also suggest the the two lenses that you choose to test should be made for two formats of extremely disparate sizes. Comparing a M4/3 lens to an APS-C lens might show a difference that is too subtle for most to perceive, and likewise when comparing lenses made for APS-C and full frame. To make the difference obvious to most people, it would best to compare, say, a lens made for 16mm film to one made for 4"x5" film. By the way, I made those animated gifs, because I could see the subtle yet important differences between the two images that evidently escaped most viewers when the photos were presented one above the other. Even after gifs were posted, some folks could not see the slight, telling differences in focus and DOF, to my dismay. So, you have to hit people over the head to demonstrate a difference. Here is a photo taken with a camera that has a 14"x17" film plane. Aside from the peculiar contrast (it's a tintype), do you think that this look (especially from the focus/DOF) can be duplicated on a Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera? If you could achieve an identical extremely shallow depth of field with a lens made for M4/3, that girl's shoulders would be a completely blurry mush. I love M4/3, but there are general differences in the look of different formats that do not involve "imperfections." By the way, at what point was it declared that lenses for larger formats have more "imperfections" than those made for smaller formats? Please not that the "equivalence principle" and the depth of field formula are correct in finding the two mathematical limits (front and back) of depth of field. However, neither of these notions account for how the focus rolls off outside of these front and back limits, nor do the equivalence principle and DOF formula describe any variances might occur within their two mathematical limits. There are variables that affect focus that generally increase/decrease depending on the format size for which the optics are designed. For instance, it is easier to put more lines of optical resolution into larger formats. The smaller the format, the more difficult it is to squeeze in the same number of optical resolution lines. When a lens gets near the practical limits cramming lines of resolution into a smaller area, it must certainly affect the look of the focus, which influences how the DOF looks/rolls-off.

A halogen bulb is one of the two primary types of tungsten light sources. This type of lamp uses a thick, quartz glass "envelope" with a tungsten filament and halogen gas inside, hence the terms "quartz," "halogen" and "quartz halogen" -- all of these terms refer to the same type of bulb. The other type of tungsten lamp is "incandescent," which is the same technology as traditional household bulbs. Incandescent lamps have a thin, large glass envelope enclosing a tungsten filament and such bulbs are often filled with argon gas. Quartz halogen bulbs are significantly smaller and longer lasting and their color remains consistent throughout their life. Incandescent bulbs are more delicate and discolor as they age. Never touch the quartz glass of a halogen bulb with your fingers/skin. If you do, immediately clean the quartz thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol and a clean paper towel or plain cotton pad. Otherwise, the oil from your skin will impregnate the quartz and weaken it when it heats up, which can cause the bulb to explode. A 1/2 CTB gel cuts about 1/2 stop of output. On the other hand, if you are mixing ballasted daylight fixtures (such as HMIs), it 's just as easy to put CTO gel over those fixtures.

On the contrary, tungsten lights are usually smaller and lighter than their LED counterparts with equivalent output. Plus, tungsten lights have no fans. The Lowel Omni is compact and light-weight with a high power density and a nicely focus-able beam, but a redhead would work, too -- it's just a little bigger and has a more limited focusing range.

The DP light is a great fixture! I used two of them in a shoot just last week. With the FEL (1kw) bulb, you have a lot of punch that you won't find in most LED fixtures. Easy enough to use 1/2 CTB gels, so that the tungsten color mixes well with daylight. Keep in mind that the dimmer has to be rated for at least 1kw, if one uses the FEL (1000w) bulb or the EHF (750w) bulb. Completely disagree with you here. Omnis are GREAT lights! The reason why folks have had problems with the bulbs is that most of the bulb manufacturers initially did not include a central filament support, so the filament would break easily with shock, plus the focus mechanism on the Omni is exceedingly fast. When the FTK (500w) bulbs started to appear with filament supports, most of the bulb problems disappeared. However, one still should be careful not focus too quickly with an Omni light. The Omnis have a greater focusing range than the DP lights, and two Omnis easily fit into the space of one DP light. At 500w, the Omnis also pack a lot of punch for being so compact. I would definitely recommend Omni lights, and I always carry at least one in my lighting kit. By the way, I heard that QC dropped a little when Tiffen bought Lowel, so it might be wise to search for the pre-Tiffen fixtures. Yes, but don't lick them. Seriously, many of these "corn" bulbs have exposed contacts next to the LEDs, and you can get a little zap if you touch the contacts.