hyalinejim

Yes, I had been looking at that first and was about to get one but then I stumbled on a mention of the Tokina and it seemed to me after a bit of research that it holds sharpness a bit better towards the corners and also there is very little vignetting other than the limits of the image circle.

Did you get a speedbooster for your GH5? Without one there isn't much point as the Leica 12-60 will do the job much better.

I'm a sucker for cheap wide angle and have found a nice contender for APSC and speedboosted M43. The Tokina 12-24 f4 is a well regarded wide angle lens for APSC Nikon and Canon DSLRs, but you can totally get away with using it on larger formats to a certain extent. It has good build quality, very little vignetting, is fairly sharp out to the edges and has very little distortion in the middle of the range. They go for very little now and I picked up a copy for €150 including postage on eBay. Here it is on a GH6 with 0.64x Speedbooster wide open at f2.5 12mm (15mm full frame equivalent, 7.5mm M43 equivalent). Vignetting is evident. This is a lens for APSC formats, after all. 15mm (19mm FF / 9.5mm M43 equivalent). Vignetting is mostly gone. Could maybe go a little wider stopped down a bit. 18mm (23mm FF /11.5mm M43 equivalent). This is the minimum you can use it on full frame, where corners are quite soft at 18mm but speedboosted on M43 the corners look decent. Any distortion levels out around here and is quite good as we zoom in further. 20 (25.5mm FF /13mm M43 equivalent) 24 (31mm FF /15mm M43 equivalent). Purple/green fringing is quite bad at 24mm, probably the biggest problem with the lens. It cleared up for me using Digital Film Tools Chromatic Aberration effect. All in all, I'm quite pleased with it and would definitely recommend it as a cheap wide angle option for Speedboosted M43. On full frame it suffers a lot with corner softness, but is still good for square format photos if Insta is your thing!

AKA yoclay, a gentleman and a former mod on the old C5D forum!

I haven't tested any of these things but from what I've read online there's very little to worry about. I think I remember reading that you can set the fan on low if you're worried about fan noise with an onboard mic. It's too mild in Ireland to test these things. We're supposed to be experiencing Europe's heatwave at the moment. Here in Dublin the highest temperature today was 27C 😂

@mercer Ha Ha! Maybe! I did indeed update to the latest firmware and I do have the free 128GB CFE card from Panasonic. But I think I'd reach the limit of the card long before the battery would die. If you're right the battery life for ProRes C4K should be somewhere between the two figures I posted.

On Yes, this is a good middle ground for shooting outdoors, especially when it's sunny. If you can see the LCD properly (and if not you can use the EVF) you can decide to raise or lower the temperature depending on the colour of the light and/or aesthetic preference. That's because the stills use the full height of the sensor in 4:3 aspect ratio. The video clips are a 16:9 crop and so the vignetting is cropped out of the frame. It's such a small amount of vignetting that it would be easy to manually crop in post for stills. However, if you turn IBIS off for stills it might disappear altogether.

Well, I have to eat my hat 😳 😂 I did another test and ran each camera on standby using previous settings. GH5 lasted around 1h 50m and GH6 lasted 2h 17m. Now, the GH5 battery is older and has been through quite a few cycles, whereas GH6 battery is brand new. So why is everyone saying GH6 battery life is way worse? Aside from the fact that when recording it does eat battery a little bit faster, maybe it's because the GH6 battery is not fully charged until all the lights on the charger go out, and people don't realise that? BTW, in standby mode GH5 died around 5 minutes after the red flashing indicator, and GH6 was more like 10 minutes.

I would add that from my experience of using a manual focus 58mm Rokkor 1.2 on a 5D3 for photography I found that if I used the optical viewfinder to judge focus, forget it, it was out of focus. I missed it nearly every time. However, I got an almost 100% success rate by using an LCD viewfinder (remember those?). So you're magnifying the large, high resolution image on the rear LCD screen. It's actually possible to nail focus this way.

Yes, it was! GH5 ran to 1h 44m 56s! (4k 60 8bit 420) So why are people, myself included, moaning about GH6 battery life? Perhaps the GH6 battery eats battery faster when not recording? I might try a test where both are switched on but not recording and see when each one dies. That's kind of a drag, though, as I'd have to sit there and watch them... unless I had a third camera that can record forever, which I don't 😂 BTW am I right in saying that on the GH5 you can't use V-Log view assist during playback? As in, it will always be in log? If so, that's another thing I like about the GH6: you can show the client the shot you just took and not have to say "It looks all grey and washed out now, but I'll fix that in the final video, don't worry!"

Just so we're all on the page: I was testing battery life, not overheating. Of course, the figure doesn't mean anything until it's compared to something else. I'll try to run the same test on a GH5 to compare. Not in Ireland lol! Hottest day of the year so far 😂

Not more than 25C

1h 29m 17s This is in 4k 60p LongGOP with DR boost. Static scene exposed at +0, camera on tripod, IBIS off, LCD flipped out with backlight at 0 brightness.

I've just pressed record!

I can run a test for you if you tell me the parameters you're interesred in. I can run record on a full battery and see how long it lasts.

Thanks! It's a lut I made that emulates Portra 400 film as scanned on a minilab scanner (which I've posted about here before). Since negative film has quite a lot of stops above middle grey and only a few under, the highlights are relatively low contrast compared to the shadows.

Lol! In all fairness and after looking closely at the above, the GH6 does seem to have slightly finer detail and a slightly softer and more natural look when viewing at 100% in 4K. But it's subtle! I guess with GH5 V-Log a lot of people might have left the NR and sharpness settings at their default settings instead of turning them down to the minimum and this may have contributed to the idea that the GH5 is overprocessed. @deezid might chime in with his experiences as I think he now has a GH6

Sorry, ignore the fifth image above, too late to edit now.

I don't like it either! Especially when doing long interviews 😞 I definitely thought I noticed a difference between the GH5 and S series cameras. But, forgetting about noise, high ISO performance and recovering from bad exposure and concentrating only on the "organic" versus "artificial" continuum I don't see a difference between the GH5 and GH6 set at the same exposure when examining single frame. Here are some examples. Both cameras are ISO 400 V-Log and have been colour and exposure matched. GH5 is first, then GH6 in each pair: That's what I mean about the image being essentially identical for my purposes. Maybe the detail is slightly finer and less coarse in the GH6?? Of course, this comparison ignores temporal characteristics (maybe the noise pattern is nicer on the GH6?) as well as the extra dynamic range in DR boost which will differentiate it from the GH5, as well as the VLog colour being a nicer starting point on the GH6 if you're just going to use Panasonic's luts. That is a very good point!

I need more time to get a feel for it. We've just moved back from NZ to Ireland and have been preoccupied with finding a place to live. I mainly shoot video for corporate work that I do, very little for family stuff or for pleasure/creativity. Since we've returned I've done one major job but I used the GH5 as I didn't want any curve balls that the GH6 might throw my way. So I've really only pressed record on it a handful of times, doing a few tests. From the little I've shot with it, it seems like the battery life is really shit compared to the GH5 and a USB power source will be necessary. I don't use rigs, so I was thinking even just having one in the bag to charge up the last battery when it's been used. That might be enough to get me through a half day shoot. DR boost gives you an extra stop in the highlights. That's it. So if you think of your average GH5 scene and where it clips, then DR boost will give you one stop more info, at the cost of using heavy NDs in most situations. I've got as far as a 5 stop Tiffen solid ND to stick under my SLR Magic Vari ND II, but am considering the Nisi True Colour to replace the SLR Magic as it probably has less colour cast (which is not so important to me) and possibly slightly less polarisation (which is the real ass kicker with vari NDs, I think). I've satisfactorily matched the colour from the GH6 and GH5 in V-Log, and the image is thus practically identical for my purposes when not using DR boost. If you set the GH5 to minimum sharpness and noise reduction it's the same as the GH6 in terms of detail/sharpness/artificiality/organicness (except there may be differences in noise which I haven't examined in great detail), so the choice to use one or the other for me now comes down to functionality and ease of use. I do miss the easy 2x digital zoom for HD like on the GH5 as discussed previously in this thread. Having said all that, there are a few things that I really like a lot about the GH6: - Red frame when recording. This is a lifesaver. I've often lost shots from having gotten into the wrong record/stop button pressing cycle - Punch in while recording to check focus - Luminance spot meter. This is not for everyone but it's amazingly useful for me as another exposure tool - Usable AF using Panasonic lenses (anything I've checked on the Speedbooster is hopeless). Maybe once a year I need to do a static shoot of people walking down a corridor towards camera, chatting. The AF will do a better job than I can and give the 2 or 3 seconds of usable footage that I need. - Confidence that I can shoot in low light if needed. Previously I've never needed more than 3200 ISO (most shots are on a Tamron 24-70 2.8, which is f1.8 on a Metabones XL) but that was a bit noisy on the GH5 and on the GH6 with DR boost it's much cleaner. Ha ha! Here are some more negatives though: - The build quality doesn't feel as good as the GH5. - Some YouTuber was complaining about the silly mechanism on the memory card door and I agree with him. There was nothing wrong with the door on the GH5, but the GH6 is now finicky to open. - The stupid light streaking thing which I have seen, when I deliberately tried to recreate it. - The whole DR boost thing is voodoo. I've got noisy results in daylight using it, which worries me. I need more tests to suss this one out. And finally, here are some mildly shocking things I've learned when comparing to the GH5: - GH6 is slightly wider angle of view - GH6 gives slightly darker image - There is quite probably an overall colour cast imbalance. Almost certainly when using the same WB preset or when dialling in degrees Kelvin, and possibly also even when doing a custom WB on the same target. Need to test this more. It might just be the difference between my two units. Honestly, if you have a GH5 there is no huge reason to upgrade unless you definitely need the higher resolution, codec or frame rate specs. The output is going to look pretty much the same. It's not like the jump from the GH4 to the GH5, which added 10 bit and made V-Log usable. More like the GH5 to the GH5 II - a better camera to use but your client/audience won't see anything diferent.

The crushing disappointment with the XC10 was the ghastly temporal smoothing resulting in ghosting artifacts, most noticeable in log.

Sorry, I should have been more specific. When it's flipped out to the side it will tilt through 270 degrees - from facing 180 degrees toward the front and 90 degrees down. If you don't want to flip it out to the side then it will tilt up to around 30 degrees up. That's it. It's not like the XC10 which could do 90 degrees up, I think, which was cool.

The GH6 screen only tilts up a tiny bit. It doesn't even get to 45 degrees. It's like a token gesture tilt!

I meant the position of the person, not the mic. Like center of the room versus closer to a wall.

Three things come to mind: 1. Buy a bigger softbox to soften the light more without needing to move it in frame 2. Use a weighted horizontal boom to mount the light above the frame, with the vertical stand positioned just out of frame 3. Position the interviewee on the rule of thirds line with the light on the same side, but out of frame.